From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 569
Date: Monday, June 04, 2001 2:57 PM

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There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Turn signals...
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Cleaning engine?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

3. Re: Unusual Inertia Switch Malfunction
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

4. Re: Unusual Inertia Switch Malfunction
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Delorean galvanized frames
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com

6. no rough idle
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>

7. Re: Air Intake - Flex Tube?
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

8. suspension update
From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: window felt replacement
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

10. Re: "New" DeLorean
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

11. Re: window felt replacement
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

12. Re: start problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

13. Re: Re: "Door Ajar" Light
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Inertia Switch Position
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. RE: GREAT SCOTT IT'S HOT
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

16. DeLorean for sale in San Diego
From: eurojet_at_dml_sdcoe.k12.ca.us

17. RE: suspension update
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

18. RE: Turn signals...
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

19. Re: Delorean galvanized frames
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

20. Re: no rough idle
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Cleaning engine?
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Cleaning engine?
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

23. Re: window felt replacement tricks
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: thread format for DML files
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

25. Has anyone heard the latest on the Digital Dash
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

26. Re: no rough idle
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 22:29:20 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Turn signals...

Hello

Just wondering if the turn signals are supposed to "go back" once you turn 
the steering wheel back, because it doesn't in our car, only sometimes. If 
this matters, keep in mind our car is an October 1981, without the gas flap.

Thanks a lot.
John Feldman
VIN 4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 03:52:34 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Cleaning engine?

I have two different things you can use both of which I personally 
have tried so I can say they work! The first and more expensive is 
GUNK. In the States it is in any large auto store. The second and my 
personal favorite is any cheap brand of oven cleaner. It will work 
just as well as Gunk and is much cheaper and even smells better. Both 
are dangerous to skin and eyes and you must flush with plenty of 
water. In some areas the residue is considered hazardous waste and 
must be disposed of properly. Both will remove light grease and oil. 
If it is a heavy build-up use a putty knife then spray with the 
cleaner and wait a couple of minuetes then use a stiff brush before 
rinsing off. The aluminum will brighten up nicely. Make sure to 
thoughly rinse off all traces of cleaner and don't get it on yourself. 
If you have access to one, a steam cleaner with a brightener for 
aluminum will do the job more professionaly especially if you have a 
lot of very dirty parts. Look in the phone book for someone who cleans 
the filters for the ovens for restaurants, they will go to the job and 
do it right in the spot. Another place would be to go to a 
transmission shop, many have large parts washers where they put a 
whole transmission case into like a giant dishwasher. Buy the guys 
lunch and they will clean everything in sight!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "ian" <ian_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> Hi DMLers,
> 
> I'm switching engines in my right-hand-drive DeLorean, using the 28k 
mile
> unit from my parts-DMC. Has anyone any recommendations for cleanig 
the
> aluminium engine block to get her sparkling again!
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,       IAN
> ***************




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 04:02:53 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Unusual Inertia Switch Malfunction

Since the car won't run with the switch disconnected but the switch 
won't shut the engine off it would seem the switch is defective. It 
should have a patch of white paint on it but even if it does I would 
replace it and move it to a spot foward of the bonnet release so you 
don't kick it or knock the wires off of it again. The white paint 
would indicate that the switch was replaced in a recall campaign just 
for the reason yours now isn't working correctly. Don't forget the 
switch when wired properly is also supposed to unlock the doors at the 
same time it stops the fuel pump and eventually the motor. This is a 
critical piece of safety equipment and the federal government saw fit 
to require an expensive recall to save lives in the event of a 
serious accident so don't tamper with it and if it isn't working 
correctly it is in YOUR best interests to make sure it is functioning 
correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., shirazcupala_at_dml_h... wrote:
> I had an interesting thing happen a few weeks ago that I'll share as 
> FYI and ask for your advice on.
> 
> I drive my D every day.  One morning I went to start it and it just 
> wouldn't start. Kept turning over but never catching.  After a day 
> and a half of worrying but not really even moving the car, I finally 
> remembered to check on the intertia switch.  Well the plunger was 





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 00:11:01 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Unusual Inertia Switch Malfunction

Shiraz, I have two used ones on my work bench and both of them turn off or 
break connection by lifting the plunger up or by holding it in one hand and 
gently hitting it against the heel of your other hand. You should hear a 
switch click and a small ball like around on the inside. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 04:28:30 -0000
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Delorean galvanized frames

Does anybody know why JZD in his infinite wisdom never thought of 
using a galvanized frame such as the Lotus uses(since it is a basic 
copy of a lotus backbone chassis,and if lotus could galvanize their 
frames,there was no reason why the DMC frames could have been 
orignally galvanized),I notice on the Lotus mailing lists they never 
talk/worry about rotting frames,just wondering.

