From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 531
Date: Saturday, May 05, 2001 5:59 AM

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Thin Grey stripes (was: Wide Black Sidestripes)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: fuel pump updated
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

3. DeLorean in Crutchfield
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. Re: Fault Scenaria #2
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: fuel pump
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Fault Scenario #1
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. Complete VIN listing
From: Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Clutch
From: csher52552_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. Speaker Mounting
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: A problem! Throwout bearing?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

13. Re: Fault Scenaria #2
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: fuel pump
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:36:37 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Thin Grey stripes (was: Wide Black Sidestripes)

Steve,

I have seen the thin gray stripes on only one DeLorean.  They were
disproportionately badly weathered compared to the rest of the car, and what
was left of them looked more like dotted lines than stripes.  I got the
impression that the material was not of a good quality.

With the exception of the DMC logo in the design, I think you could easily
duplicate it with off-the-shelf gray pin-striping.  (But don't pay attention
to my opinion.  I like to oil water pumps, make bleach bottle and beer can
fuel baffles, align my wheels using string, etc.  :-)

Walt    Tampa, FL


-----Original Message-----
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

>Speaking of stripes, does anyone know if the thin Grey stripes are
>available? I saw them on a couple of cars at the NJ door adjustment
>gathering the other weekend and I liked them. :)





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 21:42:40 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump updated

Try this. Connect a jumper for the positive wire between the harness 
and the fuel pump. For the negative wire, don't connect it back into 
the harness. Use a jumper wire to ground the connection directly to 
the chassis. The front ground point behind the radiator will give the 
best results. You can do this test using either the fuel pump, or a 
volt meter.

Had the exact same porblem on my car that you did. Turned out to be a 
poor ground connection for the fuel pump. I also had the exact same 
results that you did; Not picking up any power from the harness 
connection. An external ground connection, and everything was ok!

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> I just found a post in the archives by DMC JOE saying to hook a 12v 
source
> to the fuel pump directly. I just did that and I heard "the fuel 
pump
> sound".
<SNIP>




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:50:55 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: DeLorean in Crutchfield

I just got a Crutchfield catalog yesterday (Summer 2001) and as I was flipping through it, I ran across a picture of a guy (Xelle L. Wyble, Jr. in Panama City, FL) standing in front of his DeLorean.  This is on page 66 on the bottom right.  It doesn't say anything about him or the car.  If you are on the list, Xelle, your car is looking good.

Sean Howley
VIN#2345


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 22:45:02 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fault Scenaria #2

Gregory, The fans could also be cutting out if you the original Fan fail 
relay, The thermal strip or circuit breaker can be seen on my web site at 
www.specialTauto.com/under talk & view /relay compartment.Your fans could be 
drawing more current than they should due to age and need brushes or 
replacement.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:06:55 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump

Christian, If the fuse melts down, there is a reason for it. The fuel 
pump is an electrical motor. If it's old and getting wore out it will 
draw more current and cause more damage to the electrical system. If 
the fuel pump has to work harder getting the gas maby due to a 
partially stopped up screen, then again it will draw more current and 
burn out the fuses and possibilty burn the RPM/fuel pump relay 
contacts. Putting in a higher fuse will always add to the problem. 
Replace the fuse with the correct one make sure all wires are 
connected firmily and see what happens. If it burns again, then the 
pump may be defective..
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



   --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> This morning on the way to work, the engine stalled and would not 
start
> again. Last night I put new brake pads on the car all around. 
Afterward I
> took the car for a spin, so I don't think that the fuel pump 
failure is
> related to the brake work I did last night.
> 
> When turning the key to the "on" position, I do not hear the 2-3 
seconds
> of buzzing that the fuel pump usually makes. I read through the 
archives
> and figured out where to start looking. Here's what I found:
> 
> 1. Jumpering the brown and and purple wires on the RPM relay did 
not start
> the fuel pump.
> 
> 2. #1 fuse is not blown
> 
> 3. #7 fuse is missing. I remember noticing that it was missing a 
week or
> two ago. I don't believe it's ever been there. How could the fuel 
pump run
> without it? Tried putting a fuse in for #7 - nothing different.
> 
> 4. Using a volt meter on the main harness where the fuel pump 
connects
> yeilded no signal.
> 
> Does it sound like there's an electrical problem between the RPM 
relay and
> the fuel pump? Is there any way to directly test the fuel pump - 
perhaps
> hooking some sort of power source directly to the pump??
> 
> Any ideas are more than welcome. This is my daily driver car.
> 
> -Christian
> -3452
> "I fixed the brakes so well that the car won't go now"




