From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 564
Date: Thursday, May 31, 2001 9:32 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: fuel problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Re: feul problem
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re:Who made Engine.
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: blackout headlight covers.
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

6. RE: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

7. RE: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Fascias)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

8. RE: engine light
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

9. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: posting question
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

11. Re: feul problem
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. RE: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

14. my car runs again!!!!!!!!!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. License Plate Idea
From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

16. Re: feul problem
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

17. Interesting Photo
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

18. New exaust system (was stainless steel air filter box)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Fascias)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. convex side mirror update
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

21. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)
From: "Dan" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: engine light
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

23. Re: Interesting Photo
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

24. Re: Interesting Photo
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Inertia Switch
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 04:11:37 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: fuel problem

If the pump is running (you actually hear it) and it isn't moving fuel 
then look for a kinked, collapsed, soft fuel pick-up hose or missing 
baffles in the tank and the pump is sucking air. It is very easy when 
installing the pump to turn it even a little and with a soft pick-up 
hose it will kink or collapse under the suction. You could 
temporaraly substitute a short length of hose on the suction of the 
pump and immerse the other end in the tank to see if you can get it to 
pump. If the hose is causing the problem before replacing it you could 
try putting a spring inside it. The new hoses are much stiffer and 
resist kinking and collapsing better than the old ones although they 
are EXPENSIVE. Be careful working around the fuel tank. Take all 
sensible precautions as pointed out in previous posts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




 In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Meyerleem_at_dml_c... wrote:
> My car was running rough just like just like described in the rough 
running 
> posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel filter. 
It just 
> recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power to 
the pump 
> and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I 
removed 
> the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even 
that far. 
> Help    
>                                                             Lee
>                                                             VIN# 
1699




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 02:57:45 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: feul problem

In a message dated 5/30/01 10:31:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com writes:

<< There is power to the pump 
 and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I removed 
 the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even that far. 
 Help    
                            >>
Lee,

   If you definitely have power to the pump, and you are NOT getting fuel at 
the lower fuel filter connection, then I think there is a problem inside the 
fuel tank.  Maybe when you installed the new fuel pump, you kinked that fuel 
pick-up hose or maybe you twisted it and now the hose and the screen are not 
sitting in fuel.  I would check there first.

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 04:08:04 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box

If this thread is getting out of hand, then let the moderator tell everyone
to e-mail me about this privately.  Otherwise, I think this is the ideal
forum to brain storm a better design.  Whether I or someone else builds this
or profits from it is not the point.  The point is to enjoy and improve our
cars.  If I end up building it, then I will mark it up a conservative amount
and sell it through the D vendors if they are willing.  Otherwise, I'll just
sell it through the internet.  That is unless someone else wants the job of
building these.

Since Marty got a 3HP gain by adapting a K&N filter, then I'm curious to
know how much horsepower can be gained by running the engine without any
filter or air box at all.  (Just for testing purposes.)  Has anyone done a
dyno test to find out?  I'm sure one of the performance guys at DMC Houston
may have tried this.  Please let me know.  This would help establish a goal
of minimum restriction.

My opinion so far is that the best filter box design would use cool outside
air from the OEM location and bring it to the engine through a flexible hose
(like the OEM design).  There isn't enough room above the engine for a
cup-shaped filter.  If a cup-shaped filter were used in-line on the side of
the engine, then this would take away from the length of the flex-pipe.
Since the engine torques and moves in relation to the engine compartment, a
reasonable length flexible hose is needed to absorb the vibration without
breaking.  This brings me to the conclusion that a design more like the OEM
is the most practical.

The only other variation that I can come up with for now is to re-design a
shutter valve that would also be an air box which could house a cup filter.
Then the OEM filter box could be left in place without the filter.  Is this
a bad idea?

If anyone knows of or has archived photos of custom made air intake systems
(excluding turbo and superchargered systems) please e-mail them to me
privately or send me a link.

Thanks,
Walt    Tampa, FL




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 06:36:42 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:Who made Engine.

In a message dated 5/30/01 5:59:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com writes:


> 

Huh?  If my memory is correct it was Douvrain, an independent contractor, 
selling to Puegeot, Volvo and Renault as well as DeLorean.  I'm sure many on 
the DML can give more light on this.

