From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 535
Date: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 8:59 AM

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: speedo..

2. Re: Mechanic in Virginia??

3. Re: Warm-up Regulator?

4. Re: Stuck passenger door.

5. Speedo problem, please tell me this isn't true!

6. Re: Mechanic in Virginia??

7. Re: mirror switch followup
From: "Hank Eskin" <>

8. RE: DeLorean in Crutchfield
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <>

9. Re: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..
From: Bob Brandys <>

10. Last call for nose bras

11. Re: speedo..
From: Henry Breer <>

12. fuel pump
From: "Drinkware" <>

13. Show on Speedvision

14. Re: Luggage area re-paint
From: "DMC Joe" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 23:57:53 EDT
Subject: Re: speedo..

Hi List,    

The same problem happended on my D last year.  The hole in the plastic cap 
had become round insted of square (normal wear I would assume).  I was able 
to epoxy the cap to the cable, and the speedo has worked perfectly ever since.



Message: 2
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 04:04:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Mechanic in Virginia??

You might want to call one of the Delorean venders as they have some 
working arangements with shops they have shipped parts to in the past 
and had repaired other "D's". There is a shop in Perkasie Pa. if that 
is not too far. I know for a fact that P.J. Grady has walked mechanics 
in antique and classic shops through many problems and once the 
trouble is diagnosed shipped the needed parts next day UPS. What are 
you "current problems" and maybe the list can help!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> If I cannot solve my current problems (with the car
> that is) does anyone know a mechanic in the Norfolk -
> Williamsburg Virginia area?  Or should I take up
> bowling as a hobby.  Thanks.    -=DH=-
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 04:10:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Warm-up Regulator?

Before you go replacing the control pressure regulater what are your 
symptoms? Did you verify voltage and a good connection at the black 
plug? Did you make sure that the short vent hose is not 
kinked-blocked? There was a post a while back about someone who had a 
problem with his regulater so he disassembled it and found a spider 
inside. After cleaning and reassembly he was fine!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I was told that my car needs a new "Warm Up Regulator"  Is this the 
same as
> an Idle Speed Regulator?
> What is involved with replacing this unit?  It is as simple as 
replacing the
> part (I'm sure the answer to that will be "No")
> What else needs to be done when you replace this unit?  What else 
needs to
> be tweaked/tuned upon it being replaced?
> Kevin Abato
> VIN# 1668


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 09:47:55 -0000
Subject: Re: Stuck passenger door.

I can't figure out why since the bell crank didn't move back any 
further once I disconnected the cable. But the door unlocked and 
opened! The sheath of the door cable had been caught, and streched 
the cable out a little farther. So this appears to be what was 
causing the locking problem. Although after that, my door wouldn't 
latch properly. After reseating the cable cover, the door works 
perfectly! Plus now it the lock and the door handles are MUCH lighter 
to pull then they were before.

I also did as other list members reccomended and pushed the interior 
door handle down to reverse the bell crank to unlock the door. Even 
that didn't work.

But now every thing is back to normal and progressing fine. MANY 
thanks to DMC Joe for solving my problem, and to my fellow list 
members who took time out to write me to help me out!

vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Robert,
> Try this first step to release your door lock. Locate the exterior 
door handle cable where it attaches to the latch release link bell 
crank which is located just above the interior door release handle. 
Push the bellcrank back to allow you to detach the cable ball end 
from the bellcrank. Check to see if the lock releases. Let me know 
the result.
> DMC Joe
> "We're here to help you"
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> Web Site: <>


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:51:11 -0000
Subject: Speedo problem, please tell me this isn't true!

Hello all,

Yesterday we had a GREAT clubmeeting hosted by the DeLorean Club 
Netherlands (DCN) the drive to and from the meet was very nice and 
since it was sunday traffica was quite light, so I drove the car at 
somewhat higher speeds (peeking at about 120Mph at one point) than I 
normally do and on this occasion for a longer stretch too...

Above 100Mph I heard a high pitched sound coming from in front of me, 
at first I thought it was the air whistling through the 
windshieldwipers, but operating them didn't change the sound at all. 
The speedometer was my second guess, since it WAS "pegged out", but 
I've drive 100+Mph before without trouble or noise.

When I was about 400meters from my house I had to use my indicator and 
as I moved my hand toward the lever I SAW the spedometer drop to zero.
It never rose again, so I suspected the drive had failed on me, even 
though I'd lubed it shortly after I bought the car 7 months ago and had 
even lubed it last week when I was working on my horns.

I took a look  to see where the problem was;
whipping the upper Speedo-cable (just above the Lambdacounter) made the 
needle jump, so that seems OK. Lifting the left wheel and spinning it 
didn't make the lower cable move (just below the Lambdacounter), so I 
took off the left wheel to inspect the angledrive.

Upon removal of the wheel my problem was clear immediately: the plastic 
cap that is pinched between the wheel and the hub fell out with a piece 
of cable attached to it and the other end stuck inside the hub.

In the partsmanual it looks like this piece of cable is part of the 
angle-drive (ADAPTER,SPEEDO CABLE is the official term used).
Do I actually have to buy this $189.50 assy just because of this piece 
of &%$^$#%_at_dml_$!-cable that snapped?

I allready know what caused it to snap I think: I had the left front 
wheelbearing replaced two weeks ago and it seems like the cable broke 
when they tried to remove the plastic cap (is this the Dustshield, 
part# 105104 or am I wrong here?); the broken-off bit was in there 
REALLY stuck: had to use a couple of pliers and pull very hard to get 
it out. Probaly can't even blame them: mine was the first DeLorean they 
ever worked on and even though they probably DID break my speedo-drive, 
the rest of the engine work they did is great, so I WILL go back to 
them next time I need an annual inspection or other service.