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 23:14:43 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)

Hey List,

    I just realized something....a year ago today...I separated the frame and 
body on my car.  I can't believe that was a whole year ago and I am finally 
driving it. Its been a long year.  Thats all for now, just thought the DML 
would like to know that its been a year since I separated the frame and body.

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:21:30 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fault Scenario #1

Gregory, When was the last time you had a tune up and the air flow 
was adjusted. I hear people replaceing injectors all the time and 
most of the time they are not the problem. They can also be cleaned 
with Berrymans B12. The #1 culprit is the accumulator. If that has 
been replaced then the cold start valve sounds it's working when 
cold. Has it been wired direct. Is it working hot also. This could 
also cause flooding. Are you giving the car gas when trying to start 
it, if so don't. Even in Texas I sometimes run the Hot Start relay 
all the time, but that is because my car is kept in top tuned shape 
since I'm always working on it and it starts quick. We can go deeper 
into the fuel system with sensors, but most of all that is in the 
workshop books. You may hear me say this a lot. But run a can of 
Berrymans B12 thru the gas. If the control plunger is sticking, it 
will disolve the varnish.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Gregory M Scalia" <gmscalia_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Problem #1
> Car starts cold fine
> Car drives fine
> Car starts hot fine
> Leave car for 30-120 minutes stopped and semi cooled, car takes 
about 10
> minutes of cranking to start (if the battery doesnt die first).  
Sounds a
> bit like it is flooded./  Replaced the injectors as it was 
suggested that
> these were leaking during the cool down phase...this has helped 
very little.
> Car will start easily several hours later when completely cold
> 
> Any thoughts?




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:23:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Complete VIN listing

I've been trying to find a particular site where someone had put an incomplete listing of VIN numbers, factory configuration and known status.  Several months ago I came across a site and I didn't think to book mark it.  I can't seem to get any search engine to grok my regex the same way :(  So, I'm shamefully asking anyone on the list if they've seen this page? :)

Stephen
Vin #2533 (now _at_dml_200hp)

_____________________________________________________________
YourName_at_dml_delorean.com -- it's free from <a href="http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:27:26 -0000
From: csher52552_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Clutch

How can look at a clutch and tell if I should replace it or should I 
replace it since I have the engine and transmission out of the car? 
No symptoms of clutch or transmission problems.  Thanks Charles




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:30:24 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair

Les, I Fixed my radio display about two years ago and put it out on 
the group if they wanted it fixed I could do it also. I have only had 
one other taker. Most people want to upgrade. Yes it was a bad 
design. But your Fix and mine I feel are better than original. The 
circuit wires flex better and arn't as stiff. Nothing is permanent, 
not even us.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> If you no longer plan to play tapes and just want your display 
working,
> here are a few tips.  First of all, as everyone cautions, you must 
be
> able to solder well above average.  The traces are close together 
and
> you must get on and off quickly else the traces will lift up out of 
the
> plastic and make you sorry you started the whole thing.  The main
> problem beyond that is that the traces are in such close proximity 
that
> it's very easy to solder across two or three traces at the same 
time.
> Here's what I suggest.  Start from one side only, whichever is
> comfortable for you, then just bare one trace at a time as you go 
along,
> this leaves the traces in one direction still embedded in the tough
> plastic and you can kind of "lean" that way as you solder.  To bare 
a
> trace, use a sharp razor blade, or equivalent (I use a carpet 
cutting
> blade) and scrape only enough to make the joint, appox. 1/8th inch 
each
> side. The heat of the iron is also important, I use a 30 watt with a
> pointed tip (purchased at Radio shack for about $7).  Too low 
doesn't
> solder quickly enough and too high is too quick, there needs to be 
sort
> of a rhythm.
> 
> In removing the display assembly, detach the return spring from the
> case, not from the display, also, note the amount of tension, it's 
about
> one turn, you should put the same amount of tension on the spring 
when
> you refasten it.  Not as important as if you were doing it with 
wires
> and planning to play tapes, but why not do it right.
> 
> My prototype had all 16 traces separated, if you still have some 
intact,
> it's very easy to check with an Ohmmeter to determine which need the
> repair.  There's a distinct crease where the breaks occur, no 
problem
> finding that.  I coated the finished repair with radio-TV service 
cement
> but could be Duco or shellac or nothing at all, It's not going 
anywhere.
> 
> If this lacks clarity, let me know, it's hard to tell where 
someone's
> skill level lies.
> 
> Les




