From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 466
Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 5:40 AM

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There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Seat swap?
From: "Mike Griese" <roscsyl_at_dml_millcomm.com>

2. Yet another John DeLorean reference
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

3. Turn Signal/hazard lights
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>

4. Re: Fuel sending unit
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

5. Re: still problems getting car to run right
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

6. Re: still problems getting car to run right
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>

7. Re: Daily drivers? - & typical problems
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

8. Re: Door light Hidden Switch
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>

9. Re: Brake Rotors
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

10. Re: Turn Signal/hazard lights
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

11. Re: Turn Signal/hazard lights
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

12. Re:British Humor ?!?
From: Ned131_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Turn Signal/hazard lights
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>

14. *sigh*... today is one of those days
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. Red Delorean
From: n a <dqauto_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:58:43 -0000
From: "Mike Griese" <roscsyl_at_dml_millcomm.com>
Subject: Re: Seat swap?

Les - The seats are "handed" by the fold forward latch and
the seatback rake adjustment.  If you swap the seats, the latches
and the adjustment knob would be on the console side of the seatback.
Probably not an issue for the latches, but the seatback would not 
adjust conveniently.

Mike

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Any reason the seats couldn't be swapped?  




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 17:10:22 -0600
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Yet another John DeLorean reference

Well, this was a bit unusual...        

I caught a few minutes of today's Oprah show (ok, feel free to laugh it up).  In any case, toward the end they had Christina Ferrare talking about her rough and public divorce from John DeLorean.  They included some old footage of her and John.....but no shots of the cars :(

--Anyway, not something you see everyday.  At least there was no negative publicity.

Jake


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 19:26:45 -0500
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>
Subject: Turn Signal/hazard lights

Here a few  days ago my right turn signal light went out. I decided to got
to the local parts store to pick up the idnetical bulb for the turn signal.
I bought two so I could replace both lights at the same time. I switched
them out last night. All went well until this morning when I drove the
delorean, neither turn signal worked. Nor did the regular fog/running
lights. I checked the filaments in the bulbs, both had broken. I thought
they were defective so I exchanged them for another pair. They did the same
thing(worked once then died). I have checked all the fuses and my turn
singal switch was replaced 2 months ago with a NOS one. Also my hazard
switch does not work, along with the interior turn signal lights or the
click that goes along with it. PLEASE HELP!

Joel




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 00:11:40 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Fuel sending unit

Ok, I've recieved a allot of emails asking me which James sent me the 
pics. It was James RG (sorry I don't know the last name). Well again, 
thanks James RG.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
> Well tonight I finally took my fuel sending unit apart, thanks to 
> James for the pics and instructions. I am happy to say I have a 
fully 
> functional unit once again. Most of the wires and parts in it seem 
to 
> be gold plated? Mine broke from the result of a week solder joint. 
> Cost to fix...$.00. I am going to be posting pics and instructions 
on 
> my website sometime this week in case anyone else is interested in 
> doing the same.
> 
> Steve




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 00:18:53 -0000
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: still problems getting car to run right

Andy

There are 2 Presure regulators, one used when the engine is cold(Control
Pressure Regulator) and the other to keep the 'ideal' fuel pressure(Primary
control pressure regulator).

Disconnect the return fuel line at the pump and put it into some container
that can safely hold 3 or 4 litres of petrol. run the fuel pump ( remove the
RPM relay and connect the white/purple wire with the brown wire ) for 1
minute. In that time you should get back 2 litres of fuel. If you have less
that 2 litres check the lines back to the fuel distributor are clear.
If they are OK then the problem could be you primary control pressure
regualtor which is in the distributor and can be taken out and cleanned and
replaced with more or less shims to increase or decrese the pressure at
which it opens, allowing fuel back to the tank. You can see a bolt on the
side of the distributor which is the regulator, take car when removing it
cos there are some small bits to loose. If you need pics i have an exploded
diagram of the Primary CPR, which i can post at he weekend.

If thats all ok the other thing to check is the control pressure regulator
mounted on the left rocker cover behind the oil filler (2 fuel lines, a
breather pipe and an electrical connector). When the engine is cold pressure
should be around 40 or 50 psi then when warm around 80psi. This is control
by the CPR. It allows the engine to run rich while cold as fuel from the
fuel plunger, in the distributor, is allowed back to the tank and as the CPR
warms up it closes off allowing less fuel into the engine. Also when the
engine is cold and you open the throttle the CPR opens more as the vacum
from the engine is diverted to the CPR, when the engine is at running temp
this vacum controls the vacum advance on the ignition distributor.

I have heard of a guy in the UK who had a blockage between the T junction
for the acumulator and the tank, his car would run for a few minutes then
splutter and die and would not start again. I think he cleared it by blowing
air, from an airline, back through the system.

Hope this is some help.

Someone on ebay is selling a fuel system which was contaminated by rust.Each
compontent is $5, anyone want a used faulty accumulator??:-)

Chris Spratt
Vin 16327 - DOC UK

PS Hope to see you all in Ireland!!

