From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 572
Date: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 5:28 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Delorean galvanized frames
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

2. Re: suspension update

3. Re: why use an angle drive
From: "David Swingle" <>

4. can't remove my fuel accumulator


6. Re: Missing Grille
From: "K Creason" <>

7. Insurance....PLEASE HELP!

8. Hunting at startup
From: Les Huckins <>

9. Re: Automatic transmission
From: "Walter" <>

10. The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
From: "CBL302" <>

11. Turn signals again....

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 20:59:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Delorean galvanized frames

What he actually said, when pressed on this was [something like] "it would have
been too expensive to engineer the chassis in stainless to be able to take
impacts even when brittle"

Reading between the lines, it would make sense they would have had to crash a
load of stainless frames, at sub -4 degrees to see where they'd break. I guess
today's computerised stress-analysis would eliminate this problem.


Donald Ekhoff wrote:

> Mike was referring to "Hot dip galvanizing"  and this is a molten metal
> process.  It is like soldering closed all your threaded holes only zinc is
> much harder than solder.  It is possible to plug during the hot dip process
> with hard carbon plugs but it is problematic and time consuming.
> Also Mike indicated that the reason for not using Stainless was not cost but
> the poor low temperature (-5 degrees C.) crush characteristics of Stainless
> in a litigious American market.  He indicated that in testing it tended to
> fracture which undid the crush zone design.
> Donald L. Ekhoff


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 21:27:26 -0000
Subject: Re: suspension update

I have the new set of four springs and new shocks from DMC Houston,
and they are fantastic.  The difference in the ride and handling is
phenominal compared to the stock setup.

I, too, had a preference for a matched "complete set" rather than just
lowering the front as in other designs, but I have not driven any cars
so equipped and cannot offer a comparison.

I'm sure anything is better than the stock setup and aging shocks,
except, of course, for the cut-and-swap hack job.

Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX

P.S.  I am in shock and disbelief that the factory-installed spring
setup is by original design.  I even remember the bumper-height
requirements changing under the Reagan administration, which is what I
thought was the cause for the change in height of the DMC.


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 22:52:42 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <>
Subject: Re: why use an angle drive

You are correct, they did not especially want to snake a speedometer 
cable all the way from the back of the car. There is a location for a 
mechanical speedo take-off on the manual transmission, but it is in 
the area of the ring gear. Since the ring gear was flipped over in 
the transition from front to rear drive application, the back side of 
the ring gear is up against the take-off point. Therefore, the pick-
up point is plugged in the DMC application. I've never looked at an 
automatic, but I'd bet that it doesn't even have the pickup point 
since it was a more "custom" transmission than the manual.

As an aside, BMW has been using electronic analog speedometers 
(driven by the rear differential) since the mid-80s.  Perhaps there 
is an idea for a creative car-crafter - use a BMW electronic pickup 
somewhere in differential area, and electronic speedo to get rid of 
the mechanical stuff once and for all. Another project that would 
undoubtedly cost all out of proportion to the net worth. 

Another interesting tidbit (sorry, I HAVE spent way too much time 
thinking about DMC speedometers) the Lucas speedo angle drive on an 
MGB is identical to the DMC drive (from outward appearance) but lacks 
the flexible input shaft since in an MGB it hangs on the 
transmission. Interestingly enough, it costs about the same from an 
MGB parts supplier as the DMC folks charge. A lot. 

Dave Swingle

> Mike Loasby answered that one at Eurofest. I can't quite recall... 
I think it 
> was partly cable length to the rear plus no take off hub on the 
tranny.  And 
> the fact that electronic speedos weren't available then. Anybody 
> that in better detail?


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 23:23:52 -0000
Subject: can't remove my fuel accumulator

I took my D in to my mechanic to get the fuel accumulator replaced.  
He could not remove the old one.  He said that the bolts were too 
rusted and there wasn't enough room there to work, and get enough 
leverage to un-do the bolts...
He said he tried for about 30 minutes and couldn't get it.  And I 
can't really tell him to keep trying or try it this way or that... 
(you can't really tell a mechanic how to do something, if you know 
what I mean... they will take it the wrong way)

So he basically said that I can come pick up my car whenever

So, what kind of options do I have.  Should I just try to take it to 
another mechanic and see if they can replace it ??

