From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 491
Date: Saturday, April 07, 2001 4:39 AM

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: It started easy enough...
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. sick
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. CLINTON TO VISIT BELFAST
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com

4. Fuel Injection Test Gauges
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

5. manual trans question
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>

6. Re: A new DMC owner with a problem
From: "The Floodle" <floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com>

7. Travel buddy to Ireland?
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: CLINTON TO VISIT BELFAST
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

9. Fan speed "3" is gone..
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

10. lambda question
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: A new DMC owner with a problem
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

12. Re: A new DMC owner with a problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

13. Fuel Pick Up Hose Substitute.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

14. Of Ground Effects & Two-Toned Interiors...
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>

15. Ignition Compensating Resistors/Ballast Resistors
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

16. Re: oil plug socket
From: mark_at_dml_knudsonward.com

17. Tuneup and Mirror Problems
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>

18. Trailing arm bolts
From: "Jerry Harry" <jerryHarry_at_dml_msn.com>

19. Re: Of Ground Effects & Two-Toned Interiors...
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

20. Re: Fan speed "3" is gone..
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

21. Re: lambda question
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

22. Re: It started easy enough...
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

23. Mid Atlantic DMC Saturday 14, April 2001
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 23:40:03 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: It started easy enough...

In a message dated 4/5/01 8:49:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net writes:


>   Does anyone have an alternate method for this simple repair, or am I in
> need of a new tool (pop riveter)?  Everything else in the car seems easy to
> disassemble, except this.  Help.
> 
> Thanks much,
> 
> 

Hello Hank,

you are not alone. i did this repair while i was in my doors this winter, and 
yes, you will have to drill out the rivets.  it's pretty straightforward 
after that.  you may be able to find some small bolts and nuts that will go 
where the rivets were.  i just used a pop rivet gun to put some new ones in 
there.  you are on the right track, you just have to go for it and maybe be 
creative!

as for the window switch, call the vendors (esp. PJ Grady and DMCJoe) - they 
have some used parts on hand and maybe they can help out!  btw - how did you 
manage to destroy the switch?  

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 01:18:18 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: sick

talk about sick....... humorous in a revolting kind of way.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1129700008

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 04:28:54 EDT
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: CLINTON TO VISIT BELFAST

LATEST NEWS:
Former US President Bill Jefferson Clinton is coming to Belfast on Thursday 
May 24th 2001 (No kidding).- Has he heard about Eurofest 2001?   
There's still time for you to sign up to the greatest DeLorean party ever! 
There are so many people coming from so many states and countries that this 
will look like a United Nations DeLorean summit.   

Robert Lamrock
Eurofest 2001, (24th - 27th May)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:05:08 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fuel Injection Test Gauges

Interesting,

both 12dy3617u & 12zx3617u take you to the same test set at JCWhitney.com

I changed the title of this message to aid in future archive searches.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Mueller [mailto:scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]


[MODERATORS NOTE- althought this looks like a duplicate of the prior
message, one of the SKU numbers must be in error. Call the company!]



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:55:06 -0500
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>
Subject: manual trans question

Does anyone know how much HP a manual can safely handle?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 15:57:24 -0500
From: "The Floodle" <floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com>
Subject: Re: A new DMC owner with a problem

First off, I'd like to thank everyone who helped me find he cause of my fuel supply problem.  As it turns out, the hose that connects the fuel pump to the baffle is completely missing (!), which means the fuel pump is sucking gas directly from the top of the tank.  I looked on delorean.com and the part is $91.  Does anyone else know of a replacement that does not cost as much?  Will standard fuel line work just as well?

Also, another problem popped up this week.  The passenger side door does not open from the outside.  I found that the door cannot be locked or unlocked from the outside either.  Get inside the car, though, and it opens, closes, locks and uclocks fine.  It has me puzzled.  Any ideas?

Thanks,

Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
vin#1217
_______________________________________________________
Get an Anonymous, Free Email at http://www.sub-mail.com
Visit http://www.sub-net.com for the worlds best pages!



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 10:22:28 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Travel buddy to Ireland?

