From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 500
Date: Friday, April 13, 2001 9:24 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Advice on D I'm looking into
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

2. Re: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads
From: Lee <immerse_at_dml_pacbell.net>

3. Transporting/Towing a DeLorean (was Re: Shipping a Delorean?)
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

4. RE: shipping cars
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

5. RE: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

6. Invisible Audio Upgrade Tech
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

7. help! no power to fuse # 7
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. idle problem
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

9. final call on some parts
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

10. The Invisible Audio Upgrade
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>

11. Re: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads
From: turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com

12. Radio Reception with Windshield Antenna
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

13. Re: idle problem
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Bay Area Bull*
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

15. RE: Bay Area Bull*
From: "Jeff Angwin" <jeff_at_dml_coware.com>

16. Re: Bay Area Bull*
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

17. RE: Radio Reception with Windshield Antenna
From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>

18. Re: Bay Area Bull*
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: idle problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: help! no power to fuse # 7
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

21. Lancia on eBay
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

22. Re: help! no power to fuse # 7/ make a jumper switch
From: Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Bay Area Bull*
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

24. Help! Idle problems - Microswitch - Loose wires!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Door Seals
From: DBJCFAM_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:36:23 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Advice on D I'm looking into

Get the VIN# and call Rob Grady...see if he has records on the car.


-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron C. [mailto:slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 12:52 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Advice on D I'm looking into




  Hello,

   I am looking into a Delorean I saw listed online.  I took a look at it
today and it seemed to be a really good deal.  I wanted to know the general
idea from you owners to see if I'm making the right choice by loooking into
this particular one.

  It's an '81 with 63,000 miles and it's an automatic.  Body is in great
condition with only a ding or two and clean as all hell.  The binnacle is
cracked a bit on top.  Also the torsion bars need replacing, which the guy
says will cost only $50 a pair.  I tried the windows and they work and are
aligned and so are the doors.  No problems 'cept they won't stay up cause of
those bars.

  I took a drive with the guy and the car started right up and ran smooth.
He's the original owner with all the paperwork and it just passed NYS
inspection two days ago.  Original everything in the car and all updates
except the tires and the windsheild which was replaced by PJ Grady.  The
asking price is $16,500.

  Opinions?  I'm trying my best to know as much as possible, but I know you
guys can help.  Anything I should look out for?  Thanks alot guys.

  -Aaron C.


________________________________________________________

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neighborhood!

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:39:42 -0700
From: Lee <immerse_at_dml_pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads

Kevin Abato wrote:

> The FAQ area on DMCNEWS says you can use a "scotch Brite" pad to clean and
> remove minor scratches from your Delorean.

snip....
....snip

Kevin,

The correct "Scotch Brite" to use is #7446 "Blending hand pad

Product ID #61-5001-2322-1 The pads are 6 inches X 9 inches

the correct way to work out scratches or stains is to get a chunk of wood 5X8
inches
and use it as a baxking for the scotch brite pad. To "re-Brush" any given
area, first spray the area with "3M Stainless Steel Cleaner & Polish" there is
only one kind so you won't get the wrong one. next lay the scotch brite down
grain, place the wood block on top of the pad and pressing down drage the pad
threw the desired area and up grain some amount. Now lift the pad off the
surface and go back to the starting point and repeate. Follow the original
grain. The surface of the stainless will darken as you work. from time to time
wipe the area clean with a clean soft cloth. do not at any time rub or wipe
cross grain. Once you start you will see the unwanted scratches start to fade,
just keep working the area until it matches the rest of the panel. You may
want to do the whole panel, which if done correctly will take about 4 hours.

Lee







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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:44:34 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Transporting/Towing a DeLorean (was Re: Shipping a Delorean?)

