From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 516
Date: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:37 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Leather care answer
From: Les Huckins <>

2. Re: This weekend's Social...

3. Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic

4. Q and A's
From: "Scott Mueller" <>

5. Re: fuel baffle, inserting

6. Re: Welding my rusted frame
From: "Flash66" <>

7. Re: mixing cross-drilled brake rotors
From: Mark Noeltner <>

8. Tach and voltmeter needle jump
From: Mark Noeltner <>

9. Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
From: Michael Pike <>

10. Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic
From: "Payne" <>

11. Re: Fuse box wire colors

12. Car For Sale southern WI
From: "David Swingle" <>

13. Mid Atlantic Club Social

14. Re: Delorean Advice
From: "DMC Joe" <>

15. clutch

16. ASI Radio
From: "Kevin Abato" <>

17. Fixing your headliners
From: "Kevin Abato" <>

18. Insurance for DeLorean in NJ
From: "FARIS ASMAR" <>

19. Re: Mid Atlantic Club Social

20. Re: Tach and voltmeter needle jump
From: Josh Weader <>

21. Re: Tach and voltmeter needle jump

22. Dash Removal
From: Michael Pike <>

23. Car Show Opportunity
From: Henry Breer <>

24. Tires (again, sorry)

25. fuel problem update

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 12:48:06 -0700
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Re: Leather care answer

Paul, what a great lead, I'd heard that Lexol dried out leather, was
looking for something else, was ready to try Vaseline Intensive Care
Lotion but worried about a perfume smell.  This looks to be just what
I've been searching for.> 

Just contacted George and they have a club special, $50 for a quart of
clener and a quart of restorer (not each, just $50.).  Regular price is
$40 for 16oz of each.

If it's good enough for Rolls and Lotus, probably good enough for me.

Thanks again, Paul, but why did you wait so long, the leather treatment
question has come up many times recently.

Flash66 wrote...
> Ok , I can't stand it any longer. I have been keeping up with the DeLorean
> discussion group for a while now and only see posts about leather products
> that don't work.


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:08:09 -0000
Subject: Re: This weekend's Social...

No, Dan... thank YOU!

you freakin rock, bro...  great job putting it all together...
you're a pro - except at cleaning door sills. :)  It was great to see 
all the folks from the fall tour, marc, david, scott & cathy, rob & 
debbie, deluca... etc. 

with a little luck, and a maxed out credit card, i'll see y'all this 

06976 (soon to be returned from pj grady, better, stronger, faster)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dan" <Danrc30_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello List,
> First, I would like to thank everyone who came to the DeLorean Mid-
> Atlantic Spring Social in Ringoes, NJ this past saturday. This was 
> the first event I've ever hosted, and I had a great time. 
[Moderator snip]


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:38:28 -0000
Subject: Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic

Be realistic in your expectations. If you spend more for a car 
generally it was better taken care of and you should have less trouble 
than a cheaper car in worse shape. If you don't intend to do work on 
the car yourself then be prepared to either find friends to help or be 
able to pay. No matter what condition you buy the car in it is still a 
20 year old car with "repair history". Before you buy it call the 
nearest Delorean vender and see if they have any records on the car. 
They can approximate what you will need if they know the car. I 
believe that the owner of ANY car should have some knowledge of it but 
as you know most people are lucky to remember to change the oil! These 
are the people on the side of the road surprised that their car "let 
them down". I encourage all owners to get to know their car within the 
limits of their abilities. This list will help you through most simple 
problems but there is an underlying assumption that you can understand 
the advice and have some tools and the ablility to use them. The 
Delorean in some respects is not a "simple" car but there are many 
things that even a "novice" can do. Join a local Delorean club and get 
to know other owners, many times they might know the car you are 
looking at or maybe help you find one and look it over for you. Good 
Luck in your seach and be patient, don't buy the first one you see!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am not an owner yet, but am looking at several cars.
>  I wonder, should a non-mechanic buy one of these
> things.

[Moderator snip]


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:47:47 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <>
Subject: Q and A's

DMC Joe and others,

Thanks for replying to the many questions that come your way.

I like the replies (solutions) that include the original question (snipped
if needed).

I can not always remember what the original question was.

