From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 534
Date: Monday, May 07, 2001 4:25 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Boston area service
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

2. Re: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

3. Re: re: hood question
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

4. Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

5. RE: Tail light reflectors
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

6. Re: Fuel Varnish (Navagation Speed Up Tip)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Warm-up Regulator?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

8. Earthquake Mirror
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

9. Re: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Stainless Treatment
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

11. Re: Quality of the 3M stripes
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats_at_dml_excite.com>

12. Re: re: hood question
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Mechanic in Virginia??
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Re: Front pads & rotors
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Warm-up Regulator?
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

17. Re: Quality of the 3M stripes
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Wide Black Side stripes
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: DeLorean in Crutchfield
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: re: hood question
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com

21. STAINLESS STEEL FASHAS...
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>

22. Luggage area re-paint
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

23. Re: Warm-up Regulator?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

24. Fuel Pump Head diff banjo
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 01:05:23 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Boston area service


Hello Tyler,

  You're in luck... The shop that has done a few repairs on my Delorean for
me, as well as it's previous owner is in Hopkinton - just a stone's throw
from Framingham.  They also claim to service "two or three" other Deloreans
in the area, so they are quite familiar with the car.  The previous owner of
#1619 swore by this shop and trusted them to repair all his vehicles.  I've
been there a few times, and they are a clean, honest, and good family
operation.  The name is: Lumber Street Auto Repair, 26 Lumber St, Hopkinton
MA 01748.  508-435-4046.  Ask for Phil (the owner), and tell them Hank
referred you.  I'm in Brookline, so the only problem I have is getting there
and back when my car needs work - I usually just wait there, since it's too
far to go home and back.

-Hank #1619


----- Original Message -----
From: <graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: [DML] Boston area service


> Hi all (Boston people in particular),
>
>    Luckily I'm not in need for any major repairs (hopefully for a
> while) but should a problem arise, where do you suggest that I get my
> service done locally? I live in Framingham. I'm capable of doing most
> little things myself, but engine, transmission, etc... are out of my
> league. Although if I have lots big problems I would probably send it
> to Houston. Any help would be great.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tyler
> # 3472
>




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 05:36:41 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: One year ago today...(may 4th 2000)

It's true, I've done it myself. I took the frame off my car in less 
than 2 hours....but I had someone help me. Putting it back on I did 
it myself and took less than and hour.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Flash66" <flash66_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi Nick,
> 
>      Is it true that you really seperated the body and frame in 4 
and 1/2
> hours ?
> Thats incredible. I thought it would be a much longer process.
> -Paul #16811
> 
> >     I just realized something....a year ago today...I separated 
the frame
> and
> > body on my car.  I can't believe that was a whole year ago and I 
am
> finally
> > driving it. Its been a long year.  Thats all for now, just 
thought the DML
> > would like to know that its been a year since I separated the 
frame and
> body.




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:11:17 +0100
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: re: hood question

The hood with gas flap was used until Aug 81. The highest vin number i have
seen with a gas flap was 3003. There was a very nice car on Ebay a while
ago, i think the vin was 3202, which did not have the flap. I believe a guy
on the list owns 3202.

Chris Spratt
Vin 16327

----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Mueller <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 1:03 PM
Subject: [DML] re: hood question


> I have gas flap and grooves.
> August 1981 Build
>
> Scott Mueller
> DMCNEWS 002981
> DOA 5031
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ryan Foster
>
>
> Kurt,
> I can for sure answer the grooved hood Question. They were the 81 model.
> The Gas flap hood was early '81.
>
> >From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec_at_dml_elroynet.com>
> >Also, what Deloreans were made with the hoods with the grooves?
> >
> >
> >Thanks
> >Dan
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:02:48 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..


Hello All,

  I'm attempting to repair my mirror switch, but since many of the smallest
parts are missing, I can't seem to reverse engineer how the switch itself
works.  I have the workshop manual with the circuit wiring diagram, but that
neither explains how the switch itself works, nor the workings/schematic of
the motors themselves.  There are four wires going into the motors, but no
explanation which wire is for which motor (up/down or left/right) or
polarity.  Any assistance or even simple explanation of how a working switch
operates would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

-Hank  #1619




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:13:29 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Tail light reflectors


Rick asked,
Anybody had to put their old taillight reflectors into new lenses?
------------------------------------------------------------------
The new taillights should come with the reflectors in them.