Not sure how it was shipped, but it is important to remember that most of
these latches hold the louver down marginally, at best. Therefore, it is a
good idea never to tow a DeLorean (loaded on a truck or otherwise)
backwards. The wind can catch the louver and break it off backwards, often
damaging the roof/doors in the process. If you must tow or transport the
DeLorean backwards, remember to tie down the louver securely.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com

> From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_bigfoot.com>
> Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:56:24 -0400
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [DML] Shipping a Delorean?
> 
> Just make sure you get a good shipper.  The shipper I used decided I didn't
> need the louvers and broke the engine cover in 3 places.  The louvers also
> bent the roof  (2 places), hood, and passanger windshield coulmn upon
> exiting the vehicle.  The shipper claims it is not their responsibility
> since my equipment (engine cover latch) failed.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:29:54 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: shipping cars

I've shipped several cross country and one to Europe.  As I recall the cross
country price was around $1100, but that was some 11 years ago.  I don't
have my records from then so can't remember who I used, but found the
shippers by checking both Hemmings Motor News and local Yellow Pages.  But
the bigger issue is, why look for a car so far away?  There are lots for
sale here in Washington, and you can go look at them and be sure of what you
are getting.  Try checking with Arnie Brandon at arnie_at_dml_pndc.org - he usually
has a good handle on cars available and their history.

-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 00:40:56 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads

Those look perfect!  There are actually several different kinds of
Scotch-Brite pads available.  I personally like the ones with the sponge on
the other side (do buffing with one side, and then clean and check your work
with the other).

It is also possible to find different "grains" of pads, for varying degrees
of "scratching" that you want to do.  Check your local Lowes or Home Depot
for all kinds of Scotch-Brite pads.

Michael C. Babb
MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA, Network+, I-Net+
mailto:Michael_at_dml_BabbTechnology.com
home: 919.303.0058
cell: 919.270.2488

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean_at_dml_abato.net]
: http://www.abato.net/sbpad.jpg  you can see a
picture of what I bought.  There is a floppy disk in picture for size
comparison.
They are not steel (at least I do not think so...they are green in color)
and appear to be safe to use.  Can someone please comment on this?





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 23:26:10 -0500
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Invisible Audio Upgrade Tech

Check out  the tech submission by Peter Lucas of a fantastic invisible
upgrade to the DMC audio system.

See at http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/invisibleaudio.htm

Dave




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 01:03:50 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: help! no power to fuse # 7

Hey all,

today as i was jumping the RPM relay for about the 100th time while 
diagnosing my fuel problem, something shorted out (i think) and i can't get 
it to jump anymore.  the RPM relay lost power.  i know this because i'm using 
a test light. i followed the wiring diagram in the shop manual to the main 
fuel relay.  no power there either.  from there i went to the fuse block, the 
next stop on the chart.  no power to the fuse, and the fuse isn't blown.  i 
know the fuse block has power because i tested the interior lights fuse slot 
and the light turned on on my test light.  from there the diagram goes to a 
big spiral thing without any numbers or labels on it, just a ton of brown 
wires going into it and coming back out like it's some sort of power 
junction.  what is this thing?  and more importantly, where is it?

and most importantly, anyone know where to look next?  i gotta get this 
problem straightened out before i can continue working on my fuel problem.  

one thing turns into another....
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 13:09:02 +0200
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: idle problem

Hi group,

Following problem occurs:
My engine idles between 500 an 1000 rpm when warm, idle speed
microswitch works. When I press the full throttle enrichment microswitch
the frequency valve changes noise and the engine idles at 1000 rpm. Any
suggestions?  