Like my Professors always said, Show Your Work or Restate the Problem along
with your answer.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:32:31 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel baffle, inserting

In a message dated 4/23/01 1:31:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 

<< In order to fit it through the fuel pump hole, I had to pass the pieces 
through separately; although, I have heard of some magicians fitting them 
through the hole pre-assembled.
Only semi-assembled.  You can thread the "frying pan handle" of the big piece 
partly thru the appropriate slot in the base pan, like it shows in the 
service bulletins, but it would be impossible to insert it fully assembled. 
The top piece flexes horizontally and the bottom piece flexes vertically, so 
they would pop apart. (If anybody ever makes repros... try an oval shape!)  
Don't over squeeze it either. It's pretty flexible but not indestructible. 
Then slip the two into mating position and cram down on them until it snaps 
For my money... I'd track one down from a parts car, if none of the vendors 
can supply one.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:14:37 -0400
From: "Flash66" <>
Subject: Re: Welding my rusted frame

Thanks So much steve. Actually your website is what inspired me to check my
frame out.
If I may say, you did a fantastic job. I only hope mine turns out as good. I
am currently in the process of removing my tank. Im at a stopping point as
the fuel lines will not seperate(seized) and I twisted one of the metal
lines at the junction. It will need replacing. I hope when I get the tank
out, the routing of the metal line will not be to hard to reroute and
replace. Thanks for your hard work on your site! The pictures were of great
help !! Good luck on finishing your "D"

-Paul Catignani #16811

.  I have
> pictures of the entire repair process on my website. (Project Delorean)
>   Go there, go to the "My Delorean"
> section and check out the January and February entries in the "Frame"
> section.  Also feel free to email me if you have any questions.
> Steve
> VIN 2650  "ProjectDelorean"


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:22:50 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <>
Subject: Re: mixing cross-drilled brake rotors

I won't claim to be a brake system engineer or anything, but here is what
I've picked up during my membership in the SCCA and spending some time
hanging around the track and helping to crew a car:

You might get more oversteer if the cross-drilling does increase the
performance of the front brakes, but only under extreme circumstances. I
doubt that you'll notice much of a difference in normal street driving,
assuming that you had very good brakes on the car before. If you do find
that the brake feel isn't quite what you want you can adjust it by changing
to different pads. You WILL notice quite a bit of difference in the brakes
if it's been a while since you last did a brake job on the car, and the
natural tendency is to credit that change to the drilled rotors. But, in
back to back tests that I have seen, the difference between cross-drilled
rotors and a set of new non-drilled rotors was very slight under normal

Usually you will only get INCREASED braking force from cross-drilled brakes
under extreme heat conditions when the cross drilling will allow the rotors
to cool quicker. That was the whole idea behind this; to cool the brakes
faster on the track. The street guys picked it up because the drilled
rotors look cool. But on the street you don't normally get the high heat
situations that you do on the track. You can actually decrease braking
force slightly by having reduced the swept area by drilling holes.

Anyway, I would say to put them on if you like them. Try it, then adjust
the brakes using different pad compounds on the front vs. the rear to fine
tune it.

Mark N

At 01:45 AM 4/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
>I specifically want to know if the braking characteristics of having
>cross-drilled rotors only on the front will interfere with the front/rear
>brake proportioning.  If the front brakes worked better than designed, and
>the rear brakes worked normal, then could that make the car more prone to
>Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:33:48 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <>
Subject: Tach and voltmeter needle jump

I'm hoping for a few suggestions for something that happened over the weekend.

My wife and I were on our way to a local event on Sunday morning when
suddenly the tachometer needle started jumping, then settle in about 1200
RPM too high. It continued to occasionally jump, then either go back to
normal, or back up to the same 1200 high a number of times as we drove.

Around the same time, but NOT at exactly the same time, the voltmeter
needle jumped a little bit. Unlike the tach it stayed at the correct level
most of the time, then would suddenly swing wildly over a 6 or 7 volt range
for a moment.

The two gauges did not seem to be doing this at the same time. The motor
was running very smoothly. And all the other gauges stayed rock steady.

The only common denominator I see on the wiring diagram is that they both
have the same ground and both get power from fuse #5. But so do all the
other gauges and instrument panel idiot lights and all of them were normal.

Any ideas of what to look at? I've already cleaned #5 fuse just in case and
it looked fine with no signs of overheating.




Message: 9
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:34:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <>
Subject: Re: Alternator and Coolant questions

Thanks DMCJoe...

Well [Explative deleted by moderator] - I have the original Dulciar (sp)
alternator, and my battery light does not come on when
I turn the ignition... does this mean maybe I dont
need an alternator and just need a light?

If so, is the light easy to replace?  I've taken
dshboards off of cars while installing stereos and
stuff, and I NEVER (repeat NEVER) get them back on
right, and they rattle afterwars.... so I hope I dont
have to go through that.  I would prefer to just buy
the lamp light though, because thats a lot cheaper and
money is tight right now.

