From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 512
Date: Sunday, April 22, 2001 5:37 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Magazine telephone number
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

2. Re: Volvo valve in air intake
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

3. Re: Volvo valve in air intake
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

4. RE: torsion bars & stolen cars
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

5. Welding my rusted frame
From: flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com

6. Bad Week
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>

7. my fuel problems
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Thanks to everyone
From: "Mark DeLoura" <madsax_at_dml_satori.org>

9. Temp Sensor - how to test?
From: E Grauff <datamonk_at_dml_svn.net>

10. Re: Bad Week
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

11. Rough idle and hard starting.
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

12. Re: Welding my rusted frame
From: "gwells" <gwells_at_dml_totalise.co.uk>

13. Oil filter and cross reference info
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>

14. Reminder - British Car Meet
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

15. Still need DMCTech?
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

16. Mid Atlantic Delorean Club Spring Social Pictures!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

17. RE: Re: Bad Week
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

18. Re: Bad Week
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Restoration Update
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
From: "Flash66" <flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com>

21. Leather care?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

22. Re: my fuel problems
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Bad Week
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 12:42:29 +0800
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Re: Magazine telephone number

I'm famous!

Thats my DeLorean you're talking about. It was featured in the 'Discovered'
section of the Brit magazine. Latest report ... the car is in a container
being shipped across the Pacific. She left HongKong last Thursday and will
arrive in LA next Saturday (5th). She will be fully restored over the coming
months.

See y'all in Belfast to yarn about this and other DeLorean trivia over a
pint of the famous black-stuff!

Cheers,         IAN
****************

----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Thome <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 5:04 AM
Subject: [DML] Magazine telephone number


> A recent posting mentioned that "Thoroughred & Clasic Cars" magazine had
an article about the DeLorean car in it's Spring 2001 issue. Does anyone
have a telephone number for this magzine so I can order a copy of this
issue. I can't get it locally.
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 05:30:03 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo valve in air intake

Yes, it does add a bit of restriction to the air intake.  This is one 
reasons why I removed my whole assembly and put a generic intake hose 
from the filter box to the elbow by the pontoon.  There isn't too much 
noticeable difference, but I could feel a slight boost at high rpms in 
higher gears.  The other reason I removed this off of my car was 
because mine was rusting, and fileing a hole into the aluminum cooling 
line which it rubs.  Anyone with this still in place really should 
check that alumimum pipe for wear.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> But isn't this whole air intake system with all its bends, hoses and
> that valve posing quite some air flow restriction and therefore some
> performance loss ?
> 
> Greetings,
> Roland

> Roland Barmettler - roli_at_dml_D... - http://www.DeLorean.ch - VIN #11512




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:17:20 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Volvo valve in air intake

Yes, it does cause a restriction. Even on the DOC UK's web site they 
mention that one of the modifications performed for the free flow 
exhaust system is the removal of this component. One of the things 
that I did to my car was I removed all the intake plumbing and 
ducting. Now I just have a flexable intake hose connected between the 
filter box and the intake mounted in the pontoon. It does indeed make 
a differance. While I'm not exactly able to outrun every other car on 
the road just yet, the engine does appear to breath a bit easier. The 
throttle does respond a bit quicker, but the imporvement by itself 
isn't something that I would brag that much about.

If you are looking to keep your car stock, or you live/operate your 
car in a cold climate, you're best to leave the assembly in place. If 
you're looking for little things you can do to help your car out, 
this may be one of them.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_d...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> But isn't this whole air intake system with all its bends, hoses and
> that valve posing quite some air flow restriction and therefore some
> performance loss ?
<SNIP>




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 22:34:05 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: torsion bars & stolen cars

> What is even more important is that there is a "left" and
> "right" hand to torsion bars. If you were to put it on the wrong side
> you will also break it so to anyone who buys it be careful!

Dave, you surprised me with this one.  I've always been very impressed with
your dead-on accurate tips.  I figured you would know the torsion bars do
not interchange - the forward ends are different.

I know mainly because I have parted out 6 cars over the last 15 years.  I
gave some thought to whether someone, especially the neighbors who saw me
dismantling them, might think they were stolen.  Some were incomplete enough
to not have VIN numbers, but I did have receipts for all of them.  None were
repairable.  And not once in all those years has anyone (at least to me)
wondered if they were "hot".  Two came out of junk yards, one from a body
shop, one from a person who bought it at auction, and one from a dealer in
CA with a weird story.  They said they had posession of the car when the
factory folded, but no title.  The dealer figured he had lost so much money
he would just keep it, but he couldn't sell it.  So he dismantled this brand
new car, down to the smallest bolt.  By the time I found it around 1988
about 25% was gone, and I acquired the rest along with his new parts
inventory.  The seats and a few other parts are in my blown car.  The VIN
was in the 700's, and at the time I reported the car to DOA as having been
parted out.