I'd like to split a room with someone in Ireland. I plan on leaving on the 
evening of the 20th, or the early morning of the 21st to arrive in Dublin. 
I'll stay there until the 24th and then take the train to Belfast in the 
morning to arrive in time for the event. Then I plan on returning to Dublin 
on the 28th or 29th, and then fly back home. This is my hypothetical 
itinerary. I want to know if anyone is interested in joining me on this 
endeavor? I am flexible on this, but I need to know immediately. I need to 
book the flight by the end of the 5th of this month (tomorrow). E-mail me 
directly at Danrc30(at)hotmail.com if you're interested. Thanks.

---Dan
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 12:12:02 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Re: CLINTON TO VISIT BELFAST

I invited him.. I hope no one minds.  :)

Seriously...

The DOA web site says that the hotel we are staying at is the same hotel the
President has stayed at..  I wonder if he will be in the same hotel as us?!


ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> 
> LATEST NEWS:
> Former US President Bill Jefferson Clinton is coming to Belfast on Thursday
> May 24th 2001 (No kidding).- Has he heard about Eurofest 2001?
<SNIP>



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 12:36:26 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Fan speed "3" is gone..


Another quick question:

 My A/C fan only works on speeds of: off,1,2 and 4.  Speed three does not
work.  I've replaced the fan speed switch, still doesn't work.  I've swapped
the 3rd and 4th fan speed relays in the fuse box, and 3rd still doesn't work
(4th still works).  Where else can I look?
Sometimes you really want "3"!!

Thanks in advance,

-Hank Eskin #1619




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 13:49:35 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: lambda question

Hello list,
    I finally got my engine back together after replacing the water pump 
hoses and gaskets.  My car has always ran rich since I bought it(only 15 
miles ago)  
    It smells like gas real bad when it runs and you can see a little smoke 
coming from the exhaust.  I tried tuning the 02 mixture screw back about 1/8  
turn but then the car will begin to stall out so I have to turn it back in to 
keep it going.  It has a brand new 02 sensor.  The frequency valve runs 
constantly and never shuts off.  I think this may be part  of my problem.  It 
used to shut off or slow down after the car heated up but now it doesnt.  
someone suggested that my Lambda ECU is bad.  how can I test it?  I checked 
the Lambda relay and it is not stuck, its working fine.  any help would be 
greatly appreciated!

Thank you
David
#2496-



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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 19:43:17 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: A new DMC owner with a problem

I would not recomend using standard fuel line tubing inside the tank. 
The rubber coating that is on the outside of the tude will 
dissintergrate over time and mix in with the fuel...very bad. As high 
of a price the pick up line is, it's worth it. The tube is not a 
straight line, it's curved in a few places...like a winding snake. 
The tube from what I understand is a new type of tube, not the OEM 
ones. The Delorean vendors had them remade and they are alot more 
durable.

As for your door problem....it sounds like the link that goes to the 
outside door handle and the link that goes to your outside lock have 
either fallen off of have been disconnected. You'll have to take the 
door trim off to look inside to see what the problem is.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "The Floodle" <floodle_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> First off, I'd like to thank everyone who helped me find he cause 
of my fuel supply problem.  As it turns out, the hose that connects 
the fuel pump to the baffle is completely missing (!), which means 
the fuel pump is sucking gas directly from the top of the tank.  I 
looked on delorean.com and the part is $91.  Does anyone else know of 
a replacement that does not cost as much?  Will standard fuel line 
work just as well?
> 
> Also, another problem popped up this week.  The passenger side door 
does not open from the outside.  I found that the door cannot be 
locked or unlocked from the outside either.  Get inside the car, 
though, and it opens, closes, locks and uclocks fine.  It has me 
puzzled.  Any ideas?



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 20:25:28 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: A new DMC owner with a problem

As much as I also hate paying $90+ dollars for a hose less than 2 feet 
long I recommend that you do so. While you are at it make sure all of 
the rest of the parts are there. It also wouldn't be a bad idea if it 
hasn't been done in a while to replace the fuel filter. (Here I am 
spending more of your money!) On the doors you will only know what is 
going on once you open it up and get a look inside. (Maybe parts are 
missing inside?)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "The Floodle" <floodle_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> First off, I'd like to thank everyone who helped me find he cause of 
my fuel supply problem.  As it turns out, the hose that connects the 
fuel pump to the baffle is completely missing (!), which means the 
fuel pump is sucking gas directly from the top of the tank.  



