From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 571
Date: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 5:33 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: no rough idle
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Re: spark plugs
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Delorean galvanized frames (long post)
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

4. Re: no rough idle
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

5. oil guage
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: re no rough idle
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>

7. Re: Missing Grille
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: spark plugs
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: clutch slave cylinder
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: DeLorean mockup on display in Detroit...
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

11. RE: Cleaning engine?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. 170mph speedo
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

13. Re: Air Intake - Flex Tube?
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

14. Please help- My Delorean won't start...
From: Jeff Wiltzius <wiltzius_at_dml_doit.wisc.edu>

15. RE: 170mph speedo
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

16. Re: 170mph speedo
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl

17. Nose bra update
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

18. Bowie British car day & Tucker Car Collection
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

19. Automatic transmission
From: "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com>

20. Re: why use an angle drive
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

21. Stuck in gears
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk

22. GONE IN 60 SECONDS ----------------->
From: noflux_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. bosch
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. rear breaks
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Giugiaro, Delorean Display and Detroit
From: "Mr. Copies Print Centres" <mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 02:53:44 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: no rough idle

You are correct that the cold start valve is only on during cranking 
of a cold engine (below 95 degrees). What I meant to say without 
getting too technical is that on an initial cold start even after you 
stop cranking the engine, until the raw fuel from the cold start valve 
is vaporized and consumed the idle motor cannot take full contol of 
the idle. So even though it is true that the cold start valve is 
closed as soon as you release the starter the effects take a moment to 
wear off during which the idle will be "unstable". I hope this clears 
up my description for you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> David,
> 
> Are you sure about this?  You say, "A cold motor will hunt a little
> initially but
> quickly calm down as the cold start valve shuts off. "  I understand 
that
> the cold start valve only operates WHILE the starter is engaged IF 
the
> thermo-time switch is cold



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 23:04:10 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: spark plugs

Ryan, All the info you need on spark plugs is on the web site. You can use 
for reference.http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.htm
John Hervey 
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 03:21:39 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Delorean galvanized frames (long post)

I can think of several reasons why you do not see "galvanized" frames 
on cars. Galvanizing is essentially using a tank of molten zinc large 
enough to immerse the part you want to coat. The heat can distort 
large metal sections. As mentioned it coats threads (both internal and 
external like studs), It adds weight, it is expensive and it doesn't 
get into some areas well like deep recesses and when it does it 
doesn't drain out well. There are not a lot of places that have tanks 
large enough to accomodate something as large as a car frame. It is 
not an inherently high speed process for large parts what with heat-up 
and cool down into what is really a batch process. Most automakers 
have gone to an e-coat process which is a paint process that you dip 
the parts in and use electricity like plating. The other way auto 
manufactuers use galvanizing is to use metal already coated with zinc 
but you cannot weld to it without ruining the zinc and the fumes are 
dangerous so it is used for panels that don't need welding. The main 
problem with the epoxy on the Delorean is that as it ages it gets 
brittle (epoxy is already pretty brittle to begin with) and cracks. 
The designers didn't worry about the cars lasting forever, the epoxy 
lasted long enough. Look at other 20 year old cars that were bare 
underneath and you will see whole areas missing from "rustworm". 
Considering what they did when the cars were built not too many from 
that era even had paint on the frames! I remember passing auto 
assembly plants and they stored the frames to be used outside till 
they needed them and they were rusty before they even assembled the 
cars! Today they throw a cheap black paint on them so they don't look 
horrible when you buy the car. Take a look under a car 1-2 years old 
and you will see rust starting to pop out around holes and at the 
edges, how long do you think these cars will last? In 10 years there 
will be rust everywhere. If you want a car that will last forever it 
may cost a lot more! The moral here is if you want the car to last you 
must flush the underbody to remove salt and road debris, inspect often 
for rust and promptly repair any damage to the epoxy paint. If the car 
was neglected the rust problem will be more severe especially if the 
car was driven in the snow belt. If I was to assemble a car today 
powder coating is the way to go.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Someone asked Mike Loasby this at Eurofest. The reason is that with 
all the
> tapped holes in the chassis, it's much easier to plug them with 
plastic
> plugs



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 03:34:33 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: no rough idle

