From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 499
Date: Friday, April 13, 2001 4:55 AM

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Carpet Cleaning
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>

2. Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

3. Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Steering wheel removal
From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com

6. Advice on D I'm looking into
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Replacing trailing arm bolts
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com

8. RE: Replacing trailing arm bolts
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

9. 170mph Speedo
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

10. British Car Day South
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

11. Re: Advice on D I'm looking into
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

12. quick question
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

14. Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: quick question
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

16. Re: quick question
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Advice on D I'm looking into
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

18. Re: Replacing trailing arm bolts
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

19. Re: Advice on D I'm looking into
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com

20. John Delorean
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

21. AArons D quest
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

22. John Z Delorean on NYC Radio Show this morning!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

23. Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 23:30:14 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>
Subject: Carpet Cleaning

Any idea how to get brake fluid out of carpet?

BTW, this is an easy way (not desireable) to ID a leaky master cylinder on a
manual transmission.  Possibly something for the Tech site?

Ed
10541




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 00:54:46 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)




    The burgundy interior DeLorean is on the cover and featured in an article 
by the original owner in the summer 1990, Issue 7 number 2 DeLorean World. 
    In addition, this burgundy interior car had a custom trailer fabricated 
to store additional luggage. 

Sincerely,
Mike Pack
DOA 4743
VIN 3713



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 06:01:38 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?

Group, The Haynes book on the K Bosch system say's:quote. The line 
pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure in the system 
while the enging is running, returning excess fuel to the tank to 
prevent overpressure. In addition, the regulator has a built in rest 
pressure valve and a shut off valve, which function when the engine 
has been shut off to maintain a lower (approximately 35 psi) pressure 
in the system to prevent vapor lock and to keep the fuel in the 
system from draining back into the tank, making starting more 
difficult.End quote. Andy, What is the part number on the fuel pump. 
If it is a Bosch, I may be able to tell if it's right or wrong for 
the car. Also, I have new rebuilt CPR on my site, I will send it 
overnight to try. I also will post on the web site under Talk and 
View the K Bosch fuel injected part I quoted in the morning when I 
get to work.
I hope this helps
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



> 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 02:31:48 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?

In a message dated 4/11/01 10:12:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net writes:


> Refer to parts manual 2-1-0 part # 14 or 102359 fuel pipe. Follow to 
> fuel distributer and remove at the fuel distributer. Hook a temporary 
> pipe onto the fuel distributer and place the other end in a pail to 
> catch the fuel. Run the fuel pump (jump the rpm relay) and read the 
> PRIMARY PRESSURE. (Refer to workshop manual D:02:02 for correct 
> procedure). It is possible for a problem in the control pressure 
> circuit to cause primary pressure problems like an eroded restrictor 
> but I don't think that is the trouble. Until you can get your Primary 
> pressure under control don't worry about control pressures. Although 
> you ran a flow test to the tank I think you have a problem with the 
> return hose and even though you got good flow at the tank it had to 
> get past a restriction that is causing high pressures at the fuel 
> distributer. By disconnecting the return at the fuel distributer you 
> will be "bypassing" any restriction and allowing the fuel to dump 
> letting the primary pressure regulater work. Since you are deep in the 
> fuel system I recommend you go to www.motorbooks.com and order book # 
> 112910A for $29.95 Bosch Fuel Injection Handbook and Engine 
> Management. It gives a very in depth description of the operation of 
> the K-Jetronic fuel system and troubleshooting procedures. Be careful 
> in getting advice from people not specific to the Delorean. There are 
> slight changes in the fuel systems from car to car and what may be 
> valid for a Volvo for instance may not be true in a Delorean. The 
> Primary pressure regulater sets system pressure so if it is too high 
> it is only because it is not sending excess fuel back to the fuel tank 
> for whatever the reason. A failed cpr should not increase the system 
> pressure although it can reduce it.
> David Teitelbaum
> 