-Wayne
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 06:44:48 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: blackout headlight covers.

In a message dated 5/31/01 12:05:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu writes:



> I would very much appreciate information on...   blackout headlight covers. 
> 


No longer made by any manufacturer, apparently.  You might get lucky on 
e-bay, but I've only seen one NOS set in the last year and it went for $$$

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 07:26:43 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box

I have a number of photos of this car, because I also liked the K&N
filter setup.  For me, this would this setup would be great.  I am
already drawing hot air from inside the engine compartment, and don't
have the stove because of the turbo setup.  

As I think about it now, I did not see where the PCV hose was re-routed
to.  In the stock setup this hose goes from the oil breather to the air
box....   I wonder where this hose went on the Legend setup?!  
 

-----Original Message-----
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 8:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Stainless Steel air filter box 


In a message dated 5/30/01 5:58:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Whalt_at_dml_att.net 
writes:

<SNIP>
A car 
at Eurofest in the People's Choice competition had a K&N breather on it.

Looked stock, complete with K&N logo.  Not real huge... about the size
of a 
large soup can.  Of course, it eliminated the heat stove, outside air
intake 
etc.  I don't know the overall impact of that design change. 
<SNIP>



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 06:31:51 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Fascias)

Walt,
I would think that we would be better off if the Air entry point was outside
of the engine compartment.  The inlet air would be much cooler (dense) than
air from the HOT engine compartment.

Perhaps an air scoop could be fabricated that goes through the engine cover
and louvers and is above the roof line.  We then could have ram air.  Sure,
it would destroy the nice lines of the DeLorean, but if executed properly,
it sure would make the car look like it was designed to go 200 MPH. ;-}]

A while back, maybe a couple of years ago, I think Kayo talked about making
little scoops that would mount to the back end of the rear side windows,
giving the stock air inlet a ram effect.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 3:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel
Facias)

What I am proposing doing is making a whole new
stainless filter box that is made to house the K&N filter without extra
adapter brackets.  By doing so, it will not be able to hold OEM style
filters -- only the K&N (Part #33-2002) and cross-references to this K&N.


If 'we' go through with designing and building a prototype, can anyone
suggest if it would be better to make the box somehow open on the top to
draw in more air?  Or would it be best to suck fresh air in through the side
window vent like the OEM unit does?



Walt    Tampa, FL






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 06:35:08 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: engine light

Check the DeLorean Parts and Service providers.  You will find that just
about all the parts are available with few exceptions.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Foster [mailto:westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 12:22 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] engine light


I Noticed that the lense on the engine compartment light is missing in my
delorean. Does anyone know where I could get just the lense? Is it an
interchangeable part with another car? Or, Does anyone have a good used one?
Thanks!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________






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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 05:29:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)


Walt

I have not idea how many twin turbos are running
around out there, but it must be a bunch since it is
the only currently advertised kit and has been for
some time.  One of the problems with the kit is that
it requires moving the alternator to the top of the
engine and this means removing the intake air tube. 
Thus, air is sucked into the existing "air box" right
at the filter, sans intake tube.

Result?  HOT air. The intake is now directed toward
the bottom of the car (read exhaust manifold).  An
intake unit that would bring in colder air would be a
big plus.  Add a K&N filter and a stainless housing
and I think you would have a hit.

Just another suggestion - - I bet you are getting
plenty of them.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 13:47:14 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: posting question

Get in touch with your favorite Delorean vender. They all have the 
"upgrades" and they can help you with whatever level of performance 
you can afford from simple tunning to turbos to replacing the engine!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I would very much appreciate information on Delorean upgrade and 
performance parts and where to get them. I am very interested to find 
out if anyone knows about a performance exhaust system to give the car 
a better note and if there is'nt one, what might be good 
muffler/silencers to use? Also about blackout headlight covers. 
> 
> Thanks, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_o... 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 14:58:37 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: feul problem

