From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 503
Date: Monday, April 16, 2001 1:29 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Speedo. light problems...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: Door Seals
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

3. Where is VIN#1743 ?
From: "Mr Copies" <mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com>

4. Re: idle problem
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

5. Clock
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

6. A thank you
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. my eternal fuel woes
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. frequency valve hose first, or main return first?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: my eternal fuel woes
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

10. Re: Re: No Juice
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: frequency valve hose first, or main return first?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

12. diagnosing broken e-brake ?
From: orentha_at_dml_hotmail.com

13. Front grill mounting clips
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

14. Spelling Bee
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

15. No juice
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

16. Brake light problem
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

17. fuel pressure sensor?
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>

18. Re: Spelling Bee
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

19. Re: Brake light problem
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

20. Re: Spelling Bee
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Spelling Bee
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

22. Re: diagnosing broken e-brake ?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

23. Re: Brake light problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

24. Re: Spelling Bee
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

25. how to clean fuel lines
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:08:16 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo. light problems...

Richard,

If the entire instrument cluster back lighting is dimmer than normal you
have a defective dimmer potentiometer.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 3:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Speedo. light problems...


> Ever since I bought my D about 6 months ago, I noticed that the
> speedometer consol's light seemed strangely dim.  I haven't asked
> or done anything about it since, but the other day while taking my
> D out at night, I noticed that the light was suddenly BRIGHT after
> starting the car up.  It stayed that way (which I thought was cool,
> but strange) for about 10-15 minutes, then it went dim again.
>
> Do I have some sort of short somewhere?  Did I move a nob to
> adjust the brightness of the consol light?  What is going on here?
>
> As usual, thank you for your guy's great help in advance,
>
> Richard





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:11:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Door Seals

This is a common problem and is a result of the extremely narrow space
between the door and body. The windshield upper corners are the most common
problem area. If the door seal has been on the car for a period long enough
to distort the seal you will need to purchase a replacement. When installing
the new seal some fancy finger work is required to form the seal to allow
the door to close without pinching the seal. An occasional application of
silicon will prevent sticking until the new seal settles in.

In some cases, possibly yours, a miss-installed headliner fabric could cause
this problem.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <DBJCFAM_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 8:20 PM
Subject: [DML] Door Seals


> My door seals always seem to crack, on the top, from opening and closing
the
> doors.  It almost seems like the headliner is too big, and it is rubbing
> against it.  Does anybody know the fix?
>
> Dennis





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 01:15:36 -0700
From: "Mr Copies" <mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com>
Subject: Where is VIN#1743 ?

Hi

If your VIN# is 1743 or you know who's it is, please contact me.
I found the original window sticker in a pile of stuff I just bought.
 
It was an 81 build with a black interior and manual transmission.


Thanks
mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com
VIN#17089
Windsor, Ontario

  




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 13:50:02 +0200
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: Re: idle problem

Thanks for all suggestions, I've found the problem. After I replaced all
20 year old brittle rubber fuel-lines with stainless steel lines there
was a vacuum leak at the oil filler cap, after repairing it everything
runs great.

Klaus Steiner
VIN#05980 -Germany-
www.steinerklaus.de


>    Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 13:09:02 +0200
>    From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
> Subject: idle problem
> 
> Hi group,
> 
> Following problem occurs:
> My engine idles between 500 an 1000 rpm when warm, idle speed
> microswitch works. When I press the full throttle enrichment microswitch
> the frequency valve changes noise and the engine idles at 1000 rpm. Any
> suggestions?



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 09:29:08 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Clock

My car vin #005732 has the center clock which works.....almost.  The
time on it sometime read in military time....???  Yestersday it read
23:45...Now, I know that this isn't the most sophisticated clock so as
far as I know there is no military time mode.

Is this a function of how it is wired that is causing the weird
readings?  Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tom

visit me at:
www.geocities.com/outatime81




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 15:43:22 -0000
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: A thank you



  Just wanted to give a quick thanks to everyone here for their help and 
advise on the D I'm looking into.  I am still not sure if I can obtain the 
money for the car, but if I can, I will go over what you guys have told me 
and if it still looks good, then make him an offer.  We'll see.

  And to clear it up, yes it is the GAS STRUT that needs to be replaced.  
NOT the torsion bars.  I appreciate the clarification of the two and even 
the picture sent to me outlining where they are.  Thanks again guys.

  -Aaron C.

________________________________________________________

Have you moved into the Net City yet?  Come see your new favorite 
neighborhood!