Claude
000570




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 00:12:42 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: no rough idle

As soon as you start a delorean its idle should seek for a brief period of
time.  It should go from like 500 to 1200 rpms for a minute or to if it is
cold.  My delorean which is noy getting the best gas milage and has a
perfectly running frequency valve does not rev at start up.  It starts up
and holds an idle perfectly.  I would like my car to have a proper delorean
idle, and I tried adjusting the CO screw (1/2 turn) to lean, but this
changed nothing  what would make my car not idle like all of her other
delorean bretheren.
Any ideas
btw  I know this may sound silly, that I want my car to seek for an idle,
but I think this may be someway related to my gas problem, anyway, what
makes the normal delorean idle seek occur and what can I check?
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167
+6808



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 05:45:05 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Air Intake - Flex Tube?

In the D's application you need a flex tube. The engine moves 
everytime you step on the gas so if the tube dosn't flex it will 
break.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Shannon Yocom <ss_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Why not use something smooth like PVC pipe instead of flex tube for 
the air intake? 



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 03:38:15 -0600
From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: suspension update

In reference to the shock and lowering springs update that DMC Houston provides... Is this update the same as the new PJ Grady shocks/springs update?  Or are they two different systems?  If they are different, how do they differ?

Steve
#11611
Boulder, CO 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 08:50:09 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: window felt replacement

Heat is the culprit when it comes to softening the glue that holds 
the felt in place. But it's the window that causes the seperation. 
When the window is in the fully down position, the front part of the 
glass loses contact with the felt. When the window is rolled back up, 
the glass will push against the felt as it comes into contact. In 
warm weather the glue softens and beomes weak. Rolling the windows up 
and up this will cause the glass to 'dig' under the felt and pry it 
loose. Best case senario, the felt will be pushed up and will hand 
outside the glass flapping in the wind. Worst case, when the window 
is pushed back down it will grab the rubber and pull it off. This 
results in the window closing improperly (top portion will come off 
track and come inwards).

I honestly do not know of a cure, or an imporved aftermarket part. 
When I get around to reinstalling my door panel, I'm going to try 
some instant gasket as an adhesive for the felt to the rubber strip. 
It's worked well enough on the rest of the car and has been able to 
withstand the heat here in the desert. I'll let you know how it turns 
out.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> I simply refuse to believe that there is no aftermarket fix for the 
shoddy
> DeLorean window felt. I just replaced the felt for both door 
windows last
> weekend, and today the passenger side felt has already come unglued 
at the
> front side of the window.
<SNIP>




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:49:23 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: "New" DeLorean

Stian, List,

I too have the full DMC Houston set up on my "Delores", indeed it was the
research car used by them, ..I echo Stians comments a vast improvement.

I can supply front springs, but they are ONLY available to UK members, who
cannot afford the full DMC kit..I strongly recommend their  (DMC H)
shocks..funnily enough they are only made a few miles from my home, but they
are exclusively made for, and  sold by DMC Huston / Wingray Auto's in
Liverpool (England).

I will be having the rear springs made soon (ONLY for UK )  because,  if you
just change the fronts, without the rear one's, the car can sit a lower than
it should at the front.

Some people commented on the "cheap" price of my springs and spares at
Eurofest, all I can say is, as a club, we in UK are quite happy to charge
"cost, plus a little bit". If it were my Business, not a hobby, then
doubtless the cost would be similar to the regular DMC suppliers. Its just
that we "poor" chaps in the UK are not as wealthy as you Yanks!

I think we all are very fortunate to have such a good section of parts
suppliers, it costs a lot of money to hold stock for many years, and to do
the research and development of improved, replacement components. Support
your dealers!

