From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 563
Date: Thursday, May 31, 2001 5:24 AM

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. engine light
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

3. feul problem
From: Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com

4. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

5. RE: painting louver
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie_at_dml_PNDC.org>

6. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net

7. Re: feul problem
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

8. Re: Re: Numbers on Engine.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Brake/stop light wiring variations
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: Flowmaster Exhaust on a DMC?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

11. posting question
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 00:21:48
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: engine light

I Noticed that the lense on the engine compartment light is missing in my 
delorean. Does anyone know where I could get just the lense? Is it an 
interchangeable part with another car? Or, Does anyone have a good used one? 
Thanks!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:33:33 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box

In a message dated 5/30/01 5:58:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Whalt_at_dml_att.net 
writes:

> My idea of the stainless air box is two fold:
> First, a stainless top to the engine would look really cool.  But secondly,
> making an entirely new filter box that will house a K&N filter without
> adapters makes it all worth while.  Making just a new top half while
> 

I'm interested in this too.  Last year I discussed it with Dirk Wacker (I 
gave his link on a prior e-mail) and he said he could do one, if he had one 
on hand for reference.  (Not a cheapie project, though.) I haven't got time 
to pursue this personally... just passing it along.  The OEM filter box is 
pretty ugly.  I'd love to replace mine with something decent looking. A car 
at Eurofest in the People's Choice competition had a K&N breather on it.  
Looked stock, complete with K&N logo.  Not real huge... about the size of a 
large soup can.  Of course, it eliminated the heat stove, outside air intake 
etc.  I don't know the overall impact of that design change.  James Espey can 
probably give you the name of the owner... it was red.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 21:01:13 EDT
From: Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: feul problem

My car was running rough just like just like described in the rough running 
posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel filter. It just 
recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power to the pump 
and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I removed 
the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even that far. 
Help    
                                                            Lee
                                                            VIN# 1699  



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 01:35:56 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)

Just an FYI, Rob sells a Plastic replacement air intake hose that 
will replace that shutter-air inlet.  

<SNIP>
I would probably also consider
> making a whole new air intake system that would replace the 
restrictive
> 'shutter-air inlet' (part #105952).  It would be a lot of trouble, 
and I
> would probably never sell more than a dozen or so of them.  But I 
like to do
> this sort of thing just for the fun of it.
<Snip>





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 18:30:40 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie_at_dml_PNDC.org>
Subject: RE: painting louver

Dear Walt
Took your advice and this past week went shopping for a good shoe polish for
my luuvers.  I found a perfect match, can't remember the product name or
number, but at least two problems have since occurred.  One, when I walk on
the loovers, foot prints develop.  Two, when I sat on the luuvers, I got
shoe polish on the seat of my white pants.  Even if I merely rub my forehead
across the luvers, I get shoe polish on my face.  All of this leads me to
believe that this is not really a good idea.  Could you possible come up
with some other hair brained idea that I might try?
Arnie

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 12:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] painting louver


*****  Moderator's Note
As with any automotive refinishing project, proper surface
preparation and the correct tools are an important part of
success.  Consult with an autobody specialist before attempting
any large-surface restoration for the proper techniques and tools.
*****

Every repainted louver I have seen didn't look good.  I think the problem
starts from painting over Armor-all with the 'fish eye' effect coming
through.  Another mistake I have seen is people using a gloss paint.  Gloss
paint makes imperfections show up all the more.  Sanding before you start
makes it worse.  The better sanded areas are more gloss and look uneven.  I
think the only way to get a good paint job on a greasy louver is to totally
sand everything down, use a textured primer to match the original texture
and then cover it with a flat black top coat.  Maybe you could remove the
grease by spraying it down with a few cans of disc brake cleaner or engine
degreaser.

Instead of paint, maybe you could looking into finding a good oil based ink
or dye that is weather proof.  I used a laundry marker with great success to
touch up small areas on my louvers.  Maybe something like what is used in a
laundry marker or a black leather dye would work.  If your louver is already
saturated with Armor-all, then maybe fight fire with fire and give it a good
rub down with black shoe polish.  Ha!  Don't knock it.  It just might beat
painting it.

Walt    Tampa, FL



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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 02:07:26 -0000
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)

I would suggest staying with the more traditional style. It could 
maybe you some adjustments but I would prefer classic over complete 
redesign.