Your Net City.Com

http://www.yournetcity.com


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 12:11:36 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: my eternal fuel woes

Hey All,

lately things have been really strange with my fuel pressures.  it seems like 
every time i remove a hose to inspect it and then replace it, it changes my 
fuel pressures! for example, yesterday i removed the hollow bolt on the 
return side of the fuel distributer as well as the primary pressure regulator 
pin and the frequency valve sending hose.  after i put it back together (i 
know it's the correct way i might add), my pressures have been like 1.25 bar 
for control pressure and .25 bar for primary pressure.  then as soon as i 
turn off the pump, the rest pressure goes up to about 2.5 bar.  WTF!?!?!  
this would imply that now some part is jammed open or something.  these 
reading would be consistant with having a major fuel leak somewhere, but i 
have checked the whole system and i'm not leaking a drop.  first i had 
insanely high pressure, and now i have insanely low pressure!!!

i checked the polyeurethane hoses that connect to the pump.  i had to snip 
both of them and put the banjo fittings back on further up because i didn't 
realize that i had been twisting them while doing all this work with the 
pump.  also, i did another flow check - and i'm STILL getting 2 liters in one 
minute.  i took all those hoses off again, and put them back on, rearranged 
the pressure tester, etc etc etc, and the pressures are still really really 
low.  

one thing i'm concerned about is that the new pump that i have in for testing 
is the older one without a dome nut. the only way i could get it to work and 
not leak with my parts was use the non dome nut bolt that came with it, then 
use my banjo fitting on the pickup hose with two brass washers on either side 
of it.  i'm a little concerned that this isn't exactly the right hookup parts 
and i wonder if it's not working quite right.  but the pump sounds very 
healthy and according to my flow test, i'm not getting restricted.  

today i swapped control pressure regulators with one that i know works.  it 
DID NOT changes any of my pressures at all.  the car behaved the same with 
mine and with the other one.  i do not think that CPR is the problem now. 

here's what i propose - i believe it is about time that i started dismantling 
some stuff.  first start at the return lines at the fuel distributer, get an 
air compressor, and check for blockage, just blow air through them and see if 
it comes out the other side i guess.  check for bubbles in the gas tank.  if 
that checks out, it may be time to disconnect all the fuel hoses and do them 
all. take off the fuel distributer and make sure that is clean too (even 
though every time i've looked at it, it looks excellent).

any other ideas, short of getting it towed to an import dealer?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 14:30:16 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: frequency valve hose first, or main return first?

Hey guys,

you know the long hollow bolt with two holes in it on the fuel return side of 
the fuel distributer?  it is a long bolt with the frequency valve hose on it 
and the main fuel return line (metal pipe that sticks up).  

according to nick's fuel hose diagram on DMCNEWS, the main return goes 
closest to the fuel distributer, and the freq hose goes on the outside.  
that's how mine is.  however i went over to another delorean owner's house 
yesterday and his two hoses are on the opposite way.  first frequency valve, 
then main return after that.   the bolt does not look like it cares which 
hose goes first.  i tried switching mine just to see, and it didn't seem to 
make a difference.  is that correct?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 23:51:47 +0100
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: my eternal fuel woes

Andy

I assume u are not going to strip down the fuel distributor? As you will
have have a very small chance it will go back together without leaking. I
checked up and to get it serviced in the UK by a Bosch fuel injection main
agent and it was about $500. Ive been told there are $50 of parts needed
which Bosch will not supply to anyone. Have u tried a Bosch fuel injection
agent near you ? Or find a decent mobile mechanic.

Regards

Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2001 5:11 PM
Subject: [DML] my eternal fuel woes