Lee, The fuel pump will make a louder noise if it's being starved for 
fuel. That's one way to tell what's happening. Another problem, When 
you turn on the key you hear the pump run but does it shut off in a 
second or two. By shutting off, the pump has pressurized the fuel 
system and waiting for use. When your starting the car the RPM 
relay/impulse coil will start the pump running again. If it doesn't, 
then you have an electrical problem. If it does start to run,then you 
may have a bad pump. Your also saying fuel filter, or do you mean 
fuel screen, the screen is on the other end of the fuel pump pick up 
line. Most likly the screen isn't the problem, but if you read a lot 
of theses post Steve, just replaced a lot of fuel parts just to find 
out it was the fuel filter giving him the problem. It's the larger 
canister bolted to the back part of the frame. 
If you need a used pump to test, I have one you can use. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Meyerleem_at_dml_c... wrote:
> My car was running rough just like just like described in the rough 
running 
> posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel filter. 
It just 
> recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power 
to the pump 
> and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I 
removed 
> the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even 
that far. 
> Help    
>                                                             Lee
>                                                             VIN# 
1699




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 07:34:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box


--- "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com> wrote:
> I have a number of photos of this car, because I
> also liked the K&N
> filter setup. 
- - - - - - - - -

Marc - could you post some of those pictures to the
DMCnews site so I and others could see the K&N setup?

Dick Ryan
VIN16867

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 15:24:03 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box

Walt and others, Why do a lot of work on the intake end, when your 
just going to run into a problem on the exhaust end. An old race car 
driver told me that 15% HP,(That could bring us upto about 150HP.) 
could be realized with proper less restrictive exhaust. If were going 
to do anything to make an appreciable amount of difference, then work 
on exhaust. Then what you do on the intake side will be better used. 
BUT, I to have replaced my breather filter with cotton, from what I 
understand is what KN uses.I have also experminted with a fiber 
material like in the air conditioner filters used in homes, no 
restriction. Also, redo your hoses to suck in cool air not hot air. 
This will help a bunch.Do you ever notice how your car seems more 
powerfull when starting up on a cold morning.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

 

     --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> If this thread is getting out of hand, then let the moderator tell 
everyone
> to e-mail me about this privately.  Otherwise, I think this is the 
ideal
> forum to brain storm a better design.  Whether I or someone else 
builds this
> or profits from it is not the point.  The point is to enjoy and 
improve our
> cars.  If I end up building it, then I will mark it up a 
conservative amount
> and sell it through the D vendors if they are willing.  Otherwise, 
I'll just
> sell it through the internet.  That is unless someone else wants 
the job of
> building these.
> 
> Since Marty got a 3HP gain by adapting a K&N filter, then I'm 
curious to
> know how much horsepower can be gained by running the engine 
without any
> filter or air box at all.  (Just for testing purposes.)  Has anyone 
done a
> dyno test to find out?  I'm sure one of the performance guys at DMC 
Houston
> may have tried this.  Please let me know.  This would help 
establish a goal
> of minimum restriction.
> 
> My opinion so far is that the best filter box design would use cool 
outside
> air from the OEM location and bring it to the engine through a 
flexible hose
> (like the OEM design).  There isn't enough room above the engine 
for a
> cup-shaped filter.  If a cup-shaped filter were used in-line on the 
side of
> the engine, then this would take away from the length of the flex-
pipe.
> Since the engine torques and moves in relation to the engine 
compartment, a
> reasonable length flexible hose is needed to absorb the vibration 
without
> breaking.  This brings me to the conclusion that a design more like 
the OEM
> is the most practical.
> 
> The only other variation that I can come up with for now is to re-
design a
> shutter valve that would also be an air box which could house a cup 
filter.
> Then the OEM filter box could be left in place without the filter.  
Is this
> a bad idea?
> 
> If anyone knows of or has archived photos of custom made air intake 
systems
> (excluding turbo and superchargered systems) please e-mail them to 
me
> privately or send me a link.
> 
> Thanks,
> Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 11:48:21 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: my car runs again!!!!!!!!!