Robert Starling
Vin#05252






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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:24:43 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Varnish (Navagation Speed Up Tip)

To John and others with websites,

We all appreciate the help information displayed on your web pages. When suggesting to readers that they go to your sight to see a particular page, article, or picture it would be very helpful if you typed in the direct link to that page. This save lots of time hunting through your web site looking for the information you are talking about. For readers on a dial-up connection it can take several minutes to navigate to a particular page.

To accomplish this all you need to do is go the information at your sight that you want displayed in your message, copy the page address from your browser address bar and than paste it into you message. 

If you need more information on how to accomplish this time saving task contact me directly.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC.tv is in your future ........


"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN; USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/>
    
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 11:48 PM
  Subject: [DML] Fuel Varnish


  Group, I have been busy posting new products and problem solvers to 
  some of the old ones. Some people have never seen what some of the 
  problems look like so maby some of the things I'm doing will help. 
  Fuel varnish is real. You can see before and after. Look under Fuel 
  Systems. 
  John Hervey
  www.specialTauto.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:54:08 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Warm-up Regulator?

I was told that my car needs a new "Warm Up Regulator"  Is this the same as
an Idle Speed Regulator?

What is involved with replacing this unit?  It is as simple as replacing the
part (I'm sure the answer to that will be "No")
What else needs to be done when you replace this unit?  What else needs to
be tweaked/tuned upon it being replaced?

Kevin Abato
VIN# 16680




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:57:20 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Earthquake Mirror

My mirror on the driver side works great, except when I am moving, and I
look behind me, I feel like I am trying to outrun the BIG earthquake that CA
is supposed to get one day!

Any ideas on how to stop it from shaking like this?  How do I access the
inside of the mirror?  Do I just pull it straight off, or is there some kind
of secret mirror removal trick?




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:52:54 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..

Hank,

Good luck on your switch repair project. Keep in mind that this item is considered as non-serviceable. In any event here is some of the information you are looking for.

Wire Color Code
MIRROR MOTOR LH
WN: LEFT
WP: UP
WG: DOWN
W: RIGHT

MIRROR MOTOR RH
WN: LEFT
WP: UP
WU: DOWN
WR: RIGHT

All of the above contacts are 12 Volt +

CAUTION: Keep in mind that in some cases the wire color code between the switch and connector harness are different.

NOTE: We consider this item as non-serviceable; the switch will become unusable as designed if dissembled

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN; USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Hank Eskin 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:02 AM
  Subject: [DML] Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..



  Hello All,

    I'm attempting to repair my mirror switch, but since many of the smallest
  parts are missing, I can't seem to reverse engineer how the switch itself
  works.  I have the workshop manual with the circuit wiring diagram, but that
  neither explains how the switch itself works, nor the workings/schematic of
  the motors themselves.  There are four wires going into the motors, but no
  explanation which wire is for which motor (up/down or left/right) or
  polarity.  Any assistance or even simple explanation of how a working switch
  operates would be greatly appreciated.

  Thanks,

  -Hank  #1619



  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
  www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 

  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:09:47 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Stainless Treatment

I guarantee you're going to hate this.

In my other life, the vans tended to pick up all sorts of road garbage
on the back doors during a long trip.  In experimenting with everything
I had on hand I tried Dexron ATF, knowing it contains a detergent.
Don't you know, that worked great.  I then started using it to clean all
the grease and gunk from my engine compartment, that worked great too..

We now cut to the D.  I keep it covered but 4 adventurous cats manage to
get under the cover and match each other for greatest number of paw
prints.  Every time I uncover I have to clean it all off.  Started using
good old ATF, works just great.  Easy to apply, leaves a deep down shine
and easy to wipe off next time.  I use it on the louvers and other
plastic as well, looks great and gets a lot of compliments.

Now, before you go crazy, yes it does pick up dust, it would anyway,
it's just easier to keep looking good this way.

Don't just theorize, try it on a small panel and compare.  Wipe on
enough to clean the panel then wipe it as dry as you can and compare
with the rest of the car.

(No Swearing is allowed on the list!)




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:01:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: Quality of the 3M stripes


On Sat, 05 May 2001 12:32:28 -0500, James Esprey_at_dml_DMC.com wrote:

  "If the car had the stripes put on at the original selling dealer, they've
  been on the car for about 20 years, and if the car was a daily driver and
  has spent the better part of the last twenty years in the elements (rain,
  sun, etc) - that would account for their condition."
  
James look at my stripes on Tuesday, it is a daily driver and the stripes
have been on my car since I bought it new in 1982.  Little weathering but a
few dings.  As I said at the start of this thread, the car looks better with
the stripes than wothout by a long shot.
  