OK,

i will be sure to try your above test tomorrow David.  
here's some new info:
today i put a different DMC fuel pump in my tank.  mine has been making 
strange noises, so i thought i'd put a different one in just to see if i 
could eliminate any doubts.  well now my control pressure is around 3.0 bar, 
and the system pressure will slowly increase to about 4 bar, then it suddenly 
drops down to about 3 bar and sits around there.  every time i jumped the 
pump it did this.  it would slowly rise up to 4 bar, and right about there, 
in the same place every time, the needle would violently drop to about 3 bar, 
and that's where it would dwell at.  very interesting.  my old pump would go 
to 3.5 for control pressure and go all the way up to 6 or 7 for primary, and 
it jumped around in that area.  

got any explanations for that, David? or anyone?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 10:07:09 -0000
From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com
Subject: Steering wheel removal

MODERATOR'S NOTE: THe subject of this posting was changed to more accurately reflect the content]

If you are having trounle removing the steering wheel go to my web 
page www.dmc12.co.uk and look under the quick fixes section and then 
steering wheel removal.

This is how I removed my steering wheel hope it helps!

let me know how you get on


Regards

James RG
Colchester




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 04:51:52 -0000
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Advice on D I'm looking into



  Hello,

   I am looking into a Delorean I saw listed online.  I took a look at it 
today and it seemed to be a really good deal.  I wanted to know the general 
idea from you owners to see if I'm making the right choice by loooking into 
this particular one.

  It's an '81 with 63,000 miles and it's an automatic.  Body is in great 
condition with only a ding or two and clean as all hell.  The binnacle is 
cracked a bit on top.  Also the torsion bars need replacing, which the guy 
says will cost only $50 a pair.  I tried the windows and they work and are 
aligned and so are the doors.  No problems 'cept they won't stay up cause of 
those bars.

  I took a drive with the guy and the car started right up and ran smooth.  
He's the original owner with all the paperwork and it just passed NYS 
inspection two days ago.  Original everything in the car and all updates 
except the tires and the windsheild which was replaced by PJ Grady.  The 
asking price is $16,500.

  Opinions?  I'm trying my best to know as much as possible, but I know you 
guys can help.  Anything I should look out for?  Thanks alot guys.

  -Aaron C.


________________________________________________________

Have you moved into the Net City yet?  Come see your new favorite 
neighborhood!

Your Net City.Com

http://www.yournetcity.com


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 08:56:02 -0500
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com
Subject: Replacing trailing arm bolts

This weekend I will be replacing both trailing arm bolts and bushings.  I
was wondering if anyone had any tips for this install to make it easier or
things to look out for.  I'm planning on taking some pics of the replacement
to add to the tech section.  If anyone has any tips or advise to make this
as easy as possible, I would GREATLY appreciate it! :-)


Thanks,


Duke
'81 DMC w/ Vortec 4.3




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:54:32 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: RE: Replacing trailing arm bolts

Subject: [DML] Replacing trailing arm bolts

I recommend greasing the trailing arm bolt, the part of the bolt that goes
into the trailing arm.  I had a bolt rust up so bad to the trailing arm that
I never did get it out.  When this happens, you can tighten up the bolt but
it is not tight all the way through to the other end of the bolt.

For those who check their torque, make sure the bolt rotates in the trailing
arm.

Nick Kemp




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:56:27 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: 170mph Speedo

Thought that list might want to know that Marty advised me that the 140mph
from Mid-State Delorean Club is no long available.

I have now had the oppertunity to take a look at the 170mph speedo and it
does look completly factory when installed. I was so impressed that I have
sent my speedo to Rob Grady for this update. The cost is $130.00

Robert Starling
Vin#05252




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:00:21 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: British Car Day South

Just need two more cars to join us. You most be preregister by April 22,
2001.

