From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 486
Date: Monday, April 02, 2001 10:22 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Oil Change
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

2. Re: Oil Change
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

3. Re: Oil Change
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

4. Re: Oil Change
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

5. Re: Oil Change
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell_at_dml_esd.uga.edu>

6. Cold engine performance problem
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>

7. first place!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

9. Brochure to hand out at car shows
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

10. Need a Quarter Panel!
From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com

11. Re: Oil Change
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

12. fuel pump access
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

13. DeLorean for sale...
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Re: do we really need a new tech site?
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: fuel pump access
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

16. More Low Fares to Ireland and DeLorean Eurofest 2001
From: rdh_at_dml_hozt.com

17. Newbie Manual
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: fuel pump access gasket
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: fuel pump access
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

20. Re: fuel pump access
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. signal bulbs and fan motor
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

22. Re: Cold engine performance problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

23. Re: Was fuel pump access Now Hard Hot Start
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

24. A new DMC owner with a problem
From: floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com

25. RE: fuel pump access
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl_at_dml_millcomm.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 19:37:01 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Change

New washer with each change or do you use them over?

Les

James Espey wrote:

> Excellent writeup! I used to do one thing differently, and I'm not sure how
> many people actually do this, but it's standard practice at De Lorean Motor
> Company. We use a copper seal washer with the drain plug. Item #11 on page
> 1-1-3 of the parts manual (part #102101).
>
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas
>
> 281/568-9573
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
>
> > From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
> > Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 12:38:15 -0500
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com,delorean_at_dml_abato.net
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Oil Change
> >
> > 4) Put a pan under the oil pan and take out the drain plug. It faces the
> > front of the car so you can't see it unless you get under it. Use the
> > adapter you bought to remove the plug. Once the oil has drained to just a
> > trickle, clean the plug off with a rag and put it back in. Snug, but don't
> > over tighten.
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 22:49:58 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Oil Change

Thanks for the compliment <blushing>....

Yup! I forgot about the crush washer. You CAN get by with reusing it a time
or two since this is a low pressure situation. I actually reused an
aluminum crush washer on another car for 150,000 miles worth of oil
changes. The local dealer claimed they didn't have 'em in stock so I just
skipped it. Never did leak.

But, to be on the safe side it is a good idea to change this.

Mark N

At 05:10 PM 4/1/01 -0500, James Espey wrote:
>Excellent writeup! I used to do one thing differently, and I'm not sure how
>many people actually do this, but it's standard practice at De Lorean Motor
>Company. We use a copper seal washer with the drain plug. Item #11 on page
>1-1-3 of the parts manual (part #102101).
>
>James Espey
>DeLorean Motor Company
>Houston, Texas 




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 04:01:25 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Oil Change

It is admirable that with your admittidly limited knowledge you want 
to maintain and learn on your car. The best advice I can give is to 
find another Delorean owner nearby who would be willing to assist. 
Short of that many High schools and vocational schools have courses or 
maybe even could use your car to teach you and the other students. A 
last alternitive would be to take it to a shop with a good reputation 
and ask if you could watch. Even for something as simple as your first 
oil change it will cost you several times what a shop will charge. 
Consider the cost of all of the tools, jacks, jackstands, wrenches, 
pans, etc. Of course good tools will last many oil changes so you 
should know before you invest if you will get some use out of them. 
Working on your own car can be a rewarding experience but have someone 
teach you some basics and safe working practices so you can continue 
to "have fun". Please dispose of used oil properly. A good starting 
point would be to aquire the Workshop manual. Even if you don't 
understand it now whoever helps you can use it to work on the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Ok...don't blast me for this....This is a whole new thing for me!
> How do you do an oil change on a DMC?  I have never done anything
> mechanically to my cars before, and I know some of the basics, like:
> 
> you get the car up on ramps
> open the drain plug (where is it on a DMC?)
> drain the oil into a pan and close the plug again
> remove the oil filter (where is it? and what tools do I need for 
> Mechanic Skills:  Zero!  :)




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 04:07:43 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Oil Change