If any one can tell me if there's another way to fix this other that 
replacing the angledrive, plese let me know.

Thanks in advance,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

Check out the DeLorean-Files at:


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:59:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Mechanic in Virginia??

Richmond may be a bit far, but I've taken my D to Bill Ferguson at Ferguson 
Auto Service on Sheppard St. for nearly 15 years.  What sold me initially was 
when I walked into his shop for the first time and asked him if he was 
comfortable working on DeLoreans.  Without a word, he reached up to a shelf 
and took down a DeLorean service manual.  The place is not perfect, but then 
what service place is?

Worth talking to Bill any way ... 804-358-0006

Tell him Groucho sent you!

Paul Feine
# 10944


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:55:48 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <>
Subject: Re: mirror switch followup

Hello All,

  I'm still obsessed with my mirror switch problem.  Can someone explain how
the switch/mirror function with respect to the LEFT and UP movements?
According to the wiring diagram at M:18:18, it appears as if the both
mirrors are controlled by the same lead (White/Purple WP and White/Brown
WN), except for the addition of those two  capacitors on the right mirror,
wouldn't both mirrors move up if +12V is applied to either of these two
leads?  I'm not sure how those capacitors function to direct the current on
either lead to the proper mirror, and not both.  And since I don't have  a
functioning switch or switch schematic, I can't test it myself, and I'm not
an EE.


-Hank  #1619


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:22:17 -0700
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <>
Subject: RE: DeLorean in Crutchfield

And then he hung up on you? Are you sure you called Crutchfield? I've always
found their customer service to be /excellent/. Never a problem, in fact
they've gone out of their way to make me happy. They don't have the best
prices available but quality, attention to detail & the best customer
service I've received anywhere more than makes up for it. If someone laughed
and hung up on you, my guess is you called the wrong phone number.

| , |      ___   ___ _  -- Ryan P. Wright, MCP
| _/__  __/ _ \ |   | | -- Web Operations Analyst, Lamb-Weston, Inc.
|   \ \/ / /_\ \| | | | -- Email:
|_|\_\  /_/---\_\_|___| -- 

-----Original Message-----
From: []
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] DeLorean in Crutchfield

That's really funny because i called Crutchfield a few months ago asking if 
they had anything DeLorean-specific, especially a mounting kit, and the guy 
goes, 'ha! DeLorean! we don't have that stuff!' and he hung up on me. never 
called them again!

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:28:41 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..

> Hank,

If the switch is not repairable you can replace it with a GM type from the late 80's e.g pontiac 6000.  Its grey and black so it goes with any interior.  Wiring logic is
the same. You can build you own adapter and fit it in the door.



Message: 10
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 14:52:53 EDT
Subject: Last call for nose bras

Last weekend was the order deadline, and I'm happy to say we've reached our 
minimum number target for Colgan Custom DeLorean nose bras. So, we have 
enough to place an order  :)  If you've been thinking about getting one, 
consider this your last call, and contact me privately at deloreanernst <at> No more will be manufactured this year!

Still living the dream!
vin 11174


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:57:47 -0700
From: Henry Breer <>
Subject: Re: speedo..


You may have set yourself up for a more expensive repair down the road.  That is
not the end of the speedometer cable that you epoxied to.  It is the input shaft
for the angle drive.  The dust shield (p/n 105104) is a $15.00 part.  The angle
drive (p/n 106130) is $240.00 part.

Normally, if the angle drive fails, the shaft freezes and will break off the sides
of the square hole in the dust cap and make it round.  But often the angle drive
can be removed, disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and saved.  With the two
epoxied together, I doubt that you can even remove the angle drive.

Hank Breer
VIN 1141 wrote:

> Hi List,
> The same problem happended on my D last year.  The hole in the plastic cap
> had become round insted of square (normal wear I would assume).  I was able
> to epoxy the cap to the cable, and the speedo has worked perfectly ever since.
> Andy


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:35:15 -0400
From: "Drinkware" <>
Subject: fuel pump

[moderators note: Remember, one of the jobs the RPM relay does is look for the RPM's to pick up when the engine starts. If it doesn't see this within a specific time it shuts off the fuel pump. With the pump running outside the realm of the RPM relay you may very likely flood the engine]

2 different people  and I fixed mine 2 ways.
#1 way -  small toggle switch installed under the ashtray; wire from pump to toggle switch; wire frrom toggle switch to #11 fuse with an inline 20 amp fuse; bypasses the rpm relay; wire from fuel pump to the inertia switch (before); downside is the pump is on when the ignition is on; in the event of an accident = problem!

#2 way - 2 new wire end connections on the pump;  replace inertia switch, new RPM relay, maybe also clean harness ground wire.

by doing both, I feel I will never have a dead fuel pump, but must keep the switch off unless a problem arises and the pump doesn't work --------  a short time fix and in an emergency situation only. 

However, I ain't no mechanic!!

Marvin Stein
vin 4239
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 16:42:58 EDT
Subject: Show on Speedvision

There was a show on Speedvision, called Classics, where they were at a 
classic car auction. When they were showing cars being auctioned, there was a 
pre-production DeLorean, with no louvres, different interior, sliding 
windows, and no grille. 

I didn't hear how much it went for, but the guy who bought it said it was 
cool for a collector guy because not many had a pre-production DeLorean.

John Feldman
VIN 4275

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 05:25:58 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Luggage area re-paint

Krylon Semi Flat Black is the correct answer.


"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Watkins Family 
  To: DMC News list 
  Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 9:00 PM
  Subject: [DML] Luggage area re-paint

  What would be the best paint to use if I wanted to freshen up the front
  luggage area under the bonnet?  It's looking a bit mottled from release
  agents used in making it (I assume).  Would Krylon work?  I want it to
  look uniform in the entire compartment.


  #005732  MT

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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