The information about this event is on my site
http://stainlesssteel.freeyellow.com/index.html

Please let me know if you are planning on attending.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 08:12:43 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Advice on D I'm looking into

<<Also the torsion bars need replacing, which the guy
> says will cost only $50 a pair.  I tried the windows and they work and are
> aligned and so are the doors.  No problems 'cept they won't stay up cause
of
> those bars.
><snip>


Aaron,

Are you sure he means the torsion bars?  No way those are $50 a piece.  The
doors might just need new gas struts.  If you do need to mess with the
torsion bars, it's best to leave it up to some one with experience.

Jake




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:16:32 -0000
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: quick question



  The part that needs replacing is the bar that holds up the door.  Is this 
the torsion bar?  Am I using the wrong wording?  If it's not it, then what 
is this part called and what is a torsion bar.


  Thanks.

  -Aaron C.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:17:42 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)

Senator Pack:
    All great minds run in the same gutter.....er Channel!   I remembered
that same burgundy interior you mention and had my DeLorean World mags out
hunting for the article....it is quite interesting in that Lane and Darlene
Hoggson of Lynwood,
WA purchased a new Delorean, then proceeded to remodel it suit their tastes.
For those who do not have access to the DWorld mags, they had it upholstered
in the same burgundy leather that John DeLorean chose as an option and even
from the same company.   Unlike OUR DeLoreans which have ONLY the seating
surfaces with Real leather, they had the entire interior of real
leather....it took 4 1/2 hides!!   Also the headliner and carpeting are of
matching burgundy.  Beautiful.  This car was for a sale a while back.  Also
as mentioned, they built a matching trailer utilizing mostly the front end
of a DeLorean.  Beautiful combo.   The trailer is now owned by Pres of the
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club, Arnie Brandon.
    One other thing I would like to mention is a two page color ad in this
same magazine.   DeLorean Specialties advertises a lot of things including a
"Carpathian Burlwood Trim Set.   This is for the dash strips, upper and
lower console covers   including AC vent surround and radio face covers and
steering wheel spokes....georgeous to MY way of thinking.  I wonder if
anyone has this and what happened to the company?
Murray Fisher
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
 Washington State USA




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:35:30 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?

In a message dated 4/12/01 10:05:13 AM Central Daylight Time, dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> Group, The Haynes book on the K Bosch system say's:quote. The line 
> pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure in the system 
> while the enging is running, returning excess fuel to the tank to 
> prevent overpressure. In addition, the regulator has a built in rest 
> pressure valve and a shut off valve, which function when the engine 
> has been shut off to maintain a lower (approximately 35 psi) pressure 
> in the system to prevent vapor lock and to keep the fuel in the 
> system from draining back into the tank, making starting more 
> difficult.End quote. Andy, What is the part number on the fuel pump. 
> If it is a Bosch, I may be able to tell if it's right or wrong for 
> the car. Also, I have new rebuilt CPR on my site, I will send it 
> overnight to try. I also will post on the web site under Talk and 
> View the K Bosch fuel injected part I quoted in the morning when I 
> get to work.
> I hope this helps
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 

Hello John and everyone else who is trying to help me out,

MY fuel pump which makes bad noises, is a Bosch 954. this is the 'correct', 
newer one, right? there isn't a long sleeve on the top of it.  just a hole 
and you need to put on a LONG hollow bolt, three fittings, banjo, and a dome 
nut.  the 'older' one has a long sleeve on top of it without a dome nut.  
this older one is the one that i just put on the car yesterday.  

with my dome nut one - control pressure is 3.5 bar.  primary is 6-7 bar, and 
it fluctuates everytime the pump makes a straining, frequency-changing noise, 
about twice per second. 

with the NON dome nut (the one i just put on) - control pressure is about 3 
bar, primary pressure slowly creeps up to 4 bar, then it violently drops down 
to 3 bar or so, and it stays there, not wavering.  it makes no bad noises.