Jeremy



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:

> 
> Should the unit look substantially like the OEM as a compliment to 
the
> aftermarket stainless header bottles?  Or should it be a totally 
different
> design using an entirely different configuration K&N filter (i.e. 
round or
> cup shape vs. OEM flat rectangle)?  I think sticking closest to OEM
> configuration will be more popular.  Comments anyone?
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL
> 




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 02:38:49 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: feul problem

Have you checked your RPM relay? This is what supplies the power to 
your fuel pump.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Meyerleem_at_dml_c... wrote:
> My car was running rough just like just like described in the rough 
running 
> posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel filter. 
It just 
> recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power 
to the pump 
> and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I 
removed 
> the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even 
that far. 
> Help    
>                                                             Lee
>                                                             VIN# 
1699




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:05:09 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Numbers on Engine.

The DeLorean PRV-6, engine, model number 498675, was manufactured by Societe Franco-Suedoise de Moteurs in Douvrain France. The engine manufacturing plant was a joint venture of Puegot, Renault, and Volvo. Renault was mostly responsible for the block, Volvo supplied cylinder heads and pistons. I have no information on Peugeot's involvement. The Volvo version of this engine, labeled B-28F was already certified for use in the USA and was finally chosen for use in the DeLorean. Volvo used this engine for their luxury model 260 and later 760 GLE sedans; this version of the PRV accounted for 98% of all PRV's. Therefore the designation as a "Volvo" engine in the DeLorean is the most widely accepted.

Additionally, whenever refereeing to this engine, most knowledgeable engine mechanic's will recognize this engine as a Volvo engine

DMC Joe
     
"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com

DMC.tv is in your future.....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 5:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Numbers on Engine.


  In a message dated 05/30/2001 12:14:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
  srubano_at_dml_optonline.com writes:

  << in. Since Delorean did not make the engine and Volvo did, it's 
   Volvo's numbering scheme. All car manufactures have engine numbers 
   stamped/welded onto the blocks of the engine. 
   
   Steve >>

  Renault manufactured the engine in the DeLorean. DeLorean Motor had a 
  contract with Renault not Volvo...even though Volvo demanded a 300,000 
  Sterling as a "technical entrance fee."





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:40:42 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Brake/stop light wiring variations

Walt,

I don't have the vin breakout number but there was a change in the brake light circuit. One version uses a separate circuit which uses fuse #18 which is hot at all times. The more common version is part of circuit (fuse) #4 and is wired to the accessory relay.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Walter 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 4:17 PM
  Subject: [DML] Brake/stop light wiring variations


  I have noticed two wiring variations on DeLorean stop lights and am
  wondering if anyone can say what this is about.

  On my car VIN 3633, the stop light circuit is always hot meaning that even
  though the ignition is switched off, the stop lights still come on when I
  press the brake pedal.

  On Randy's car VIN 3228, the stop light circuit is only hot when the
  ignition is switched on.  If you are sitting in the car with the key removed
  from the ignition and press the brake pedal then the stop lights won't
  operate.

  Can anyone say which variation is the norm on DeLoreans?  Is it likely that
  both cars left the factory in this configuration or was one of the cars
  modified?

  Walt    Tampa, FL







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:32:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Flowmaster Exhaust on a DMC?

Whenever thinking about replacing the DeLorean muffler keep in mind that the factory installed muffler is all stainless steel which means you will never have to replace it.

Additionally the stock muffler is not the restrictive portion of the exhaust system it is the crossover connection located just behind the left hand exhaust header.

DMC Joe
  
"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: s_spartz_at_dml_hotmail.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 5:02 PM
  Subject: [DML] Flowmaster Exhaust on a DMC?



  If you want to have more power or even a better sounding exhaust, why 
  not go with a different muffler.

  That same thought said hey!, if a "normal" oval type muffler will fit 
  what about a flowmaster?

  Have any of you seen one put in or know of it.

  Thanks
  Steve
  no vin yet
  SOMEDAY!!!



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:57:31 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: posting question

I would very much appreciate information on Delorean upgrade and performance parts and where to get them. I am very interested to find out if anyone knows about a performance exhaust system to give the car a better note and if there is'nt one, what might be good muffler/silencers to use? Also about blackout headlight covers. 

Thanks, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu 


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