Klaus Steiner
#05980 Germany
www.steinerklaus.de



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:44:47 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: final call on some parts

I have a couple used parts that may be sent to the junk yard if 
nobody takes them.  
1 rear bumper foam (some cracks)
1 front pontoon (cut off at the windshield)
1 left rear pontoon (fender area)
1 right rear pontoon (fender area)
1 burned T panel (warped)
Pair of trailing arms (has rust hole)
1 rear fascia (burned on top and has some rips)
1 front fascia (has rips)

I thought I would offer these to the group just in case someone wants 
them.  I would hate to see these go to the junk yard when someone out 
there might need them.  I don't want to ship these things anywhere, 
so please only reply if you are willing to pick them up.  I live in 
Holland, MI.  About 2  1/2 hrs north of Chicago.....3 hrs west of 
Detroit.
thanks
Erik
04512

Ps...my license plate is changing from EGGS D.....to LVTHDRM (Live 
the Dream)




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 09:44:20 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>
Subject: The Invisible Audio Upgrade

I wrote a little piece on how I upgraded my D's sound system without 
in any way changing its outward appearance.   Check it out in the 
tech section:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/invisibleaudio.htm

--Pete Lucas
    VIN #06703



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 13:48:52 -0000
From: turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning your car using "Scotch Brite" pads

No that is not the right pad!
The pad you need is the 3M 7446 blending pad.
It is a coarse pad that will give you the correct grain that you want.
If you use the red or green pads they are too fine and will make the 
finish too shinny.

The 7446 pads are a bit harder to find ( I have not seen them in Home 
Depot),but you could find them at a good automotive paint suppler or 
maybe a good paint or hardware store. A restaurant supply store may 
also have them. Once again the easy way to get them is call to your 
favorite DeLorean supplier because they will have them. They cost is
a little more then the red pads probably $1.75 to $2.00 each pad.

Here is a the 3m product info 
http://www.3m.com/intl/CA/English/centres/mfg_industrial/elpd/media/ab
rasive.pdf

Regards,


Mike D.
Vin 3113
NY Lic. DLORIANN




-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> The FAQ area on DMCNEWS says you can use a "scotch Brite" pad to 
clean and
> remove minor scratches from your Delorean.  I have some areas that
I 
would
> like to fix up, and I went out and got some ACTUAL Scotch Brite 
Pads.  I
> have not used it yet, and I was wondering if I had the right 
product.
> If you go to this link: http://www.abato.net/sbpad.jpg  you can see 
a
> picture of what I bought.  There is a floppy disk in picture for 
size
> comparison.
> They are not steel (at least I do not think so...they are green in 
color)
> and appear to be safe to use.  Can someone please comment on this?
> 
> Kevin Abato
> Vin# 16680




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 11:33:12 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Radio Reception with Windshield Antenna

My 81 DeLorean originally came with the radio antenna build into its
windshield.  As you might expect, I grew accostomed to poor radio
reception.

This week I had a new windshield installed, this one without the
built-in antenna.  The installer simply left the antenna lead loose in
the corner of my dashboard.  I had already purchased an aftermarket
"stick on" windshield antenna from Radio Shak, but I probably will not
bother to use it . . .

I turned on my antennaless radio this morning and I can barely tell the
difference.  No antenna works almost as well as the windshield antenna
did!

So much for preserving originality.  It looks as though I have a power
antenna mast somewhere in my future.

I might still try the Radio Shack unit, just for the sake of
comparison.  It would not take much to be better than that original
antenna was.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 10:59:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: idle problem


I read Klaus' ilde problems with interest since it is
something I have begun to experience.  

My car starts immediately.  It idles smoothly when
cold.  Then, when worm, it starts the "seeking".  On
occasion it will go so low that it will die.  Restarts
immediately. It runs very well - no misses - no smoke
- no suggestions of any problems. 

Any suggestions?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 11:36:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Bay Area Bull*

Hi guys,

I simply cannot beliieve my bad luck when it comes to cars and the shops
that fix them. I've got a relatively small problem with my car right now.
My brakes squeal, and there is a clicking sound coming from the left rear
wheel. I took the car to my local guy that I've used a couple times
before. I gave him numbers for Rob Grady and for DMC Houston for parts.