> Hey All,
>
> lately things have been really strange with my fuel pressures.  it seems
like
> every time i remove a hose to inspect it and then replace it, it changes
my
> fuel pressures! for example, yesterday i removed the hollow bolt on the
> return side of the fuel distributer as well as the primary pressure
regulator
> pin and the frequency valve sending hose.  after i put it back together (i
> know it's the correct way i might add), my pressures have been like 1.25
bar
> for control pressure and .25 bar for primary pressure.  then as soon as i
> turn off the pump, the rest pressure goes up to about 2.5 bar.  WTF!?!?!
> this would imply that now some part is jammed open or something.  these
> reading would be consistant with having a major fuel leak somewhere, but i
> have checked the whole system and i'm not leaking a drop.  first i had
> insanely high pressure, and now i have insanely low pressure!!!
>
> i checked the polyeurethane hoses that connect to the pump.  i had to snip
> both of them and put the banjo fittings back on further up because i
didn't
> realize that i had been twisting them while doing all this work with the
> pump.  also, i did another flow check - and i'm STILL getting 2 liters in
one
> minute.  i took all those hoses off again, and put them back on,
rearranged
> the pressure tester, etc etc etc, and the pressures are still really
really
> low.
>
> one thing i'm concerned about is that the new pump that i have in for
testing
> is the older one without a dome nut. the only way i could get it to work
and
> not leak with my parts was use the non dome nut bolt that came with it,
then
> use my banjo fitting on the pickup hose with two brass washers on either
side
> of it.  i'm a little concerned that this isn't exactly the right hookup
parts
> and i wonder if it's not working quite right.  but the pump sounds very
> healthy and according to my flow test, i'm not getting restricted.
>
> today i swapped control pressure regulators with one that i know works.
it
> DID NOT changes any of my pressures at all.  the car behaved the same with
> mine and with the other one.  i do not think that CPR is the problem now.
>
> here's what i propose - i believe it is about time that i started
dismantling
> some stuff.  first start at the return lines at the fuel distributer, get
an
> air compressor, and check for blockage, just blow air through them and see
if
> it comes out the other side i guess.  check for bubbles in the gas tank.
if
> that checks out, it may be time to disconnect all the fuel hoses and do
them
> all. take off the fuel distributer and make sure that is clean too (even
> though every time i've looked at it, it looks excellent).
>
> any other ideas, short of getting it towed to an import dealer?
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:50:49 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: No Juice

Jason,

Dave is precisely correct; try a different battery. Concerning your start
inhibit relay, there are several relays that have a "no connection" contact;
this is normal.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 8:11 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: No Juice


> Measure voltage drop across every connection till you find the one
> that is causing your problem. The battery could be the problem, I
> have seen fully charged batteries that as soon as you put a load on
> them it is like a connection inside the battery is broken. Load test
> the battery or just try jumping the car with another while you try to
> start it.Or just try another battery. There is nothing special about
> troubleshooting this problem in the electrical system in the Delorean
> as opposed to any other automobile. Don't get thrown off by the
> unusual locations of the components, it still works like any other
> car. I wouldn't touch the inhibit relay till you can keep the power up
> in the car. If the inhibit relay was the source of the problem it
> would have no effect on the gauges, courtesy lights, or buzzer.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> >       Hello All,
> >
> >                  I have ran into a problem today. I went out to
> start the DeLorean to take it out for
> > a drive but when I tried to start it it turned over maybe twice and
> then all electrical power
> > seemed to have died very suddenly. I now have no courtesy lights, no
> buzzer, no ignition,
> > and the gauges won't budge when you turn the key. Absolutely no
> power at all. Heres what





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 00:41:16 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: frequency valve hose first, or main return first?

It doesn't matter mechanically which order you reinstall the 2 hoses 
on the long bolt since they are both connected to the same point. The 
only thing is to route the hoses so there are no sharp bends or kinks 
and they don't go near heat or sharp edges. Flow and pressure are not 
the same thing, you could have high flow at low pressure and no flow 
at high pressure. Now that you have LOW pressure check the primary 
regulater if it is stuck open, the pump, it may not be able to make 
pressure, the suction hose, it may be kinked or collapsed, the fuel 
filter, it may be plugged up. As I expected trying a different Control 
Pressure Regulater had no effect. If you cannot get the Primary 
pressure regulated then you can't measure the cpr, it will only work 
correctly once you get primary pressure correct. You may still have a 
cpr problem but you can't tell yet!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey guys,
> 
> you know the long hollow bolt with two holes in it on the fuel 
return side of 
> the fuel distributer?  it is a long bolt with the frequency valve 
hose on it 
> and the main fuel return line (metal pipe that sticks up).  
> 





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 01:09:15 -0000
From: orentha_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: diagnosing broken e-brake ?

My emergency brake hasn't worked at all since I've owned my D.  

Just curious as to what would be the best way to diagnose and solve 
this problem...

Thanks.




