From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 556
Date: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:31 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DCO Newsletter PDF
From: Shannon Yocom <ss_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Re: Correct phone number
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

3. Eurofest-First Pictures
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. Auto VS. Manual
From: azb888_at_dml_cs.com

5. Expensive e-mail in U.K.!!!!
From: "TMasterLC_at_dml_msn.com" <tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com>

6. Re: DeLorean known issues
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

7. Re: Hard Starting.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

8. Re: DeLorean known issues
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

9. Re: clutch slave cylinder
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

10. Web-adresses in posts
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl

11. Plastic Header Bottle question
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

13. Re: Stolen Keys
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: Hard Starting.
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: patrickdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com

16. Purolator fuel filter - better?
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

17. Re: Plastic Header Bottle question
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

18. Eurofest Update2
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

19. Re: Auto VS. Manual
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

20. Lambda light
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

21. Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

22. Re: Re: Hard Starting.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Re: DeLorean known issues
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl

24. Fuel filter pictures uploaded
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

25. Re: Lambda light
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:58:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ss_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DCO Newsletter PDF

To all,
I've just put up the DeLorean Club of Ohio Newsletter on the web if anyone would like to see what is going on in Ohio.
It is here:
http://www.wcnet.org/~delorean/page_layouts/DCO_May_2001.pdf

If you have Adobe Acrobat Reader it should open automatically.

You will need at least Adobe Acrobat Reader 3.0 to view it. You can get the latest viewer for FREE here:
(Mac, PC etc.)
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

Shannon Yocom
VIN# Not Yet!

_____________________________________________________________
YourName_at_dml_delorean.com -- it's free from <a href="http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:11:21 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: Correct phone number

The correct phone number for Chris Gossett Delorean for sale

708-482-7646

Bob





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:20:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Eurofest-First Pictures

To all,

I believe we have the first picture from the big show; check it out: <deloreanservices.com>

DMC Joe dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net

"We're here to help you"

De Lorean Services  <delorean_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....   

[Moderator Note: because this picture appears automatically when you visit the url indicated, this is not a violation of our commercial posting policy.]



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:05:23 EDT
From: azb888_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Auto VS. Manual

HI,

I am hoping to one day live the dream like so many and get my delorean.  I 
know for a sportier look to go with a manual but if you want luxury go with 
the automatic.  I have heard thought that the computers on the automatic 
DMC's have some problems.  Is this true and if so what is a better buy???

Ali 



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:52:17 -0500
From: "TMasterLC_at_dml_msn.com" <tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Expensive e-mail in U.K.!!!!

Just a quick warning for everyone with notebook computers at EuroFest... It's not free, like in the U.S.!  (i.e. regular monthly phone service and monthly Internet service provider).  If you're like me, and you hang on-line while you're typing, you'll get a $150.00 US charge to your hotel bill, just like I did!  Ops... I didn't know!  They tell me it's that way whether you connect from your hotel or home in the U.K. and I found it out the hard way in London yesterday.  The hourly rates at the Internet Cafe is suppose to be the most reasonable, or just send/receive and make it quick!  ...speaking from experience!




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:02:30 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: DeLorean known issues

[Moderator Note:  The following is the opinion of author.  It is possible to live comfortably without some of these updates, and I expect this list to generate a storm of comments about specific items.  Thank you for posting it, David Teitelbaum.]

Here is a list of some of the "known" things to do

3 recalls (if not already done)

tankzilla,lockzilla,fanzilla

trailing arm bolts

ducey alternater (if equiped)

