From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 554
Date: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:44 AM

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. clutch slave cylinder
From: "Ryan Foster" <>

2. Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: "Hank Eskin" <>

3. Craig Radio Display Repair
From: Les Huckins <>

4. Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem
From: "John Rahn" <>

5. Stolen Keys
From: Felix S <>

6. Weakest Link mention
From: "Hank Eskin" <>

7. Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem

8. Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem

9. Re: Relay update instructions unclear?

10. Re: Delorean for sale
From: Bob Brandys <>

11. Re: Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem
From: "John Rahn" <>

12. Re: Stolen Keys
From: "Walter" <>


Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 19:17:49
From: "Ryan Foster" <>
Subject: clutch slave cylinder

Hi list,
  Could anybody inform me on what the OEM manufactuer of the clutch slave 
cylinder is? I was hopeing to find a rebuild kit for it if possible. Thanks.

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 17:31:47 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <>
Subject: Question about on-car spin balancing tires

Hello all,

  I've just received my four new Yoko's AVS Intermediates.  I plan on taking
them and my D to a location that performs the "on car spin balancing" of the

Question #1: Do the tires/wheels need to be separately spin balanced BEFORE
mounting on the car to be "on-car" balanced, or should they just mount the
tires on the wheels, mount the wheels on the car, and then spin balance them
on the car?

Question #2:  They claim they can only "on-car" spin balance the front
wheels.  Is this correct?


-Hank  #1619


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:29:12 -0700
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Craig Radio Display Repair

OK group, please check this before it gets nailed on the DML page.  Is
it clear?   Anys suggestions or criticisms?  (It will include pictures
but for now just the text needs looking over) Thanks.

Les Huckins wrote:

> To effectively repair the display on the Craig radio, the flex cable
> must be replaced.  To do this two things are required, number one is
> the ability to solder to printed circuit boards, this is advanced
> soldering (I use a 30 watt iron with a pointed tip from Radio Shack
> cost is about $7).  Second item is very flexible wire.  Suggested
> wire  is sub miniature, 18 strand copper, made to flex continuously.
> The plastic insulation is also a special  (limp) compound to aid in
> flexing.  In removing the front bezel and top cover, note the 4 screws
> in the front (bezel) are smaller than those on the top cover.  The
> display rod is swedged in place on the left, gently pry it open enough
> to release the rod.  The return spring must be released from the
> chassis tab (where it's cemented in place) in order not to stress it
> during removal. from the display assembly.  Note the amount of tension
> on the return spring and it's location at the display.  Cut the flex
> cable off about where the crease (break) has occurred.  Solder about a
> 3" length of wire to each of the 16 connections on the back of the
> display.  Per the picture, place them in order and cement them to the
> vertical metal pieces on the back of the display.  I use Radio-TV
> service cement (because I have a lot of it) but it's not critical,
> Duco or a lot of others would work as well.  Per the picture, general,
> not critical, routing of the wires.  I use a film of cement on the
> wires where they exit the display to keep them in order until soldered
> to the radio.  As each wire is readied to be soldered in place it's
> pulled loose from the cement film.   How long should the leads be?
> It's not very critical, the wire is very forgiving, however, after
> doing several, this is my choice.  With the display now back in place,
> rod back but not swedged yet, spring connected but not cemented yet,
> the display is slightly forward of it's normal position.  Measure out
> each wire in turn, soldering as you go, so that the wire just reaches
> it's companion spot on the top of the radio, not tight, just sort of a
> lazy fit.  That's pretty much it, observe the very small amount of
> movement before you put it all back together.  Connect it to a power
> source, make sure it lights as it should.  Tighten the swedge, put a
> drop of cement on the return spring at the tab.  This should be the
> final solution to this particular problem.  As to the wire, it's comes
> in minimum 100' rolls, if you want to try this I'll sell you enough to
> do one for $4.  If you want to take up this repair as a business, I'll
> give you the name of the vendor and the number of the wire.  If you
> would like me to make the repair for you e-mail me:
>     Les Huckins


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:01:54 -0500
From: "John Rahn" <>
Subject: Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem


Thanks for the reply.  Yeah, I took it out, ran continuity checks on the switch and as much circuitry as possible and still could'nt find the problem.  So, I bought a Kenwood for a replacement.  Now, if I can just find one of those replacement faceplates cut to DIN specs. I'll be set (maybe).



----- Original Message -----
> From: Les Huckins
> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 2:50 PM
> To:
> Subject: Re: [DML] 1981 Craig Radio Problem
[moderator snip]
> Assuming the button springs in and out like the AM it's probably not a switch problem.  Your next hope would be a poor solder connection at the switch circuit board...not likely.

