From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 573
Date: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 2:44 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
From: "CBL302" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

2. Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)
From: gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com

3. Re: bosch
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

4. Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

5. Re: Automatic transmission
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

6. Re: K&N Setup from Eurofest
From: gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com

7. Re: re no rough idle
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

8. Re: oil guage
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

9. Re: Missing Grille
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

10. Re: Stuck in gears
From: Josh Weader <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>

11. engine cleaning
From: Farrar <smeghead79_at_dml_home.com>

12. Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Insurance....PLEASE HELP!
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com

14. Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Insurance.- State Farm
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

16. Re: Re: oil guage
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

17. Re: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

18. Re: bosch
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

19. Temperature Gauge sender
From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com>

20. Re: Re: K&N Setup from Eurofest
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Automatic transmission
From: "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com>

22. Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. 1983 DeLorean 4-door
From: dinopremo_at_dml_yahoo.com

24. Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

25. VIN 4100
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 00:02:59 -0400
From: "CBL302" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/


  : "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net> Wrote:
Subject: Re: Delorean galvanized frames

According to Mike Loasby, one of the senior engineers at the factory, they
did trials on a galvanized chassis frame, they liked everything except that
some of the threaded holes needed to be re-tapped out again, because of zinc
build up. This slowed down the production process too much..see his
technical  video produced following the 1997 Eurofest.


Ironically,that could have possibly saved the factory,from closing (the slow down)Again Lotus was putting out Espirits,with galvanized frames at that time (and today) with basically the same threaded holes/studs,and they did not worry about it,and switch to a "epoxy frame",the thing JZD SHOULD have done,was stuck to his guns,and not listen to Lotus,and Stuck with his original plans with the ERM process(Elastic Reservoir Molding)Developed by Composite Technology Corporation(another Delorean Company),NOW that would have been a major breakthru in Frame/body design/engineering.
Also on the subject of frames,did any of the factory prototypes have a Stainless Steel frame,under them,I remember reading a article that James Espey wrote,about going to look at a pre-production prototype Delorean at a major auction(Cruise auction I think) and he quotes that on that pertiuclar Delorean that it,  DID NOT have a epoxy coated frame but a "Bare Metal" frame,could this have been a Factory Test mule for a possible future SS frame for our Deloreans? It has just come to me where I read that, here is a link:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/Prototype/prototype.html  Also I sure would love to know what vin Number that car had. James any comment
 


Claude
000570




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 04:23:02 -0000
From: gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com
Subject: Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Ok, so I want to go to my local parts store Auto Zone and get
> a cap rotor, plugs, and plug wires.
> What is the Bosch part numbers for the Cap, rotor, plug wires...


You should contact your Friendly Neighborhood Delorean Parts Vendor.  
I checked usadmc.com and they have the rotor/cap for about $50, and
the wires for about $100.  I doubt AutoZone could beat that price
substantially and will be of ZERO assistance with the specifics of 
your DMC.

If you're determined to get the parts locally, the store should have 
application data available.  I used to work for CCI/Triad, who 
supplies auto parts databases to the auto industry, and the parts men 
loved to point out the inadequacies of our computer system by 
attempting to look up the most exotic and esoteric cars, including 
the Delorean.  (I didn't have my DMC at the time).  These cars had 
very few listings for parts, but did show most tune-up parts like 
filters.

Come to think of it, our database was limited to 20 years (I think) 
so they might not find a 1981.  No problem, they should have a 6-foot 
rack of parts catalogs with application data.  Not there?  They can 
pick up the phone and call the warehouse, which they'll need to do 
anyway if the parts aren't in stock; they should special-order such 
parts without additional charge if the warehouse has them.

And if they still can't find a listing, you don't want to order "real 
close" items anyway.  You're best bet is a Delorean supplier.

We used to amuse ourselves by finding crossovers in the computer and 
pointing out that such listings are not absolute.  We could find a 
filter from manufacturer "A" that crossed to the filter of mfg "B", 
which subsequently crossed to "C".  But "A" and "C" did not cross to 
each other, and if you put the 3 side-by-side they were all 
completely different.