If you cannot find a
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 5:26 PM
Subject: [DML] still problems getting car to run right


> Hello All,
>
> many thanks to everyone who is helping me along!  i think i'm getting
closer,
> but there are still some brick walls.
>
> here is the scoop:
> the car will start and run, but it runs like CRAP!  i mean it is
studdering,
> shaking, completely sick sounding.  



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 20:35:53 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: still problems getting car to run right

This may sound too simple but I had a vacuum hose fall off a car (not a D) a
few years back.  Thought it would shake the wheels off before I could get it
home.  Talk about running like C...

I may be off base but it might be worth a look.  In any case, anything loose
or cracked should be addressed.

Good luck.

Ed

----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: [DML] still problems getting car to run right


> Hello All,
>
> many thanks to everyone who is helping me along!  i think i'm getting
closer,
> but there are still some brick walls.
>
> here is the scoop:
> the car will start and run, but it runs like CRAP!  i mean it is
studdering,
> shaking, completely sick sounding.  if you touch the accelerator it gets
> worse.
>
...




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 20:11:29 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Daily drivers? - & typical problems

I, too, had a fiero, and did most of the work.
It's about the same.

Heh heh. I remember my wife and I (early marriage, only the one car) going
to Costco for groceries.
She'd "lay down and put the car on" as she says; then I'd pack the groceries
in around her since the little trunk was full in a hurry. She says the same
thing about the D; but we don't go grocery shopping with it; just to/from
work, on dates, grab a kid and make a run down the highway for cookies or
coffee, etc.
I've always regretted selling that car-- until I bought the grown-up
version-- my D!




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 21:22:27 -0500
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>
Subject: Re: Door light Hidden Switch

Tom,

Joe LoRe (DMC JOE) sells a switch that installs in seconds in the relay
compartment in seconds.  It has a pigtail that lets you place the switch in
the luggage shelf behind the seats.  This switch controls all the interior
lights.  I have one and I love it!

Bill Lane
#3635

Watkins Family wrote:

> There was a post recently about installing a switch for the door lights
> that will allow you to turn off the door lights while you are at a car
> show.  



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 02:22:43 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Brake Rotors

The minimum thickness should be cast on the rotor. If the grooves are 
not too deep ie: you can just catch your fingernail on them then just 
skuff up the rotors with 80# paper on a 3" disk evenly on both rotors 
on both sides. If the pedal pulsates then you MUST cut the rotors. 
Only cut if the grooves are deep or they are out of flat and parellel. 
You do not need to cut every rotor, only the ones that need it but if 
you replace pads you must replace the pads on both sides not just one. 
You should skuff the rotors every time you change brake pads and after 
cutting on a brake lathe so as to prevent "threading" or the tendency 
for the pads to rise and fall as the rotor turns. While you are 
working on the brakes if the fluid is dark it should be flushed out 
and replaced with Castrol GTLMA dot 4. Don't forget the clutch if it's 
a 5 speed!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> I have grooves in my rear rotors.  What is the minimum thickness for 
rear
> rotors?  Anything else I need to know about turning the rotors? Any 
help
> would be appreciated.
> 
> Dennis Lowery




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 02:36:25 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Turn Signal/hazard lights

On cars that I see that are blowing bulbs one of the first things to 
check is the alternater and regulater (most of the time all in the 
same unit). If the alternater is putting out too high a voltage it can 
damage everything. Other causes include;
loose connections to the battery
bad ground connections
bad battery (the battery is like a big sink that holds the voltage 
down, without the battery in the circuit the voltage can exceed 100 
volts!)
All of this sometimes occurs after getting the car jumped. You have a 
bad battery so it goes dead so you jump it and the surge blows the 
regulater in the alternater and or some of the rectifier diodes and 
now you impress an AC voltage on the DC with the resulting RMS 
equivelent being much more than 12 volts and you can't see it when you 
look with a DC voltmeter because of the AC component. If you suspect 
the alternater then it needs to be tested by someone with an alterater 
tester or take it to an auto electrical shop to bench test.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Here a few  days ago my right turn signal light went out. I decided 
to got
> to the local parts store to pick up the idnetical bulb for the turn 
signal.
> I bought two so I could replace both lights at the same time. I 
switched
> them out last night. All went well until this morning when I drove 
the





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 18:42:24 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Turn Signal/hazard lights

Gee, that's a good one to jump into the middle of, obviously you're getting
spooked.  First, we're talking 12 volts here unless the alternator voltage is
off the peg.  Bulbs can normally  withstand well over 12 volts and not flinch.
If  the filaments are actually parting, if you actually checked them, you have
very few choices, either a bad run of bulbs (or the wrong voltage bulbs, do
they flash brightly and go out?) or some horrific vibration while the bulbs are
lit.  Fuses aren't involved if the bulbs light initially. Some part of this
puzzle is missing, best  go back and recheck, carefully.