Well, he called me back this morning with a quote. It seems that I need my
front rotors turned, rear rotors replaced, pads all around, and the
anti-rattle spring set for the rear (probably some anti-squeal shims as
well). He quoted me 680 dollars for the parts and 460 dollars for the
labor. This sounds outrageous to me. He said that he marks the parts up
10%, but by my calculations, he's marking them up 300%.

And to top it off - when they were inspecting the car earlier this week,
they broke my parking brake. I haven't worked on brakes much before, but
the ammount of work to be done doesn't seem that difficult. I'm
considering attempting the job myself, but would much rather have a shop
do it... but not for 1200 dollars. If anyone in the San Francisco bay area
could recommend a shop to me, or if anyone can provide any tips on brake
work (specifit to the DeLorean or otherwise), it would be much appreciated
(and worth 1200 bucks!)

-Christian
#3452




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:40:06 -0700
From: "Jeff Angwin" <jeff_at_dml_coware.com>
Subject: RE: Bay Area Bull*

Sad, isn't it? I have not yet found a local Bay Area shop that I'd trust my
D to. But that's probably because I've been so happy with Delorean Motor
Center in Garden Grove. The going rate to ship a car down there is $200, so
it might be money well spent. At least you'll know that the D is being
treated really well. (One of the NCDMC club members is having his shipped
down there within a few days, so you might consider getting your car put on
the same truck)

I recently had some door work done on mine. Unfortunately, as things go, the
driver door jammed yesterday in the closed and locked position. Delorean
Motor Center's first comment when I called for advice this morning, was
"When do you want me to fly up to fix it?" That's pretty good service!

---Jeff---
VIN 3034


-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean_at_dml_framezero.com]
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 11:37 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Bay Area Bull*


Hi guys,

I simply cannot beliieve my bad luck when it comes to cars and the shops
that fix them. I've got a relatively small problem with my car right now.
My brakes squeal, and there is a clicking sound coming from the left rear
wheel. I took the car to my local guy that I've used a couple times
before. I gave him numbers for Rob Grady and for DMC Houston for parts.

Well, he called me back this morning with a quote. It seems that I need my
front rotors turned, rear rotors replaced, pads all around, and the
anti-rattle spring set for the rear (probably some anti-squeal shims as
well). He quoted me 680 dollars for the parts and 460 dollars for the
labor. This sounds outrageous to me. He said that he marks the parts up
10%, but by my calculations, he's marking them up 300%.

And to top it off - when they were inspecting the car earlier this week,
they broke my parking brake. I haven't worked on brakes much before, but
the ammount of work to be done doesn't seem that difficult. I'm
considering attempting the job myself, but would much rather have a shop
do it... but not for 1200 dollars. If anyone in the San Francisco bay area
could recommend a shop to me, or if anyone can provide any tips on brake
work (specifit to the DeLorean or otherwise), it would be much appreciated
(and worth 1200 bucks!)

-Christian
#3452



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 15:36:19 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Re: Bay Area Bull*

I dont know about the part's prices, because I have not checked on them
recently.. But I can tell you that there is nothing special about the DeLorean
breaking system.  In fact, most modern cars with rear disk brakes require a
special tool to turn the piston back in to the caliper (for the E-Brake to
work), where the DeLorean has a second set of pads for the E-Brake.  This design
item makes it even easier to do the rear brakes than on other "standard" cars.

Although I cannot recommend a place in your area, I can tell you that all you
need to do is find a good honest mechanic (Which seems VERY hard to in recent
years), and they will be able to handle the job at a reasonable rate.


Christian Williams wrote:
><SNIP>
> 
> Well, he called me back this morning with a quote. It seems that I need my
> front rotors turned, rear rotors replaced, pads all around, and the
> anti-rattle spring set for the rear (probably some anti-squeal shims as
> well). He quoted me 680 dollars for the parts and 460 dollars for the
> labor. This sounds outrageous to me. He said that he marks the parts up
> 10%, but by my calculations, he's marking them up 300%.
<SNIP>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 15:52:21 -0400
From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>
Subject: RE: Radio Reception with Windshield Antenna

Mike:

When DMC Joe was here in Cleveland, he installed a Radio Shack antenna on my
car.  The reception is still not great, but it does work well, was not
expensive and I gather an easy install.  If you like the look and want
somewhat better reception, go for the Radio Shack unit!

