From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 515
Date: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:39 AM

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There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Oil filter and cross reference info

2. Fuse box wire colors
From: Jim <>

3. Re: Oil filter and cross reference info

4. Leather care answer
From: "Flash66" <>

5. This weekend's Social...
From: "Dan" <>

6. Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
From: "dmczr1" <>


8. Re: mixing cross-drilled brake rotors
From: "Walter" <>

9. Re: New problem: fuel baffle
From: "Walter" <>

10. Re: Welding my rusted frame

11. Re: Oil filter

12. Re: Delorean question; Preheater hose

13. Delorean leather seat covers
From: "Olson, David" <>

14. Should new owner be non-mechanic
From: Doug Hornsby <>

15. New Products (was: This weekend's Social)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

16. Re: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
From: "Hank Eskin" <>

17. oil filters
From: "Ryan Foster" <>

18. Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic
From: Christian Williams <>

19. Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
From: "DMC Joe" <>

20. Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 03:27:12 -0000
Subject: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info

Th subject of what oil and what filter can get pretty personal. Most 
oil companies want you to believe that their oil and their branded 
filter is best. The heart of the discussion boils down to synthetic vs 
generic. Most of the major brands are made from the same base stocks, 
the differnces are the additive packages and the bottle and of course 
the price. I would rather see someone use a cheaper oil and change it 
more often then the other way. If you calculate the price of the oil 
used for extended changes against "ordinary" oil you will see extended 
changes cost more! Over the road trucks run on extended oil schedules 
but they for the most part use oil analysis to determine oil and 
additive life. Under normal circumstances the additive package wears 
out before the oil starts to break down or the oil becomes overloaded 
with products of combustion. For most owners of Deloreans a change of 
once a year is probably less than 5,000 miles. Use a national brand of 
multi-weight oil and change the filter at every change. Synthetic oil 
is expensive overkill and unless you watch very carefuly someone could 
add something that is not compatable at a gas station! The same goes 
for DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. You lose all advantages if you mix DOT 
4 with DOT 5.(As if there are any?) If you are like most owners they 
try to do at least some maintaince like an oil change. If you figure 
the price of oil and a Purflux filter it is still cheaper if you do it 
yourself than going to a gas station. Never overfill. The best way to 
check oil is in the morning before you start the car on level ground. 
It should NEVER be over full or below add. Always dispose of used oil 
properly. With the new oil additives that are in modern oils you 
should try to avoid direct skin contact, some people are very 
sensitive to them. Wash immediatly if you do come in contact 
especially with used oil, that contains heavy metals.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List,
>     The Amsoil SDF42 oil  filter also has the anti-drain back valve. 
> are pretty expensive but worth it I think.  I also bought an amsoil 
> air filter and will probably put Amsoil oil in my car at the next 
oil change. 
>  I believe it is $9.50 per quart.(25,000 mile)  Does anyone on the 
list use 
> amsoil in there car?  Is it really safe to go 25,000 miles if you 
> changing your filter?
> later
> David


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:34:11 -0700
From: Jim <>
Subject: Fuse box wire colors

Fuse Box help.

    The previous owner never replaced the melted fuse box but put in line fuses in its place and never labeled them. Does any one have the wire color codes for the fuse box? I have no idea whats what!!

Thanks Jim


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:34:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info

David, I thought they were out of business. It's good products. The 72150 
Bosch filters due to the way I buy Bosch are only $5.95 with oil ring seal 
for the De Lorean Owners.
John Hervey]


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:39:59 -0400
From: "Flash66" <>
Subject: Leather care answer

[Take note of the IMHO part . . . this subscriber is expressing an opinion.
Please do not be offended by it.   - Moderator Mike S.]

Ok , I can't stand it any longer. I have been keeping up with the DeLorean
discussion group for a while now and only see posts about leather products
that don't work.  Lexol and ALL other leather snake oils are a fraud!( IMHO)
They only seem to help , but lets face it. After a couple of days these all
leave leather feeling the way it did before treatment.