-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 08:23:58 -0000
From: flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com
Subject: Welding my rusted frame

I thoroughly inspected my frame today. It seems that the only 
rust "eaten" spot on the frame luckily is my front crossmember. As I 
started to chip away the epoxy I noticed a small indention in the 
metal. 
After a few blows with a hammer to check the integrity of the area , 
I made a nice gaping hole in the weak area. What I plan to do is cut 
a rectangle piece out of the bottom of the crossmember out between 
the two holes on each side of the bottom plate, treat the rust with 
acid ,
cover the entire section in and out with Truck bedliner spray (rhino 
liner) ((now availiable in a spray can.. perfect for the job )) and 
weld a new piece of 16 guage steel plate to the cut out area. My 
question to the group is ... 
I am a little worried about using my air cut-off wheel tool and mig 
in this area since the fuel tank is right behind this member. Sparks 
will be a flyin. I think it will be fine to do since there is a 
barrier of the back of the member between where im cutting and the 
fuel tank. But I just wanted a second opinion before I start cutting. 
I Don't really feel like blowing up this weekend (laugh) . Any 
comments would be appreciated.
-Paul #16811




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 22:38:29 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>
Subject: Bad Week

    It's me again, I have another question for all of you. I had my car out about a week ago and 
drove it for about 30 minutes or so and came home. The next day I went out to get in it and
it had no electrical power at all, I got that fixed a few days later. Now for the new problem. 
I decided I'd go ahead and get the car out yesterday but it wouldn't stay running right after 
starting. It'd run for about 5 seconds if I'm lucky and die. I was able to keep the car running if
I kept giving it gas but as soon as I'd let off the gas it would then die. Where should I start? 
Cold Start Valve? Thermo Time Switch? Maybe a vacuumm Line? 

                   Thanks in advance...............Obviously still learning.......Jason #5903


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:46:13 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: my fuel problems

Hey all,

this last week has been interesting.  i have dismantled by entire fuel system 
from the distributer to the injectors, and from the tank to the metal fuel 
lines.  i found i was missing a couple parts in the tank and i ordered new 
upper hoses, connectors, and some other goodies up there.  

the distributer was a difficult job.  i couldn't get it off of the intake 
manifold so i just unscrewed the whole air meter top and took the thing to a 
machine shop yesterday after about 50 more attempts at loosening the screws. 
i soon found that i could see the pin that goes in the distributer from the 
bottom of the air meter.  it wasn't moving like it should - it seemed to be 
stuck up in there because it wan't resting on the seesaw in there. well the 
guys at the shop had to use an impact screwdriver for about 15 minutes before 
they could loosen any screws. one of the hits i heard something go 'clink', 
which i imagine was the pin falling back down to where it should be. it was 
tough that in fact they wound up nearly splitting one of the screws in half 
it was so tight!!  well they called over their two biggest guys and one guy 
turned a huge screwdriver and another guy held the air meter (which i put on 
styrofoam so they woudn't damage it) and FINALLY they turned the screws 
out!!!  well the distributer shows absolutely no sign of corrosion inside of 
it from what i can see on the outside. the pin is in perfect shape, and it 
goes in very tightly, but once in, it just kinda 'floats' in there from the 
vacuum it makes.  also i put it back together and now the pin goes up and 
down with the distributer.  i think what happened is one of my amoco guys 
pushed the air meter down as far as it will go, and that pushed the pin up as 
high as IT can go - and it wasn't used to being that high so it caught way up 
there.  

here's what i am going to do now - i'll lube the pin up with WD-40 and put 
the whole fuel system back together with the new parts i have coming next 
week.  check out my pressures and see what happens. if they are still all 
messed up, i'm sending my whole fuel system to grady for a flushing and 
evaluation.

what do you guys think?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:58:04 -0700
From: "Mark DeLoura" <madsax_at_dml_satori.org>
Subject: Thanks to everyone

I've been lurking about on this list for about a month now, but
just want to take a moment to say THANKS to all of you who share
so much useful information on this list, especially those of you
who make a living from fixing DeLoreans and share that wisdom
here.  

It is because of all of you that I felt comfortable in recently 
purchasing VIN #10715 from Jason in Washington.  #10715 is a 
5-speed with gray interior, and needs all those little things 
that a running 20-year old D desires: brakes, struts, steering 
rebuild, interior work, fascia painting, etc.