Hello All,

yesterday i got my car back from Valley Imports here in Fargo, ND.  they were 
able to fix it!!!!

the mechanic there found that the pipe that goes from the intake to the idle 
speed motor was not seated correctly - that was my vaccum leak!  also an 
o-ring was missing somewhere and he thinks my control pressure regulator 
might be a little crappy.  but anyway, he got all tuned up correctly and it 
starts after about 1/2 a second of cranking and it holds an idle very 
steadily.  the car seems to be tuned PERFECTLY again! not a single sound of 
weird engine noise or erratic behavior.  this is GREAT!!

to recap:
about 3 months ago my DeLorean VIN11596 suddenly wouldn't start one morning.  
i discovered a massive fuel leak by my fuel accumulator and my fuel pump 
support boot was completely full of murky water.  i had the car towed to an 
amoco where they fixed the fuel leak but was unable to get the car to run 
again.   now in hindsight i think these guys did more harm than good with 
their fooling around back there.  i had the car towed home where i began work 
on the car myself, where i discovered my fuel pressures were sitting around 8 
bar!!!!.  i wound up draining and cleaning my tank out, buying a new fuel 
pump, cover boot, upper and lower hoses, connectors, new injectors, all new 
hollow bolts, removing my fuel distributer for cleaning and lubrication, 
swapping parts with another owner, removing my air meter housing for cleaning 
and testing, and basically tearing apart and rebuilding the whole K-Jetronic 
fuel injection!  last week i put everything back together and found that my 
fuel pressure was back to within specs.  however after three days i could not 
adjust my CO screw to make the car turn over and idle, even for 2 seconds.  
so i had the car towed out to a local BMW/audi/porsche dealer and just 
yesterday they finally fixed it.  

the total cost to me on this whole ordeal turns out to be around $1500 for 
new parts and a few hours of professional labor time. but you know what? i 
don't care!!!  i have a  DeLorean in my driveway again and it runs like it 
was always meant to!!!!!!!!!!!

many many MANY thanks go out to David Teitelbaum, Marty Maeir, Steve Rubano, 
Dan, Dave Swingle, Mike Griese, DMCJoe and PJ Grady, John Hervey, Bruce 
Benson, and everyone else who i may have forgotten or took the time to drop 
me a line with suggestions - and just for the record, every email was read 
from you guys and i actually TRIED everything you guys suggested!  it really 
does make a difference!

i'm just happy we have the DML so i was able to do the majority of the work 
and troubleshooting myself.  or else $1500 could have easily expanded to 
$4000!!

many thanks to everyone, and i'm back in business!!

as Jim Reeve says, 

DRIVE STAINLESS!
Andy Lien

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 12:11:38 -0400
From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: License Plate Idea

Geesh,
 
I came up with a great personalized plate idea -- "1955 NE1"... as in "1955,
anyone?"
 
I thought it was clever, but nobody other than us DeLorean folks seem to get
it.  Anyway, feel free to use it if you wish!
 
-Dave
http://www.projectvixen.com/ <http://www.projectvixen.com/>  
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 19:11:17 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: feul problem

John, If you are referring to me, I only replaced the fuel 
filter...nothing else. I don't now if the new one I had was defective 
or not but when I replaced it with a Purolator one, problem solved. 
Lee, if you are having fuel problems I would start from the very 
beginning of the system (before replacing anything). Check the fuel 
pick up line inside the tank, make sure it's still connected to the 
pump and also to the pump filter (it should also be inside the fuel 
baffle). If that all checks out ok, next start by disconnecting the 
fuel hose coming off of the fuel pump (the feed line, not the return) 
from the steel line attached to the chassis (leave the Banjo end 
connected to the pump). Jump start the pump from the RPM relay and 
note how the fuel is coming out of the hose...it should be spraying 
out like a garden hose so be very careful. If that's ok them re-
connect the line (make sure it's tight) and go to the next section 
(which will be at the accumulator) and do the same thing. Keep going 
down the line all the way up to the Fuel Distributor....the fuel 
should gush out like a garden hose all the way up to that point. Did 
you replace the high-pressure flexible lines when you replaced the 
pump? If so did you replace them with the same type of line and made 
sure that they were not kinked?

I would check that the steel line going from the Fuel Accum to the 
filter isn't twisted or kinked if you say that you disconnected the 
fuel filter from that line (not the flexible one going to the 
distributor). If you have proper fuel delivery going into the fuel 
accum but not coming out of it and the steel line is ok, the 
diaphragm inside the accum may have rotted out/broke and pushing the 
gas back to the tank through the return line located on the rear of 
the accum. Another problem could be that the pump is delivering the 
proper fuel amount when it isn't under load but is failing when it is 
under load (pressurized). You can take John up on his offer to test 
it out with a known good pump. Where did you buy the pump from? A 
delorean parts dealer or from a local auto store? I wasn't aware of 
this before but I was told not to long ago that there were different 
styles of pumps that were made that all looked identical. If you got 
it from a Delorean parts vendor I wouldn't worry about that....if you 
got it from a local autoparts store then what is the Bosch part 
number off of it? Someone on the list like John H might be able to 
check and see if it's a good number.