during both of these tests, these reading are for when the engine is NOT 
turned on, just when jumping the RPM relay.  however, with my dome nut pump, 
i get the same reading weather i'm trying to start the engine or not.  i have 
not tested the NON dome nut one yet in this way.

as for the CPR, John - i have already secured one for this weekend from 
another Fargo DMC owner, but i greatly appreciate your offer to help.  i'll 
let you know privately if you can be of any assistance.  thanks!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 19:23:22 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: quick question

The doors are held open by a combination of a torsion bar and a gas 
strut. If the torsion bar isn't broken or missing then it doesn't need 
to be replaced. What I think you mean needs replacing is the strut. It 
is a black cylinder that attaches to the rear of the door. I think 
they run in the neighborhood of $70 each. You may also need an 
adjustment of the torsion bars but first install the new struts. A 
quick test for the need for new struts, prop open the door, remove the 
strut, slowly lower door to close. It should remain open 2-6 inches 
measured from lip of door to sill. If it does stay open 2-6 inches go 
ahead and order the struts and you won't even need an adjustment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
>   The part that needs replacing is the bar that holds up the door.  
Is this 
> the torsion bar?  Am I using the wrong wording?  If it's not it, 
then what 
> is this part called and what is a torsion bar.
> 
> 
>   Thanks.
> 
>   -Aaron C.
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 15:25:50 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: quick question

In a message dated 4/12/01 1:46:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


>  The part that needs replacing is the bar that holds up the door.  Is this 
> the torsion bar?  Am I using the wrong wording?  If it's not it, then what 
> 

hello Aaron,

there are two parts which hold up the door.  the first is a very familiar 
looking gas strut. these are located on the rear end of the door and extend 
as the door goes up.  these help bring the door to it's maximum height, and 
in some cases, also cushion the ride up.  the main part to the doors is the 
torsion bar.  this is the long silver metal piece that runs the length of the 
door in the roof.  this bar is actually twisted upon installation.  when you 
close the door, you are twisting this bar.  when you unlatch the door, the 
bar untwists and helps the door fight gravity.  about half way up, the gas 
struts take over and take the door all the way up.

make sense now?  oh yeah - do not attempt to remove the torsion bar.  this 
can result in grave injury if you are not experience and do not have the 
proper tools.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 19:33:30 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Advice on D I'm looking into

Pull the trans dipstick and look at the condition of the fluid. Check 
the brake fluid also it shouldn't be black. If it is you will soon 
need a brake job. Look at the motor for signs of ever being 
overheated. Look at the fuse and relay panel for anything melted. 
Check the frame for rust, especially around the front crumple zone and 
notor mounts. It should shift smoothly and not pull to either side 
when driving or braking. The price is about right but expect to spend 
money on the car improving and replacing parts after all it is a 20 
year old car. The door struts are the least of your worries. If you 
buy it bring it to the door adjustment social 4/21. Rob will be there 
and can give the car a "once over" and you can buy the struts, 
sometimes we get a deal and if you need an adjustment members will be 
there with tools to do it if you join. Since you are in NY you might 
not be too far, the event is in south Jersey.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
>   Hello,
> 
>    I am looking into a Delorean I saw listed online.  I took a look 
at it 
> today and it seemed to be a really good deal.  I wanted to know the 
general 
> idea from you owners to see if I'm making the right choice by 
loooking into 
> this particular one.
> 
>   It's an '81 with 63,000 miles and it's an automatic.  Body is in 
great 
> condition with only a ding or two and clean as all hell.  The 
binnacle is 
> cracked a bit on top.  Also the torsion bars need replacing, which 
the guy 
> says will cost only $50 a pair.  I tried the windows and they work 
and are 
> aligned and so are the doors.  No problems 'cept they won't stay up 
cause of 
> those bars.
> 
>   I took a drive with the guy and the car started right up and ran 
smooth.  
> He's the original owner with all the paperwork and it just passed 
NYS 
> inspection two days ago.  Original everything in the car and all 
updates 
> except the tires and the windsheild which was replaced by PJ Grady. 
 The 
> asking price is $16,500.
> 
>   Opinions?  I'm trying my best to know as much as possible, but I 
know you 
> guys can help.  Anything I should look out for?  Thanks alot guys.
> 
>   -Aaron C.
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________
> 
> Have you moved into the Net City yet?  Come see your new favorite 
> neighborhood!
> 
> Your Net City.Com
> 
> http://www.yournetcity.com
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 19:37:40 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Replacing trailing arm bolts