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 20:50:20 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Fuel Pick Up Hose Substitute.

No, there is no suitable replacement for the part. When you look at 
the hose, you'll see that it is pre formed into a "P" shape with 90 
elbows at each end. Any regular hose that you find will be straight. 
And since it will need to be resistant to gasoline, it will be just 
as soft as the original. In otherwords, it will kink when you install 
it. The larger, more stiff vapor/breather hose will not work either. 
It is composed of 2 layers: Inner layer is soft, gasoline resistant 
type rubber, and the outside is just regular hard rubber. The gas 
will eat thru and seperate the rubber layers, and you'll be back to 
the same situation.

I know what you probably thinking now, and the answer is no there as 
well. Making your own 90 elbows out of brass will not work as a 
substitute. The brass can leak, and you cannot use teflon tape to 
seal it.

You might be able to get away with another type of hose temporarily, 
but I would not reccomend that you even open up the fuel tank again 
untill you have all the nessisary parts to install. For what it may 
even cost in gas to run around town, plus what you will pay for the 
substitute parts, can add up to almost a third of the cost for the 
new pickup hose. If you bite the bullet and get the new $91 hose, you 
will be much more happy with the results in the end.

-Robert
vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "The Floodle" <floodle_at_dml_s...> wrote:
<SNIP>
As it turns out, the hose that connects the fuel pump to the baffle 
is completely missing (!), which means the fuel pump is sucking gas 
directly from the top of the tank.  I looked on delorean.com and the 
part is $91.  Does anyone else know of a replacement that does not 
cost as much?  Will standard fuel line work just as well?
<SNIP>




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 15:42:00 -0500
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Of Ground Effects & Two-Toned Interiors...

Hey guys,
  I was looking at the pics on thegallerias.com and noticed 
some pretty spiffy cars.  My questions are this:  
  1.  I have heard of the "legend" of 2-tone interiors, but how
many were made?  Could a person w/ an '81 or '82 have these
made for their cars?
   I believe the two-toner also had some cool ground effects on it.
The side skirts, black,  had "DeLorean" in silver, and the front "thing" 
looked as if it were bolted onto the stock "thing"  (Note: "Thing" refers
to 
the scrub bar under the bumper, I do not know the correct name, so please

fill me in, thanks.) :  )
  2.The question is, WHO makes these effects?  They are SO tight!  

Any info will be greatly appreciated and also retained for future
reference when 
I go to do this to my car...when I get it! : )

Thanks guys,
Robert G.
deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.



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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 17:05:16 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Ignition Compensating Resistors/Ballast Resistors

The large white resistors mounted on the left firewall of the engine
compartment, next to the engine compartment light switch, get hot when the
engine is running.

Are these resistors supposed to be hot when the engine is running?

Just curious.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 23:42:48 -0000
From: mark_at_dml_knudsonward.com
Subject: Re: oil plug socket

To: Erik and the List.

     The oil drain plug removal tool info has already been covered in 
previous posts on the DML.  I just happened to come across them while 
attempting to read every post.  It's going to take a while as I am 
just over half way.
     The following messages cover how to make or who to buy from the 
oil drain plug removal tool:  1245, 1260, 5009, 5773, 5782, 5809, 
5812, 5831, 6015.
     I think the DMCTech collaboration of technical help and know how 
is a great idea.  It will put a stop to unnecessary repetition of 
technical advice.
     I'm the guy who is having my DeLorean's PRV V6 heads, 
distributor (with a different cap), intake, and crankcase cover mated 
to the Eagle Premier 3.0 Litre V6 block.  Message #15299.
     My 'D' is STILL in the shop.  So I have no personal experience 
with having to remove the oil drain plug, yet.  I hope to have 
the 'D' out soon to let everyone know just what was done and the 
costs involved.

Mark R. Vanyo
VIN # 02261
Lic OUTATYM

P.S.  Message # 6771 makes some good quick reading for any newbie's 
looking to buy their first (DeLorean) classic car.





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 20:19:20 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>
Subject: Tuneup and Mirror Problems

This weekend I am planning on doing a tuneup to my D.  In addition, the
driver's side mirror isn't working.

Any pointers or tech sites on these issues?  Assume I need to take the door
panel off to access the mirror switch and motor.