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:43:29 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Speaker Mounting

Group, I also posted where I mounted my speakers to upgrade the sound 
system but also keep the original Craig Radio with the Fixed Dial. 
Due to the size of the driving compartment. I have plenty of sound 
for me and the car next to me. See at Talk & View, 
www.specialTauto.com
John Hervey  




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 23:13:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: A problem! Throwout bearing?

David,

In some cases just the opposite is true. If the bearing has one or more defective ball bearings the bearing unit will be noisy with no load and quite when a load is applied.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN, USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/> <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 12:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] A problem! Throwout bearing?


  If the throwout bearing was bad then you would have the noise only 
  when you depress the clutch and it would go away when you let up. 
  David Teitelbaum
  vin 10757




  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
  > Les,
  > 
  > You probably have a defective clutch throwout bearing. In most cases 
  the noise will not affect clutch operation. If the noise gets louder 
  in the future you will need to replace the bearing. When you do you 
  should probably do a complete clutch overhaul procedure.
  > 
  > DMC Joe
  > 
  > "We're here to help you"
  > 
  > DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
  > Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  >   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 23:15:19 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fault Scenaria #2

Gregory,

The thermal trip (circuit breaker) is located next to the fuse block, passenger side. It will have two heavy wires attached. The wire colors are brown/slate and brown/orange. Replace this breaker with the 40 amp upgrade.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN, USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/> 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gregory M Scalia 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 7:58 AM
  Subject: [DML] Fault Scenaria #2


  Fans cut out after about 10 minutes of running,...I suspect that this is the
  thermal trip in series with the fans.
  Is this so?  Where is this thermal trip and what does it look like?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 23:38:19 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump

The wiring for the fuel pump circuit is under rated therefore only solid connections and a heavy duty fuse holder will perform satisfactorily. More than 50% of these attempted fixes fail again. Any qualified automotive tech with through electrical knowledge will know exactly what to do.

It is interesting to note that the person who performed the previous fuse fix in your car installed the over rated 30 amp fuse. This is the reason why the wires adjacent to the fuse are also burnt.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"
 
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN, USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/> 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Christian Williams 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 12:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] fuel pump


  Ok, I found that I do have an inline fuse holder containing a green "30"
  fuse. It's the only inline fuse holder, and #7 is the only one missing
  from the block, so I'm assuming that this is it. I found it melted this
  morning. The fuse holder itself is melted, as well as a spot a couple
  inches down the wire where 2 wires have been connected and covered with
  rubber. The fuse holder usually rests on the lower portion of my
  lockzilla, and now zilla paint is smeared - only in the area of the fuse.

  So it seems that I had a meltdown. What would have caused this, and what's
  my next step? Would any auto electronics place be able to take care of
  this, or should I have the car shipped back down to DMC Garden Grove (it
  was there just a couple months ago)?

  -Christian

  PS. Thanks for all the help thus far!


  On Fri, 4 May 2001, DMC Joe wrote:

  > Christian,
  >
  > Check to see if you have 12 v at the brown wire at the RPM relay, if not fuse #7 is blown. Melt down of the number 7 fuse is extremely common and is corrected with the installation of an in-line fuse. You will need to find that added fuse holder which should be located in the area of the fuse block.
  >
  > DMC Joe
  >
  > "We're here to help you"
  >
  > DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
  > Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  >


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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