I've also been told to replace the thing anyhow
because one day I will be driving and it will leave me
stranded.. if its NOT a big deal to put a PJ or Delco
alternator in, and make it work with my set up, I
wouldnt mind doing that... I dont care about the
battery light, because I can read the gauge.

I just want to drive it again.... I'm getting tired of
pretending my Bronco is a Delorean :)  I'm half
tempted to go buy a huge battery, and drive the car,
and charge the battery afterwards :).

[Incredibly long quote deleted by moderator]


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:26:28 -0700
From: "Payne" <>
Subject: Re: Should new owner be non-mechanic

If you really love DeLoreans, I would totally recommend realizing your
dream.  I'm only eighteen, but I recently bought mine for a daily driver.
Everyone said I was in over my head, but I've wanted one since I was a small
boy.   Granted, I'm fairly inept and most things I repair have a way of
breaking/catching fire, but I'm learning a lot.  I choose one with slightly
more mileage (60,000) because I knew many things had already been replaced
and the fuel system was in good condition.  I've made it a point to learn as
much as I can because I want to be able to fix anything that might go wrong.
It's held up great for a 20 year old car.

If you do decide to get one, do a good inspection.  Get a repair manual and
make sure you have the necessary tools for basic repair and maintenance.
And of course, the DML is probably the best resource a DeLorean owner can

These really are great cars.  I love mine every day, It's the best purchase
I've ever made.

proud owner of #2975


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 21:58:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuse box wire colors

Jim, The wiring diagram is on my web site, but if it's really tangled and you can't tell #1 from # 8. Call me for how you would want it laid out or I can walk you thru it.
John Hervey


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:57:45 -0500
From: "David Swingle" <>
Subject: Car For Sale southern WI

I just re-listed a car that's been posted for quite a while with a wrong
phone number and no email address. It's now the top ad at . This car is a 10,500 mile
one-owner car. It needs headliners, a clutch slave, and possibly a wheel
bearing (I'm suspicious that this may be a wrong diagnosis due to the low
mileage) otherwise it's in as-new condition. The seller is planning on
replacing these parts shortly, but if you act fast you may save a few bucks
and the parts will come with the car.

The car is located in Southern Wisconsin, and won the DOA concours (in
1984!). Still with the same owner, a great car for $18,000. The seller does
not have email access, the phone number is in the ad.

Dave Swingle


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 22:17:06 EDT
Subject: Mid Atlantic Club Social

  I must too thank everyone who gave their time and effort to make this the 
best Mid Atlantic Social yet.  I believe last count was around 30 cars!  Also 
many thanks to those traveling great distances in their DeLoreans to attend, 
such as those from Virginia, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland and 
others states.  Also Ken Koncelik who flew in from Ohio!  Also thank you Rob 
and Debby Grady.  You are both always willing to give your time to help so 
many owners everywhere.  Its people like you and the other vendors, who are 
always willing to help out the DeLorean community, that make the Delorean an 
even more enjoyable car to own than it already is.  It was great to meet so 
many new people.  Thank you Dan for all your work, and all the other officers 
of DeLorean Mid Atlantic.  Again my thanks to all those that attended and I 
hope everyone had as much fun as I did.  It was definately a memorable 
occasion.  Can't wait till next year :-)  See you in Ireland!

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:09:51 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Delorean Advice


You're correct about wasting money on an engine rebuild. DeLorean engines should run at least 100K (not maintained) and 250K plus (maintained).

When replacing the engine and transmission replace the clutch slave cylinder and definitely replace the plastic clutch line with the stainless steel up-grade. Yes; it would be easier to change the water pump and hoses with the engine removed but not much more difficult with the engine installed.


"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 12:48 PM
  Subject: [DML] Delorean Advice

  I am restoring a delorean (vin 2349)that I have had about 6 months.I 
  plan on using it as a daily driver.I have the engine and trans. out 
  of the car.I had the engine rebuilt which was probally a waste of 
  money after see the inside.(has about 40,000 miles)

[Quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 04:56:14 -0000
Subject: clutch

The clutch is very hard to push down on my dmc-12, anyone know
of a way to fix it, my knee is killing me !!! :-)
Thanks In Advance


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:54:05 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <>
Subject: ASI Radio

I am thinking about selling my ASI radio (fully functional) from my 83 DMC.  Is anyone looking to buy one?

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 10:08:25 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <>
Subject: Fixing your headliners

My center headliner has gotten really bad, and I want to attempt to fix it myself.  I have looked through the shop manual, and I found how to remove them, but I am not totally clear on the process outlined.