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Jim Teston #15314


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 19:23:18 -0500
Subject: Re: GONE IN 60 SECONDS

I just recently finished up a similar swap myself, (however, I went w/ a
Vortec 4.3)  At first I looked at putting in the LT1 or an LS1.  You could
easily make a bellhousing to fit, but the major problem is getting the motor
to fit without major modifications to the rear of the car.  Even with the V6
I had to cut the rear facia slightly.  Another issue was hooking the air
breather up to the air intake pleum.  Since the inlet is right at the front
of the LT1, it would be hard to install.  Also, did the LT1 come out of an
F-bod or Vette?  If not, it will have the iron heads and the weight in the
car will be EXTREMELY unbalanced.  Another factor is that the tranny
couldn't hold up to an LT1.  I've looked at alot of possiblilties of trying
to upgrade the stock tranny, but there really isn't anything short of
swapping the tranny out that would work.  (I haven't even found a reasonable
priced tranny that I could use in place of the DeLorean!)  The trannys in
the DeLorean are said to be able to take up to 250 hp, but I don't know if
that's true or not.  I'm in the ballpark of about 230 and the LT1 is 275 hp
in stock form.  Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have any other
questions, feel free to email me directly, especially if ya need any info on
the LT1 :)

Hope this helps,

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 2:11 PM
Subject: [DML] GONE IN 60 SECONDS ----------------->

> Hello list,
> I have acquired a LT1 350 motor with 36k on it. 


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 19:11:21 -0500
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: Re: Missing Grille

I understand, from my car's first owner, that emblems were commonly stolen
in the mid-late 80's because the initials were part of the rock group "Run
DMC" name.
The problem may be reoccuring because of the band's stupid attempt at
Ugh. (at both the band and the thievery)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Molino" <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: [DML] Missing Grille

> Dear DMC Joe or any other DMC'ers out there.
>  I either lost my front grille or someone stole it from me on Friday night
> in Northern NJ.  I was wondering if this was a common occurrence


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:24:20 EDT
Subject: Insurance....PLEASE HELP!

Hello List,
    I finally have my car ready to hit the road.  Since I am only 17 I am 
having it insured under my mother.(46,clean record etc)  She has Meemic 
insurance which has great rates but they wont insure a DMC.  She is going to 
put my DeLorean and my daily driver 88 VW jetta on a separate company.  She 
called around today(Allstate, AAA, Geico,Progressive)  The best rate was from 
Allstate at $288 a month.  This is a bit more than I can pay.  I would like 
to find something under $1300 year.  Can anyone on the list reccomend any 
other companies?  I would use collector car insurance but most companys say 
you must be at least 25 to drive the insured vehicle.  I checked the archives 
but there are so many that it is hard to read them all.  please email me 
privately if you would like.

Thanks List
628 6-


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 18:12:34 -0700
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Hunting at startup

Mine doesn't.  It did.  In December it was terrible, at startup would go
from about 500 rpm to about 1500 rpm, or more.  I found that I could
hold the accelerator at 1000 and it wasn't too bad.  I set the idle stop
at that point, still maintaining the idle micro switch in the closed
position.  I got on the list and asked what to do.  One and all said I
couldn't control the idle with the stop but since I was doing it and it
was working quite well, I asked for something else.  The usual answers
were given, close enough.  I took it to the local smog station, they put
it on the Dyno and reset the mixture,  I replaced the oxy sensor and put
a golf tee in the adjustment hole, set the idle stop back down and I now
have as smooth an idle at startup as you could ask for.  Starts alertly,
no hunting (I think Dick Ryan said the same thing about his).  Only time
it hunts is after it gets hot and is shut down for a bit and then is
started up again, a little hunting for about 10 minutes of driving and
that's it.  If your unit doesn't hunt at startup relax and enjoy!  I
mentioned previously that I get a tad over 26mpg so I have to believe
things are about as they should be.