If any of you came to me for chrome plating, (my day job), believe me , you
would pay "Retail", because my business could not survive, any other
way!..23 years on, still going strong!


Chris P DOC UK



----- Original Message -----
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 6:13 PM
Subject: [DML] "New" DeLorean


>
> When I drove to Eurofest, I took the road to Liverpool for a much needed
> torsion bar adjustment and also lowering of the car. The work was
performed
> by Paul Windsor at Wingray Autos.
> If you have been considering the update from DMC Houston, namely the
> lowering springs (I think Chris Parnham sells them too) + the new shock
> absorbers, I can tell you that this mod make the DeLorean a complete new
and
> different car! It feels more secure and modern!
>
The performance is great, and my next
> long-term project will be the engine upgrade.
>
> Mike Loasby was
> impressed with the new springs and shocks and the car's nice handling.
>
>




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 06:24:16 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: window felt replacement

The felt weather strip is common to most automobile moveable window applications. The separation problem is usually due to age; where did you purchase your replacements from?

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Christian Williams 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:32 PM
  Subject: [DML] window felt replacement


  Hi,

  I simply refuse to believe that there is no aftermarket fix for the shoddy
  DeLorean window felt. I just replaced the felt for both door windows last
  weekend, and today the passenger side felt has already come unglued at the
  front side of the window. I saw a post in the archives asking if anyone
  had created a rubber or a better felt replacement, but could not find an
  answer to the question. I live in San Jose, California, so I imagine that
  the problem is due to heat.

  Also, is there any way to view the archives in a threaded format as
  opposed to digest format?

  -Christian "Window Felt" Williams



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 07:05:24 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: start problem

Your starting problem may be related to either the idle speed or fuel enrichment circuit. To check the idle speed circuit unplug the idle speed motor (regulator) while the engine is at idle than plug it back in. If there is no change in idle speed you have a defective idle speed component which will effect start and run conditions.

Concerning the fuel enrichment circuit check to insure that the frequency valve is buzzing continuously during starting and cold idling.

All of the factory installed DeLorean fuses are of the correct ratings.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steve Bunnell 
  To: DMC Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 8:06 PM
  Subject: [DML] start problem


  I'm having a starting problem with my D.  I'm pretty sure its fuel related and not electrical.  



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 07:08:26 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: "Door Ajar" Light

Most of the electrical devices used in the DeLorean are standard to many other cars. Most door adjar warning systems use the same "voltage feedback" system used in the DeLorean. The angle drive is a direct descendant from Jaguar. The vacuum mode switch is widely used in most other cars. The power window system may be custom to the DeLorean mechanically but electrically it is similar to most other power window applications.

The main problem with the DeLorean electrical system is not the system but weak or poorly designed components. As I'm sure you are aware, most of these week components have been improved and or completely redesigned and are readily available from most of the DeLoren parts vendors. 

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jan van de Wouw 
  To: Stian Birkeland 
  Cc: DMC-News 
  Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 4:49 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: "Door Ajar" Light

  I've spent the last week working out several "bugs" and I must say it sometimes
  looks as if they were looking for exotic solutions instead of systems that were
  proven to be reliable.



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 11:12:12
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Inertia Switch Position


My inertia switch is next to the Lambda-counter. Is this the correct 
position for it or should the inertia switch be moved?

I remember hearing there was a change in the inertia switch position from 
the factory, but I always thought that it was first positioned close to the 
door, so if you slammed the door hard enough you could actually trip the 
switch. Therefore it was moved next to the counter.
Right or wrong? Please correct me.

Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 06:10:19 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: GREAT SCOTT IT'S HOT

If you have not found anything broken or cracked, take the radiator cap (on
the plastic reservoir) to your local garage and have it pressure tested.
The cap may be bad.

Make sure that you find the problem before you drive again.  250F is too
Hot.

Were your cooling fans running?

