From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 530
Date: Saturday, May 05, 2001 1:45 AM

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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Notice to Sydney DeLorean fans
From: "Rick Haslewood" <delorean_at_dml_zipworld.com.au>

2. Driver side front torsion bar hinge needed
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

3. Fault Scenaria #2
From: "Gregory M Scalia" <gmscalia_at_dml_gil.com.au>

4. Re: fuel pump updated
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: fuel pump
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Remote starters
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Fault Scenario #1
From: "Gregory M Scalia" <gmscalia_at_dml_gil.com.au>

8. RE: clonking noise
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

9. Re: Installing new fronnt springs & Re. Front end recall kits
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: A problem!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: Remote starters
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

12. Re: clonking noise
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

13. Re: A problem!
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

14. Re: Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

15. Re: Remote starters
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

16. RE: Remote starters
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

17. Re: Fault Scenario #1
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: fuel pump
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

19. Re: A problem! Throwout bearing?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

20. Re: Fault Scenaria #2
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

21. Re: Re: Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

22. Re: A problem! Throwout bearing?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

23. Graffiti Night in Modesto, CA
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

24. LAST CALL - EUROFEST 2001
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: fuel pump
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:46:54 +1000
From: "Rick Haslewood" <delorean_at_dml_zipworld.com.au>
Subject: Notice to Sydney DeLorean fans

Just thought I'd let everyone (well, anyone that happens to be in Sydney, Australia) know that our DeLorean will be on display at a Ford Show 'N Shine day at Silverwater this Sunday, 6th May. It's on at Silverwater Park and the show opens at 9am.

The best thing about the show is our DeLorean is allowed in for free! I met a guy from the '72-'78 Ford V8 Club at another car show earlier this year, and he invited us to attend the Silverwater show with the DeLorean as a "special interest" vehicle. Funny thing is I also own a '73 Ford Falcon GT (an Aussie car), but when I told him about that he didn't seem quite as interested in it as he was in the DeLorean :-)

Cheers,
Rick
www.deloreanaustralia.com 




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 07:51:07 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Driver side front torsion bar hinge needed


Some of you may have seen the photo of  my hinge here:
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/torsion1.JPG

I'm looking for a replacement hinge.  If you have one available in good
condition you would like to sell, please email me privately at
heskin(at)bellatlantic.net.

Thanks,

-Hank  #1619






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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 21:58:15 +1000
From: "Gregory M Scalia" <gmscalia_at_dml_gil.com.au>
Subject: Fault Scenaria #2

Fans cut out after about 10 minutes of running,...I suspect that this is the
thermal trip in series with the fans.
Is this so?  Where is this thermal trip and what does it look like?




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 08:30:56 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump updated

Christian,

I suggest starting at fuse #7 and finding out what is going on with it since
the fuel pump is supposed to be getting power through it.  Besides, this
mystery is something you should figure out in the comfort of your garage
rather than by the side of the road later on.  My suspicion is that the
connection inside the fuse block was defective, so someone cut the wires
loose from the block and used a pig-tail fuse holder in its place.
Disconnect the battery, carefully unsnap the fuse block and look under it.
See if any wires are still going to fuse #7.  If not, then look nearby for a
separate fuse holder spliced onto the original wires.

Also check the obvious such as a tripped inertia switch and bad grounds.
These are things that are covered pretty thoroughly in the archives.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 07:54:33 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump

Christian,

Check to see if you have 12 v at the brown wire at the RPM relay, if not fuse #7 is blown. Melt down of the number 7 fuse is extremely common and is corrected with the installation of an in-line fuse. You will need to find that added fuse holder which should be located in the area of the fuse block.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Christian Williams 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 1:48 AM
  Subject: [DML] fuel pump


  This morning on the way to work, the engine stalled and would not start
  again. Last night I put new brake pads on the car all around. Afterward I
  took the car for a spin, so I don't think that the fuel pump failure is
  related to the brake work I did last night.

  When turning the key to the "on" position, I do not hear the 2-3 seconds
  of buzzing that the fuel pump usually makes. I read through the archives
  and figured out where to start looking. Here's what I found:

  1. Jumpering the brown and and purple wires on the RPM relay did not start
  the fuel pump.

  2. #1 fuse is not blown

  3. #7 fuse is missing. I remember noticing that it was missing a week or
  two ago. I don't believe it's ever been there. How could the fuel pump run
  without it? Tried putting a fuse in for #7 - nothing different.