Can I just lift off the door seals or is there an adhesive that holds the seals to the frame as well as to the headliners?  If so, how should I go about removing this, and then what do I use again later to re-attach it all?

Any info you can give me would help greatly!  I would like to try and do this over the weekend if time and materials permit me to do so!  I will take some digital pictures of my progress and post them later on.


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 10:44:08 -0400
From: "FARIS ASMAR" <>
Subject: Insurance for DeLorean in NJ

Hello List,
First and foremost i'd like to thank all of the DeLorean techies out there 
who contribute their in-depth knowledge to this fine list. After joining the 
DML, I felt very comfortable in considering the purchase of a DeLorean 
(still looking....). The DML by far is an excellent source DeLorean 
knowledge (a practical encyclopedia) for the average owner. Way to go 

Before actually getting my hands on DeLorean, I decided to check with my 
current insurance company (GE Colonial Penn), who bluntly said to me that 
they cannot insure a DeLorean. The same goes for a handful of others. I have 
been unsuccessful in finding an insurance company that can insure my 
prospectively owned DeLorean in NJ. However, I noticed the following posting 
on the DML:

Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:41:26 EST
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Insurance for the DeLorean
I have just decided to place my DeLorean under the catagory of show car. It 
is in excellent condition.  I will be paying close to $280 a year, but can 
only drive it 2500 miles a year.  I also live in NJ, and before I changed 
insurance, I was using my D as a daily driver fully covered for about 
$1000.00 a year.  New Jersey Manufacturer

Does anybody know of ANY insurance companies that insure DeLoreans in New 
Jersey? The gentleman who made the post above did exactly what I wish to do. 
I'd like to have show car status on my DeLorean as well. 2500 miles is more 
than enough to be driven per year; And for $280 per year, one can't go 
wrong. Thanks in advance.

Fan of the finest motor car ever.....the DeLorean

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 14:59:37 -0000
Subject: Re: Mid Atlantic Club Social

As one of the newest members of the club, this was my first Delorean 
social I have ever been too. It was awesome, very educational and was 
a blast to finally put a face to all the names I knew from the DML. 
Dan pulled it off and it all came together flawlessly. I also want to 
thank Mike Deluca for giving me my first ride in a running D ever! 
You see, when I bought my D 2.5 years ago it was a basket case and 
not running (my ultimate project). Thanks again Mike!

As I went around meeting people and introducing myself to people I 
got the "Oh, Steve Rubano!" or "The famous Steve Rubano?" response, 
lol. I guess I've made quite an impression on this list? ;).

Anyway, thanks to all the people who helped put this together and to 
Dan for heading it all and also a big thanks to the Grady's for 
attending and helping everyone out. I know I learned allot during the 
car inspection. One thing I learned was that I was missing a radiator 
duct on my car, which I didn't even know was missing! :)

Steve Rubano

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Dmc3360_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Well,
>   I must too thank everyone who gave their time and effort to make 
this the 
> best Mid Atlantic Social yet.  
It was great to meet so many new people.  Thank you Dan for all your 
work, and all the other officers 
> of DeLorean Mid Atlantic.  Again my thanks to all those that 
attended and I 
> hope everyone had as much fun as I did.  
> Gary Gore
> Activities Director
> DeLorean Mid Atlantic
> VIN 3360
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 11:04:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Josh Weader <>
Subject: Re: Tach and voltmeter needle jump

> suddenly the tachometer needle started jumping, then settle in about 1200
> RPM too high. It continued to occasionally jump, then either go back to

The one time I saw something like this happen, I had a loose battery
connection.  I re-tightened the connection, and everything went back to

vin #5553


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:01:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Tach and voltmeter needle jump

In general many intermittant problems like this can be cured by 
cleaning connections. A very important ground connection is alongside 
the left front wheel on the frame. It is very easy to get at if you 
first take the wheel off. Remove all of the wires,(there are several), 
and clean the frame and all of the wires. This may cure your problem 
but if not at least you know that connection is clean!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I'm hoping for a few suggestions for something that happened over 
the weekend.
> My wife and I were on our way to a local event on Sunday morning 
> suddenly the tachometer needle started jumping, then settle in about 
> RPM too high. It continued to occasionally jump, then either go back 


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:54:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <>
Subject: Dash Removal

I have to change my battery light bulb in my dash...

Does anyone know how to remove the dash so I can get
to this thing, or is there an easy way to change it?

And what kind of bulb goes in it?

I'm pretty sure the light is bad because when I turn
the ignition on, the battery light does NOT come on,
and its my understanding that it should.


Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:55:41 -0700
From: Henry Breer <>
Subject: Car Show Opportunity

Southern California Owners,

The City of Brea is hosting a series of car shows in June.  Each weekend
is devoted to a different theme (i.e.. Trucks & SUV's on June 3rd,
Sports compacts & PT Cruisers on June 10th, Hot Rods, Harleys, &
Mustangs on June 24th) They have invited DeLorean owners to participate
in their June 17th (Father's Day) show: Classic Cars & Sports Cars.

The organizers would consider making the DeLorean the Featured Marque of
the show.  BUT, they need to decide in their next committee meeting on
May 1st.  And in order for them to consider us, we need to have a firm
commitment from at least 20 cars to attend. This sounds like a great way
to celebrate the 20th anniversary of our cars.

There is more information on their website

The show is by pre-registration only ($25.00 by May 15th, $35.00 by June
1st) and is limited to 400 cars. The registration form is on the

If you are interested and can commit to that date, please let us know

Hank & Mimi Breer
VIN 1141
hbreer (at) or
mbreer (at) or


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 17:03:17 -0000
Subject: Tires (again, sorry)

Ok,Ok...Yes I know that this has come up a few times already. I have 
searched the archives and found a few posts regarding what I am about 
to ask but not much to go on. I am about to buy a set of new tires. I 
know that everyone here recommends the Yoko AVS tires but every time 
I call a tire dealership their first response is "Are you dead set on 
getting Yoko's?" and then they proceed to tell me other brands that 
would be better such as the Goodrich CompTA (this model does not come 
in both sizes for the D) and the BFG Radial TA (which have both 
sizes). Now before anyone says "Oh well they are only trying to sell 
you the BFG's because they don't carry the Yoko's and want to make a 
sale", not true. And before anyone else says "they know nothing about 
the D, not true again. The tire places I have called carried them all 
and in fact the Yoko's were more money that the BFG's and a few of 
them have actually worked on them and are familiar with the car and 
what their capabilities are. One place actually surprised me, as soon 
as I told him I needed two different size tires and gave him the tire 
sizes his next question was "Is this by any chance for a 
Delorean?"  :-) 

Here's my question....Is anyone driving on the BF Goodrich Radial 
TA's? If are they? Can anyone on this list give a valid 
comparison such as they drove on both the Yoko's and the BFG's? I 
don't want to sound rude or anything but anyone posting saying "I 
have them on my Vette or Acura and they work great" I am not 
interested (that's what I have read in most of the past post's). I 
would like to get results from owners who have or are currently 
driving on these tires and can compare them.

I should also add (if it makes a difference) this will not be a daily 
driver D, just a "take it out on the weekends and shows" Delorean. I 
do plan on taking it on long rides if called for (like bringing it to 
another Delorean get together ;-))

Again, I am sorry for bringing this post up again but I am about to 
plunk down allot of money for tires and want to make sure I have 
other options before being locked into one specific brand.


Steve Rubano


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 13:03:34 EDT
Subject: fuel problem update

Hello All,

today i jacked up my car to check out the fuel accumulator and the hoses 
around it.  this is the first time i have laid eyes on it, in fact.  i'm very 
paranoid about getting under a car like that, but i did it just to satisfy 
curiosity.  anyway, i went under to see which hose exactly was replaced by 
the Amoco i went to when i discovered a massive fuel leak under my car when 
all of my troubles began.  turns out that it was the hose that's on the 
rear-end of the car.  a short hose about 4 or 5 inches long that looks like 
it loops right back into the accumulator.  what does this hose do?  and also, 
does this hose being ruptured the same day my car wouldn't start point to 
anything important?  i'm not sure how it burst.  it could have been leaky 
before and only started gushing while trying to start the car, or maybe it 
burst from high pressure.  i can see it now and it's very clean, like it is 
still brand new, so i assume it is not leaking at all anymore.  new clamps on 
it too.  i know my fuel accumulator is still doing it's job because i have 
very stable rest pressure within specs (in fact it's the only pressure i have 
that is in specs!)

i am just waiting for some parts from Grady and i will reassemble my fuel 
system.  yesterday i used Tri-Flow to lubricate the piston in the distributer 
and the other moving parts in the air meter system, as well as the pin in the 
primary pressure regulator, so when i get my new O-ring, that will be all 
ready to go again.  when i get it all back together, i will test pressures 
and see if i am within specs again, for the first time in nearly 2 months!  
and if i'm not..... well then i'm going to ship my whole fuel system to Grady 
for an evaluation.

thanks for the accumulator help though, whoever responds.

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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