any coolant leaks

plastic header bottle

loose connections in fuse block

cooling fan and circ fan breakers

origional radiater w/ plastic tanks

hydraulic line for clutch

old brake fluid-old anti-freeze

angle drive for speedo and lube lowe cable

old door struts

deteriorated rubber fuel system parts

muffler bracket on right rear

if automatic-shift computer

bead sealer for spare tire

emergency release cables for hood and engine cover

tail light circuit boards

clean all ground connections


Some items are just age related but most are specific to the Delorean. These are among the most common things that I would consider necessary 
to make the Delorean a RELIABLE and safe daily driver. Many of the items can be done by most owners so it is just the cost of the parts 
but others can be expensive if you have to get professional labor to do them. This is also assuming that the car is in "reasonable" 
running shape and doesn't need a lot of cosmetic work such as headliners, binnacle. seats, rugs, etc. Some owners may disagree with 
some items but these are all problem areas that have shown themselves over time. Sometimes the low mileage cars need the most work because 
the problems never came to light so it never received any upgrades! The Delorean is no more troublesome than any other 20+ year old car 
that you would want to turn into a daily driver, mileage is not everything, time also works against you.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Is there a list anywhere of the "known" issues that
> goes wrong with Delorean's?
> 
> My D has approx 4,000 miles on it... so the engine
> should be in near new shape.. it looks it and runs
> it...
> 





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:12:38 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Hard Starting.

I know exactly what you mean! The only part of the car I have not yet 
worked on is the heating & A/C. The background on the fuel system is 
that every single piece was replaced (or supposed to have been) to 
restore the car to running order. MANY things I ran accross were not 
changed out or repaired, even though I was told they were. But 
everything is brand new on the fuel system from the pump to the 
injectors. Inspecting how new every single part looked seemed to 
concur with their short age. I don't have an inherintly bad car. It's 
incompetent workmanship by past mechanics resulting in failure of 
components that were supposed to be 'new' that has made my car turn 
into the "DeLorean from Hell." But there is a light a the end of the 
tunnel finally that I'll reach soon (problem is that I have to keep 
pulling over for gas and repairs!).

Anyhow, I had this starting problem last summer, but brushed it off 
on the ignition system not working properly. This has really thrown a 
monkey wrench into my plans since I'm now gearing up to perform the 
remainder of the 30K mile service on my car and then some. In the 
mean time I'll just splice into place a push button switch to 
activate the cold start valve from the drivers seat. That way I don't 
have to get out of the car to swap plugs. A temporary fix that I'll 
connect to the hot start relay (once installed) so I can control the 
firing of the cold start valve for only when I need it.

Mechanic's bills do add up pretty quick for any car, which is why I 
ended up being my own mechanic for all of my vehicles. Thanks for the 
insight as to other areas to inspect as well. I'll run everything by 
my mechanic who's both early Volvo, and DeLorean factory certified. 
We'll see what we can come up with. Although at this time a pressure 
test as well as other diagnostics have not been run. As much as I'd 
like to swap out the distributor with another from pick-a-part, I 
can't. I've gone to 3 seperate junk yards, and all the 260's & 760's 
have already had their disributors removed! I don't know if it's 
because of any kind of a failure rate, or just the fact that the part 
is so valuable!

But one thing is that I don't understand how the replacement of an 
entire distributor could have solved your problem. The distributor 
itself is not responsible for any type of fuel pressure retention. 
Less of course the Primary Pressure Regulator. If there was a bad seal
(s) in the unit, I could understand how it would have been able to 
bleed off pressure 'forwards' thru the system via the return fuel 
line. But I also imagine that it could have been replaced by itself 
without the entire distributor. If I am wrong, someone please correct 
me.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., SGSKBM_at_dml_a... wrote:
<SNIP>
> I had the exact same problem and I replaced vitually every 
component 
> in the car at DMC in Garden Grove!  The bills were staggering!  The 
> car would not hold presure after a shut down, and this is important 
> for it to do so as to not vapor lock on a restart when hot.
<SNIP>




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:15:40 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean known issues

As is with any DeLorean question be about the Man, the Car, or the 
Company, there is no quick and simple answer to be given. Only 
insight. Known issues issues with the DeLorean car fall into 2 main 
catergories: Inherient, and age related. Inherient would be things 
such as factory recalls, known 'quirks', etc... Age related are 
things such as water hoses, fuel lines, etc... I don't know if it's 
due to certain items having an average life span, or because when one 
person mentions a problem others speak up about theirs as well. But 
it seems that folks usually have simular problems with specific 
components on their cars at the same time wheather it's age or milage 
related.