  4. Using a volt meter on the main harness where the fuel pump connects
  yeilded no signal.

  Does it sound like there's an electrical problem between the RPM relay and
  the fuel pump? Is there any way to directly test the fuel pump - perhaps
  hooking some sort of power source directly to the pump??

  Any ideas are more than welcome. This is my daily driver car.

  -Christian
  -3452



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 08:09:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Remote starters

Jeff,

I know of no such feature on remote starters for manual transmissions.
On my "D" I have the start inhibit connected across the parking brake switch, therefore if the parking brake is released the car will not start.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jeff 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 3:26 PM
  Subject: [DML] Remote starters


  My question is, has anyone come across a security system that has the 
  proper sensors to disengage the starter if left in gear? 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 21:56:20 +1000
From: "Gregory M Scalia" <gmscalia_at_dml_gil.com.au>
Subject: Fault Scenario #1

Problem #1
Car starts cold fine
Car drives fine
Car starts hot fine
Leave car for 30-120 minutes stopped and semi cooled, car takes about 10
minutes of cranking to start (if the battery doesnt die first).  Sounds a
bit like it is flooded./  Replaced the injectors as it was suggested that
these were leaking during the cool down phase...this has helped very little.
Car will start easily several hours later when completely cold

Any thoughts?





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 07:02:43 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: clonking noise

Check and make sure that the shocks are tight.  Once, one of my sway bar
bushings fell out and the front end clunked.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk



Hello,

I have a clonking noise coming from the front when I go over bumps or
potholes in the road.
I thought this may be the lower ball joint so I had it replaced
yesterday,but the noise is still there!
Any idea's.
The noise comes from the drivers side,also my tyre has gone bald on
the outside edge only on this wheel(thats why I persumed It was ball
joint.

Many Thanks

Paul.UK.Vin 741





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 08:33:55 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Installing new fronnt springs & Re. Front end recall kits

James,

The front end recall kit is part#109269 priced at $143.41 and available from all of the established DeLorean parts vendors.

The DeLorean front springs are difficult to remove and require a particular type spring compressor that will fit the cramped quarters. You would be better off to take your DeLorean to a suspension repair facility that is properly equipped to do the job. Improper removal of the DeLorean spring can cause the spring to pop out of it's mounting with lethal force.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 4:58 AM
  Subject: [DML] Installing new fronnt springs & Re. Front end recall kits



  Where can I get these recall kits from, does anyone know the part 
  numbers?, are they fairly easy to fit?, 

  does anyone have any advice on installing the front 
  springs,............

  Regards


  James RG
  England








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 08:47:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: A problem!

Les,

You probably have a defective clutch throwout bearing. In most cases the noise will not affect clutch operation. If the noise gets louder in the future you will need to replace the bearing. When you do you should probably do a complete clutch overhaul procedure.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Les Huckins 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:57 PM
  Subject: [DML] A problem!


  Having solved all the problems the car came with I thought I was out of
  the fog for a while.  Today I have a noise while in neutral.  Goes away
  when the clutch pedal is depressed.  In a Corvair that would be a bad
  flywheel, what is it in the D?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 13:01:04 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: Remote starters

I actually just bought one of the AutoCommand remote start modules.  
I bought one designed for an Auto tranny, and has door lock controls 
and a basic alarm built right in.  It also has several features in 
which it can monitor voltage, idle, lights, and many more things I 
cannot remember.  Now, my car is a 5-speed.  AutoCommand will void 
the warranty if installed in a manual, but I dont care.  I am first 
going to hook it up for the lock controlls.  Then I am going to put 
some limit switches inside the shifter, so the AutoCommand knows when 
it is in neutral.  (Unless on a hill, I always park using the parking 
brake and leaving it in neutral) I know the D's electrical system 
pretty well, which is why I'm taking on such a complex project.  But 
for general purpose, I also agree that a remote starter serves no 
usefull purpose in summertime DeLorean driving.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960






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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 13:42:44 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: clonking noise