Remember, when you look at a crossover from "Phram" for your Toyota 
Crapola, it's not a filter endorsed or even approved by Toyota, it's 
the closest thing that "Phram" manufactures that will thread into 
your engine without air tools.  They have to list something in their 
catalog, or they can't sell to you, right?  DON'T USE A CROSSOVER IF 
YOU CAN AVOID IT, USE THE RIGHT PART THE FIRST TIME!


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 04:21:00 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: bosch

I don't have the numbrs off hand but they all cross over to a 1982 
Volvo 260 GLE. You are going to have a hard time finding them since 
every auto parts store I've been to didn't have them in stock. I had 
a friend of mine who worked in an autoparts supply house order them 
for me. Was worth the wait...got them at cost ;)

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Ok, so I want to go to my local parts store Auto Zone and get a cap 
rotor, 
> plugs, and plug wires.
> What is the Bosch part numbers for the Cap, rotor, plug wires? or 
are they 
> listed some where? Thanks so much!
> 
>                          Ryan- vin.#16301
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 04:23:37 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator

Why are you touching the fuel accumulater? The only reason to replace 
it is if you are having hard hot start problems. Assuming that is the 
reason your mechanic is correct, it is very difficult to access. You 
need small hands and stubby wrenches and a lot of patience. If he 
didn't want to do it consider yourself lucky that he gave up before 
twisting and kinking any fuel lines. Find yourself a mechanic who will 
try a little harder, maybe someone in your area can recomend another 
shop or a Delorean vender can help you find someone who can do it. In 
any case before you go replacing it make sure it is bad.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., orentha_at_dml_h... wrote:
> I took my D in to my mechanic to get the fuel accumulator replaced. 
 
> He could not remove the old one.



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 04:37:15 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission

Refer to Workshop Manual G:04:01. At the bottom of the page is a chart 
that explains what the shift computer does. Get the test light set-up 
installed so you can watch the solenoids energize and compare to the 
chart. If EL2 is always powered (sticking you in second gear) then the 
switching transistor has probably shorted. In extreme cases after the 
caps blow up sometimes the transistors go too. The erratic shifting is 
a combination of moisture, bad solder joints and blown caps. 
Unfortunatly we do not have a schematic of the shift computer. If you 
find one of the transistors shorted my advice would be to replace both 
of them since you are in there, they are cheap and the surge that 
killed one probably damaged the other and it will soon fail.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" 
<arne.hofmann_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I had the common erratic shifting problems with my
> automatic transmission.
> Thanks to Mark Hershey I understood very well, where
> the problem comes from. I replaced the broken caps
> and added the two 0.1 microfarad caps to the GND and
> VCC supply of the comparators. > A schematic (even handdrawn) would be a great help. 
> 
> Thanks a lot!



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 04:40:55 -0000
From: gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com
Subject: Re: K&N Setup from Eurofest

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> 
> Based on the information provided to me the K&N filter company
> doesn't currently offer a filter for the DeLorean. The instructions
> for installation of a K&N filter for another car, utilized for the
> DMC, is to install the filter upside down.

Ack! Do not do this!

There is a close-fit K&N but unless you are very meticulous you will 
get blow-by, negating the effect of the filter.

  http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/nov99files/dmcnews%20digest4452-
4502.htm


Your best bet is to get the custom-made K&N collar:

  http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/k-n.html




Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 05:00:17 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: re no rough idle