The ONLY product that works, I will mention in a second. Rolls royce ,one of
the most elite
top dollar car companies recommend only this product to RESTORE leather to a
glove like state.
What is this you ask?? Wow, I can't belive I haven't seen any post's on such
a popular and proven product. LOL . You may all thank me after you use it.
go to  buy a bottle of rejuvinator oil from George and
you will praise him and his product (and me for telling you about it).
No I don't have any affiliation with them. I am a customer and I just know
for a fact it works and is the best , and I have Rolls Royce and my entire
Lotus newgroup of 600 members to back me up on this. If you need to touch up
your color and want a brand new(and I mean this with all my heart) looking
and feeling interior try there oil and dye's George will match any color and
it is a snap to use. Read the info on the site. When you get through using
all the products I swear you will have a new leather interior for under
$150.00  If you just want to treat, rejuvinate,and clean your leather and
make it brand new soft again even from that hard cardboard state, use the
rejuvinator oil . You'll be glad you did.
-Paul Catignani   De Lorean Vin # 16811


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 03:56:35 -0000
From: "Dan" <>
Subject: This weekend's Social...

Hello List,

First, I would like to thank everyone who came to the DeLorean Mid-
Atlantic Spring Social in Ringoes, NJ this past saturday. This was 
the first event I've ever hosted, and I had a great time. 

I would also like to thank the following people: Special thanks go to 
Rob and Debbie Grady who were generous enough to come down and work 
on some of the owner's cars. Big thanks to Dave Teitelbaum who went 
around adjusting the tortion bars on the cars that needed it. Thanks 
to Kevin and his friend who came down and played music in the 
background; to Scott Tice who kept good records on who needed what on 
their cars; to Ken, the owner of the garage, for letting us have our 
gathering there; to Ken Koncelik who helped me fix the adhesive on 
the NEW stainless steel door sill inlay pieces I got from PJ Grady 
that I screwed up when I put them in :P (they didn't stick well 
because I didn't clean the sills enough. I thought I had cleaned them 
well, but I can see now that the sill pieces have to almost be 
sterile!); and to everyone else who lended a helping hand when it was 

I would also like to apologize to the people we didn't get to who 
were in line to have their cars looked at by Rob. I'm sorry. The 
turnout was more than expected, and Rob is only one person. We also 
had some unexpected emergencies that popped up that if they didn't 
get fixed right then and there, the people wouldn't even have been 
able to get home! So, I'm sorry if you came and expected to get your 
car looked at weren't able to. I didn't even get my car looked at! 
And I had several things I wanted to get done to my car. So, I'm in 
that boat to. So, I apologize to myself :P. I hope at least you had a 
good time and met some new people and possibly even made some new 
friends. I know I did!

Can't wait till the next event... (Next sunday the 29th at Raceway 
Park in Old Bridge New Jersey) See ya there!!!



Message: 6
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:57:54 -0600
From: "dmczr1" <>
Subject: Re: Alternator and Coolant questions

    Your car sounds allot like the one I saw advertised (Oct 00) right after
I went all the way to Orlando, FL to get one.  I live in Colorado Springs,
so Albuquerque would've been a much shorter trip.  After I put the deposit
on '82 #10901, I came across an ad for a low mileage one in Albuquerque.
Although I paid $15K for mine, and it's in what I would call above average
condition, it sounds like you got an even better one.

I've been told by a couple of other DeLorean owners of a couple of good
Delorean mechanics in Colorado:

From Scott Hooper:  His name is Coy Carter, and he owns "Our Garage" in
Aurora, CO

Another owner in Colorado Springs says he takes his to someone in Boulder.

If it's something fairly simple, I could be talked into driving your way to
give you a hand with it.