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 21:28:04 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Front grill mounting clips

Hey List,

    Today I installed those 8 little clips that secures the grill that has 
the DMC emblem to the front fascia.  I just wanted to send a post to the list 
telling everyone that this is something that should be looked at on all your 
cars.  On my car, this grill was only held on by 2 clips, the rest had rusted 
up and the retaining part of the clip broke off.  I know that the clips are a 
little expensive ($2.95 each for 8 of them) but if those clips let out, your 
grill will go flying under your car, and in the path of the tire of the car 
behind you, then $23.60 isn't that much compared to $352.14 you would need to 
replace the grill (taken off DMC Houston web page).  The job isn't that labor 
intensive, just need to use a drill to take out the old rivets (word of 
advice...make sure the drill bit you use is long, I  scraped a part of the 
drill against my fascia a little...good thing I am having it painted soon) 
and you will need a rivet gun to install the new rivets.  Just wanted to let 
the list know of a possible problem they might have on their car and to pull 
off the grill and see what those clips look like.  I didn't do it to 
mine...but maybe you can spray the new ones with some rust protectant paint 
so you won't have to replace them again.  Oh yeah...I will have an update on 
my restoration soon, so keep checking the DML!

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 21:53:22 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Spelling Bee

Question:  I have seen it written many different ways.  What is the correct
grammar for writing Delorean? (What letters are caps?)
Is it:
1  DeLorean
2  Delorean
3  De Lorean

I mostly go with #2, but I am not sure what the OFFICIAL spelling is.




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 19:04:09 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: No juice

Get a volt meter, put it across your battery, see that it reads 12 volts
or more, turn on the lights or anything that draws current...if you
still have 12 volts it's a connection problem, if you no longer have 12
volts and nothing is smoking, you have a battery problem.

Les




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 19:12:50 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: Brake light problem

Listmembers:
My right brake lights don't work. I have checked the bulbs and they are OK. I also took the connector apart and lightly filed the contacts but the right brake lights still don't work. Does anyone have any ideas what I should do next?

Many thanks in advance to this wonderful source for information and help.

Joe Thome
'81 "D" VIN 6467 since 3/12/01











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:25:21 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>
Subject: fuel pressure sensor?

With all the recent attention on fuel pressure, maybe its a good time 
to ask a question that I've been saving for awhile:

As some of you know, I have been chipping away at a long-term project 
to add some modern electronics to my D. Among other things, I would 
like to do some continuous monitoring of various vehicle systems. One 
thing on my list is fuel pressure. Wouldn't it be neat (and 
informative) to continuously monitor and record the real-time 
pressure at one or more points in the fuel system? With this 
capability, a lot of the most difficult engine problem diagnoses 
would become much easier. (Imagine watching the pressure leak away 
due to a bad accumulator...)

So, I have two questions:

1) Does anybody know a source of an appropriate pressure sensor (not 
a gauge, but a sensor with an electrical or electronic output, 
analogous to the oil pressure sender)? I can handle the electronics, 
but am clueless as to where to find such a part.

2) At what point(s) of the system would it be most informative (and 
practical) to install such sensors?

--Pete Lucas
    VIN #06703



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 02:38:33 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Spelling Bee

Delorean is how JZD's last name is really spelled (since his birth). 
However, while John was working at GM, he changed it to De Lorean in 
order to give it a more exotic flavor. Which is how you currently see 
it on the rear bumper. DeLorean is basicly a compromise of both, and 
is usually the most commonly used. Plus for me it's quicker to type.

On a related note, these two spellings can make it difficult to find 
the info you're looking for when searching for web pages. And what 
you may not know is many more web pages are out there with the 
totally inaccurate misspelling of "DeLorian"!

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Question:  I have seen it written many different ways.  What is the 
correct
> grammar for writing Delorean?
<SNIP>




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 02:41:15 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Brake light problem

Check all of your fuses. I forget which one it is, but one fuse is 
tied into the left side brake lights, and another is tied into the 
right side brake lights.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Listmembers:
> My right brake lights don't work. I have checked the bulbs and they 
are OK. I also took the connector apart and lightly filed the 
contacts but the right brake lights still don't work. Does anyone 
have any ideas what I should do next?
<SNIP>




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:45:13 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Spelling Bee

I am pretty sure it is: DeLorean, although I have seen it De Lorean.
I have actually seen it both ways, from factory stuff, meaning that in the 
manual, I think it says DeLorean, and other ways, like on dealership signs, I 
see De Lorean.
Even John DeLorean signed my brochure "John DeLorean."

So, it must be either way, but I think it is DeLorean.

John Feldman
VIN 4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 21:51:54 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Spelling Bee

The official spelling is #3. Check out a scan of my original window
sticker. You can see the space in the name. Also the rear bumper shows it.

http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/images/windowsticker.jpg

However, most people use #1. DMC Houston who bought the rights to the DMC
name uses #1 also.