When I bought my Purflux oil filter from Rob Grady, it had the copper 
seal included in the box (taped to the top of the filter). I'm sure 
other part vendors do the same, include the copper seal that is...:-)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., James Espey <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Excellent writeup! I used to do one thing differently, and I'm not 
sure how
> many people actually do this, but it's standard practice at De 
Lorean Motor
> Company. We use a copper seal washer with the drain plug. Item #11 
on page
> 1-1-3 of the parts manual (part #102101).
> 
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas 
> 
> 281/568-9573
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
> 
> > From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...>
> > Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_y...
> > Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 12:38:15 -0500
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_y...,delorean_at_dml_a...
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Oil Change
> > 
> > 4) Put a pan under the oil pan and take out the drain plug. It 
faces the
> > front of the car so you can't see it unless you get under it. Use 
the
> > adapter you bought to remove the plug. Once the oil has drained 
to just a
> > trickle, clean the plug off with a rag and put it back in. Snug, 
but don't
> > over tighten.




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 08:52:36 -0400
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell_at_dml_esd.uga.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil Change


I hate putting my car on ramps unless absolutely necessary so i took a
plastic 55 gal. drum and cut the bottom out of it, leaving a few inches on
the sides. I use the bottom of the drum to catch the used oil. I can slide
it under the car and drain the oil without using ramps or jacks. I drilled
a hole in the bottom of it and placed a good stopper in it which makes it
easy to transfer the used oil out of this drain pan. I used a 30 gal drum
first and made a mess b/c it will barely hold all the oil from an oil
change, best to use a 55 gallon.  



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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 21:39:37 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>
Subject: Cold engine performance problem

My D seems to start OK but I have an interesting performance problem.  When
I frist start the car it runs fine.  After a mile or so it runs very bad
until the engine warms up.  Typical examples:

1) At work I crank my car.  I drive about a mile or so and come to a stop
sign.  It runs fine out of the parking lot but when I get to the stop sign
and RPMs drop, so I can stop, it starts sputtering and may or may not stall
(even if it is out of gear and/or the clutch is depressed).  It may or may
not start easily but it will definately run rough.  When running like this,
depressing the accelerator usually does nothing until the engine temp rises
some.  Once I get it started, I usually have to pull to the side of the road
until I can convince the engine to stay running.

2) When I leave my house, I usually can get to a major road a little quicker
than my stop above.  When pulling onto the main road, it may run rough but I
usually get the RPMs up and then it runs fine the rest of the way to work.

Thanks for the assistance.

Ed Garbade (newbie)
VIN 10541

PS - My vote is for a tech site.  The sites I have visited so far have
limited info and usually fail to give detailed examples.  The usual posts
may identify what needs to be fixed but not how to do it or what the item
looks like (or where it is located).  Of course I may not be looking at the
right sites so please feel free to tell me "where to go".

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: We're in the process of seeing if there might be an opportunity to combine resources to better address this need. Dave started doing something similar to this on the DMCNews web site, but with all his responsibilities ran out of steam.]

Special thanks to DMC Joe for the assist with my first test (master and
slave for clutch)!





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 23:23:59 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: first place!

Hey all,

this weekend i took part in the Toppers Car Show here in Fargo, ND.  i 
entered my DeLorean in the class 'original, unrestored' - and i took First 
Place!  i'm sure there weren't too many other unrestored cars there, but it 
was quite an ego boost to win a trophy!

i especially enjoyed showing my car there.  for one, it was a good excuse to 
clean the car up really good and prove to myself that the car can look DAMN 
GOOD when it's all cleaned up well!  i even surprised myself by how the car 
can look.  also, i LOVED having crowds of people smiling as they peeked 
inside my car.  i enjoyed answering all the questions and they never seemed 
to get old (except the guys who thought they knew everything about the car 
only to end it by saying, 'yeah, DeLorean could have been really good if he 
could just keep his nose out of the cocaine' yeah, ok).  also, i even let a 
few people take a seat inside the car.  there were about 4 teenagers that i 
could tell REALLY wanted to get a good look at the interior, so i offered to 
let them take a seat and try the doors out.  their faces lit up and suddenly 
they started asking every question under the sun, which i proudly answered 
for them.  there were even a couple middle-aged guys who came up to me 
saying, 'i'm not sure if this is an appropriate question, but i've always 
dreamed of sitting in a DeLorean.... do you think i could just sit in there 
for a second??' and of course i let them!  a DeLorean is too much fun to be 
greedy with!!!!!

