From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 532
Date: Saturday, May 05, 2001 11:34 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. speedo..
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>

2. Re: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>

3. Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Complete VIN listing
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com

5. Quality of the 3M stripes (was Re: Thin Grey stripes)
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

6. Diecast DeLorean from Sunstar
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

7. Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

8. Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

9. Fuel Pump - Solved
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

10. cluch line replacement
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

11. West Virginia DeLorean car show
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

12. Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

13. Re: speedo..
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

14. RE: speedo..
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

15. Re: speedo..
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

16. Tail light reflectors
From: amazinrick_at_dml_aol.com

17. Stuck passenger door.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

18. Re: fuel pump, inertia switch
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)
From: "Flash66" <flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com>

20. Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

21. Boston area service
From: graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com

22. Re: Re: Fault Scenario #1
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Re: Clutch
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

24. Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

25. Re: Stuck passenger door.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:02:36 -0400
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>
Subject: speedo..

hi group..

last year, a few days before i put my car away for the winter, the speedo
stopped working.  i figured that i would get it fixed once i get the car out
this year.  i took the car out of storage earlier this week and
lo-and-behold, the speedo worked for about 20 minutes and then stopped
working again.  i find that it is working intermittantly.  has this ever
happened to anyone else?

thanks..

<=-mike-=>
www.nt.net/~mcutting





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:09:06 -0500
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>
Subject: Re: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)

your link doesnt work, any ideas?

----- Original Message -----
From: <njp548_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 10:14 PM
Subject: [DML] One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)


> Hey List,
>
>     I just realized something....a year ago today...I separated the frame
and
> body on my car.  I can't believe that was a whole year ago and I am
finally
> driving it. Its been a long year.  Thats all for now, just thought the DML
> would like to know that its been a year since I separated the frame and
body.
>
> Later,
> Nick
> 1852
> <A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 07:58:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Front End Alignment & Brakes

#1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
(with big machines) say the toe and camber are fine,
wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out. 
One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not see
how to adjust this.  How do you.
   #2 - Brakes pulse badly when stopping.  Do I need
new front pad kit from PJ Grady _at_dml_ $55 each.  Thanks.
-=DH=-
#2912


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 15:49:15 -0000
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Complete VIN listing

This is in the DeLorean FAQ on the dmcnews.com page.
The address is http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm
Just click on DMC Vin List.

John Yeoman





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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 12:32:28 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Quality of the 3M stripes (was Re: Thin Grey stripes)

I think what Walt is overlooking is that the stripes are now about 20 years
old, and he mentions nothing about what kind of life the one DeLorean he saw
with these stripes had had.

The stripe material is made by 3M, and designed for automotive applications.
Walt doesn't say and I don't know how long those stripes had been on that
particular car, but I think 3M produced a good stripe in excellent material.
If the car had the stripes put on at the original selling dealer, they've
been on the car for about 20 years, and if the car was a daily driver and
has spent the better part of the last twenty years in the elements (rain,
sun, etc) - that would account for their condition.

For every car that I've seen at our shop or any show with
weathered/neglected stripe treatment (grey OR black), I have seen MORE with
good condition stripes. I think it is wrong to question the quality of the
material, based on the observation of one car where the history of stripe
installation (date and how it was applied) in unknown.

FWIW.

James

> From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
> Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:36:37 -0400
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [DML] Thin Grey stripes (was: Wide Black Sidestripes)
> 
> I have seen the thin gray stripes on only one DeLorean.  They were
> disproportionately badly weathered compared to the rest of the car, and what
> was left of them looked more like dotted lines than stripes.  I got the
> impression that the material was not of a good quality

(SNIP)




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 18:41:32 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Diecast DeLorean from Sunstar

Latest from Sunstar according their Managing Director here in the states
says production is scheduled for August and first shipment at the end of
September. We are trying to have one of the production samples sent to us in
time for the Open House.

We are working with them on the packaging at this time, so it's getting
close!!

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com 




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:07:18 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes

If the brakes are pulsing or shaking the car when you slow down, check your
rotors for excessive wear.  They may need to be turned.  If you have a
machine shop in your area they will be able to do this for you.  Some repair
shops can do this while they are on the car, but it may be cheaper to take
them off and try a machine shop.

payne
#2975
> #1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
> (with big machines) say the toe and camber are fine,
> wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out.
> One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not see
> how to adjust this.  How do you.
>    #2 - Brakes pulse badly when stopping.  Do I need
> new front pad kit from PJ Grady _at_dml_ $55 each.  Thanks.
> -=DH=-
> #2912
>
>





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:34:41 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes

I am sure PJ Grady's front brake pad kit is a fair price when you consider
shipping stocking costs etc...but any-one attending Eurofest..I can supply
front brake pad kits at about $20,    and rear one's at about $30

..please Email me privately if you want some taken along..they are rather
heavy ..so book in advance..