Another aspect are things that were at one time problems, but due to 
newer technology have been cured. A couple of years ago when I went 
to Harrah's auto museum in Reno, Nevada to see the 24K AMEX D, I 
picked up a copy of the DeLorean Gold Portfolio. The book is an 
excellent read and is chocked full of both great facts and opinions. 
But sadly, it is quite a bit out dated. The book and the articles 
contained within were compiled at a time when information was not as 
abundant as it is today about the car. One of the articles makes a 
mention that the owner loved his car, but never locked the doors 
while driving for fear of being locked in because of what was 
percieved as a problem with the power door locks sticking. So the man 
stated that he never locked his doors because he didn't want to get 
stuck inside the car. In the time since, it is now commonly know that 
the problem was solenoids getting burned out by sticking relays. Now 
we have both a do-it-yourself repair, and replacement component 
(lockzilla) to cure the issue. Other problems with the car were 
simply confusions with other marquees, or outright misinformation.

I'm guessing that you want the list to see what you should prepare 
for repair wise. That in itself is not a question that can easily be 
answered since no two cars are alike. Plus chance can play a big part 
too. But here is an idea to get you started: The car is almost 20 
years old, so things such as rubber seals and hoses will need to be 
replaced if not done already (ie: your coolant leak). Your car will 
not be a daily driver, so can skip over items such as improved heat 
shields, 3-layer radiator, centerforce clutch, semi-metaic brake 
pads, etc... Other items such as the angle drive only need regular 
servicing and lubrication to operate correctly no matter what you 
drive you car for. Compare these items to both your budget and desire 
for what you want the car to be. Once you know what you want, you'll 
know what path to take in your repairs. For example, you said that 
you'll need new locks and a fuel pump boot. What has lead you to that 
determination? Even if these items do require replacement of some 
sort, you yourself may be able to complete the repair.

Myself, I have the opposite attitude about about my car. I'm trying 
to rack up as many miles as I can. People always said I'd never own a 
D. Once I got one, they said I've never keep it on the road. For me, 
it's a personal thing (I'm determined to prove them wrong!). My first 
year of ownership has just passed, and I've already clocked over 
12,000 miles onto my DeLorean. By doing this I keep my car in a daily 
driver condition. So I have to plan ahead for what will wear out with 
not just age, but heavier usage. And when I replace items, I usually 
go for those that can survive the long haul. For a car who's purpose 
is more for show, you probably don't need certain upgraded and more 
expensive parts. Plus you can switch around the priorites for what 
needs to be repaired/replaced/upgraded first.

In conclusion, the best person to answer your question is you. Spend 
some time with your car and get to know it better. Another thing to 
do is monitor the DML. If one person is describing a recent problem 
and repair with their car, go over your car. Find out what they are 
describing in appearance, function, and symptom. That's the best way 
to become familiar with your car, and to get more enjoyment from it! 
For what you have described as the car's purpose for your usage, and 
it's condition, you are almost at the end. As you said in your 
posting, you're "...at the point where...(you)...need to do 
something..." Let's first start with diagnosing and repairing that 
coolant leak. That is the first step for both you and your car...

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Is there a list anywhere of the "known" issues that
> goes wrong with Delorean's?
<SNIP>
> It's vin 855, single key lock... I just dont lock my
> doors because it's a gamble if they will come unlocked
> (so I am told).
> 
> interior is perfect.... the car physically is pretty
> much perfect.
> 
> I'm at a point I need to do something.... I can't
> drive it again because of the tiny cooling leak in the
> front...
<SNIP>




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:17:51 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: clutch slave cylinder

As far as I know, there is no rebuild kit for either the master nor 
the slave clutch cylinders. You best bet is to just by a new one if 
you are replacing the system.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi list,
>   Could anybody inform me on what the OEM manufactuer of the clutch 
slave 
> cylinder is? I was hopeing to find a rebuild kit for it if 
possible. Thanks.
> 
>                          Ryan- vin.#16301
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:01:09 -0000
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl
Subject: Web-adresses in posts

Hello everyone,

I may appear to be a total nitpicker, but I would like to urge
everyone to FULLY write down suggested internet-addresses.
By fully I mean including HTTP://

If you do so, your link will appear as a link in most mail-programs AND it will be a clickable link when reading messages on the web.
Only downside is that in some cases yahoogroups puts a linebreak in the link so it doesn't work, you see this in a lot of (long) 
ebay-links.