anyway, i was very happy to win an award and it was quite encouraging for me 
too keep on pluggin' with my DeLorean!

see ya!
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 03:49:22 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge

I think the first thing to determine is if it is a fuel or ignition 
problem. Get some kind of tester on the ignition circuit, primary or 
secondary and see if it stops when the engine quits. This could just 
be a problem in the ignition resistor "run" circuit. Refer to M:18:03 
in Workshop manual. Check the ignition switch, resistor, and wiring. 
You are correct in that it would be helpful to observe the fuel 
pressure at the time it stops but we can narrow down the 
possibilities. If you believe the ignition to be operating at the time 
it stops then hook up a meter or lite and watch the power to the fuel 
pump to see if it stops first. If you see the fuel pump stop then go 
through the electrical circuit that controls the pump. Since it does 
start I think you will find it to be an electrical problem that is at 
the root. Check the RPM relay, connections and wiring. A long shot is 
that when they did the fuel tank work they kinked the fuel pick-up 
hose.(You can never trust anyone's work if when they are done it is 
WORSE then when it went in and then they start "guessing" and using 
the "shotgun" approach. Diagnose in a logical sequence starting at a 
good foundation of known parts or systems. This is what separates the 
"mechanics" (read parts replacers) from an automotive technician. 
Sometimes they guess lucky but most of the time it is very expensive 
for the hapless owners when they replace a lot of good parts until 
they accidently replace the faulty part. In some cases the parts were 
never bad but in the act of replacing the part and reconnecting the 
new part the dirty connection that caused the problem is made better. 
Parts replacers take heed! Bad connections are common on a 20 year old 
car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., tucker11199_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Thanks Dave S., David T., and Bruce B for the info
> on a gauge.  
> Your right David, maybe the list could help diagnose
> this fuel problem.  Well, here goes.

> Tucker
> 16940




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 03:40:26 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: Brochure to hand out at car shows


I have converted the brochure that I created to an Adobe Acrobat format and
placed it in the Vault/Files area.  The brochure, plus a few quick download
files (so you can see what it basically looks like without waiting to
download it) are in a new folder called “tri-fold” (
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/tri-fold/).

Enjoy!

Michael C. Babb
MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA, Network+, I-Net+
mailto:Michael_at_dml_BabbTechnology.com
home: 919.303.0058
cell: 919.270.2488





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 09:34:51 -0000
From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com
Subject: Need a Quarter Panel!

Hi folks,

Just making a quick post hoping someone has a right rear quarter 
panel I could use. I have a painted D that has some minor damage 
around the wheel well, and I'm probably better off replacing the 
panel than having an inexperience bodyman tinkering with something he 
is not real familiar with. Plus, I want to avoid bondo under the 
paint in case I should ever decide to strip it.

Thanks!

Nick
nickbrom(at)aol.com
nbrommer(at)krem.com
VIN 3092, the blue one!




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 09:36:00 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Change

I always use a new washer.  I get my filters from Grady, and he includes a new
washer with the filter.  I think other vendors do the same.


Les Huckins wrote:
> 
> New washer with each change or do you use them over?
> 
> Les



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 12:40:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: fuel pump access

Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due to a
faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened the hood, popped out
the tire and...

Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no idea whether this is
normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are definitely in the
'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that the pump is accessed by
removing an access panel under the spare tire. That access panel (along
with at least one other panel, and in addition to most of the rest of the
luggage compartment appears to have been sealed with...well, sealant. A
black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type seal, not a
painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.

So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access the pump, I can crack
the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth? Small hamster?

Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step, etc. Thanks, folks. :)

Noah
#2867

"...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car and installed an
expensive stereo."
                _Good News From Outer Space_




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 06:53:34 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean for sale...

There's a little rinky dink, gravel lot, used car place down the street from 
me. I mean, this place is as small as untidy you can get. But they have a 
DeLorean for sale. As I drove by it today and saw it, I practically locked 
up my brakes to stop and check it out. Here's what I saw. Vin#16669, so I'd 
guess it's an 82. It has black interior, and in very good condition. No 
cracks on binacle, dash, or seats. It has pretty low miles and the stainless 
is nice. It has the original radio and suspension. It even has the original 
NCT's and they look like new! The car looks really clean and original. I'm 
suspecting it was the same car I saw cruising down the highway on saturday. 
They're asking $18,500. Looks like it's worth it, but I'm sure they'd take 
less. I can take a closer look at it for someone if they're seriously 
interested. It's right down the street from me in central NJ.