Check the upper and lower mountings for the shocks. Also inspect the 
sway bar bushings. You could also have a bad shock. Ball joints don't 
usually make noise, they just add alot of play into the steering and 
suspension till they fail and the wheel tucks under! Another source of 
noise in the front end is the spring. It moves a little in the socket 
so a little spray lubricant on the upper and lower ends of the spring 
could make a difference. If your tire has worn out irregularly you 
might need a 4 wheel alighnment which is reccomended after you replace 
 a major part in the suspension like a ball joint.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., paulheymeson_at_dml_t... wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I have a clonking noise coming from the front when I go over bumps 
or 
> potholes in the road.
> I thought this may be the lower ball joint so I had it replaced 
> yesterday,but the noise is still there!
> Any idea's.
> The noise comes from the drivers side,also my tyre has gone bald on 
> the outside edge only on this wheel(thats why I persumed It was ball 
> joint.
> 
> Many Thanks
> 
> Paul.UK.Vin 741




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 13:50:59 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: A problem!

A noise that happens on a manual transmission car in neutral that goes 
away when you step on the clutch is related to the manual trans. When 
you step on the clutch you disengage the trans from the motor and the 
input shaft stops turning. If it is a bad input bearing it stops 
making noise when it stops turning. Fist thing to do is to make sure 
that the trans is full with the correct oil. You might try changing it 
first but if the noise is noticeable you are probably looking at 
pulling the trans and clutch. Another possability is something out of 
adjustment in the shifter mechanism. If it shifts well that is a dim 
possability.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Having solved all the problems the car came with I thought I was out 
of
> the fog for a while.  Today I have a noise while in neutral.  Goes 
away
> when the clutch pedal is depressed.  In a Corvair that would be a 
bad
> flywheel, what is it in the D?




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:50:00 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]




Sounds very familiar to what happened to us at the first ETDOC meeting.  We had a group of kids follow us out from the restaurant and walking around the cars, one asked if they could have their picture taken with mine.  Sure, no problem I said.  Next thing I knew, they were all in it, on it, around it.  It was quite entertaining, but got to be a problem when we got ready to leave and all I kept getting out of them was "one more picture!!!"

Scott<br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 14:21:37 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Remote starters

Most remote starters (at least the one on my Jeep, from Viper) have a 
Tach wire on it. It monitors the Tach from the distributor so it 
knows when to stop cranking the starter. There is also a timer on it 
to stop the starter from turning the engine over if it does not 
start, then it retries again.

>SNIP<
In the D, I have it programmed to run the starter for 2 seconds,
> and if it does not start it waits 20 seconds two more times if need 
be and
> tries again.....The only time it has ever gone to the second try 
for ME is
> in the dead of winter when it has not been started for a week or 
more.  It
> can be programmed to run the starter for 4 seconds or longer too.   
I have
> <SNIP> 
> Let me know if you want the address or any further info.
> 
> Murray Fisher
> Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
> Washington State




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 07:56:46 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: RE: Remote starters

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
This ends the thread on remote starters.

Re  my note on remote starters, I was surprised at all the responses when I
"opened my mail" this morning....so I will respond to all with this one
note.  The address for the place I got one (and it was actually purchased
locally) is as follows:

	Design TEch International, Inc.
	7955 Cameron Brown Court
	Springfield, Virginia 22153 USA
	Tel: (703) 866-2000 (800) 337-4468 Fax: (703 866-2001)

The model is just called "AutoCommand" Remote Car Starter.

I would like to add that I think none of the ones who responded to the list
have had any actual experience with these units.   All brought up comments
or questions re the safety or validity of even having the units.   These are
commercial units and are well built and have every safety feature built into
them you can think  of.....for this reason they are not a back yard
mechanics project.  They are quite complex, but straightforward to install
if you take one part at a time and take it easy. Many things are
programmable with "dip" switches and can be changed after installation.
Trying to locate various components in the D's is the main problem, with the
rear engine and other complications.

You leave the car in the PARK position OR it will not start remotely. Which
precludes it going anywhere when it is started.  You can leave the doors
unlocked even. I have only locked my doors since I got it, on rare
ocassions, and mostly to demonstrate the remote lock/unlock feature.  But I
live in a small town, and am rarely very far from the car and it is ALWAYS
in the garage when I am home.  There is a trigger switch on the engine
compartment and on the brakes and gear shift.  If you move almost anything
in the car, even if it is started and running, it will shut itself down and
cannot be restarted by a burglar.    If you get in and put your foot on the
brake, before moving the gear shift lever to DRIVE, the motor will stop.  It
shuts itself down automatically after 10 minutes of running.  There are
various modules you can buy with it.  I got EVERYTHING available, which
includes an antitheft alarm.  This will either honk you horn or run a siren!
YOu can get it with the remote start ONLY also.   This is what I got for the
other car as it already had all of the above units on it.  You can remotely
honk the horn or turn your headlights on or off. (also it can be programmed
to open your garage door)