David Levey

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Substelny [mailto:msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu]
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 11:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Radio Reception with Windshield Antenna

My 81 DeLorean originally came with the radio antenna build into its
windshield.  As you might expect, I grew accostomed to poor radio
reception.

This week I had a new windshield installed, this one without the
built-in antenna.  The installer simply left the antenna lead loose in
the corner of my dashboard.  I had already purchased an aftermarket
"stick on" windshield antenna from Radio Shak, but I probably will not
bother to use it . . .

I turned on my antennaless radio this morning and I can barely tell the
difference.  No antenna works almost as well as the windshield antenna
did!

So much for preserving originality.  It looks as though I have a power
antenna mast somewhere in my future.

I might still try the Radio Shack unit, just for the sake of
comparison.  It would not take much to be better than that original
antenna was.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 16:38:38 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Bay Area Bull*

Christian,

Changing the brake pads on your DeLorean is relatively easy. You can
purchase a complete set, front and rear including antirattle springs, pins,
antisqueal compound, and antisqueal shims for around $100.

If you want to leave the job to a service facility, find one that will
install the parts that you supply them with and will only charge you for
labor. We routinely service DeLoreans with parts supplied by the owner. As
long as the part is specified for the DeLorean we will install the parts at
no additional charge.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Bay Area Bull*


> Hi guys,
>
> I simply cannot beliieve my bad luck when it comes to cars and the shops
> that fix them. I've got a relatively small problem with my car right now.
> My brakes squeal, and there is a clicking sound coming from the left rear
> wheel. I took the car to my local guy that I've used a couple times
> before. I gave him numbers for Rob Grady and for DMC Houston for parts.
>
> Well, he called me back this morning with a quote. It seems that I need my
> front rotors turned, rear rotors replaced, pads all around, and the
> anti-rattle spring set for the rear (probably some anti-squeal shims as
> well). He quoted me 680 dollars for the parts and 460 dollars for the
> labor. This sounds outrageous to me. He said that he marks the parts up
> 10%, but by my calculations, he's marking them up 300%.
>
> And to top it off - when they were inspecting the car earlier this week,
> they broke my parking brake. I haven't worked on brakes much before, but
> the ammount of work to be done doesn't seem that difficult. I'm
> considering attempting the job myself, but would much rather have a shop
> do it... but not for 1200 dollars. If anyone in the San Francisco bay area
> could recommend a shop to me, or if anyone can provide any tips on brake
> work (specifit to the DeLorean or otherwise), it would be much appreciated
> (and worth 1200 bucks!)
>
> -Christian
> #3452





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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 16:44:26 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: idle problem

Dick,

There are three possible causes for your idle and stalling problem. 
1) Problem in the fuel enrichment circuit.
2) Problem in the idle speed circuit.
3) Out of tolerance CO mix adjustment.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] idle problem


> 
> I read Klaus' ilde problems with interest since it is
> something I have begun to experience.  
> 
> My car starts immediately.  It idles smoothly when
> cold.  Then, when worm, it starts the "seeking".  On
> occasion it will go so low that it will die.  Restarts
> immediately. It runs very well - no misses - no smoke
> - no suggestions of any problems. 
> 
> Any suggestions?





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:08:38 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: help! no power to fuse # 7

The power feed to the rpm relay comes directly from the 12 volt bus
(terminal connection for all 12v + wires) located behind the parcel shelf
back wall. It is extremely unlikely that there is a problem at the junction.

Try this test before you proceed any further. Pull the # 7 fuse and check
for 12 volts at the driver side blade. Replace the fuse with a known good
fuse, you should now see 12 volts at the solid brown wire at the RPM relay.