---Dan
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: do we really need a new tech site?

Just my two cents worth here... I put up
deloreancentral.com - has forums and some other stuff
to help the D community, but I realized something. 
The DML is an invaluable resource - infact, it's the
most important thing I have to go with my Delorean..
forget the manuals, this is the place I get the most
support from.

By pushing Deleoreancentral - it would take away (or
possibly could) some of the knowledge that flows here
already.... I dont know about everyone else, but I
dont have time to do DML and other websites everyday..
as it is now, i only check the DML messages once every
two days if I am lucky...

Why split up something that already works so well?

I think backing up DML is probably the best way we can
go.... there are lots of people with good intentions,
put up sites, and then go under, or never touch them
again... DML has a time proven record for dedicated
ops, and a big Delorean following.

I dont worry that someday the ops will say "ahh screw
it, I am not running DML anymore", as so many other
sites have done in the past.

Sure - I can do all the cool flash animations,
database searches, and cool stuff like that I want -
but the truth of the matter is, DML cuts through the
bull, and gives us what we need, a medium to
communicate and help each other out.... why pull away
from that :).

Just my two cents worth from a guy who was gonna start
a Delorean site...

Mike
Vin855
owner of http://www.deloreancentral.com - soon to just

be a profile of my own car.



--- deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/29/01 10:09:49 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, 
> DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com writes:
> 
> << What exactly is the goal of the new DMCTech
> mailing list? 
>  Is it going to be a "bin" for people to submit
> ideas for a Startup 
>  Guide for the DeLorean? Or is this going to be a
> 2nd version of the 
>  DML? I can understand creating a bulletin board to
> post ideas to. 
>  That way you can keep both an online record, and
> you can have people 
>  further elaborate on those ideas as things
> progress. Or is this going 
>  to be a tech list where people can post problems
> with thier cars, and 
>  then have technical advice offered? If so, then
> that's already here 
>  on the DML. I'm not saying anything in an attempt
> to knock anyone or 
>  their ideas. It's just that not only is the DML
> already in place, but 
>  we have many people here who just by reading the
> daily postings alone 
>  are able to "proofread" advice and repair
> procedures for inaccuracies 
>  and so forth. There are many list members here who


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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 18:36:30 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump access

You are right, that lower access panel is what you need to take off 
to get to the fuel pump.  That black sealant is just black RTV 
Sillicone.  Unscrew the access screws, and pull the panel carefully, 
opening up the seal as you go.  Once it's off, clean the remaining 
sealant off with a razor blade.  You will then see the fuel pump 
cover boot (hopefully) with two hoses coming out of the top.  Loosen 
the clamp around the outside of the boot, and pull it up a little 
bit.  You can then look down on the fuel pump.  If it has a long 
steel neck, accompanied by a flat hex nut on the top of it, then it 
is most likely the built in check valve that is bad.  I have heard it 
is a common problem with that style fuel pump.  If you see a "domed" 
nut on top of it, then you have a newer style pump, with an external 
check valve.  Hope this helps!

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Noah <sitz_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due 
to a
> faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened the hood, 
popped out
> the tire and...
> 
> Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no idea whether this 
is
> normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are definitely in the
> 'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that the pump is 
accessed by
> removing an access panel under the spare tire. That access panel 
(along
> with at least one other panel, and in addition to most of the rest 
of the
> luggage compartment appears to have been sealed with...well, 
sealant. A
> black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type seal, not a
> painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.
> 
> So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access the pump, I can 
crack
> the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth? Small hamster?
> 
> Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step, etc. Thanks, 
folks. :)
> 
> Noah
> #2867
> 
> "...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car and installed an
> expensive stereo."
>                 _Good News From Outer Space_




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 19:26:55 -0000
From: rdh_at_dml_hozt.com
Subject: More Low Fares to Ireland and DeLorean Eurofest 2001

Frommers just posted the following travel note:

We're starting to see some truly rock bottom rates for travel to the 
British Isles. The latest promotion is from esteemed Ireland expert, 
Sceptre Tours (800/221-0924 or www.sceptretours.com) which will be 
lowering prices for six night lodgings, flights on Aer Lingus and car 
rental packages to an unheard of $559/per person, based on double 
occupancy. This is for travel from now through May 15th, although 
that rate rises by just $40 until May 31. This special is flyable 
from New York, Baltimore and Boston.