And lots of people use #2.

So the answer is: Use whatever you like. They all work!

Mark Noeltner
Webmaster
Mid-State DeLorean Club
http://www.midstatedmc.com/

At 09:53 PM 4/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Question:  I have seen it written many different ways.  What is the correct
>grammar for writing Delorean? (What letters are caps?)
>Is it:
>1  DeLorean
>2  Delorean
>3  De Lorean
>



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 03:46:44 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: diagnosing broken e-brake ?

The way to figure out what is wrong is to first do a visual 
inspection. Jack up the car, remove the rear wheels and see what is 
missing, broken, rusted, etc. Refer to 6-2-1 in workshop manual for 
locations, routing, and correct parts. It is not a good idea to drive 
much without a working e-brake especially in a 5-speed! The most 
common things that go wrong are 
1 out of adjustment
2 rusted, broken cable
3 worn out brake pads
If you just put your eyeballs on it the trouble will quickly be 
obvious.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., orentha_at_dml_h... wrote:
> My emergency brake hasn't worked at all since I've owned my D.  
> 
> Just curious as to what would be the best way to diagnose and solve 
> this problem...
> 
> Thanks.




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 03:55:44 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Brake light problem

Use a test light or meter and follow the voltage to the point that it 
doesn't get to the bulbs. If it does get to the bulbs verify the 
ground connection is intact. The O.E.M. taillight boards are very 
unreliable. Either replace with Zilla boards or go to Radio Shack and 
get some tiny nuts and bolts and put into the rivets. Refer to 
archives for these fixes. Some have also soldered the rivets to the 
foil to try to get a good contact. Sometimes bulbs look good but 1 
side of the filiment has come loose and is just touching the contact. 
I flick the bulb with a finger and watch to see if the filiment is 
only hanging on at 1 end.(It will wave with only 1 end attached) This 
is a large cause of intermittant bulbs.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Listmembers:
> My right brake lights don't work. I have checked the bulbs and they 
are OK. I also took the connector apart and lightly filed the contacts 
but the right brake lights still don't work. Does anyone have any 
ideas what I should do next?
> 
> Many thanks in advance to this wonderful source for information and 
help.
> 
> Joe Thome
> '81 "D" VIN 6467 since 3/12/01
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 01:16:57 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Spelling Bee

In a message dated 4/15/01 9:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_abato.net writes:


> Question:  I have seen it written many different ways.  What is the correct
> grammar for writing Delorean? (What letters are caps?)
> Is it:
> 1  DeLorean
> 2  Delorean
> 3  De Lorean
> 
> I mostly go with #2, but I am not sure what the OFFICIAL spelling is.
> 

that's funny, because i think most people would say that # 2 is the most 
INCORRECT way of spelling!  all official DeLorean papers from the 80's, that 
i have seen, are written De Lorean, while many of the vendors and other newer 
papers and such tend to write DeLorean.  Delorean is not correct at all - you 
have to remember that this is someone's name!  De Lorean would be correct in 
that case, unless your name really happens to be 'Delorean'.

i'd say either 1 or 3 are acceptable.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 01:34:26 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: how to clean fuel lines

Hey guys,

well here's what i'm going to do next.  i need a new fuel pump for sure, so 
i'm going to order a new one, plus a new suction hose.  i'll get the newer 
pump because i know that that one works with my fittings and stuff.  i'm a 
little skeptical with this older one i'm using.  

in the mean time, i think i should start removing my fuel lines in the engine 
compartment one by one and getting them cleaned and checked for blockage or 
twisting or something crazy like that.  i would like to remove every flexible 
fuel line from the car that i can get to.  no way do i want to touch those 
metal ones under the car though.  that would be a lot of work, unless there's 
an easy way to flush them out that someone knows of.  how about the flexible 
fuel hoses under the car?  are those worth the trouble of removing and 
checking? if i were to jack the car up and take them off, which hoses could 
be problems? as i look in the parts manual, i can't really tell which hoses 
near the accumulator could be at fault.  which parts numbers or ID#'s on the 
DeLorean Houston site should i check out?  then i'll have to get some brass 
clamps i suppose.  

finally, if i were take each fuel hose out of my engine compartment, what's 
the best way of cleaning them, and making sure they are clean? with the 
fittings on, you can't really see through them.....  there must be some kind 
of a cleaner that you can soak the hose in safely or something. or maybe just 
compressed air? i don't know, tell me!

any other thoughts along these lines are more than welcome.

Andy



Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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