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: noflux_at_dml_yahoo.com [mailto:noflux_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 2:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] GREAT SCOTT IT'S HOT


Hello everyone,

I just got my AC up and running today and I had been using it. The
temp today was about 87f. I went for a drive (about 20 miles) and
when I got home I was in the driveway and I had my car idling for
about 4 min with the AC on. ( I got busy talking with my dad)

Then I heard a big splash on the ground at the rear of the car below
the plastic header bottle (Plastic Overflow Bottle) 



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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 14:10:24 -0000
From: eurojet_at_dml_sdcoe.k12.ca.us
Subject: DeLorean for sale in San Diego

Hello list,
My 1981 D #6232 is officially up for sale now. It has a bit over 16K 
miles on it, is an original Califonia car and is one of the cleanest 
around. Flaws are as follows: passenger window off track, trunk 
release handle off (I'm using a vice grip which is great!), engine 
compartment light not working, small hole in door weatherstrip, tiny 
dent in windshield moulding. Mechanically perfect. Given a clean bill 
of health by Don in Garden Grove in October of 1998. Driven less than 
2000 miles since only in fair weather. Has black stripe. Have new 
Goodyear tires plus the original NCTs. Grey 5 speed. I cannot e-mail 
photos, however if you track down John Dore's website from Ireland he 
has my car on his website. The car can be seen in San Diego on any 
weekend. I paid $16K for the car in October of '98, put in over a 
grand in upgrades and tires and now want a firm $16K for it. It's 
worth every penny and then some. My phone # is (619) 296-2601 if you 
have anymore questions or you can e-mail me. 
Thanks,
Fil Vigil  http://homepage.eircom.net/~johndore/filbert.htm



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:17:08 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: suspension update

The springs are not the same.

Grady sells a new set of front springs.  I believe he has 2 different
sizes depending on how low you want the front to be.  For the rear, he
as a special shock with a adjustable collar so you can lower the rear if
you choose using the standard (stock) spring.  I own neither product,
but PJ Grady has a reputation for high quality products.

Houston sells a set of 4 springs, when they came out I was told they
were reproductions of the original Lotus designed springs.  In addition,
they were manufactured by the same vendor.  Recently in Belfast, Michael
Loasby (DMC Director of Product Development) made it very clear that the
ride height of the "shipped car" was never changed.  The height of the
stock delorean was always the intended design based on the DOT headlight
requirement.  All engineering was done based on this height.


With that said, I own a set of the Houston springs.  When I purchased my
car, it had cut springs.  Because I needed to purchase a full set of
springs and like the idea of having the "original design", I decided to
go with the Houston product instead of getting 20 year old springs for
the rear, and newer "lowering" springs for the front.  Although I am
happy with the overall look and performance, they are very expensive.
On closer inspection to my car, I was also unhappy with the variation of
height between the left and right side of the car (although I have not
yet verified that is this the fault of the springs).   Needless to say,
I felt a bit ripped off when Mike Loasby shattered the myth about the
"correct" ride height.


Chris of the DOC was selling a spring kit in Belfast for 60 Sterling
Pounds (I think), That's about $100 USD.  I hear they are a high quality
product.  I did see a set sold to a owner from the USA, so maybe he will
comment on the quality of the product.  The price is good though!


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Bunnell [mailto:dmcsteve_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 5:38 AM
To: DMC Mailing List
Subject: [DML] suspension update


In reference to the shock and lowering springs update that DMC Houston
provides... Is this update the same as the new PJ Grady shocks/springs
update?  Or are they two different systems?  If they are different, how
do they differ?

Steve
#11611
Boulder, CO 





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 08:23:02 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: RE: Turn signals...

Yes, the turn signals are supposed to return to normal after you complete
your turn.

Murray
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 08:41:50 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean galvanized frames

My Lotus frames (Series II Europa) were both finished with a tar like black
coating similar to undercoating.  It worked quite well until it was scraped
off.  Galvanizing is great but fills in the threaded inserts (threads) and
is time consuming to clear.  I would have preferred a modern powder coat
that was thinner but retained its adhesion and flexibility.

20+  years too late
Don Ekhoff.

----- Original Message -----
From: <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Delorean galvanized frames


> Does anybody know why JZD in his infinite wisdom never thought of
> using a galvanized frame 



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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: no rough idle

Not ALL DeLoreans "seek" when cold.  My car has always
started immediately and it never seeks when cold. 
When warm, however, it does seek a bit, especially
just after coming to a stop.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 17:25:37
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning engine?