I drive my car all winter but RARELY, if ever, in inclement weather as I
don't want to get it dirty or mess it up, nor take a chance on icy
roads....otherwise I drive it every chance I get.....I am a big showoff so
enjoy taking it out in preference to other cars we own.  We have people come
to the door all the time and my wife and I always joke about whether it is
someone selling something or wants me to open the garage door so they can
see the D!   Mostly it is the latter.  I turned 80 the other day so gotta
get my fun any way and WHILE I can!

Of course, as to the comvenience.....that is a moot question.  We could
argue about that all day.   After four years of use in the D and two years
in the Lincoln, I am sold on the practicality of it.  I was concerned that
the D would overheat on a 100 degree day when I started it 5 or 10 minutes
in advance of using the car.  Not so.   Same thing with the heater in
winter......  It is very practical, as normally a person has been running
the car, going to the grocery store etc and it is already warmed up or
cooled down so it is very effective.   A luxury I guess you might say...like
power steering and power brakes and power windows etc.  We could get along
without any of these and just get something that will steer between the
telephone poles!    But  it is SO nice to enter a nice cool or warm car when
the temps are way up or way down.

I guess there are a few negatives and I think I know them ALL.  One is, that
with the DeLorean at least, there are usually bystanders that want to ask
questions about the car and with the door wide open all your heat or cold is
gone in a little bit with your door wide open.  One mention was made of the
legality of the motor running in an unattended car and that is a valid
point.  This is illegal in MY state!   However I doubt if a ticket has ever
been issued for this.....In the dead of winter you see car motors running at
the curb, with people trying to deice their windshields and warm up the
interior and that is usually for a LONG period of time.     Another is that
there is nothing to prevent the car being started in a closed garage This
would be bad of course.  (although it WOULD shut itself down in 10 minutes).

If any other questions, I would be glad to answer them.

Murray Fisher
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 12:06:39 EDT
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fault Scenario #1

Sounds like what my car was doing.  I replaced the fuel accumulator and have 
had no problems starting the car since.  

Brian
VIN 1597



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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:45:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pump

Ok, I found that I do have an inline fuse holder containing a green "30"
fuse. It's the only inline fuse holder, and #7 is the only one missing
from the block, so I'm assuming that this is it. I found it melted this
morning. The fuse holder itself is melted, as well as a spot a couple
inches down the wire where 2 wires have been connected and covered with
rubber. The fuse holder usually rests on the lower portion of my
lockzilla, and now zilla paint is smeared - only in the area of the fuse.

So it seems that I had a meltdown. What would have caused this, and what's
my next step? Would any auto electronics place be able to take care of
this, or should I have the car shipped back down to DMC Garden Grove (it
was there just a couple months ago)?

-Christian

PS. Thanks for all the help thus far!


On Fri, 4 May 2001, DMC Joe wrote:

> Christian,
>
> Check to see if you have 12 v at the brown wire at the RPM relay, if not fuse #7 is blown. Melt down of the number 7 fuse is extremely common and is corrected with the installation of an in-line fuse. You will need to find that added fuse holder which should be located in the area of the fuse block.
>
> DMC Joe
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Christian Williams
>   To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 1:48 AM
>   Subject: [DML] fuel pump
>
>
>   This morning on the way to work, the engine stalled and would not start
>   again. Last night I put new brake pads on the car all around. Afterward I
>   took the car for a spin, so I don't think that the fuel pump failure is
>   related to the brake work I did last night.
>
>   When turning the key to the "on" position, I do not hear the 2-3 seconds
>   of buzzing that the fuel pump usually makes. I read through the archives
>   and figured out where to start looking. Here's what I found:
>
>   1. Jumpering the brown and and purple wires on the RPM relay did not start
>   the fuel pump.
>
>   2. #1 fuse is not blown
>
>   3. #7 fuse is missing. I remember noticing that it was missing a week or
>   two ago. I don't believe it's ever been there. How could the fuel pump run
>   without it? Tried putting a fuse in for #7 - nothing different.
>
>   4. Using a volt meter on the main harness where the fuel pump connects
>   yeilded no signal.
>
>   Does it sound like there's an electrical problem between the RPM relay and
>   the fuel pump? Is there any way to directly test the fuel pump - perhaps
>   hooking some sort of power source directly to the pump??
>
>   Any ideas are more than welcome. This is my daily driver car.
>
>   -Christian
>   -3452
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 16:59:38 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: A problem! Throwout bearing?