When posting on-line (not by email) you can see if this happens by using the "preview"-button.

Thanks for the effort,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:11:29 EDT
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Plastic Header Bottle question

Regarding the recall on the plastic header bottles: Can someone tell me why 
the plastic bottles weren't sufficient for the the Delorean?  Was it just a 
defective design of the Delorean's specific bottle?  How exactly did they 
fail?  I ask because I've seen many other cars that utilize plastic bottles.  
(Presurized, like the D.)  

Part of my project will involve relocation  and replacement of the bottle and 
I'd like a little background on the plastic bottle problem.

Thanks,
    Steve  
    VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
    www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:27:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires

David,

I respectfully disagree with your statement: "if you attempt to spin balance the rear tires on the car you risk damaging the final drive". We have been spin balancing DeLorean tires on the car since 1983 and have never had any type of mechanical problems to the drive train.

You also said: "It is also better to balance the tire off the car because if you ever remove the tire you MUST put it back on EXACTLY in the same position ......." This should not be an issue when considering the benefits of an "on the car" spin balance.

BTW: Here is a simple solution for correct tire replacement orientation. When removing the tire mark the position of the air valve by replacing only the lug nut that is adjacent to the air valve. This will enable you to replace the tire in the orientation it was balanced in.   

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: DeLorean Services.com
DMC.tv is in your future.....   

[moderator snip]



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:22:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Stolen Keys

Felix,

Mike is correct when he talks about the possibility of you DeLorean being stolen. But to make you feel more comfortable here is a quick temporary fix that should solve your problem. Whenever you leave your car unattended reach under the dash board and pull the plunger button "up" on your inertia switch, this will prevent the car from being started.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <DeLorean Services.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....   


  [moderator snip]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:51:08 -0000
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hard Starting.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
> 
> But one thing is that I don't understand how the replacement of an 
> entire distributor could have solved your problem. The distributor 
> itself is not responsible for any type of fuel pressure retention. 
> Less of course the Primary Pressure Regulator. If there was a bad 
seal
> (s) in the unit, I could understand how it would have been able to 
> bleed off pressure 'forwards' thru the system via the return fuel 
> line. But I also imagine that it could have been replaced by itself 
> without the entire distributor. If I am wrong, someone please 
correct 
> me.
> 
> I agree with your feelings and after the initial shock of the 
findings (price wise) settled, I came to the same conclusion.  I saw 
them trade out the Primary Pressure Regulator and the same problem 
persisted after the swap.  I could only conclude that the fuel 
distributor was defective internaly and was leaking inside.  

As it turns out they changed the distributor and fired up the car and 
it held pressure!  I have not had the hot start problem since and it 
appears to have stopped surging which was a sympton that it had when 
you first started the car on a cold start.

I am not convinced that the fuel distributor was really defective but 
all of the evidence certainly points in that direction.  If I can be 
of any further asistance please do not hesitate to contact me.

Scot 

6452




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:42:07 -0000
From: patrickdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires

 
    I saw the posts and was wondering if this was necessary? If mine 
is not spin balanced will it damage something? Or is this a cure for 
high speed vibrations that are hard to find? I'm not a DMC expert so 
I really don't understand why this is important.

Patrick
#1040




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:25:13 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Purolator fuel filter - better?

I found a direct replacement (according to the manufacture) for the 
Bosch fuel filter. It's from Purolator. I bought this filter because 
it looks like it won't have the same symptoms as the Bosch one does 
if you accidentally tighten it too much on the bottom steel fuel line 
elbow. For those who don't know of this problem here's what happens:

If you thread the fuel filter onto the steel 90-degree elbow (on the 
bottom steel fuel line going to the "In" port of the filter) to 
tight, you will restrict the fuel flow causing low fuel pressure and 
the fuel system not operating properly or at all. The reason being 
this is if you look inside the threaded port where that 90-degree 
steel elbow threads into, there's some sort of "dome" or black bubble 
(I am assuming that it is made of aluminum). When you thread the 
elbow in to far, it hits against this causing the fuel restriction. I 
don't know what the purpose of that "bubble" is in the fuel filter 
for, anyone on this list know? (I haven't cut the old Bosch filter 
open to inspect it yet). Anyway what I THINK is since the filter was 
made for a different fuel system on another car, there was no elbow 
that threaded into it but a hollow bolt (like what's on the rest of 
the fuel system) that threaded into it. Now after putting the two 
copper washers with the banjo fitting and threading it into the 
bottom of the filter and tighten it down, it would work flawlessly 
since there was only enough thread sticking out to only go into the 
filter so far. I think someone may have goofed and made the 90 degree 
elbow threads the same length as that hollow bolt and forgot to take 
into consideration the banjo and the two copper washers thus making 
it go into the filter to far if you tighten it to much.

Now here's where the Purolator fuel filter comes into the equation. 
If you look into the same "In" port (where that elbow will thread 
into) it does not have that "bubble", it's just a straight chamber. 
You could tighten up that elbow and thread it as far as it would go 
into this filter and it will never hit anything in the filter to 
restrict the fuel filter. I'll try to get some pictures of it onto 
the files page later tonight along with the part number if the 
Moderator gives me permission to do so. One other good thing is that 
the filter is a lot cheaper (around $15). I will be installing this 
filter this weekend (If it stops raining here!!) and take some fuel 
readings with the new fuel pressurs tester I just purchased. I'll 
post back the results.

If anyone would still like to use the Bosh fuel filter then you may 
be able to work around the problem since if you leave the filter on 
the elbow to loose it will leak and if it's to tight you restrict the 
fuel flow. One solution (which I have yet to confirm and I will do so 
this weekend) is to take the old copper washers off the top of the 
filter and transfer BOTH of them to the elbow (of course you'll be 
installing new copper washers on the top since you will be changing 
your fuel filter). Now the copper washers you put onto the metal 
elbow will not be used to seal it, they will just be used as spacers. 
You should be using Teflon on the threads of the elbow to seal it. 
The copper washers MAY be good enough to space the thread to prevent 
it from being tightened too much and also be a guide to not 
tightening it enough. 

Steve





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:38:49 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Plastic Header Bottle question

There never was an official recall on the header bottle. It is just 
that after 20+ years many owners have seen them split or crack with 
the resulting loss of coolant. In light of this there is now a source 
producing aluminum and stainless steel replacements. If you decide to 
replace I recomend adding an overflow bottle so you can see the fluid 
level without having to remove the pressure cap like on other modern 
cars.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jus4sho_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Regarding the recall on the plastic header bottles: Can someone tell 
me why 
> the plastic bottles weren't sufficient for the the Delorean?  Was it 
just a 
> defective design of the Delorean's specific bottle?  How exactly did 
they 
> fail?  I ask because I've seen many other cars that utilize plastic 
bottles.  
> (Presurized, like the D.)  
> 
> Part of my project will involve relocation  and replacement of the 
bottle and 
> I'd like a little background on the plastic bottle problem.
> 
> Thanks,
>     Steve  
>     VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
>     www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 00:37:34 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Eurofest Update2

Another day done! A great time is being had by all. Be sure to visit 
at http://www.dmcnews.com/belfasttemp/belfastdaily.html

There are (by Marty's count) 35 cars attending, 5 of them are right-
hand drive. I believe I heard that 17 countries are represented.

Dave Swingle (and the other 220 DeLorean-Nuts from Belfast)




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:58:59 EDT
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: Auto VS. Manual

Yes, from my experience the computers/modulators on an automatic 
do have problems and are an expensive fix.  I don't know how _often_ 
these things go out, but chances are if you have your automatic DeLorean 
for long enough it probably will.  Personally, unless you *really
hate* sticks, I would recommend a stick over an automatic.  That's
the only reason why I bought an automatic D.

If you decide to buy an automatic, make sure the car shifts well
when cold and when hot.  I made the mistake of not doing that and
I had to pay the price right after buying my D. 

My two cents,

Richard
 



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:11:54 EDT
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Lambda light

I know this has been covered in the past on the list, but I couldn't
find information anywhere on the web-site.  What is the Lambda 
light for (I think I already know, just want to make sure) and how/
when does it shut off?