To check for vacuum leaks first do a complete visual inspection of all 
of the hoses. This may require removal of some to examine properly. 
You can use a vacuum tester on each one and pull a vacuum and watch 
how long it takes to bleed off. You could plug hoses and see if that 
improves the idle. The point is there is no one way to do this. If you 
suspect a vacuum leak you must be very methodical and check everything 
but first look for the obvious like a hose fell from in front of the 
motor by the firewall. On an automatic don't forget to check the line 
to the modulater! A noisy mode switch can be a major vacuum leak. Also 
make sure that the idle motor is controlling the idle, you can test 
this by pulling off the plug to the idle motor. If this doesn't affect 
the idle then it isn't controlling it. All three of the large brass 
adjusting screws on the air inlet manifold should be LIGHTLY seated 
closed and the idle micro switch should be working so that at idle it 
clicks. If the cold start valve was running continously you would be 
flooding the motor so I don't think the problem is there. Pull the 
plug on it if you want to convince yourself.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> >The 
> >mixture screw is a very sensitive adjustment so if a 1/2 turn isn't 
> >making a difference you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere 
(which 
> >might account for your bad gas mileage)
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 04:43:58 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: oil guage

Your gauge is working perfectly; that is, normal for a stock origional 
sending unit. If you are not happy with that and would like to see it 
move contact Marty Maier at PNDMC. They offer a sending unit that 
seems to do a much better job. I put one in my car and am very happy 
with it now.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Since My oil pressure guage has read the same since I've owned my 
DeLorean I 
> just wanted to ask and find out what it SHOULD read. Mine reads 80 
all the 
> time except start up. is this too high? I'm not sure where should 
the oil 
> pressure be? Thanks a bunch!
> 
>                          Ryan- vin.#16301
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 05:06:10 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Missing Grille

On the subject of missing parts at the spring dust-off Tom Gripenger 
(I hope I spelled your name right?) should have had a safety cable on 
his gearshift knob. It seems someone needed a souvenier of the event 
and poor Tom had to drive homwe without it. At shows I put my lighter 
in the "vault". You never know what can stick to some people's 
fingers!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> > 
> >  I either lost my front grille or someone stole it from me on 
Friday night
> > in Northern NJ.  I was wondering if this was a common occurrence.




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:43:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Josh Weader <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>
Subject: Re: Stuck in gears


> way home from work (20 mile trip)sometimes I was stuck in 1st gear
> sometimes 2nd when I tried to shift and it did the gears crunched!
> But everytime I stopped waited switched off and then set off again

Have you checked the level of fluid in the clutch master cylinder
reservoir?  If you're low on fluid in the clutch line, it could exhibit
these symptoms.

--Josh
vin #5553




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 00:36:31 -0700
From: Farrar <smeghead79_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: engine cleaning

Simple Green is a great way to clean your engine, I dilute it with water
(1 part water to 2 parts Simple Green) on recommendation from my
bro-in-law; I forget why he recommended it, but he is a mechanic so I
did it anyway. I used to clean my Duster with Simple Green, and I had to
"polish" some bits with a brass brush, the kind you clean off the
barbecue grill with, if I came across any really tough crud. If you use
one of those, be careful to avoid any hoses. ;)

Best of luck, sorry for the late reply.

By the way, those of you following my car affairs, the Duster was
totalled. I got $2700 for it, which I used as a down payment for a 1998
Ford Ranger. Perhaps when I get the DeLorean I can tow it home with the
truck. Har har.

All the best.

Farrar Hudkins
89.9 WWNO
New Orleans, LA



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 02:22:07 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)

In a message dated 6/5/01 11:09:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CBL302_at_dml_msn.com 
writes:

<< Actually it may be more common than you think,I have a tape of a old show 
from the early eighty's of a show called PM Magazine,in which they do a 
(really nice) story about the Delorean and the Factory shutdown,in that 
show,they show a New Delorean going around the FACTORY test track on it's 
maiden run,and THE GRILL is already missing/flew off/stolen. >>

I don't think the grill fell off.  I remember seeing in a video I have 
somewhere of the delorean factory, and they showed a DMC worker, parking a 
delorean outside with a whole line of other deloreans, and they all didn't 
have the grill in place yet.  Maybe they just didn't install them yet.  It 
doesn't take that much to install them, it could have been one of the last 
things to install.  Just a thought...