Air Fares from JFK, Newark, Boston or BWI are listed as $388 RT, $478 
from Chicago, and $538 from Los Angeles for flights through May 31.

Must purchase by April 5.

DeLorean Eurofest 2001 information and registration is at:

http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/eurofest2001.html

See you at Eurofest,

Ray Haug




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:08:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Newbie Manual

I've always felt that one of the problems with so many
manuals, of any tiype, is that while they have reams
of good information, you ned to know what you are
looking for in order to find it.  In other words, the
cataloging or indexing is often by  'solutions" rather
 than by "symptoms"

I'd like to suggest that the manual have, for
instance, a section on "noises".  It would address
questions such as "what is that hissing sound coming
from behind my dash", "what is that humming sound I
get on ocassion - it seems to come from the front of
the car, and usually only on hot days". or, "what is
that clunk I hear in the rear when I turn a sharp
corner".  Thus identify the problem and then refer the
reader to the section with the more detailed set of
instructions on correction.


Dick Ryan



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:01:45 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump access gasket

In a message dated 4/2/01 5:33:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ultra_at_dml_isd.net 
writes:

<<  That black sealant is just black RTV 
 Sillicone. >>

When you put the pump access cover back on, it's easier to use the self-stick 
gasket available for that purpose from your favorite D vendor, instead of 
regooping it with sloppy silicone.  Then you won't need to go through that 
prying-off process again next time.  And there will be a next time.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 19:49:03 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump access

On my car the seals were simply torn when the panels were pulled. 
Driving even thru deep water I've never had them leak. If anything 
does leak, you could always get a thin foam seal from a hardware store 
to fit on the bottom of the panels. Would look a bit nicer.

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 15:10:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump access

Noah:

I am in the same boat... no mechanic here :)  To get
to your fuel pump you just need get through the spare
tire access plate.. you will see a think thats rubber
with two hoses coming out of it... if the plastic
cover is in tact - it can be removed... mine was
already removed and underneath it (the thing with the
two hoses coming out) you will see the fuel pump...

Mike

--- Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net> wrote:
> Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start
> problems are due to a
> faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened
> the hood, popped out
> the tire and...
> 
> Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no
> idea whether this is
> normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are
> definitely in the
> 'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that
> the pump is accessed by
> removing an access panel under the spare tire. That
> access panel (along
> with at least one other panel, and in addition to
> most of the rest of the
> luggage compartment appears to have been sealed
> with...well, sealant. A
> black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type
> seal, not a
> painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.
> 
> So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access
> the pump, I can crack
> the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth?
> Small hamster?
> 
> Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step,
> etc. Thanks, folks. :)
> 
> Noah
> #2867
> 
> "...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car
> and installed an
> expensive stereo."
>                 _Good News From Outer Space_
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:47:30 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: signal bulbs and fan motor

What are the proper front turn signal bulbs to use?  I pulled the old one's
out, they were 1154 bulbs, so I replaced them with the same number.   They
only lasted a few days and was wondering if I'm using the wrong bulbs, I've
only had the car a week so I don't know what should be in there.

Also, my interior fan motor cuts out from time to time.  It will work fine
at first but after a while will only work in short irregular bursts.  It's
not noisy or exceptionally weak.  Has anyone else experienced this problem?

I'd appreciate any help anyone may have!

Brandon
VIN 2975




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 23:46:59 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Cold engine performance problem

Before tearing into the fuel system to look for gremlins if the 
ignition wires and spark plugs are old try replacing them first. Also 
do a visual inspection of all of the vacuum hoses to see if they are 
on, correctly routed, not brittle, etc. Is the fuel fresh? If the car 
has been sitting and there is old gas in it it is less volitile and 
won't burn good until the engine gets hot. I have seen cars that sit a 
lot and the owner just keeps topping off the tank so the old stale 
fuel sludges up in the bottom. Another thing peculiar to Deloreans is 
that the plugs sit in a "well" so if any moisture gets in there it 
will cause a breakdown of the ignition wire going to the plug. Is the 
car kept outside or is it garaged? Is it worse after a rain?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> My D seems to start OK but I have an interesting performance 
problem.  When
> I frist start the car it runs fine.  After a mile or so it runs very 
bad
> until the engine warms up.  Typical examples:
> 






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 23:37:39 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Was fuel pump access Now Hard Hot Start

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Extreme caution should be taken when working on the fuel system. Ensure the system is depressurized prior to working on any fuel system component. This can be hazardous, so if you are not experienced with working on your DeLorean's fuel system you might consider leaving this to professionals.]