I have used castrol super clean. don't leave it on too long but it works 
great for cleanong wheels and greasy engines.
Ryan- vin.#16301

>From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Cleaning engine?
>Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:00:31 +0800
>
>Hi DMLers,
>
>I'm switching engines in my right-hand-drive DeLorean, using the 28k mile
>unit from my parts-DMC. Has anyone any recommendations for cleanig the
>aluminium engine block to get her sparkling again!



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 16:52:21 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning engine?

I have used another product that is MUCH cheaper and is safe for the 
enviroment. It's called "Oil Eater". I picked up a Gallon of this 
stuff at Costco and it was only $8.00. You spray it on, let it sit 
and hose it off. As David stated, for gunked on areas you will need a 
putty knife or a steel parts brush to get it clean.

Steve 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:
> I have two different things you can use both of which I personally 
> have tried so I can say they work! The first and more expensive is 
> GUNK. In the States it is in any large auto store. The second and 
my 
> personal favorite is any cheap brand of oven cleaner. 



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 13:33:00 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: window felt replacement tricks

In a message dated 6/3/01 10:21:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_framezero.com writes:


> I simply refuse to believe that there is no aftermarket fix for the shoddy
> DeLorean window felt. I just replaced the felt for both door windows last
> weekend, and today the passenger side felt has already come unglued at the
> front side of the window. I saw a post in the archives asking if anyone
> had created a rubber or a better felt replacement, but could not find an
> 

I just replaced my driver side with a part from Rob Grady.  His two 
suggestions: first, don't just replace it the width of the glass, like the 
original, use as much as will fit on the channel.  That increases the amount 
of glue surface anchoring the felt strip. His replacement piece was more than 
adequate for that.  Second, Rob supplied two thick washers, to be used to 
offset the metal carrier frame at the front edge, thereby moving the felt 
away from the glass.  I only used one, but that seems more than enough in my 
case.  If you do this, I suggest you tape the washer in position before 
replacing the carrier frame.  Trying to hold the washer in position while 
installing it is nearly impossible.  Rob says he's working on a better 
replacement.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174


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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 13:32:59 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: thread format for DML files

MODERATOR NOTE
If you view the DML Archive on the web at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
go to the "messages" link. At the upper right of the "messages" page there is a button that says "Threaded". Click it. You do not have to log in to do this.

=========
In a message dated 6/3/01 10:21:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_framezero.com writes:


> Also, is there any way to view the archives in a threaded format as
> opposed to digest format?
> 
> 
That's one of the things I've tried to get underway through DMCTech working 
with the DML, but it won't work due to copyright conflicts.  I think I have a 
possible alternative, but it came to me after I saw Dave Swingle at Eurofest 
a week ago.  I'll have to ask him about it once he's had a chance to get home 
and catch up.  Even with the available search engines, I think a threaded 
(topical) format would be a major improvement.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 18:52:33 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Has anyone heard the latest on the Digital Dash

...from Dakota Digital.  I e-mailed them this morning & got the usual 
spiel that "they could custom make me a panel."  Any information 
would be appreciated.  

Thanks,
Ben Boatright
VIN 10115 (no longer for sale)
tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com




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Message: 26
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 19:00:42 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: no rough idle

Idle quality (hunting) is directly affected by vacuum leaks, a 
breakdown of the secondary ignition system dirty or missfiring 
injecters, and an out of balance cylinder ie: low compression, burnt 
valve etc. You have to remember that the engine operates like a wheel, 
it keeps going around so if 1 cylinder's output is lower (or higher) 
than the others whenever it's turn comes around it will fire a little 
differently than the others causing the engine to speed up or slow 
down then the idle system tries to correct it but it can't react fast 
enough to cancel out the effects of 1 cylinder so it over or 
undershoots resulting in "hunting". A properly tuned motor when warm 
will hardly hunt at all. A cold motor will hunt a little initially but 
quickly calm down as the cold start valve shuts off. To improve gas 
mileage you might need a tune-up and or a mixture adjustment. The 
mixture screw is a very sensitive adjustment so if a 1/2 turn isn't 
making a difference you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere (which 
might account for your bad gas mileage)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> As soon as you start a delorean its idle should seek for a brief 
period of
> time.  It should go from like 500 to 1200 rpms for a minute or to if 
it is
> cold.  My delorean which is noy getting the best gas milage and has 
a





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