....They are made in the Uk to the original Girling Specification......

Please get loads of UK cash as we in the DOC UK don't do plastic cards!!!

See you in 19 days time...BTW  Dusty now up to 109 miles!!!!



Chris P DOC UK     chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net



----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Hornsby" <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 3:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Front End Alignment & Brakes


> #1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
> (with big machines) say the toe and camber are fine,
> wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out.
> One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not see
> how to adjust this.  How do you.
>    #2 - Brakes pulse badly when stopping.  Do I need
> new front pad kit from PJ Grady _at_dml_ $55 each.  Thanks.
> -=DH=-
> #2912
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:32:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump - Solved

Removing the old, burned out and melted inline #7 fuse and replacing it
with 5 dollars worth of parts did the trick. The car is running just fine
now. Big thanks to everyone who let me in the right direction, especially
John at SpecialTAuto and Walt in Tampa.

One benefit of having the car towed back to my house and left on the
street for a couple days is that one of the neighbours at the end of the
road noticed my D. He stopped by just a couple minutes ago and gave me an
original DeLorean sales brouchure and a June 1980 "Road Test" magazine
with the DeLorean in it. Both are in excellent condition... just like my
car.

Thanks again DML!

-Christian
-The now fully-functional #3452







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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:35:41 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: cluch line replacement

Does anyone have pictures online of thier clutch line upgrade/replacement?
Looks like I've still got that black plastic line from my master cylinder
and should probably upgrade it with the stainless one.  I just want to know
what to look for and how easy it is to do.  Also, I should probably replace
my clutch master cylinder with it.  There's a bit of old fluid around the
opening on the inside of the car.  Not bad, but they only get worse.

Thanks.

payne
#2975






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:19:23 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: West Virginia DeLorean car show


    There is a car show in Morgantown West Virginia Sunday, May 5, 2001. 
There will be 3 DeLorean cars, in addition to many, many, more.
    The show is scheduled from 9:00 am thru 4:00 PM.

For more information please email 
Gullwing99_at_dml_aol.com 
or call my car phone at 410-279-1549

Sincerely,
Mike Pack
DOA 4743
VIN 3713



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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 23:18:54 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes

Your car may have been in an accident and the frame is bent or the 
front crumple tubes are so rusted that the wheels moved. Refer to 
Workshop Manual R:02:02 and :03 for frame dimensions to see what is 
wrong. If the pedal pulsates a rotor is warped.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> #1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
> (with big machines) say the toe and camber are fine,
> wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out. 
> One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not see
> how to adjust this.  How do you.
>    #2 - Brakes pulse badly when stopping.  Do I need
> new front pad kit from PJ Grady _at_dml_ $55 each.  Thanks.
> -=DH=-
> #2912
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 23:10:27 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: speedo..

There are several things to check but start with the plastic disc in 
the center of the left front wheel. If the sguare hole in the center 
is rounded out that would cause the problem. You have to remove the 
wheel to check it. Also make sure that the disc is secure when the 
wheel is replaced or it could spin.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> hi group..
> 
> last year, a few days before i put my car away for the winter, the 
speedo
> stopped working.  i figured that i would get it fixed once i get the 
car out
> this year.  i took the car out of storage earlier this week and
> lo-and-behold, the speedo worked for about 20 minutes and then 
stopped
> working again.  i find that it is working intermittantly.  has this 
ever
> happened to anyone else?
> 
> thanks..
> 
> <=-mike-=>
> www.nt.net/~mcutting




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:49:32 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: speedo..


Sounds like you need to replace the plastic dust cap that the angle drive
connects to.

Robert Starling
Vin#05252




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 20:39:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: speedo..

Had the same problem. As time went on the problem went from being 
intermidant to the needle bouncing up and down. Fix was easy in this 
case. The dust shield on the left front wheel was worn. $14 for a new 
dust shield, and the problem was fixed.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_n...> wrote:
<SNIP> ...the speedo worked for about 20 minutes and then stopped
> working again.  i find that it is working intermittantly.  has this 
ever
> happened to anyone else?
<SNIP>




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:22:21 EDT
From: amazinrick_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Tail light reflectors

Anybody had to put their old taillight reflectors into new lenses?  How the 
heck do you get them out without breaking something?  Haven't taken the old 
ones off yet, but looking at the new ones, it looks like they snap into 
place... no way to get them to pop back out.  Any ideas?  Thanks!