If the throwout bearing was bad then you would have the noise only 
when you depress the clutch and it would go away when you let up. 
Since the trans is comming out anyway it doesn't matter because the 
clutch and bearings will be replaced anyway, at least they should be!
I doubt that even in a Corvair this means that the flywheel is bad. 
About the only things that happen to a flywheel is the ring gear for 
the starter goes bad or the face needs to be ground because of burning 
or heat cracks. It is very rare that a flywheel ever needs to be 
replaced.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Les,
> 
> You probably have a defective clutch throwout bearing. In most cases 
the noise will not affect clutch operation. If the noise gets louder 
in the future you will need to replace the bearing. When you do you 
should probably do a complete clutch overhaul procedure.
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> "We're here to help you"
> 
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>   
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Les Huckins 
>   To: dmcnews_at_dml_y... 
>   Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:57 PM
>   Subject: [DML] A problem!
> 
> 
>   Having solved all the problems the car came with I thought I was 
out of
>   the fog for a while.  Today I have a noise while in neutral.  Goes 
away
>   when the clutch pedal is depressed.  In a Corvair that would be a 
bad
>   flywheel, what is it in the D?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 16:52:49 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Fault Scenaria #2

The thing you are looking for is the circuit breaker and it is located 
behind the passenger seat by the fuse block. There are two side by 
side with the other being for the fan motor for the heat-a/c. Both 
should be upgraded to the higher ratings. It is a small gold-colored 
metal box with wires attached to it. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Gregory M Scalia" <gmscalia_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Fans cut out after about 10 minutes of running,...I suspect that 
this is the
> thermal trip in series with the fans.
> Is this so?  Where is this thermal trip and what does it look like?




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 18:59:15 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair

Hi Dave, guess I wasn't clear enough, this was for those who no longer wish
to play tapes but want the display to work and it's based upon the only
"repair" information I found under FAQ or tech section or wherever.  It said
"do it" but didn't say how, this is the how.  I don't advocate it, go back a
few days and find my post about the flexible wires that should be a permanent
fix, that's what I suggest.  I have the wire, I have the knowhow and I have
the technique, my attempt was to share.  That one is to be written up, with
pictures, to be posted on the site.  Wait for it.

jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:

> Unfortunatly you cannot consider your method a "repair". Unless you
> seal the cassette door so you cannot insert a tape (thereby deleting
> the cassette player) the fix cannot last. No matter how expert you are
> at soldering one of two things will happen. Either the solder will
> crack at the flex or the traces will break alongside your repair. The
> only "cure" is to either replace and reroute the flex or make up a
> multi ribbon cable to replace it. Probably the most cost effective way
> around is to just replace the radio with either the ASI or something
> better. That still leaves the question of what to do with the clock.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > If you no longer plan to play tapes and just want your display
> working,
> > here are a few tips.  First of all, as everyone cautions, you must
> be
> > able to solder well above average.  The traces are close together
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 11:10:27 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: A problem! Throwout bearing?

Dave, you're out of your arena again, Corvairs have a riveted 3 piece
flywheel, the rivets get loose and allow it to rattle when not under
pressure.  (Best not to challenge my on Corvairs) :-)

jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:

> If the throwout bearing was bad then you would have the noise only
> when you depress the clutch and it would go away when you let up.
> Since the trans is comming out anyway it doesn't matter because the
> clutch and bearings will be replaced anyway, at least they should be!
> I doubt that even in a Corvair this means that the flywheel is bad.
> About the only things that happen to a flywheel is the ring gear for
> the starter goes bad or the face needs to be ground because of burning
> or heat cracks. It is very rare that a flywheel ever needs to be
> replaced.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Les,
> >
> > You probably have a defective clutch throwout bearing. In most cases
> the noise will not affect clutch operation. If the noise gets louder
> in the future you will need to replace the bearing. When you do you
> should probably do a complete clutch overhaul procedure.
> >
> > DMC Joe
> >
> > "We're here to help you"
> >
> > DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> > Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
> >
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Les Huckins
> >   To: dmcnews_at_dml_y...
> >   Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:57 PM
> >   Subject: [DML] A problem!
> >
> >
> >   Having solved all the problems the car came with I thought I was
> out of
> >   the fog for a while.  Today I have a noise while in neutral.  Goes
> away
> >   when the clutch pedal is depressed.  In a Corvair that would be a
> bad
> >   flywheel, what is it in the D?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:04:48 EDT
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Graffiti Night in Modesto, CA