But in general she's in good shape and I drive her a couple
times a week.  I'm learning a lot from everyone on this list and
enjoy taking each little nugget out to my garage to see if 
this or that bit has been upgraded or needs to be.

So, THANKS!
    ---Mark

--
Mark DeLoura
http://www.satori.org/
Oakland, CA  USA




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 12:06:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: E Grauff <datamonk_at_dml_svn.net>
Subject: Temp Sensor - how to test?

My temp gauge has stopped working.  I'd like to see if it is the sensor or
somewhere in the wiring.  Does anyone know how to test the sensor?  I
looked through the manual, but all I saw was how to replace one . . . 
Thanks
Eric






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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:46:58 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Bad Week

Quick question. When starting the car, do you have to push the gas 
pedal down? Or will the motor turnover without touching the throttle 
at all?

-Robert
vin 6585


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_n...> wrote:
<SNIP>
It'd run for about 5 seconds if I'm lucky and die. I was 
able to keep the car running if
> I kept giving it gas but as soon as I'd let off the gas it would 
then die. Where should I start?
<SNIP>




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 13:53:31 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Rough idle and hard starting.

Today I went for a nice long drive in my D, a favorite hobby nowadays.  It
had been functioning flawlessly all day until I pulled into a store parking
lot and it began to idle really rough.  I parked, and when I came out of the
store it wouldn't start.  A passerby suggested that I floor it and then try,
and that actually worked.  It started right up and the idle smoothed out.
After I drove it again the idle became just as rough and seemed to be a
couple hundred rpms lower than normal.  The car is driveable, just not
behaving properly.  Any suggestions?  The oil, charge, and temperature
guages were all normal, and no other warning lights were on provided they're
still functional.  This is the first day I've driven it on a warm day, not
hot, but warm by Oregon standards.

On a lighter note, a few people were crowded around to admire and ask
questions.  One guy really loved it and I let him sit in it.  I love owning
this car.  DeLoreans aren't just beautiful, they're works of art.

payne
Proud owner of #2975





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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 18:54:40 +0100
From: "gwells" <gwells_at_dml_totalise.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Welding my rusted frame

I had to do exactly the same job to do, and I would recommend that you
take out the petrol tank as, apart from the danger aspect, you may well
find that the back (ie petrol tank side) of the cross member needs some
repair as well. Mine certainly did.

Graham
VIN 17152 (UK)
----- Original Message -----
From: <flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Welding my rusted frame


> I thoroughly inspected my frame today.
.......snip
> I Don't really feel like blowing up this weekend (laugh) . Any
> comments would be appreciated.
> -Paul #16811
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 13:37:41 -0400
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>
Subject: Oil filter and cross reference info

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The subject line of this post was modified from it's original to be more descriptive of the content.]


>I need to know what oil filters Fit The
>car and if I could go to my local parts store for the louvre >struts?

i believe that the oil filter from a vw rabbit will do the job and as for
the sun-shade struts, i am not sure if they or original or not but the ones
that came on my car are from a lada.

there is a cross reference chart for parts available however, it is not
considered reliable.  you are best to buy your parts from a recognised
delorean parts dealer.

:)
<=-mike-=>
11434
www.nt.net/~mcutting





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Message: 14
Date: 22 Apr 2001 00:02:00 -0000
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Reminder - British Car Meet


We would like to remind you of this upcoming event.

British Car Meet 

Date: Sunday, May 6, 2001 
Time: All Day

Ninth Annual British Classic Car Meet, Richmond, VA at the
Boulders. Contact kmntr6_at_dml_aol.com or 804-527-1515 

 





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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 00:26:09 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Still need DMCTech?

I got a personal e-mail regarding the DMCTech site in view of the new search 
utility on the DMCNews site.  Since others have expressed the same idea, I 
thought I'd like to share my response with the DML and DMCTech Group lists:

Hi-

I've checked out the new google search engine at the dmcnews site, and it is 
an improvement but I'm hardly overwhelmed.   I'm still getting whole digests 
brought up, not individual messages or highlighted words.  Heck, I could do 
that before. I ran a search on my screen name and came up with 130 entries 
over the last 2 years I've been on the list.    On the actual DML site with 
the OLD search engine I came up with 30 last month alone.  At least I get 
individual messages, bot whole digests. (I did it a few days ago... some 
numbers may be slightly off but you get my drift. It's not finding 
everything! I didn't just start writing in January.)  And maybe I'm a search 
engine dunce, but I STILL can't see where to get the search words 
highlighted.  And the google search engine is not all that intuitive about 
it, at least not for me. It's way, way feeble compared to what I have in mind.
Let's put it this way;  I have all the back issues of DeLorean World... a 
stack over a foot long on my shelf.  There are tech articles in every issue.  
The old search engine is like thumbing through by reading the index in the 
front of every magazine, through all 18 or so year's worth of issues to try 
and find what you want.  The new search engine, since it can "learn," is like 
using the DW index that lists all the topics and where they appear, sometimes 
several limited-scope articles per item.  A big help, but you still have to 
flip back and forth among several issues reading a lot of stuff you don't 
need, in a "manual" contained in 4 huge binders.  Not to pick on D World, but 
it's not primarily a tech manual... and neither are the DML archives, are 
they? 
That's why I'm asking contributors to send in their articles to DMCTech. By 
the way, everything you send to D World is copyrighted by D World.  Since 
you've sold it to them, I'd guess you don't retain rights of republication.  
Maybe a DW staffer would care to shed light on that. At DMCTech, you still 
retain the rights to republish or whatever your own material. And in the 
early days, DW couldn't pay a cent for contributed articles either. 
Further, the new search engine doesn't address the "newbie file" idea at all. 
 Unless you know WHAT to search for, you can't find anything!
What I want to do is something like a good Chilton manual online, and 
eventually in print.  Everything you need in concise format.  Including stuff 
that isn't already there. Can you picture it?  Don't you want it?  I do!

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group



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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:29:56 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Mid Atlantic Delorean Club Spring Social Pictures!

The pictures from the Mid-Atlantic Delorean Club's 2001 Spring Social are
now online!

We had 31 cars show today, and the weather held out great for us!

You can access the pictures at www.abato.net/dmc/index.htm.  I am uploading
them now, so if they do not appear yet...try again in a couple of hours!

Kevin Abato
Vin# 18860




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:49:43 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Bad Week


Robert said,
Quick question. When starting the car, do you have to push the gas
pedal down? Or will the motor turnover without touching the throttle
at all?
------------------------------------------------------------
The book says to press the gas peddle down 1/4. But my car does not like
that and starts fine without touching the gas peddle. I guess it is what
ever the car likes.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252






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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:35:19 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Week

Jason, 

this could be any number of things.  is the car flooding or is running too 
lean?  your cold start valve is easy to check - just unscrew the two allen 
screws on either side of it, put it in a glass jar or cup, and have someone 
turn the key.  you should see a fine mist in the shape of an umbrella or arc 
come out of the cold start valve, but only for about a second or so.  then it 
should not continue.  also go to your electrical compartment and find your 
RPM relay.  it is the black box with the blue plug of six wires going into 
it.  it is located under the door control module closest to the firewall. or 
it may already be out and just lying loose back there.  pull the black box 
off of it and jump the brown wire (+12V) with the one diagnonal from it - the 
white/purple wire.  this will jump your fuel pump.  also while your are at it 
jump the brown wire with the one across from it, the yellow/orange.  you 
should hear a buzzing from the engine compartment. that's your frequency 
valve.  make sure both your fuel pump and frequency valve work.  the fuel 
pump is up near your spare tire, in fact right under it and under the 
windsheild.  it should sound like a cooling fan running - no frequency 
change, just a noticable 'RRRRRRRRRRRRRR......' you get the idea.  

after that, you might as well start checking for vacuum leaks. replace any 
hoses that feel stiff or brittle.  check for cracks or loose connections.  if 
you have any loose ones, either replace the hose, especially if it is hard, 
or get some hose clamps.  vacuum is a major factor in the operation of the 
car.  also look for any fuel leaks back there or under the car.  check your 
fuel pump to make sure the cover boot is over it and there is no water down 
where the pump actually operates.  this will lead to water in your gas, as i 
am so fond of by now.

since the car will start if you keep giving it gas, it's safe to say that you 
are getting spark.  did the car run pretty well before? if so, it's probably 
not bad plugs or timing.  if you had that problem, it would be gradual, not a 
sudden change in operation like this.  sounds to me like a fuel problem.

to check your injectors, remove your air cleaner cover and the air cleaner 
vent.  you can seperate the air cleaner from the hoses right there next to 
the right hand passenger valve cover. just turn it off but be careful not to 
crack it!  you will see your plugs and injectors right there on the valve 
side below the air induction system.  in case you don't know, the injectors 
are the ones that have the bolts on top of them with the big thick hoses on 
top.  pull the #3 injector (the one closest to you on the passenger side) 
out, and put it in a glass or cup.  jump your RPM relay to run the fuel pump 
and observe the gas pattern. does it drip out once every couple of seconds or 
less?  if so, then that's ok.  if it drips more frequently, like say, twice a 
second, either your injectors are old and don't seal well anymore or you are 
running too rich.  if the injectors seem to be pretty dry, then gently press 
down in the air metering plate in the center of the engine.  this should 
cause a heavy stream of gas to eject from the injectors as long as you push 
down the meter. if that happens, then that's all good.  