If the O2 sensor is not over 30,000 miles and has not been 
contaminated by leaded gas or silicone it does not change all that 
much. This is exactly the reason the EPA required a lambda counter so 
that over the lifetime of the sensor it would be in calibration. Other 
conditions will change much more like the ignition wires arcing or the 
spark plug gap increasing or a vacuum leak. I would not touch an O2 
sensor unless you cannot get the lambda to pulsate within specs (35-45 
degrees with CO properly adjusted) or it has over 30,000 miles on it. 
I bet the sensor will last a lot longer but the EPA in their infinite 
wisedom probably conservitevly rated it. BTW when you touch anything 
emmision related (like an O2 sensor) you are supposed to reset the 
mixture using an analyzer and in some states this can only be done by 
someone that the state has certified.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Dick, Most common, As the 02 sensor gets old, the voltage changes 
going to the Lambda ECU, the air / fuel mixture will change. Then the 
02 will try to adjust which causing it to seek along with a few other 
things like Dave mentioned. After it warms up, you can adjust the air 
flow meter to smooth out as long as there are no other problems. If 
the 02 sensor is new, then you have to re adjust the air flow meter to 
the new conditions. The computers in the cars today do it 
automatically. Untill the De Lorean gets a highter level of computer, 
it's a 3mm long allen ever so often.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 03:42:35
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: oil guage

Since My oil pressure guage has read the same since I've owned my DeLorean I 
just wanted to ask and find out what it SHOULD read. Mine reads 80 all the 
time except start up. is this too high? I'm not sure where should the oil 
pressure be? Thanks a bunch!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 23:27:32 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: re no rough idle

>The 
>mixture screw is a very sensitive adjustment so if a 1/2 turn isn't 
>making a difference you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere (which 
>might account for your bad gas mileage)

How might one check for vacuum leaks?  My problem is my idle does not hunt
AT ALL even at start up.  If I had a leak wouldn't that make my idle hunt?
After driving the car 300 miles after I adjusted the co screw 1/2 turn
lean, I did stall twice while I was at stop lights, but my idle was not
affected at all.  Could it be something like my cold start valve is on
constantly?  I don't know I'm just tossing out ideas and seeing what comes
back.
Thanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808


>Idle quality (hunting) is directly affected by vacuum leaks, a 
>breakdown of the secondary ignition system dirty or missfiring 
>injecters, and an out of balance cylinder ie: low compression, burnt 
>valve etc



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 00:09:19 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Missing Grille

This is not the first time I have heard of this happening. Actually I find this somewhat of a mystery when there is no obvious way that a person not knowledge with the DeLorean would know how to remove the grill. If all of the fasteners are in good condition and the grill is properly secured it is normally not easy to take the grill off. The security chain sounds like a reasonable option.

DMC Joe

DeLorean Services delorean_at_dml_att.net
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
DeLorean Services Store dsvstore_at_dml_att.net
DMC Joe dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net

DMC.tv is in your future ...............
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 10:16 PM
Subject: [DML] Missing Grille

> 
>  I either lost my front grille or someone stole it from me on Friday night
> in Northern NJ.  I was wondering if this was a common occurrence.  



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 00:15:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: spark plugs

The specified spark plugs for the DeLorean are Bosch HR-6 DS.

DMC Joe

DeLorean Services delorean_at_dml_att.net
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
DeLorean Services Store dsvstore_at_dml_att.net
DMC Joe dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net

DMC.tv is in your future ...............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 11:18 PM
Subject: [DML] spark plugs


> hey list,
>   I was just wondering if anyone knew which Bosch copper plugs 



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 00:53:22 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: clutch slave cylinder

The original factory installed clutch slave cylinders were manufactured by
DBA France. These units have not been available for years. The replacements
are from Bendix and are superior to the originals.

DMC Joe

DeLorean Services delorean_at_dml_att.net
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
DeLorean Services Store dsvstore_at_dml_att.net
DMC Joe dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net

DMC.tv is in your future ...............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 7:17 PM
Subject: [DML] clutch slave cylinder


> Hi list,
>   Could anybody inform me on what the OEM manufactuer of the clutch slave
> cylinder is? I was hopeing to find a rebuild kit for it if possible.
Thanks.



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 09:13:23 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: DeLorean mockup on display in Detroit...

The Eyes on Design automobile show, "the world's only car show to focus on
the emotion and character of automotive design," caps off the exhibit on June
17th at the Edsel Ford Estate.  That happens to be the same day that a group
from the DeLorean Club of Ohio (and possibly DeLorean groups from Illinois,
Michigan, and Indiana?) will be coming home from the Stainless Show and Shine
in London, Ontario.  Most of us will be driving right through Detroit!

I have been to the Edsel Ford Estate and it is a destination unto itself.
Add  a car show of this calibre and this seems like a pretty unique
opportinity.  Unfortunately, it seems like we would not get to show our
DeLoreans.

I am going to try to get more information.

- Mike Substelny

James Espey wrote:

> Anyone in the area able to go by and take a few pics?
>
> James
>
> ---------------------------------------
>
> DEARBORN, Mich., June 4 /PRNewswire/ -- The work of two world-renowned
> designers will be on display at the Automotive Hall of Fame from June 5
> through June 14.

[snip]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 08:42:39 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Cleaning engine?