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 07:25:23 -0000
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Re: Insurance....PLEASE HELP!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List,
..)  The best 
rate was from 
> Allstate at $288 a month.  This is a bit more than I can pay.  I 
would like 
> to find something under $1300 year.  Can anyone on the list 
reccomend any 
> other companies?  > 
> 
> Thanks List
> David Delorean17ATaol.com
> 628 6-

Here in Connecticut,what you can do is put seasonal ins. on your car
What that is,is that Certain times(seasons)of the year the Vehicle is 
not used,the insurance is temporarily removed,(in effect cutting your 
premiums in half)(you cannot drive the car during this period)but the 
registeration is still in effect,since most people do not drive their 
Deloreans in the Winter.  

Claude
000570




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 12:49:07 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...

Jeff, I would jump #30 and #87 on the RPM relay to make sure the fuel 
pump is giving gas to the system. If it is pumping gas, then that may 
eliminate a defective fuel pump. If the pump doesn't run after 
jumping the wires then defective pump. There is a pulse coil in the 
distributor that accuates the RPM relay. If the coil goes, which they 
do, then it will show this kind of symptom.The ignition coil will 
also breakdown due to heat after a while. Make sure you have fire to 
the plugs during a no start time. You can see the pulse coil and 
diagram on the web site. http://www.specialtauto.com/
John Hervey 


- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jeff Wiltzius <wiltzius_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> It has been quite sometime since I've posted- and unfortunately 
this 
> time I'm having a showstopper problem. Quick summary- car won't 
> start- just turns over



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 13:48:24 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance.- State Farm

A new addition to this thread which seems to come up about once a 
month. We often hear State Farm mentioned (including by me) as "DMC-
friendly". About a month ago I referred someone locally having 
difficulty, to my State Farm agent (where I've been for over 20 years 
with all my insurance). She received a nice letter from my agent 
stating that State Farm will no longer write "new business" DeLorean 
insurance. On the copy I received from my agent, the agent added a 
blind footnote that I would have no difficulty maintaining coverage 
since I already have the car, and if I was to purchase another they 
would "probably" cover it due to my long history with then. My 
current rate is $240 for the six months I drive it, and $35 for the 
six months I don't (you can tell I'm not exactly under 25).

This seems to be a recent change at the SF corporate level, and would 
explain why there seems to be many happy State Farm customers on the 
list, and others are getting turned down.  

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List,
>     I finally have my car ready to hit the road.  Since I am only 
17 I am 
> having it insured under my mother




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 07:21:12 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Re: oil guage

My stock original gauge reads at about the 3/4 mark.   A gauge that reads
only full on and full off would be suspect in my world.

jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:

> Your gauge is working perfectly; that is, normal for a stock origional




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:39:18 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/

Too bad "Core-10" wasn't tried.  It is a steel alloy available at that time
that has only one oxidation state.  It was developed for steel bridges and
such where painting was undesirable or impractical.  It has a very low
nickel content that allows it to rust and than stabilize with one molecule
of iron associated with one molecule of oxygen.  Normal rust propagates
because of a never ending conversion of FeO into Fe2-O3 and the cycle just
keeps on repeating without forming a stable oxide layer.  Core-10 stopped
with a dark brown layer that never went any deeper.  It is relatively cheap,
is weldable and would not have had the low temperature fracture problems.
Silly thoughts at this point.

Eurofest inspired me to go start my "Hanger Queens" that haven't been run in
5-10 years.  Of the three in question, all had air in the tires, all fluids
appeared up and clean and the #1 fired off and ran beautifully.  No cold
hunt or anything.  Lets hope #2  & #3 will repeat tomorrow!  One thing I did
was to fully fill the gas tanks.  I was told that gas will not go bad if
deprived of atmospheric oxygen.  An empty tank breaths and has a large
surface exposure to atmospheric oxygen.  A full tank does not, especially if
it can be filled up into the filler neck.  This might help out someone else
down the line.  I suspect the same would be true for the brake fluid.