[moderator snip]


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:59:23 -0800
From: Felix S <>
Subject: Stolen Keys

    I lost a set of my keys, Someone must have found them and kept them.
Now I cannot drive my Delorean without being super paranoid that someone is
waiting to take my car.  I want to get both locks replaced, what would you
all recommend, and how much would it cost me?  Can any aftermarket locks be
used?  Volvo locks?




Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:20:10 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <>
Subject: Weakest Link mention

[Moderator Note: Amusing post approved because the list is slow this week.]

I may not be the first one to "report in", but this question just appeared
on The Weakest Link:

"Introduced  in 1981, which stainless steel sports car shares its name with
the man who created it?"

The contestant correctly answered the question.

-Hank #1619


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:35:49 EDT
Subject: Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem

John, No Idea without looking, Hope it's nothing broken. I can't find parts 
unless you have an old radio. I'm looking for old radios for parts.


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 04:14:18 -0000
Subject: Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem

John and Group, I have diagrams on the Craig Radio, If it's not a 
mechanical problem with the switch or a bad solder joint it could be 
a bad chip in the circuit. If a local repair shop can't fix it. I 
would be glad to take a look at it for you.They are good radios even 
without a few of the modern updates. With good speakers, they can be 
very loud and reproduce good quality.
John hervey

 --- RIn dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "John Rahn" <john_rahn_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Hello,
> I just purchased an '81 DeLorean vin#06163.  The "FM" button on the 
radio does not work (you push it but the radio stays in the AM 
[moderator snip]
> John L. Rahn


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 04:28:14 -0000
Subject: Re: Relay update instructions unclear?

Ryan , It's unfortuniate that the ground wires burnt. I to have spent 
the better part of a day, undoing the wires that melted together and 
tracing them back into the loom and repairing the loom.New connectors 
and wire. It's also unfortuniate that the ground wire that is common 
to the relays isn't fused. I have sinced fused the common wire so 
what I did won't happen again. You and others may want to consider 
that.Yes, You have to cut the black ground wire going thru the loom 
and splice in a fuse holder, but if you have ever had to take the 
wires out and clean and replace them, I think it's worth it.
John hervey

"Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
[moderator snip]
> Since I've installed the relay update kit I had the 
> common ground wire Melt but I am unsure if it is due
> to the kit or some other electrical item.


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 09:27:44 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: Delorean for sale

Chris Gossett

Has a Delorean for sale

VIN 7105
116K miles
Grey interior  (worn)
5 speed
runs fine
$600 parts upgrade from PJ Grady

small crease in SS in passenger fender and door at bottom

Car in barn in Michigan near Chicago

PH  708-482-7464


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 09:57:33 -0500
From: "John Rahn" <>
Subject: Re: Re: 1981 Craig Radio Problem


Thanks, I put it on the shelf and installed a Kenwood replacement with a CD.



[long quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 13:42:53 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Stolen Keys

What you do depends on whether your D is the earlier two-key system or the
later one-key system.  If you have the two-key system, you will have a very
hard time re-keying the door locks because they are cheap and almost
impossible not to break while disassembling them.  It also requires a
special too to remove them from the door.  Usually people end up just
breaking them out since they are hard to re-use even if removed properly.
The one-key system uses the same key for the doors and the ignition.  I am
unfamiliar with what it takes to re-key one-key original one-key system door
locks.   My car now has installed reproduction one-key system door locks
from PJ Grady.  They look almost identical to the original one-key system
door locks except the key hole is shaped slightly different.  It is a jagged
line instead of a straight line.  Many people (like myself) with earlier D's
with the two-key system have had to 'upgrade' their locks to the one-key
system simply because the original two-key system door locks are not very
durable.  To convert a two-key system car to a one-key system is fairly
simple.  You need to cut/file some new notches in the stainless steel door
skin, but the notches remain hidden under the new lock.  If you go to the
expense to buy new one-key system door locks from a vendor, spend the extra
bucks and have them re-keyed properly to your ignition key.  Since you want
to replace your ignition key as well, you might want to buy a whole set or
ship your locks to a vendor.  Remember that the hidden compartment behind
the driver's seat is keyed like the ignition, and it will need to be changed

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Felix S <>
To: <>
Date: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:26 AM
Subject: [DML] Stolen Keys

>    I lost a set of my keys, Someone must have found them and kept them.
>Now I cannot drive my Delorean without being super paranoid that someone is
>waiting to take my car.  I want to get both locks replaced, what would you
>all recommend, and how much would it cost me?  Can any aftermarket locks be
>used?  Volvo locks?


Message: 13
Date: 24 May 2001 07:02:00 -0000

We would like to remind you of this upcoming event.


Date: Friday, May 25, 2001 
Time: All Day




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