When I hear hard hot start the first thing to check is the 
accumulater. You are also correct that the check valve on the fuel 
pump must be there and working for the accumulater to hold up the 
system rest pressure. One way to check is to remove the return line 
from the accumulater and if it is full of fuel replace the 
accumulater. If the problem persists then replace the check valve. If 
you had a fuel pressure gauge you could be more definitive in the 
analysis. If it is the origional accumulater and if it isn't bad now 
it will probably fail soon anyway. Be careful not to twist the fuel 
lines and kink or bend them as to replace involves lifing the body off 
the frame!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Noah <sitz_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due 
to a
> expensive stereo."
>                 _Good News From Outer Space_




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 00:36:28 -0000
From: floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com
Subject: A new DMC owner with a problem

Hello all,
 
This is my first post to the DML.  I've been reading the posts for a 
while now, but have never needed to post for lack of a car.  All that 
changed recently as I am the proud new owner of vin# 1217, a 1981 D 
with black interior and auto transmission.  It has the hood lines and 
a fuel flap.  It currently has ~11600 miles on it.  Before I took 
posession of the car, it had been sitting in a garage in Tacoma, WA 
for somewhere around 16 years (!).  I had it towed to FAME Automotive 
and there it sat for three months longer getting lots of fun stuff 
done to it.  Some of these things included: new steering rack/pinion, 
rebuilt radiator, all cooling system hoses & clamps replaced, new 
front brake rotors, 4 new brake pads, master cylinder flush, full 
tune up, all fluids flushed and replaced, injectors cleaned, fuel 
accumulator replaced, new battery, new door seal, tons of door/window 
work and many others.
 
Having said that, my reason for posting: The car seems to run great 
pretty much all the time, and starts perfectly both cold and hot.  
However, the car only runs like a dream when the gas tank is full or 
near-full.  After I drive enough to burn off about 4 gallons of fuel 
(leaving 9 in the tank, I think), it stutters when accelerating and, 
if the fuel level is low enough, will die.  I have noted that this 
problem is intensified when taking right turns.  I can accelerate 
very slowly and the problem goes away; it will only stutter once or 
so and then ride normally.  When the tank gets down near 1/2 full, 
the engine will die at almost every opportunity when accelerating.  I 
have solved this problem so far by filling up often and keeping the 
tank full.  I was told by one mechanic that it sounds like the fuel 
sending unit may be bad.  Does this sound right?  Does anyone have 
any ideas?
 
Thanks,
 
Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
#1217




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 20:06:25 -0500
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl_at_dml_millcomm.com>
Subject: RE: fuel pump access

Noah - Take a small flat-blade scdrewdriver and slip it under
an edge of the cover and gently pry upward by twisting the blade.
Work your way around the cover and it will come up.  The sealant
is probably an RTV type adhesive.  Be sure to replace the sealant
when you put the cover back on or you might get water in the
trunk.  There was an article in one of the old DMC News magazines
that went over installing a Tankzilla that has pretty good pictures
showing all of this (if I do say so myself).

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Noah [mailto:sitz_at_dml_onastick.net]
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:41 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] fuel pump access


Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due to a
faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened the hood, popped out
the tire and...

Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no idea whether this is
normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are definitely in the
'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that the pump is accessed by
removing an access panel under the spare tire. That access panel (along
with at least one other panel, and in addition to most of the rest of the
luggage compartment appears to have been sealed with...well, sealant. A
black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type seal, not a
painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.

So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access the pump, I can crack
the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth? Small hamster?

Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step, etc. Thanks, folks. :)

Noah
#2867

"...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car and installed an
expensive stereo."
                _Good News From Outer Space_



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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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