Steve

>Most likly the screen isn't the problem, but if you read a lot 
> of theses post Steve, just replaced a lot of fuel parts just to 
find 
> out it was the fuel filter giving him the problem. It's the larger 
> canister bolted to the back part of the frame. 
> If you need a used pump to test, I have one you can use. 
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Meyerleem_at_dml_c... wrote:
> > My car was running rough just like just like described in the 
rough 
> running 
> > posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel 
filter. 
> It just 
> > recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power 
> to the pump 
> > and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. 
I 
> removed 
> > the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped 
even 
> that far. 
> > Help    
> >                                                             Lee
> >                                                             VIN# 
> 1699




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 15:07:07 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Interesting Photo

While surfing, I found this:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/10514649/10514977vbuNtbtUJy

The caption reads:
Robin Charley's Birthplace
Our Wolfington cousin in Belfast showed us this house where he was born.
When John Delorean moved to Belfast to build his cars, he bought this
house. 


I figured it may be of some interest :)



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 16:23:11 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: New exaust system (was stainless steel air filter box)

John Hervey,

Do you want to volunteer to make a new exhaust system?  (No sarcasm
intended.)  Making curved round stainless pipes requires different tools
than angular shaped air boxes.  I'm familiar with the later.  Each time I
check my stock air filter, I hate putting it back in when I would rather
replace it with a K&N.  Since the exhaust system is maintenance free, I
don't think about it as often.

There is a sadly rusted out DeLorean frame with what is left of an engine in
town that I might buy from the owner.  (All of the valuable parts have
already been scarfed off.)  Having that to get dimensions from, I might try
to design a better exhaust IF I can get someone to make it for me.  If I
showed up to an exhaust shop with some tubes of 18-8 stainless steel, would
that be too hard on the bending equipment?

Walt    Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

>Walt and others, Why do a lot of work on the intake end, when your
>just going to run into a problem on the exhaust end.





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 16:22:42 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Fascias)

Scott,

The ram air is a good idea, but you are right about destroying the lines of
the car.  The best option for that might be Lee's side scoop idea.  I
haven't heard anything more about that in a long time.

I got the idea of making a totally new rear louver with an attached wing
that would have an air scoop made into it with the side supports being air
ducts going through the engine cover.  I don't like making irreversible
modifications to the car, so if I ever tried that it would use new bolt-on
parts.  I picture a wing similar to the Starfire.  It could attach the same
way as the optional luggage rack without otherwise modifying the car body.

But for the masses, I think something that stays confined to the engine
compartment would be more desirable.

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 16:23:20 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: convex side mirror update

Well, I am tired of coming up with cool ideas and not getting around to
doing any of them.  I need to get off line so that I can get some work done!
Still in the works are new convex side mirrors and new heavy duty front sway
bars.  I'm going to cut out two mirrors soon -- put one on my car and put
the other on e-bay.  If it looks like there is enough market for it, then I
will buy a saw to cut out a bunch more.  I could probably find other uses
for the saw to make buying one worth while.  So far a local stain glass shop
is willing to let me try it once on their saw because I am a nice guy (with
a cool car).  They absolutely will not entertain the thought of me paying
them to cut several out or allowing me to show up periodically to cut a few
out.  They are already doing me a favor by letting me come over to try it
once.

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 20:34:52 -0000
From: "Dan" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)

Walt, 

"Hot" is the key word here. Stainless is a great conductor of heat, 
and that airbox would heat up rather quickly, which in turn would 
heat up the air going into the engine. Not a good thing. Cool idea 
though ;-).

---Dan

Eurofest kicked ass....



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Skipper,
> 
> If you really want to make a hot selling upgrade for the DeLorean, 
have your
> stainless fabricator make an air filter box out of stainless that is
> basically shaped like the OEM but will hold the closest K&N filter
> available.  Make it with twist lock stainless latches to hold it 
closed.
> 
> I thought about this before, 




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 22:48:57 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: engine light

DMC Huston has them, new.