Count the washers and replace EXACTLY.If the bolts are bent you have 
to slice them up to remove. Torque the bolts with weight on the 
suspension otherwise you are preloading the bushings. If automatic 
loosen left side trailing arm at rear carrier but don't disconnect 
brake line.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., at88mph_at_dml_m... wrote:
> This weekend I will be replacing both trailing arm bolts and 
bushings.  I
> was wondering if anyone had any tips for this install to make it 
easier or
> things to look out for.  I'm planning on taking some pics of the 
replacement
> to add to the tech section.  If anyone has any tips or advise to 
make this
> as easy as possible, I would GREATLY appreciate it! :-)
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Duke
> '81 DMC w/ Vortec 4.3




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 20:02:12 -0000
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Advice on D I'm looking into

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
>   It seems like entirly too much money for a car that has 63,000 
miles on it.  It would seem that you could purchase one with a lot 
less miles for the same amount.  

The most important aspect has to be the modifications and the needs 
of the car that you are looking at.  Many low milage cars need a lot 
of work to make them drivers.  Many high milage cars already have 
this work done and would end up being less expense in the long run.  

Have yours inspected by someone who knows the cars and you will be a 
lot happier.  I know of a car in San Diego with only 17K on it, in 
perfect shape and around $16.5K.

Scot 
6452




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 20:23:43 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: John Delorean

Hey I just wanted to tell everyone that John Delorean called into 
WPLJ (NY Radio station) as part of a contest that the radio station 
was running. It was a contest to see what listener could get a famous 
person to call in. The link for it is 

http://www.plj.com/pages/41288.asp

Scroll down to where it says "Big Names that have called in" and go 
to April 12,2001.

I heard that he started talking about the DMC-12 and also his 
upcoming new car with the radio DJ's on the air. Anyone catch this?

Steve




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 13:36:13 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: AArons D quest

Best advice, other than that already given: try a stick shift before you
buy.  E-mail me privately if you want to know why.

Les




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:34:14 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: John Z Delorean on NYC Radio Show this morning!

Hi Everyone.

A Local NY City radio show on 95.5 WPLJ has a contest running this week.  If
you (any average Joe) can get a celebrity to call the morning show, they
will put you in a contest to win a brand new Mustang.  At the end of this
week, they will decided who the biggest celebrity is, and the person who got
them to call gets the car, ad $5,000 goes to the celebrities favorite
auction.

Anyway...I was at work already when this happened, but a co-worker told me
that John Delorean called in!  His son asked him to.  The interview was
about 10 minutes in length, and my co-worker told me that he mentioned the
cars history, and that he is still working on another car.  His son teaches
rock climbing, and needs a car badly, so he asked his dad to call in.




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:47:36 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads

The FAQ area on DMCNEWS says you can use a "scotch Brite" pad to clean and
remove minor scratches from your Delorean.  I have some areas that I would
like to fix up, and I went out and got some ACTUAL Scotch Brite Pads.  I
have not used it yet, and I was wondering if I had the right product.
If you go to this link: http://www.abato.net/sbpad.jpg  you can see a
picture of what I bought.  There is a floppy disk in picture for size
comparison.
They are not steel (at least I do not think so...they are green in color)
and appear to be safe to use.  Can someone please comment on this?

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680




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