Griots Garage has a product in the catalog that you paint on cast iron that
makes it look like it has been sand blasted.  Has anyone tried this product?

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 3:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Cleaning engine?


Ian,

I suggest checking out Tamir's DeLorean site.
http://entermyworld.com
I don't know the exact link to the area in his site, but he describes how he
detailed the underside of his car to look better than new.  As I remember, I
think he painted the cast aluminum parts (oil pan & tranny) with something
like Rustoleum's quick dry silver.

SNIPPED

 Although I haven't (wouldn't bother)
trying it on parts that take a lot of heat such as exhaust manifolds.

Walt    Tampa, FL
>Has anyone any recommendations for cleanig the
>aluminium engine block to get her sparkling again!







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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 22:29:44 +0800
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: 170mph speedo

Hi DMLers,

I recall someone on the List supplies covers for the speedo. I got fed up at
Eurofest looking at a wimpy-85mph speedo and want to upgrade to the 170mph
(or 140mph) speedo face.

Can't find the contact in the archives ... who sells them and how much?

Cheers,         IAN
****************
PS. Thanks to all again for comments on engine cleaning ... work is
commencing!




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 15:09:41 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Air Intake - Flex Tube?

I have this setup on my car now also...But I bought the flex tube 
from Rob after seeing it on his Green car. It's made of thick, 
flexible, ribbed plastic. It's long enough to connect from the air 
cleaner housing to the vent and it fits in like OEM...same fittings.

Steve

 
> I actually did this modification this week!
> What I did was buy a piece of "Defroster Piping" inner  70mm,
> exactly the same as the original, only longer.
> I used a 5cm (2") piece of pipe in the elbow to make the connection.
> 
> As you can see at
> 
> http://www.vdwouw.demon.nl/airintake.jpg



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 15:47:51 -0500
From: Jeff Wiltzius <wiltzius_at_dml_doit.wisc.edu>
Subject: Please help- My Delorean won't start...

Hello all,

It has been quite sometime since I've posted- and unfortunately this 
time I'm having a showstopper problem. Quick summary- car won't 
start- just turns over. Drove it out to a friends place (20 min 
drive)- car sat for about 3 hours- came out and it just turns over.
Things I have tried:
1. Checked inertia switch
2. swapped cold start thermo switch (tech manual said it causes 90% 
of cold start problems)
3. swapped fuel pump with another (most likely) working one- checked 
all hoses made sure nothing was pinched etc.

I then had the car towed to a service station because it didn't seem 
like I was getting power to the pump (I didn't hear it buzzing) but 
they said it is getting power but it seems like it isn't building 
enough pressure?? They recommended a new fuel pump until I told them 
I had already tried swapping the pump with one that a friend of mine 
had taken off of his '83 model when he first got it. The pump was 
working fine- he just wanted a new one on there.

What are my options at this point? Should I bite the bullet and order 
a new fuel pump just to completely rule it out as a problem? My other 
option is to electrically go through everything (I have some fuses 
that are actually melted- so my car is a mess electronically but 
seems odd it would work fine for 2 years). I was thinking of 
replacing the entire fuse box, fuses and relays- does this sound 
logical?

Any insight, help, suggestions are greatly appreciated. I will 
continue to search through the back messages. Anyone have a 
recommended list of things to go through in a no start condition?

Sincerely,
Jeff Wiltzius
'81 #6145 - Madison, Wi



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:01:26 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: 170mph speedo

I have the 170 mph speedo in my Delorean and it is very impressive the way
it matches the other gauges, that are in the cluster. Rob Grady can do this
upgrade at a cost $130.00.

The 140 mph speedo is no longer available.

Robert Starling
Vin#05252




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 22:22:09 -0000
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl
Subject: Re: 170mph speedo

--- In dmcnews, ian wrote:
> I recall someone on the List supplies covers for the speedo.
> I got fed up at Eurofest looking at a wimpy-85mph speedo
> and want to upgrade to the 170mph (or 140mph) speedo face.

DMC Houston can do this modification for you, including
recalibarating.
From their website:
"part"# 111178  $147.85 "170MPH CONVERSION, EXCHANGE PRICE"

Hope this helps,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 13:02:47 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Nose bra update

I sent a private e-mail earlier today to everyone I have on the reserved list 
for this year's  limited edition run of new DeLorean nose bras by Colgan 
Custom.  They'll be shipped to me in bulk at the end of the week, and I'll 
address and reship them. If you thought you were on the reserved list and 
didn't get the other e-mail today, please contact me immediately. (Some 
people asked for info but didn't commit. They're not on the reserved list!)  
Thanks!

-Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 14:32:50 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Bowie British car day & Tucker Car Collection

Hello,

Those who are planning to attend the show and the Tucker car collection on 
Saturday and Sunday, June 23-24,2001 please email me. 
    I will be leaving for Los Angeles California on June 15 and returning on 
June 22.2001. If you have any questions or concerns please email me or visit 
the MD DeLorean web site.
http://go.webring.yahoo.com/go?ring=dmc12&id=69&go">DeLoreanMidatlantic

Sincerely,

Mike Pack
DOA 4743
VIN ????



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:07:58 +0200
From: "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com>
Subject: Automatic transmission

Hi all,
I had the common erratic shifting problems with my
automatic transmission.
Thanks to Mark Hershey I understood very well, where
the problem comes from. I replaced the broken caps
and added the two 0.1 microfarad caps to the GND and
VCC supply of the comparators. My solder ball points looked 
absolutely ok. Additionally I inserted
two 1N4007 across (C-E) the transistor outputs. Beeing
aware, that the transistores are PNP types, I was relatively
sure (you can never be 100% sure) to solder them in the correct 
direction. Unfortunatly after installing the GC back in the car, the 
car starts in 2nd (or 3rd?) gear and refuses to shift at all. I 
removed the diodes back from the transistors because if they would be
in the wrong direction, they would permanently swith the
two solenoids. But this did not help at all. (The A/T Fuse is ok.)
Can somebody give me the following information:
What could cause the car starting in second (or 3rd?) gear ?
If no transistor would switch, which gear would be in use.
Which transistor (if you look on them when the GC is installed)
switches what gear ?
What is the switching voltage of the Base (against Collector Emitter)
A schematic (even handdrawn) would be a great help. 

Thanks a lot!

Arne
VIN 4949
arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com







 





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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:43:58 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: why use an angle drive

In a message dated 6/4/01 10:34:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl writes:


> why not take the
> 

Mike Loasby answered that one at Eurofest. I can't quite recall... I think it 
was partly cable length to the rear plus no take off hub on the tranny.  And 
the fact that electronic speedos weren't available then. Anybody remember 
that in better detail?

-Wayne A. Ernst
 DMCTech Group


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 16:46:04 -0000
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk
Subject: Stuck in gears

Hello list,

About 4 weeks ago I was driving along normaly,changed up from 3rd to 
4th gear although no it was stuck the shifter was like solid.
So i pulled over to the side of the road engine off let clutch up 
then down and everthing returned to normal.Untill-
Today I expirenced the same problem but it happened 4 times on the 
way home from work (20 mile trip)sometimes I was stuck in 1st gear 
sometimes 2nd when I tried to shift and it did the gears crunched!
But everytime I stopped waited switched off and then set off again 
everything was fine for about another 5 mins and so on 3 more times 
same thing.
Any suggestions please,by the way I have had a new clutch fitted and 
clutch fork only 5,000 miles ago.

Thanks Paul UK





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:11:01 -0000
From: noflux_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: GONE IN 60 SECONDS ----------------->

Hello list,


I have acquired a LT1 350 motor with 36k on it. This motor also has 
the brain and wiring harness. I am toying with the idea of putting it 
in my DeLorean. I have a few issue's I would like to toss out there 
and see what comes back.

1st: Is there a conversion kit? I.e. Bell Housing - Motor Mounts- 
ect. If not any idea what I will need to do to make them?

2nd: Will the 350 fit?

3rd: Will the tranny, axles, suppressions handle the extra weight and 
power?

4th: Lastly what elso will need to be converted that might propose a 
problem during the conversion?

Lastly has anyone ever seen a D with this type of conversion done and 
if so tell me about it. Did they mention how many hours it took?


Thanks and God Bless....
1982 DEC-81 Build
Living the Dream and it only took me 17 years...




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 17:45:31
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: bosch

Ok, so I want to go to my local parts store Auto Zone and get a cap rotor, 
plugs, and plug wires.
What is the Bosch part numbers for the Cap, rotor, plug wires? or are they 
listed some where? Thanks so much!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 21:02:15
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: rear breaks

Has anyone used Bendix break pads part #D-9 on the rear breaks of their 
DeLorean? Do they install good?

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:11:11 -0400
From: "Mr. Copies Print Centres" <mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com>
Subject: Giugiaro, Delorean Display and Detroit

For anyone interested....

I'm going to the Automotive Hall of Fame on Friday and will post pictures of
the exhibit online for the weekend.

I called and did the followup on the Eyes on Design functions.  Giorgetto
Giugiaro will be in Detroit for the weekend June 15-17 and is scheduled to
appear at many of the events.  Prices range from $200 black tie dinner on
Friday to a $100 a plate Sunday brunch.  He is also supposed to making an
appearance at the car show on Sunday at the Edsel Ford Estate.  Admission
into the car show is $15.

mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com
Windsor, Ontario  (right across from Detroit, Michigan)
VIN#17089

www.mydelorean.com





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