Chris P DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 12:21 AM
Subject: [DML] engine light


> I Noticed that the lense on the engine compartment light is missing in my
> delorean. Does anyone know where I could get just the lense? Is it an
> interchangeable part with another car? Or, Does anyone have a good used
one?
> Thanks!
>
>                          Ryan- vin.#16301
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 23:07:07 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Interesting Photo

If this house is the one next to the test track..its now a B and B and at
least one of the American visitors stayed there during Eurofest.

Chris P DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
To: "DMC News (E-mail)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 8:07 PM
Subject: [DML] Interesting Photo


> While surfing, I found this:
>
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/10514649/10514977vbuNtbtUJy
>
> The caption reads:
> Robin Charley's Birthplace
> Our Wolfington cousin in Belfast showed us this house where he was born.
> When John Delorean moved to Belfast to build his cars, he bought this
> house.
>
>
> I figured it may be of some interest :)
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 22:27:00
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting Photo

It was nice seeing the photo again of the fabulous guesthouse I was staying 
at when attending Eurofest. It is now called The Warren Guesthouse, in fact 
a very nice Canadian DeLorean owner also stayed here during Eurofest. His 
name is Don Gowler aka Silver Fox!

Actually, the house was part of the DMC Factory and was used as a 
representation building. John Z. DeLorean never spent one night in this 
house, but I think it was later used by Chuck Bennington. For those of you 
who have read the DeLorean books, you will remember the false rumour of the 
house having gold taps in the bathroom. This was certainly not true, but was 
one of the many rumours that overshadowed the DeLorean financial agreements.

Also, the house is right next to the old test track, and earlier there was a 
road leading straight to the DMC Factory.

More info on: www.warrenguesthouseni.com

I strongly recommend this guesthouse. I will definitely be staying there at 
next Eurofest.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
(and have driven the test track about 12 times...2 in 1981, 10 in 2001!)


>From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: "DMC News (E-mail)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Interesting Photo
>Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 15:07:07 -0400
>
>While surfing, I found this:
>
>http://community.webshots.com/photo/10514649/10514977vbuNtbtUJy
>
>The caption reads:
>Robin Charley's Birthplace
>Our Wolfington cousin in Belfast showed us this house where he was born.
>When John Delorean moved to Belfast to build his cars, he bought this
>house.
>
>
>I figured it may be of some interest :)
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 00:53:38 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Inertia Switch

Hello everyone,

This week is a busy one for me since I'm currently fixing several problems I
have (had) with my car. One of these problems had to do with the locks. I got
this problem fixed and as I was testing if everything worked I thought of the
inertiaswitch since this also has control over the locks.

I knew there was "something" with this switch, but I couldn't remember precisely
untill I tried reaching it while behind the wheel...  Mine still sits at its'
original location, next to the lambda counter so I had to reach further. I
finally reached it and pulled the plunger. Nothing happened.

I also noticed the plunger wouldn't stay up. I tried again, this time with the
engine running, since the inertiaswitch should stop that too, but again nothing happened.
Looking at the Electrical Schematics and searching the archives made me search
for a jumper near the switch, but I can't find one. It HAS to be in there
somewhere since the car even runs without the switch in place/connected. With
the switch out of the car I shook it firmly, but it never popped. When I pulled
the plunger and shook it with the plunger up I could hear and feel the ball
inside moving, I even felt the ball popping back UP (I had the switch upside
down) against the magnet inside.

Since it was in the non-updated location AND it does not have a swipe of white
on it I gather this still is one of the first series of switches that were
recalled at some time???
What would the next logical place to search for a jumper be? Hopefully not the
fusebox; I'm still trying to figure out some of the butchering that has taken
place in there...
Replacing the switch will have to be done some time too, but I don't see the
point in doing so untill I have the wiring worked out...

On another note: I also replaced all of the AC-panellights with dimmer bulbs
today, all of a sudden I have an extra light telling me to "Lock Doors" ALL the
time the ignition is on and the doors aren't locked. What is the purpose of this
light? Or is its' sole purpose to annoy the hell out of me so I'll lock my doors
while driving? What good would that be?

Thanks in advance,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------



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