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 22:39:43 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission


>What could cause the car starting in second (or 3rd?) gear ?

You are probably starting out in 2nd gear.  The cause?  A malfunction with
the governor computer or a stuck/bad solenoid.  This problem is probably
electrical in origin and not mechanical.

Probably the best diagnostic at this point is to hook up test lights in
parallel with the shift solenoids to see if they are ever being told to
switch on.  This will quickly tell you if your problem still remains in the
GC or lies elsewhere.  This diagnostic is thoroughly explained in the
archives -- if you can find it!  :)  Instead of using LEDs for test lights
and worrying about proper bias (direction and current), it is easier to just
get 12V panel light bulbs from Radio Shack.  They sell a 3 pack containing
red, yellow, and green.  They are small, bright and already have long wire
leads meant to be used in stereo equipment.  They also lend themselves well
to being hooked up to the GC connections at the firewall and being taped to
the rear window where you can watch them from the rear view mirror while you
are driving.

If you determine that the problem still lies with the GC then check the
electrical connections at the firewall.  They use banana-jack type
connectors and can be made more firm by very VERY slightly crushing them
with pliers.  (At each female banana jack, lightly squeeze perpendicularly
to the seam to make the tube slightly oval like you would for a loose tail
light bulb socket.)  Check for cold solder joints on the PCB, and make sure
that you reconnected everything correctly.  By the way, you mention, "My
solder ball points looked absolutely ok."  I suppose that you are correct in
your observation, but your terminology is strange.  What do you mean by a
solder ball point?  Good solder joints in this application are supposed to
look like inverted cusps -- not ball points.  (Ball-shaped connections on a
PCB means that the solder didn't stick to the trace properly.)  Also, check
to make sure that the new caps are good ones -- not open or shorted.  (I
have learned the hard way to always check discrete components before
installing them.)  If the caps are polarized, maybe you put them in
backwards.  By the way, did you put the modified PCB back in the GC or did
you mount it externally in a kit box?  Just curious...

>If no transistor would switch, which gear would be in use. ?

Second gear.  Your symptoms sound like your GC is either not connected or
completely not working.  Someone mentioned in the archives that unplugging
the GC electrically allows the transmission to be shifted manually.  I tried
this before, and it didn't work.  Unplugged, the transmission starts out in
2nd gear -- not 1st.

I haven't needed to get deep enough into a  GC (yet) to answer your other
questions.  Hopefully you won't need to find them out either.

I ended up buying a new GC from PJ Grady.  At the time, he had two models
available.  One cost a few dollars more than the other and was considered a
little better, so I opted for it.  Does anyone know if the newer GCs have
better or different electronics inside than the OEMs?  I didn't want to
break the seal on the new one to find out -- you know, if it works, don't
fix it.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 22:45:13 -0400
From: "CBL302" <>
Subject: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)

DMC Joe wrote:

>This is not the first time I have heard of this happening. Actually I find this somewhat of >a mystery when there is no obvious way that a person not knowledge with the >DeLorean would know how to remove the grill. If all of the fasteners are in good ?>condition and the grill is properly secured it is normally not easy to take the grill off. >The security chain sounds like a reasonable option.

>DMC Joe

>.--- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Joseph Molino" <>

>  I either lost my front grille or someone stole it from me on Friday night
> in Northern NJ.  I was wondering if this was a common occurrence. 

Actually it may be more common than you think,I have a tape of a old show from the early eighty's of a show called PM Magazine,in which they do a (really nice) story about the Delorean and the Factory shutdown,in that show,they show a New Delorean going around the FACTORY test track on it's maiden run,and THE GRILL is already missing/flew off/stolen.


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 23:00:23 EDT
Subject: Turn signals again....

Well, my dad and I bought a new steering column, with the two trunks, a while 
ago. Don't remember if they canceled with the original. Maybe when we 
installed it, we didn't put something in the right place???

Anyone have a clue?

John Feldman
VIN 4275

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to