Let me know your results.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 1:03 AM
Subject: [DML] help! no power to fuse # 7


> Hey all,
>
> today as i was jumping the RPM relay for about the 100th time while
> diagnosing my fuel problem, something shorted out (i think) and i can't
get
> it to jump anymore.  the RPM relay lost power.  i know this because i'm
using
> a test light. i followed the wiring diagram in the shop manual to the main
> fuel relay.  no power there either.  from there i went to the fuse block,
the
> next stop on the chart.  no power to the fuse, and the fuse isn't blown.
i
> know the fuse block has power because i tested the interior lights fuse
slot
> and the light turned on on my test light.  from there the diagram goes to
a
> big spiral thing without any numbers or labels on it, just a ton of brown
> wires going into it and coming back out like it's some sort of power
> junction.  what is this thing?  and more importantly, where is it?
>
> and most importantly, anyone know where to look next?  i gotta get this
> problem straightened out before i can continue working on my fuel problem.
>
> one thing turns into another....
> Andy
>
> Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:14:23 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Lancia on eBay

A while back there was a discussion on how the Lancia resembles the 
Delorean.  Go to 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=577431895

and check out the pics.  Look in the back ground to find a suprize!

Erik
04512






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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 16:23:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: help! no power to fuse # 7/ make a jumper switch

try not to do to mutch jumping this can cause shorts
if you have to do a jump make a simple jumper switch.
take two alagator clips and attach a switch inbatween
them, put the aligator clips on each side of what you
want to jumper and flick the switch this keeps the
jump contained diagram below
  Terminal A           Terminal B
      H                    H

      Y--------./ .--------Y

Y = Aligator clip
./ .= switch
--- = wire

email me if you want a better diagram
the_horseman_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 1:03 AM
> Subject: [DML] help! no power to fuse # 7
> 
> 
> > Hey all,
> >
> > today as i was jumping the RPM relay for about the
> 100th time while
> > diagnosing my fuel problem, something shorted out
> (i think) and i can't
> get
> > it to jump anymore.  the RPM relay lost power.  i
> know this because i'm
> using
> > a test light. i followed the wiring diagram in the
> shop manual to the main
> > fuel relay.  no power there either.  from there i
> went to the fuse block,
> the
> > next stop on the chart.  no power to the fuse, and
> the fuse isn't blown.
> i
> > know the fuse block has power because i tested the
> interior lights fuse
> slot
> > and the light turned on on my test light.  from
> there the diagram goes to
> a
> > big spiral thing without any numbers or labels on
> it, just a ton of brown
> > wires going into it and coming back out like it's
> some sort of power
> > junction.  what is this thing?  and more
> importantly, where is it?
> >
> > and most importantly, anyone know where to look
> next?  i gotta get this
> > problem straightened out before i can continue
> working on my fuel problem.
> >
> > one thing turns into another....
> > Andy
> >
> > Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
> > 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> > Fargo, ND 58102
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
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Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:22:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Bay Area Bull*

On Fri, 13 Apr 2001, Christian Williams wrote:

> I simply cannot beliieve my bad luck when it comes to cars and the
> shops that fix them. I've got a relatively small problem with my car

Seems mostly with the shop at this point.

> right now. My brakes squeal, and there is a clicking sound coming from
> the left rear wheel. I took the car to my local guy that I've used a

Squealing brakes are most commonly the result of brake pad issues.  If
your pads aren't worn, don't worry about it - try a different brand of pad
next time.

Squealing brakes can also be the result of glazed rotors.  This happens
when brakes get overheated and isn't the result of normal use.  Turning
rotors will usually cure this.  You can usually tell glazed rotors by
looking at them - instead of the normal silvery-gray color (rotors are
iron) they will be a sort of blue or yellowy color.  It is *not* necessary
to turn rotors on a schedule or with every pad change.  Only turn them if
they are damaged.