Thanks for any help,

Richard
  



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 19:12:20 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires

On-car balancing is the best solution but not required. It's for all 
the "High speed" drivers. ;-) It is sufficent to say that you should 
at least have the tire spin balanced off the car at high speeds, 
generally spun at the tire manufactures speed rating. 

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., patrickdmc_at_dml_y... wrote:
>  
>     I saw the posts and was wondering if this was necessary? If 
mine 
> is not spin balanced will it damage something? Or is this a cure 
for 
> high speed vibrations that are hard to find? I'm not a DMC expert 
so 
> I really don't understand why this is important.
> 
> Patrick
> #1040




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:46:07 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Hard Starting.

You said:
"it appears to have stopped surging which was a symptom that it had when 
you first started the car on a cold start."

The idle surge or "hunting" when cold is a normal characteristic of the K-Jetronic CIS fuel injection system.

DMC Joe



"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site:DeLorean Services.com
DMC.tv is in your future.....   

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 12:51 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: Hard Starting.


  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
  > 
  > But one thing is that I don't understand how the replacement of an 
  > entire distributor could have solved your problem. The distributor 
  > itself is not responsible for any type of fuel pressure retention. 
  > Less of course the Primary Pressure Regulator. If there was a bad 
  seal
  > (s) in the unit, I could understand how it would have been able to 
  > bleed off pressure 'forwards' thru the system via the return fuel 
  > line. But I also imagine that it could have been replaced by itself 
  > without the entire distributor. If I am wrong, someone please 
  correct 
  > me.
  > 
  > I agree with your feelings and after the initial shock of the 
  findings (price wise) settled, I came to the same conclusion.  I saw 
  them trade out the Primary Pressure Regulator and the same problem 
  persisted after the swap.  I could only conclude that the fuel 
  distributor was defective internaly and was leaking inside.  

  As it turns out they changed the distributor and fired up the car and 
  it held pressure!  I have not had the hot start problem since and it 
  appears to have stopped surging which was a sympton that it had when 
  you first started the car on a cold start.

  I am not convinced that the fuel distributor was really defective but 
  all of the evidence certainly points in that direction.  If I can be 
  of any further asistance please do not hesitate to contact me.

  Scot 

  6452




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 21:44:34 -0000
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl
Subject: Re: DeLorean known issues

David Teitelbaum wrote:

[snip]
> deteriorated rubber fuel system parts
[snip]

I'd like to add rubber parts as a whole:
on mine the door seals are starting to crack, from the looks of it
they are still the original seals and since I appear to be using my
car more than the previous owners did they are starting to wear out
pretty quick! And once you have a tear there's no way of stopping it!

I'll be replacing mine within the next couple of weeks...

[snip]
> muffler bracket on right rear
[snip]

What's with this bracket? On my car I had the catalytic convertor 
replaced by an unrestrictive piece of piping, but somehow I can't
seem to get the muffler back in straight!

The bracket above the alternator refuses to slide forward to where it 
used to sit. The muffler is seated firmly, so that's not the problem. 
My "problem" is that I now have one exhaust flush with the bumper
(left hand side) and on the other side it's allmost an inch further 
out!

I've been trying to get it back to where it's supposed to be, but
that &%$&%^& bolt above the alternator is allmost impossible to reach 
with any good tools; I tried getting an air-rachet on, but I can't
get it onto the bolt because of the proximity of the surrounding 
metal...

Any tips anyone???

Thanks in advance,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------





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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 02:23:49 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Fuel filter pictures uploaded

The pictures of the fuel filters have been posted and can be found at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/Bosch%20fuel%20filter/

Steve




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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 02:31:18 -0000
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Lambda light

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> I know this has been covered in the past on the list, but I couldn't
> find information anywhere on the web-site.  What is the Lambda 
> light for (I think I already know, just want to make sure) and how/
> when does it shut off?
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> 
> Richard

Richard - the Lambda light indicates when the oxygen sensor should
be replaced.  It is turned on by the Lambda counter located 
under the dash by the brake pedal/clutch pedal.  It is a mechanical
counter that reaches 100 at roughly 30,000 miles.  The lamp is reset
by resetting the counter.

Mike Griese




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