Jack Janney

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Pike" <>
To: <>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Alternator and Coolant questions

> Hey list.. i've been gone for awhile, real busy!!!
> Time to get back to what matters though and get the
> Delorean ready for driving.. it sux have 70-80 degree
> weather here and having the D sit in the garage.
> After replacing my tankzilla, my alternator went out
> (no relation, just figures after I can see how far I
> can drive, I can't drive)...

[Moderator snip]

> Is the delorean alternator as standard to put in as a
> regular say GM alternator?
> On my grand-am the alternator just have a plug that
> goes in it, the Delorean has cables... and I heard
> something about having to hook a special wire to the
> dash board light...
> If I give this pep-boys guy (far from an expert, but
> he does change altnerators) an alternator for the D,
> will he be able to change it, or is it more involved?
> Secondly, anti-freeze leaks out of the front of my D
> from somewhere... any place I should look?  I dont see
> a radiator up there.. it doesnt over heat.
> Third - If you are a Delorean mechanic (DMCJoe???),
> and want a free expense paid trip to New Mexico, AND
> be paid towork on my car, if anything else goes wrong
> with it after the alternator and the anti-freeze leak,
> I am considering paying someone who knows the cars to
> come out and just fix everything that can go wrong.
> I cringe at the thought of shipping the car - its in
> perfect shape and my luck I'd get a trucker transport
> like the one that moved us here from North Carolina
> that busted our big screen TV because he was an idiot.
> Mike

[Moderator snip]


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 01:17:16 EDT

Ran across this add for a Delorean for sale in a paper about 30 miles from 
me, know nothing about the car or owner, just passing along the info as it 
was read in the paper. Make all inquires to the owners phone number.
1981 DeLorean Gullwing
Original Classic
56 K, A/C, Leather, Am/Fm Cass, Auto.
Great Shape
Phone # 541-476-7205 (Grants Pass, Or.)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 01:45:10 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: mixing cross-drilled brake rotors

I specifically want to know if the braking characteristics of having
cross-drilled rotors only on the front will interfere with the front/rear
brake proportioning.  If the front brakes worked better than designed, and
the rear brakes worked normal, then could that make the car more prone to

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 01:59:38 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: New problem: fuel baffle

If you are unable to find a new or used fuel baffle (the last I heard was
that the remaining stock was very expensive), consider making one from
scratch.  I know this may sound totally ridiculous, but consider cutting the
bottom out of a 1 gallon bottle of laundry bleach.  The #2 HDPE plastic is
gasoline resistant.  Most plastic gas tanks are made of this type of
plastic.  It would help considerably if you had an original baffle to use as
a pattern.  The basic shape is a wide shallow cup with a ring of small holes
close to the bottom.  The holes are just high enough to stop small amounts
of water and debris from making it into the baffle.  There is a hole on the
side where the fuel suction line enters through a grommet.  The baffle is
held down and held into shape with wire supports.  If you try this crack-pot
idea, I suggest adding another wire or piece of plastic to keep the suction
screen in place.  This could be made from a piece of the same doaner plastic
bottle and held in with some stainless steel rivits or screws.

The correct baffle is larger than the fuel pump hole in the tank, so you
have to bend it a bit to get it in.  My baffle has two pieces that snap
together -- the bottom and sides are separate.  In order to fit it through
the fuel pump hole, I had to pass the pieces through separately; although, I
have heard of some magicians fitting them through the hole pre-assembled.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:36:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Welding my rusted frame

Paul, I encountered the same problem on 02650.  As everyone said, the only 
way to do it safely is to remove the fuel tank. (Not too tough of a job).  
I'll offer this though.  The reason the frame rusted there is because by 
design, it was very difficult for the epoxy to flow to the inside area of the 
from crossmember.  This left the inside walls of the crossmember only 
partially coated (if at all).  Since is rusted from the top down 
(inside-out), what you have found with hammer is probably only part of what 
is actually rusting.  To be safe, I removed most of that lower plate, prepped 
and coated the inside of the frame and then welded in the new piece.  I have 
pictures of the entire repair process on my website. (Project Delorean)   Go there, go to the "My Delorean" 
section and check out the January and February entries in the "Frame" 
section.  Also feel free to email me if you have any questions.