if you seem to be running too rich, you may want to get ahold of a K-Jetronic 
pressure testing device and check out your fuel pressures.  could be too high 
or too low. procedures for this test are found in section 2 of the workshop 
manual. if your pressure is way off, drop me a line because i am in a very 
similar situation right now!  

hopefully your problem is something simple and stupid!!

Andy

In a message dated 4/21/01 12:25:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net writes:


> Now for the new problem. 
> I decided I'd go ahead and get the car out yesterday but it wouldn't stay 
> running right after 
> starting. It'd run for about 5 seconds if I'm lucky and die. I was able to 
> keep the car running if
> I kept giving it gas but as soon as I'd let off the gas it would then die. 
> Where should I start? 
> Cold Start Valve? Thermo Time Switch? Maybe a vacuumm Line? 
> 
>                    Thanks in advance...............Obviously still 
> 



Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:35:20 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Restoration Update

Hey List,

     Sorry I haven't been able to send a post to the DML with an 
update...been kinda busy.  Ok, lets see here...update...update....oh 
yeah...I'm driving it!  Hows that for an update?  I insured the car last 
friday, got it registered this past monday, and all I really have to do is 
secure the front fascia (mounted on front of car...not screwed down) and 
install the front spoiler and air inlet grill, then just install those panels 
that cover the seat belts then it will be finished.  I am going to start to 
get the film developed soon, so everyone can see what I had to go through to 
get this car on the road.  All I can say is that its been a LONG 3 years to 
get this car on the road.  Now what I have to do is work on the cosmetic 
aspects of the car....dents....painting fascias...powdercoating 
rims....recover headliners and seats.  All this should be done by the 2002 De 
Lorean car show in Memphis.  Also while I am posting, a while back I had 
asked Ken Koncelik about having a separate section on De Loreans that have 
had complete frame off restorations.  He liked the idea and now I am in 
charge of it.  If you have personally restored your car (Dave Stragand...Mike 
Sturba...Steve Rubano....me....anymore??) and are interested in showing it 
off to the crowd in Memphis, then please e-mail me personally.  The only 
requirements for your car to be in this section is that you had to have 
separated the frame and the body to restore the car..thats all :).  The 
reason for this is to show everyone that a frame off restoration on these 
cars IS possible, and it might persuade someone in getting a car thats been 
neglected and to restore it themself.  If anyone has any questions please 
feel free to e-mail me.  Thanks!

Later,
Nick
1852 (has finally seen more than just my driveway!)
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:32:07 -0400
From: "Flash66" <flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com>
Subject: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info

A FRAM PH2870A is perfect

-Paul #16811
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 1:37 PM
Subject: [DML] Oil filter and cross reference info


> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The subject line of this post was modified from it's
original to be more descriptive of the content.]
>
>
> >I need to know what oil filters Fit The
> >car and if I could go to my local parts store for the louvre >struts?
>
> i believe that the oil filter from a vw rabbit will do the job and as for
> the sun-shade struts, i am not sure if they or original or not but the
ones
> that came on my car are from a lada.
>
> there is a cross reference chart for parts available however, it is not
> considered reliable.  you are best to buy your parts from a recognised
> delorean parts dealer.
>
> :)
> <=-mike-=>
> 11434
> www.nt.net/~mcutting
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 18:42:49 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Leather care?

Now that the archives are open I was looking up leather treatment.  Most
answers are Lexol.   One posting was from a recommendation by his
mechanic to use Vaseline Intensive Care lotion.  His complaint was that
it sunk in.  Isn't that what we want it to do?  Penetrate, soften,
lubricate.  Most leather treatments feature Aloe and other ingredients
found in hand lotions.  Why is this not a good idea?




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:10:08 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: my fuel problems

Andy, I'm not the expert on the fuel system. But I do know that if the pin as 
you call it, it's actually the control plunger isn't floating up and down 
your fuel problem will be rich. I think this is why up people people in the 
northern states need to put fuel stablizer in the tank before several months 
of storage. I drive my car in Texas almost year round. If your system 
pressure regulator is now adjusted properly along with the Air sensor plate 
your problem should be over.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:12:51 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Week

Jason, I would start at the Air flow sensor plate adjustment.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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