Dee-Moats_at_dml_excite.com





_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:10:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: re: hood question

Hey-

I own 3202..it is August 81 build and does not have the
flap..I heard the cut off for the flap was 3201-- darn!

It was exactly a year ago this week when my car was on
ebay, I am surprised someone remebered it...:)  

Aaron Posey
ETDOC
3202
--- chris <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> The hood with gas flap was used until Aug 81. The highest
> vin number i have
> seen with a gas flap was 3003. There was a very nice car
> on Ebay a while
> ago, i think the vin was 3202, which did not have the
> flap. I believe a guy
> on the list owns 3202.
> 
> Chris Spratt
> Vin 16327
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Mueller <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 1:03 PM
> Subject: [DML] re: hood question
> 
> 
> > I have gas flap and grooves.
> > August 1981 Build
> >
> > Scott Mueller
> > DMCNEWS 002981
> > DOA 5031
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ryan Foster
> >
> >
> > Kurt,
> > I can for sure answer the grooved hood Question. They
> were the 81 model.
> > The Gas flap hood was early '81.
> >
> > >From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec_at_dml_elroynet.com>
> > >Also, what Deloreans were made with the hoods with the
> grooves?
> > >
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >Dan
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team,
> please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team,
> please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:57:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment & Brakes

Responses contained below....

--- Walter <Whalt_at_dml_att.net> wrote:
> Doug,
> 
> >#1 - My front end pulls hard to Right.  Tire people
> >(with big machines) say the toe and camber are
> fine,
> >wheels are well balanced, but the casters are out.
> >One tire is in front of the other.  Techie did not
> see
> >how to adjust this.  How do you.
> 
> Does your car pull hard to the right all the time or
> only while you are
> braking?
RESPONSE -  Car pulls all the time.  Does NOT become
more pronounced while braking.

> From your symptoms, it sounds like you could have
> several separate problems:
> 
> Problem 1:  Put the front of your car on jacks and
> see if you can giggle
> your tires forward and backwards.  There should be
> no play this direction.
> If the connection is solid, then you might only have
> a bent front lower
> control arm (also called a 'lower link' part #
> 105177 in the parts manual).
> This would explain your caster problem, but I don't
> think it is the reason
> why your car is pulling hard to the right (when
> braking).
> 
> Problem 2:  If you get fore & aft movement in either
> tire, then your front
> lower control arm is loose.  Then your car could be
> pulling to the right
> (even while not braking) because your toe-in
> alignment is continually
> changing.  There are a few things that can cause
> this.  It could be the
> pivot bushing at the frame (part # 100154) or the
> anti-roll bar bushing
> (part # 108912).  Also, there was a recall
> concerning the nuts that hold the
> anti-roll bar to the front lower control arm. 
> Perhaps the recall wasn't
> performed on your car and this part has loosened up.
>  The threads on the
> ends of the anti-roll bar are supposed to be double
> nutted and painted blue
> (to more easily identify the recall).  If your car
> is missing this, then
> also suspect that the front crumple tube recall
> wasn't done either.  If this
> part comes loose while driving, then it would be
> very dangerous.
> 
> Problem 3:  Your car pulling hard to the right (only
> while braking) sounds
> like a brake caliper on the left side is not
> working.  Maybe it is leaking,
> seized up, has air in the line, bad fluid, etc. 
> Maybe a brake caliper on
> the right side is dragging to the point of
> overheating the rotor.
> 
> Problem 4: As for your brake pulsing, new pads
> aren't the cure.  It sounds
> like you have a warped brake rotor.  The way to fix
> it is to have a brake
> shop machine away the unevenness.  But this makes it
> thinner and more prone
> to warping a second time.  If you feel the pulse
> more in the steering wheel,
> then it is in the front brakes.  If you feel it more
> in the body, then it is
> the rear brakes.
RESPONSE - It seems the whole car pulses.  We shall
see.
> 
> Well, that used up my 1 hour for the day playing on
> the Internet.  Until
> tomorrow...
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Mechanic in Virginia??

If I cannot solve my current problems (with the car
that is) does anyone know a mechanic in the Norfolk -
Williamsburg Virginia area?  Or should I take up
bowling as a hobby.  Thanks.    -=DH=-

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 21:12:41
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Front pads & rotors


You can also use the pads from the MG B on the DeLorean.
I have them on mine, fits perfectly.

Part number is:
MINTEX MGB633AF M1136

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 18:20:26 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Warm-up Regulator?