VIN 2650  "ProjectDelorean"


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:04:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil filter

The correct oil filter is the PURFLUX from France. They are available from PJ 
Grady DeLorean Inc. 800-350-7429.

Mike Pack


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:28:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Delorean question; Preheater hose

    Based on my experience with the warm air pipes (preheater hose) on the 
DeLorean, those available from the DMC parts suppliers are superior in 
quality. The black hose is much softer and not as rigid as the original 
aluminum hose. 
    In addition, the black preheater hose will separate under the intense 
heat from the manifolds. 

    The only caveat about the aluminum preheater hose, is to add a small 3" 
rubber hose piece on the right hand aluminum coolant pipe near the preheater 
area. The aluminum preheater hose can rub the aluminum coolant pipe.

Mike Pack


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:56:30 -0500
From: "Olson, David" <>
Subject: Delorean leather seat covers

Check out the seat covers on Ebay!   Unique way to spell "Dealorean"!

What are new covers selling for these days?


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:50:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <>
Subject: Should new owner be non-mechanic

I am not an owner yet, but am looking at several cars.
 I wonder, should a non-mechanic buy one of these
things.  Am I buying a set of problems with 4 wheels. 
I do not intend to buy a project car.  It will be the
"weekend car".  Yes, I can learn to fix anything.  I
am a former woodworker and back when Noah was framing
the ark, we rebuilt a 57 chevy.  But I don't have a
garage set up for that and I'm not in the market for
projects (heck, I sold the Morgan sailboat) 
     So should I take up bowling or get a car in good
condition.  I am surrounded by foreign car dealers,
VOlvo, Porshe and all that, but I do not get the
impression that normal maintenance is rocket science. 
How crazy am I (don't talk to my wife before
answering)  Thanks!!


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:40:29 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: New Products (was: This weekend's Social)

First, I'd like to say how cool the new Stainless Steel door sill insert
looks.  I can also confirm that Dan put them on in haste and in doing
so, he created a good amount of rework to peel off the old adhesive and
replace them.  

In addition to the door sill plate, PJ Grady also had on display new SS
bumper letter inserts, and a VERY COOL set of small SS letters for the
wheel center caps [Man! What a great idea..  The guy that thought of
that must have been a real genius! :) ]

If anyone gets any of the SS "stick on" stuff (from any of the DMC
vendors) I can't stress enough that the surface needs to be SPOTLESS!
If you are like me, and use the silicone sprays to make the black parts
of the car shine, you MUST get all of that off before you try and stick
the SS on the car.  Use a soft toothbrush and some mild solvent (that is
safe on the plastic) and when the black is again dull, then it should be
OK to stick.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dan []
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:57 PM
Subject: [DML] This weekend's Social...

Hello List,

<SNIP> to Ken Koncelik who helped me fix the adhesive on 
the NEW stainless steel door sill inlay pieces I got from PJ Grady 
that I screwed up when I put them in :P (they didn't stick well 
because I didn't clean the sills enough. I thought I had cleaned them 
well, but I can see now that the sill pieces have to almost be 
sterile!); and to everyone else who lended a helping hand when it was 


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:12:06 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info

> IMHO we owners should purchase the parts we need for our cars from the
> venders who make a living...