A clicking sound coming from a wheel is the wheel bearing 9 times out of
10.  Wheel bearings sound ominous but are not really all that hard to deal
with.  The anti-rattle spring can also cause it, however, the anti-rattle
spring is quite cheap.  It is also extremely easy to install as it is a
part of the normal pad changing process.

> Well, he called me back this morning with a quote. It seems that I
> need my front rotors turned, rear rotors replaced, pads all around,

Unless your brake system suffered some sort of damage, probably he is
overstating his case.  If your brakes don't vibrate and the fronts aren't
discolored, they don't need to be turned.  The rears might need to be
replaced if they are worn so they are too thin, but that, cracking, severe
warping (which would also cause vibration) or other miscellaneous physical
damage are the only reasons to replace rotors.  As with glazing, you can
tell cracking by looking, and you can do that yourself, even if you have
no mechanical skills at all.

> And to top it off - when they were inspecting the car earlier this
> week, they broke my parking brake. I haven't worked on brakes much

That's probably the most difficult part of the whole thing to fix :}

Of course, they are responsible for repairing that.

> before, but the ammount of work to be done doesn't seem that
> difficult. I'm considering attempting the job myself, but would much
> rather have a shop do it... but not for 1200 dollars. If anyone in the

Although brakes may be a little unsettling to work on due to their
importance, they are really not that hard.  And IMO if you are even
somewhat mechanically competent, that's one of the things you're better
off doing yourself.  It requires more care than skill and you will always 
care more than the shop.

> San Francisco bay area could recommend a shop to me, or if anyone can
> provide any tips on brake work (specifit to the DeLorean or
> otherwise), it would be much appreciated (and worth 1200 bucks!)

Everything I've said here is applicable to any disc-brake car (with
detachable rotors).

I don't know any DeLorean-oriented shops in that area (Delorean One and
Specialty Automotive are both pretty far).  Maybe there is one that I
don't know of.




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 23:29:38
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Help! Idle problems - Microswitch - Loose wires!


My DeLorean idles perfect around 775 when the engine is cold, but when the 
engine is warm it has a high idle of around 1000-1500, mostly around 1300. 
Quite annoying when stopping at a red light...this type of attention I can 
be without...vrrooom! :-)

Last year I had to change the waterpump. My local garage did this, but when 
I got my DeLorean back there were two(?) loose wires hanging on the top of 
the engine, close to the microswitch. Of course they had been disconnected 
when they worked the waterpump, and forgot where they went when hooking it 
all back up.

At that time I experienced a strange tacho, so somehow I personally managed 
to hook up the wires in one way or another so at least the tach is working. 
I am not sure however, if I got it correct and since this wiring isn't 
illustrated in any manual it would be nice if someone could send me a 
digital photo showing these wires and where they connect around/on the 
microswitch-area. To explain further, these are NOT the wires running on the 
top of the engine (the ones that connects to the whiteplugs). The wires I'm 
talking about are the wires which you can only reach when loosening the 
airfilter box.

I think maybe my idle problems *can* be solved simply by correct wiring in 
this particular area.

As I can remember, the one wire was the typical black plastic plug (as also 
found in the relay compartment), the other wires simply had a metal O-ring 
at the end of it. Maybe there was one more wire but I'm not sure.

Where should these wires connect?

I think maybe I've hooked up the black plug in a way that it interferes with 
the microswitch, and therefore mis-idles when engine is warm. Is there any 
truth to this? Or am I lost here?

So - can anyone provide me a good photo of the area around the microswitch 
and where the two (three?) wires should connect?

Of course any suggestions are very welcome!

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759

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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 20:20:52 EDT
From: DBJCFAM_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Door Seals

My door seals always seem to crack, on the top, from opening and closing the 
doors.  It almost seems like the headliner is too big, and it is rubbing 
against it.  Does anybody know the fix?

Dennis



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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