Ed
10541




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 19:32:02 -0500
From: "Jerry Harry" <jerryHarry_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Trailing arm bolts

Can someone tell me what these are called in the parts book, page and number?
I find all kinds of things that I think would need inspection from time to time but none are called trailing arm bolts.
Thanks for the education.
Jerry  
Vin# 4890 



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 17:37:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Of Ground Effects & Two-Toned Interiors...

And who makes/stocks the blackouts for the headlights?

-Christian

On Fri, 6 Apr 2001, Robert Greenhaw wrote:

> Hey guys,
>   I was looking at the pics on thegallerias.com and noticed
> some pretty spiffy cars.  My questions are this:



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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 00:46:02 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Fan speed "3" is gone..

Obviously the parts you replaced were good because you still have the 
same problem. Save the fan switch and now you also know the 3 and 4 
speed relays are alright. It is a simple circuit so I can only 
conclude either a break in the wire (ky) from the 3 speed relay or 
more likely a connector has backed out of the relay panel where you 
insert the relays. Pull relay 3 speed and with a light examine the 
electrical connectors to see if they are pushed and locked all of the 
way up. If needed pull 4 speed relay to compare. There is a tiny tab 
that locks the connecters into the plastic, you may have to bend it 
SLIGHTLY so that the connecter is retained in the block when you 
reinsert the relay. If you have the workshop manual refer to M:18:19. 
It is a little ambiguous so follow relay #12. Use standard electrical 
troubleshooting techniques to isolate the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> Another quick question:
> 
>  My A/C fan only works on speeds of: off,1,2 and 4.  Speed three 
does not
> work.  I've replaced the fan speed switch, still doesn't work.  I've 
swapped
> the 3rd and 4th fan speed relays in the fuse box, and 3rd still 
doesn't work
> (4th still works).  Where else can I look?
> Sometimes you really want "3"!!
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> -Hank Eskin #1619




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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 00:57:48 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: lambda question

When it warms up pull the plug on the cold start valve and see if that 
helps. Make sure that the three brass adjusting screws are LIGHTLY 
seated. Make sure that at idle the idle micro is working,(test with a 
meter). Try never to twiddle the mixture screw, it is very sensitive 
and can only be properly set with an analyzer. Check all of the vacuum 
hoses for proper routing and brittleness. If they get hard they crack 
and leak and it is very hard to find. Make sure that you have a good 
seal on the plug over the mixture screw, an air leak there will screw 
up the air-fuel ratio. Do all of the simple stuff before you mess with 
the lambda circuit, if it is buzzing it is probably OK.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello list,
>     I finally got my engine back together after replacing the water 
pump 
> hoses and gaskets.  My car has always ran rich since I bought 
it(only 15 
> miles ago)  
>     It smells like gas real bad when it runs and you can see a 
little smoke 
> coming from the exhaust.  I tried tuning the 02 mixture screw back 
about 1/8  





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 21:07:41 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: It started easy enough...

> go for it and maybe be creative!

Man, "be creative" was an understatement!  I peeled back the vinyl trim,
drilled out three rivets, and glued the trim back in place.  Only then did I
realize that the existing holes are now larger than the new 1/8" rivets, and
the next rivet size up was too big.  So I had to peel back (glue had not set
yet) the vinyl trim and the foam backing, and install small sheet metal
supports behind the holes (drilled holes and riveted those in), so the
rivets would actually hold tight.   I could have used washers, I know, but
didn't have any good ones around. Besides, this is a much more solid base in
which to rivet the vent frame.  While riveting the third rivet, it broke the
nail part of the rivet, and I could not get it to break off. So I had to
file off and drill out that rivet and start all over.  Now I can glue
everything back together again.  In attaching the frame, it doesn't quite
fit as square as the original, and getting that one large upper rivet in
place was a hassle (due to the vinyl on the edge getting in the way, ugh),
but I finally got it all done.  The re-install into the door happens
tomorrow, and I sure hope everything lines up.

Thanks for your help.

-Hank




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 22:52:06 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Mid Atlantic DMC Saturday 14, April 2001



Are there any owners driving NORTH to the door adjustment and technical 
social with Rob Grady? There are 4 DMC's traveling together from Washington, 
DC, maybe 5 if I can clear my schedule. Anyone here taking their car? 
    
Mike



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