I just would like to re-iterate this sentiment.  (Others have  stated this
before, but it bears repeating for the benefit of any "newer" DML members.)
While certain parts can be substituted, and we can endlessly debate the
topic, the "free" advice and support I've received from Rob Grady and DMC
Joe is well worth the additional cost of the parts they supply.  These guys
are friendly, helpful, and can spend ALOT of time on the phone explaining
problems/solutions in great detail, even when there is no "sales" going on.
For instance, I called Rob Grady with a quick question about his suspension
kit (which I plan to buy this week), and entirely unprompted from me, he
commented on my DML posts from last week about my fan speed 3 not working,
and made several suggestions, in great detail, for a relatively minor
problem of mine.  He remembered me, he remembered my few posts from last
week, and offered suggestions to help. He wasn't trying to sell me anything,
just offering help for a question I didn't ask.   Now that's a level
customer relationship management which I find invaluable and totally lacking
in most businesses today.   And because of it, these guys have all of my
Delorean parts business, including oil filters.

-Hank  #1619


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:18:28
From: "Ryan Foster" <>
Subject: oil filters

What about AC Delco brand PF13? Do the oil filters have to have a check 
valve? Ryan vin#-16301
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 11:47:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <>
Subject: Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic


I'm sure that I'm far less mechanically inclined than you, and I worried
about the same thing before I bought my car. As with any 20 year old car,
things are either beginning to wear out, are completely worn out, or have
already worn out and have been replaced. If you can find a car that has
been well taken car of (and by somebody who knows how) you should be

Luckily though, there's a strong DeLorean community. When I bought my car,
my first additional purchase were the workshop and parts manuals from PJ
Grady and a small set of tools. Using them and using the DML's
archives, I've been able to fix most everything that's gone wrong so far.
And let me stress how not mechanically inclined I am.

I figure that I should technically be able to fix most general car
problems just as others can. But I wouldn't be able to do it without the
knowledge of those who came across the same problem before me. That's
where the DML really saves me. So my advice is to go ahead and do it. I
did it, and my DeLorean is my daily driver.


On Mon, 23 Apr 2001, Doug Hornsby wrote:

> I am not an owner yet, but am looking at several cars.
>  I wonder, should a non-mechanic buy one of these
> things.  

[Moderator Snip]


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:48:54 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Alternator and Coolant questions


Your question was:
... I talked to someone and they
told me that the lightbulb in the dash for the
battery, if it burns out, the actual voltage gauge
won't work on the dash.. is this true?

The burnt out lamp will not cause a problem with the dash gauge. However; in early Ducelliar equipped DeLorean's that have been upgraded to a one wire field/warning light system, the alternator will not charge if the battery warning lamp is burnt out or missing. 

Alternator replacement is similar as with other cars excerpt for a minor wiring modification. 

Is the delorean alternator as standard to put in as a
regular say GM alternator?


Secondly, anti-freeze leaks out of the front of my D
from somewhere... any place I should look?  I dont see
a radiator up there.. it doesnt over heat.

The radiator is located just ahead of the cooling fans. If you have an original plastic radiator the leak is from one of three places. The radiator cap, side tank, or  a radiator inlet or outlet hose. 

Contact me directly for information on the wiring of a non-Ducelliar alternator.


"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>
[Very long quotation snipped by moderator]


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:14:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic

I guess it depends...if you have the money to buy a Delorean with less
problems than a "project" one, then go for it.  But even if you
end up with one that needs things fixed (and even the best one will
after awhile), then I don't think you need to be afraid about being
a non-mechanic.  I'm nothing close to a mechanic, so I let a local
mechanic who has been working on DeLoreans since day one handle
all my major work (and I essentially bought a "project D").  So 
I guess that's the major thing you may want to find out: if there is 
a place nearby you that handles (or can handle) a DeLorean, and 
whether or not you trust them.  (Of course, if you can afford it you
can always ship the car to one of the DeLorean service centers.)

Also from my experience, it won't hurt if you REALLY LOVE the
DeLorean and want to take care of it by fixing problems that will
pop up here and there over time.  In my opinion, if what you're looking
for is a high performance sports car that will run like a dream and
never give you trouble, don't get a DeLorean.  But if you are looking
for one of the most unique and interesting classic cars of all time,
then by all means get one.  :)

My two cents,

(Still working on my D) 


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