Les

"W.D.SEARLS, JR." wrote:

> Here a few  days ago my right turn signal light went out. I decided to got
> to the local parts store to pick up the idnetical bulb for the turn signal.
> I bought two so I could replace both lights at the same time. I switched
> them out last night. All went well until this morning when I drove the
> delorean, neither turn signal worked. Nor did the regular fog/running
> lights. I checked the filaments in the bulbs, both had broken. I thought
> they were defective so I exchanged them for another pair. They did the same
> thing(worked once then died). I have checked all the fuses and my turn
> singal switch was replaced 2 months ago with a NOS one. Also my hazard
> switch does not work, along with the interior turn signal lights or the
> click that goes along with it. PLEASE HELP!
>
> Joel
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:00:33 EST
From: Ned131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:British Humor ?!?

    
    Recent news article re: "Irish jobs attracting applicants from U.S." Ends 
as 
follows: Logging on -- For jobs in Ireland www.jobsireland.com
                             For jobs in Northern Ireland 
www.BACKTOYOURFUTURE.co.uk
     Perhaps they should have thought about those jobs 20 yrs ago?

  Ned
  vin 16987



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:24:57 -0500
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>
Subject: Re: Turn Signal/hazard lights

To get my problem solved quicker maybe I should shed a little more light on
the situation. The battery was replaced 4 months ago. I got one of the
original bulbs(i put it in on the lefthand side) to work only in the on
position and not to blink. I have noticed this with the delorean and most
other cars when you have a turn bulb go out the blinker goes almost three
times as fast. The problem is the turn signals don't work at all neither do
the hazards fornt or back. I have been outside for the past our rechecking
the fuses and that is when I got the light to work. Also the last time the
grounds were cleaned was almost 10 years ago. So if it were the front ground
connection how would I fix or repair it?

Joel




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:36:57 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: *sigh*... today is one of those days

Hey all,

the news just keeps getting worse it seems! 
tonight, everywhere i turned, something new wasn't working right.  and i'm 
not just talking about my crappy running, either.  totally unrelated stuff.

1.  turn signals decided to begin working intermittently.  sometimes they 
work, sometimes they don't.  it's not a question of one side not working, 
it's both, all the way around the car, and the interior flashes and the 
clicks.  i suspect a bad wire.  i was moving stuff around in the electrical 
compartment while trying to diagnose and they magically worked again.  i 
don't know what i did, but i looked up and they were flashing.  now they 
don't work again!

2.  driver's side door lights are intermittent. something to do with the 
wiring that goes to the switches. i can figure that out myself

3.  i went to go put air in my tires and i had my heater and fan on.  i 
turned the car off and took the keys out and guess what - the fan and AC kept 
on going!!!!!  what the _at_dml_#$% ??!?!?!  i put the key back in and took it out 
again - still kept on going.  i turned the AC mode switch to off, but the fan 
was still going. so i switched the fan off and then everything turned off.  i 
have no clue where to start on this one.

4.  burned out driver's side marker light.  annoying, but easy to remedy.  
also can't seem to get the 'door ajar' light to turn off tonight.

5. now here's the worst - i've noticed a sound coming from the left front 
wheel now.  it doesn't change or go away depending on brakes.  it is a free 
rolling problem.  it kind of clicks, sounding like two big wooden marbles 
clacking, only a little duller.  it varies with the car's speed but not 
engine speed (obviously). FYI, i don't have a speedo cap or angle drive wire 
on the wheel because they are going to be replaced. i haven't even had time 
to look into this one.  too many problems are cropping up on me all of a 
sudden...

as for my car not running right - i just paid $275 for pretty much nothing.  
all they did was fix my fuel leak, put a new fuel filter on, and tell me - ' 
yup!  your car sure is sweet but we can't get it to run right either! '.  how 
encouraging.

geez - the way that everything has jumped my back like this is actually 
making me rethink if i am even able to own a car like this.  anyone else ever 
feel like that?  i mean, i love this car and i would be incredibly 
heartbroken and depressed to have to sell it ever, but this last week has 
been enough disappointments to make me wonder if it's ever going to be what 
it should be.  only a week ago i had every electrical problem sorted out, 
just a small checklist of parts to buy to make everything PERFECT, and now 
all this.  *sigh*.  well at least i have the car show i'm going to be in. 
fortunately judges only know about the looks of the car - not all the 
mechanical and electrical flaws.  i could really use the ego boost about now!

as always - the DML keeps me going.
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 19:50:18 -0800 (PST)
From: n a <dqauto_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Red Delorean

DML:

Earlier tonight my husband was still looking for the
'perfect' new baby to buy for me.  He has been
comparing all kinds of Deloreans to see which one he
would like to buy.

Anyway, in his search tonight he found a red one up at
an auction.  The advertisement was put out on 3/2/01
and they are raffling off a Delorean, Lambo Kit, and a
Viper for 10$ a ticket.  Supposed to help support
research in substance abuse somewhere in PA.


I will ask him for more info.
DQauto

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