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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 20:04:22 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Stuck passenger door.

My passenger door now has decided not to open. The upper trim panel 
is off, and when pulling either the internal or external door handle, 
it does appear that all of the connecting rods are working correctly. 
However, the door will not unlock. When pushing the lock down, or 
turning the key on the outside, the door refuses to unlock. Everytime 
I turn the key into the fully unlocked position, it just snaps back 
into place without unlocking. The door doesn't appear to be jammed, 
it just won't unlock! I can see the white plastic pieces in the door 
that connect to the locking mechanism, and they both turn freely with 
no trouble.

To give a better idea, both of my doors have guide blocks installed, 
and the power door locks were disabled a long time ago.

I am no longer scratching my head over this. I'm pulling my hair out!

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:43:39 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump, inertia switch

In a message dated 5/5/01 8:45:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com 
writes:

<< Turned out to be a 
 poor ground connection for the fuel pump. I also had the exact same 
 results that you did; Not picking up any power from the harness 
 connection. An external ground connection, and everything was ok! >>

When I worked on my fuel pump, I found I had an extra green ground wire 
spiced into the pump harness.  It ran to the ground point by the front wheel, 
bypassing the inertia switch. There was nothing wrong with the inertia switch 
when I reconnected it, so I'm guessing a former owner accidentally bumped the 
inertia switch into the "off" position, and a mechanic decided to "repair" 
the problem without bothering to know the car or determine what was wrong.  
Could be your interia switch is "off" or shot.  Do you know how to check it?  
It's in the archives... haven't got time for a long post right at the moment. 
 If you need to know, ask and I'll be able to reply later.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group 



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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:34:15 -0400
From: "Flash66" <flash66_at_dml_stealthport.com>
Subject: Re: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)

Hi Nick,

     Is it true that you really seperated the body and frame in 4 and 1/2
hours ?
Thats incredible. I thought it would be a much longer process.
-Paul #16811

>     I just realized something....a year ago today...I separated the frame
and
> body on my car.  I can't believe that was a whole year ago and I am
finally
> driving it. Its been a long year.  Thats all for now, just thought the DML
> would like to know that its been a year since I separated the frame and
body.





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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:32:00 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes

Doug,

>#1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
>(with big machines) say the toe and camber are fine,
>wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out.
>One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not see
>how to adjust this.  How do you.

Does your car pull hard to the right all the time or only while you are
braking?

From your symptoms, it sounds like you could have several separate problems:

Problem 1:  Put the front of your car on jacks and see if you can giggle
your tires forward and backwards.  There should be no play this direction.
If the connection is solid, then you might only have a bent front lower
control arm (also called a 'lower link' part # 105177 in the parts manual).
This would explain your caster problem, but I don't think it is the reason
why your car is pulling hard to the right (when braking).

Problem 2:  If you get fore & aft movement in either tire, then your front
lower control arm is loose.  Then your car could be pulling to the right
(even while not braking) because your toe-in alignment is continually
changing.  There are a few things that can cause this.  It could be the
pivot bushing at the frame (part # 100154) or the anti-roll bar bushing
(part # 108912).  Also, there was a recall concerning the nuts that hold the
anti-roll bar to the front lower control arm.  Perhaps the recall wasn't
performed on your car and this part has loosened up.  The threads on the
ends of the anti-roll bar are supposed to be double nutted and painted blue
(to more easily identify the recall).  If your car is missing this, then
also suspect that the front crumple tube recall wasn't done either.  If this
part comes loose while driving, then it would be very dangerous.

Problem 3:  Your car pulling hard to the right (only while braking) sounds
like a brake caliper on the left side is not working.  Maybe it is leaking,
seized up, has air in the line, bad fluid, etc.  Maybe a brake caliper on
the right side is dragging to the point of overheating the rotor.

Problem 4: As for your brake pulsing, new pads aren't the cure.  It sounds
like you have a warped brake rotor.  The way to fix it is to have a brake
shop machine away the unevenness.  But this makes it thinner and more prone
to warping a second time.  If you feel the pulse more in the steering wheel,
then it is in the front brakes.  If you feel it more in the body, then it is
the rear brakes.

Well, that used up my 1 hour for the day playing on the internet.  Until
tomorrow...