I don't know how many in or near California may be interested in this,
but Modesto is considered by many to be home of "Graffiti night" and
car cruising  (George Lucas was born in Modesto and based American Graffiti on
life here in the 50s).  Usually there are a few classic car shows
and a big cruise down McHenry Ave.  This all happens the first
weekend after high schools let out (usually first or second weekend
in June).  

Anyway I'm going to try and have my D involved in something, and
if any other owners in the area would like to get together that
weekend or get involved in a show (I think they're pretty informal), 
let me know and I will try and get more info for you.  Mail me at
RJRavalli_at_dml_aol.com.

Richard
 



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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:13:44 EDT
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: LAST CALL - EUROFEST 2001

Last call for all Eurofest late registrations! (Postal registration closed).
May 10th is absolutely the final date for on-line registration only 
(http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/eurofest2001.html)
This is your very last chance to visit the factory and drive a DeLorean 
around the test track.  Almost 200 people signed up from all over the world - 
this is going to be a fantastic 20th birthday party.
Belfast awaits you!
Robert Lamrock
Eurofest Organiser
 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:24:19 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump

Christian,

You are dealing with a type of repair that is only as durable as you make
it.  On a friend's D, he had the exact same problem as you.  A previous
mechanic replaced the fuse holder, but the new connections were not done
very well.  The new pigtail fuse holder melted along with one of the splice
connections to the original wiring.

If you are not electrically inclined, then you might want to have DMC Garden
Grove fix it.  It seems that shipping the car would be rather expensive
compared to the simplicity of the repair, but finding a mechanic who is
willing to take the time to do the repair right is a big problem from my
experience.

Since you were able to find the problem yourself, you are probably more than
able to fix it yourself too.  Here's how you can do it:

Go to the electrical section of any automotive store and buy a pigtail fuse
holder.  Cut the melted repair off while saving as much original wire as you
can.  If the wire insulation got hot, then the copper wire inside will be
oxidized and not give a good connection.  Either cut more of the original
wire away or try to clean up what you have.  It is a judgement call since if
you cut very much away then you will run out of wire.  I usually try to save
as much of the old wire as I can by cleaning it up with some fine steel
wool.  The wire should be bright, shiny and new looking or else the
connection will eventually melt down again.

From here, there are a several ways to make the new connection.  How you do
it will depend on your skill and experience.  My preferred method is to use
a crimp barrel connector.  It is basically a small tube made of soft metal.
You stick a clean wire in either end of it and crush the tube with a crimp
tool.  These can be bought at the same automotive store.  Usually they come
pre-insulated -- meaning that they have a plastic sleeve on the outside.  I
don't like these because the plastic gets in the way of making a good crimp.
But this is what most mechanics use.  I prefer using a heavier duty one that
comes without insulation.  Once the crimp is solid, then I melt some solder
into it to make it permanent and then shrink some rubber tubing over it.
Chances are you won't have the tools on hand to solder and shrink, but it
isn't really necessary.

Some other caveats:
1) Replacement fuse holders can often stand to be tightened up especially if
you are using a 20 amp fuse with it.  That may be part of the reason why the
previous repair failed.  What you do is lightly crush the female spade lug
connectors inside the fuse holder with a pair of pliers.  This will make the
connection better.
2) If fuse #7 has already been bypassed on your fuse block, then chances are
other ones have been bypassed too or are getting ready to need it.  Check
all your fuses and make sure they are clean.  Replace them otherwise.  Take
a close look at fuses #10, 14 & 15.  I have seen these get hot too.
3) Fuse #7 should be a yellow 20 amp fuse and not a green 30 amp.
4) If your fuse block needs very much repair, you might want to go on and
have a good mechanic look it over anyway.  But if you want to save some
money and you feel adventurous, then try it yourself.

Walt    Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

>Ok, I found that I do have an inline fuse holder containing a green "30"
>fuse. It's the only inline fuse holder, and #7 is the only one missing
>from the block, so I'm assuming that this is it.




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