Kevin,
The Warm Up Regulator, aka Control Pressure Regulator, is one of the easiest
parts to replace on the engine. Located on the left valve cover it is attached
with two socket head bolts. Label all of the hoses first and then remove them.
CAUTION: The two gas lines on top of the regulator will be under pressure. Use
some method to contain the small amount of gas that will leak out when you
loosen the bolts. It is advisable to keep a fire extinguisher handy when
breaking open the fuel system. Remove the two bolts holding the Warm Up
Regulator to the valve cover and lift off. Assemble the new regulator and hoses.
Make sure to use new copper washers on the fuel hoses on top. There are no other
adjustments required.

The "Idle Speed Regulator" is the black cylinder about the size of a frozen
orange juice can on the left top side of the engine.

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573

Kevin Abato wrote:

> I was told that my car needs a new "Warm Up Regulator"  Is this the same as
> an Idle Speed Regulator?
>
> What is involved with replacing this unit?  It is as simple as replacing the
> part (I'm sure the answer to that will be "No")
> What else needs to be done when you replace this unit?  What else needs to
> be tweaked/tuned upon it being replaced?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:00:44 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Quality of the 3M stripes

In a message dated 5/6/01 3:23:24 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Dee-Moats_at_dml_excite.com writes:


> James look at my stripes on Tuesday, it is a daily driver and the stripes
> have been on my car since I bought it new in 1982.  Little weathering but a
> few dings.  As I said at the start of this thread, the car looks better with
> the stripes than wothout by a long shot.
>   
> Dee-Moats_at_dml_excite.com
> 

in general, that's really a matter of opinion. personally, i think the side 
stripes make the car look more 80's if you know what i mean.  kind of dated. 
but to each their own!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:10:25 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Wide Black Side stripes

In a message dated 5/5/01 3:01:18 AM Central Daylight Time, 
scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net writes:


> 
> 20 DeLoreans all lined up at a show are not IDENTICAL.  That's why there are
> 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place trophy's ;>)
> 

besides - i could stare at 20 DeLoreans all day long even if they WERE 
identical~

andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:15:18 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean in Crutchfield

In a message dated 5/5/01 3:52:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com writes:


> I just got a Crutchfield catalog yesterday (Summer 2001) and as I was 
> flipping through it, I ran across a picture of a guy (Xelle L. Wyble, Jr. 
> in Panama City, FL) standing in front of his DeLorean.  This is on page 66 
> on the bottom right.  It doesn't say anything about him or the car.  If you 
> are on the list, Xelle, your car is looking good.
> 
> 


That's really funny because i called Crutchfield a few months ago asking if 
they had anything DeLorean-specific, especially a mounting kit, and the guy 
goes, 'ha! DeLorean! we don't have that stuff!' and he hung up on me. never 
called them again!

andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 23:31:10 -0000
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: re: hood question

> I own 3202..it is August 81 build and does not have the
> flap..I heard the cut off for the flap was 3201-- darn!

According to the DMC Houston Millenium Concours Judging Manual,
http://www.usadmc.com/files/handbook.pdf
the last car manufactured with a fuel filler flap was 3200.

John Yeoman





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:09:48 -0500
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>
Subject: STAINLESS STEEL FASHAS...

    Here it is in a nut shell...

        There is a customer of ours that specializes in custom fabrications. I asked him if he could reproduce the front and rear fashas in stainless for me. He came over and looked at the car Saturday and said it wouldn't be a problem but the cost would be significant. I asked him if I could get a few more people interested, could he lower the costs. He told me that if I could get at least 5 more people interested, me could get me a reasonable price for this hand crafted job. They wouldn't be exact to the origionals, but they would continue the natural lines of the car! If you are interested in how much they would be, drop me a note _at_dml_ skipper_at_dml_sk1pper.com .


    skipper landry
    vin 10246
    www.sk1pper.com 


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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 21:00:50 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Luggage area re-paint

What would be the best paint to use if I wanted to freshen up the front
luggage area under the bonnet?  It's looking a bit mottled from release
agents used in making it (I assume).  Would Krylon work?  I want it to
look uniform in the entire compartment.

Thanks

Tom
#005732  MT




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 22:09:36 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Warm-up Regulator?

Kevin, Why do they say you need a new CPR.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 02:27:18 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Fuel Pump Head diff banjo

Group, I posted on the site the two differences in the puel pumps 
heads and also a problem you may encounter when changing from the 
long neck to the 957 with new check valve. You can see on my site: 
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.htm
Thanks to DMC Joe for thinking of this and letting me know.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
P.S. I you don't have his Air Bleeder Fix, summer is coming. It's 
great. Were getting hot here in Texas.     




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