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 20:53:54 -0000
From: graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Boston area service

Hi all (Boston people in particular),

   Luckily I'm not in need for any major repairs (hopefully for a 
while) but should a problem arise, where do you suggest that I get my 
service done locally? I live in Framingham. I'm capable of doing most 
little things myself, but engine, transmission, etc... are out of my 
league. Although if I have lots big problems I would probably send it 
to Houston. Any help would be great.

Thanks!

Tyler
# 3472




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:57:45 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Fault Scenario #1

John,

In the reply to this post you said: "Are you giving the car gas when trying to start it, if so don't."

What did you mean by that statement? 

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"
 
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN, USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/> 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 11:21 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: Fault Scenario #1


  Gregory, When was the last time you had a tune up and the air flow 
  was adjusted. I hear people replaceing injectors all the time and 
  most of the time they are not the problem. They can also be cleaned 
  with Berrymans B12. The #1 culprit is the accumulator. If that has 
  been replaced then the cold start valve sounds it's working when 
  cold. Has it been wired direct. Is it working hot also. This could 
  also cause flooding. Are you giving the car gas when trying to start 
  it, if so don't. Even in Texas I sometimes run the Hot Start relay 
  all the time, but that is because my car is kept in top tuned shape 
  since I'm always working on it and it starts quick. We can go deeper 
  into the fuel system with sensors, but most of all that is in the 
  workshop books. You may hear me say this a lot. But run a can of 
  Berrymans B12 thru the gas. If the control plunger is sticking, it 
  will disolve the varnish.
  John Hervey
  www.specialTauto.com
   

   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 23:06:48 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Clutch

The clutch plate is a wearable item. The pressure plate can get burnt. 
The bearings should be replaced just because you are in there. If you 
aren't sure about the clutch and pressure plate take the parts to a 
large shop in you area that rebuilds clutchs and have them look the 
parts over. You can inspect the flywheel yourself for grooves and heat 
cracks. They can quickly point out what you will need and match it up. 
The wear is mainly a function of your driving style and the mileage 
accumulated. As long as the trans is out if you have alot of miles on 
it you might want to reseal it. At the very least change the oil. If 
the slave cylinder is leaking now would be a good time to replace it 
and also the clutch hydralic line if it hasn't been changed to a 
braided steel line. You should at least flush the brake fluid with DOT 
4.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., csher52552_at_dml_a... wrote:
> How can look at a clutch and tell if I should replace it or should I 
> replace it since I have the engine and transmission out of the car? 
> No symptoms of clutch or transmission problems.  Thanks Charles




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 03:32:42 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes

I forgot to include that castor on the Delorean is NOT adjustable. If 
it is out of spec (3-1/2 to 4 degrees positive) then something IS bent 
or broken. There are really only 2 things that are adjustable on the 
Delorean. The front toe-in and the rear thrust angle. If ANY other 
alignment is out of spec something is worn-bent-broken. To find the 
rotor causing the pulsation all you need is a dial indicater and 
micrometer and just check each rotor for parallelism and runout. Some 
venders do not recomend cutting the rotors although many people have 
had it done successfully. If you do cut or replace the rotors then it 
is recomended that you replace the brake pads. Always replace in sets 
ie: both fronts or both rears, never just on 1 side.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> #1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
> (with big machines) say the toe and camber are fine,
> wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out. 
> One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not see
> how to adjust this.  How do you.
>    #2 - Brakes pulse badly when stopping.  Do I need
> new front pad kit from PJ Grady _at_dml_ $55 each.  Thanks.
> -=DH=-
> #2912
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/




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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 23:54:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Stuck passenger door.

Robert,

Try this first step to release your door lock. Locate the exterior door handle cable where it attaches to the latch release link bell crank which is located just above the interior door release handle. Push the bellcrank back to allow you to detach the cable ball end from the bellcrank. Check to see if the lock releases. Let me know the result.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 4:04 PM
  Subject: [DML] Stuck passenger door.


  My passenger door now has decided not to open. The upper trim panel 
  is off, and when pulling either the internal or external door handle, 
  it does appear that all of the connecting rods are working correctly. 
  However, the door will not unlock. When pushing the lock down, or 
  turning the key on the outside, the door refuses to unlock. Everytime 
  I turn the key into the fully unlocked position, it just snaps back 
  into place without unlocking. The door doesn't appear to be jammed, 
  it just won't unlock! I can see the white plastic pieces in the door 
  that connect to the locking mechanism, and they both turn freely with 
  no trouble.

  To give a better idea, both of my doors have guide blocks installed, 
  and the power door locks were disabled a long time ago.

  I am no longer scratching my head over this. I'm pulling my hair out!

  -Robert
  vin 6585



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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