Donald L. Ekhoff


----- Original Message -----
From: "CBL302" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 9:02 PM
Subject: [DML] : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean
galvanized frames/


>
>   : "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net> Wrote:
> Subject: Re: Delorean galvanized frames
>
> According to Mike Loasby, one of the senior engineers at the factory, they
> did trials on a galvanized chassis frame, they liked everything except
that
> some of the threaded holes needed to be re-tapped out again, because of
zinc
> build up. This slowed down the production process too much..see his
> technical  video produced following the 1997 Eurofest.



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 15:05:48 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: bosch

Here are the part numbers that I have ordered through my friends 
parts place:

BOSCH  09095 Spark Plug Wire Set   
BOSCH  03035 Distributor Cap  
BOSCH  04018 Ignition Rotor  

These part are due to arrive to me tomorrow (June 7). I'll let you 
know what the outcome is. BTW all of these parts cost about $80.00 on 
carparts.com (even cheaper if you find an electronic coupon code on 
one of those coupn web sites)

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Ok, so I want to go to my local parts store Auto Zone and get a cap 
rotor, 
> plugs, and plug wires.
> What is the Bosch part numbers for the Cap, rotor, plug wires? or 
are they 
> listed some where? Thanks so much!
> 
>                          Ryan- vin.#16301
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 11:15:34 -0400
From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com>
Subject: Temperature Gauge sender

I've got a situation with my '83 in which the temperature gauge does not work. Because of this, it seems a good idea to check out the temperature sending unit. Unfortunately I've been unable to determine where this device is located.

I'd really appreciate it if someone can give a general description of where it is.

Thanks Much In Advance,

George Ryerson
Akron Ohio


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:44:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: K&N Setup from Eurofest



K&N suggests the use of "sealing grease" when
installing any of their filters.  This grease stays
thick even when subjected to heat.  In the case of the
DeLorean, use of the grease does, in fact, pretty well
seal the area around the filter, making up for it
being just a tad undersized.  This, in addition to
using the brackets from the mid-state club, should
preclude dirt getting through. 

I am currently using this set-up and have not noticed
any unusual build-up on the throttle body plate.  

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867 



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 18:47:24 +0200
From: "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com>
Subject: Automatic transmission

> GC or lies elsewhere.  This diagnostic is thoroughly explained in the
> archives -- if you can find it!  :) 

Unfortunatly, i could not find it. Can somebody provide the link?

> the rear window where you can watch them from the rear view mirror while you
> are driving.

I will try this. Two solenoids end up on three cables. I measured 
+12V against ground on all three when I put in Position D (with 
ignition on and motor off). Do they have constantly a shared 12V 
cable and are switched against ground ? Does somebody
know the pinout.
 
> If you determine that the problem still lies with the GC then check the
> electrical connections at the firewall.  They use banana-jack type
> connectors and can be made more firm by very VERY slightly crushing them
> with pliers.

I tried this - but did not help.

> solder ball points looked absolutely ok."  I suppose that you are correct in
> your observation, but your terminology is strange.  What do you mean by a
> solder ball point?

Sorry, that was just the wrong expression - i am german :-)

> installing them.)  If the caps are polarized, maybe you put them in
> backwards. 

This is ok.

> By the way, did you put the modified PCB back in the GC or did
> you mount it externally in a kit box?  Just curious...

Next time, I work on the "computer" it will surely land in a box ;-)
 
> Second gear.  Your symptoms sound like your GC is either not connected or
> completely not working.  Someone mentioned in the archives that unplugging
> the GC electrically allows the transmission to be shifted manually.  I tried
> this before, and it didn't work.  Unplugged, the transmission starts out in
> 2nd gear -- not 1st.

I checked again. It is the third gear. A look in the manual G:04:01
(thank you jtrealty(AT)webspan.net) will verify this. 
Today in a testdrive I found out , that I can manually change the 
gear from D (the not shifting 3rd gear) to 2 what really shifts in
the secon gear. Unfortunatly shifting manually to Position 1 does not
cause a shift in the first gear. Sounds like a difficult one ?!?

Don't laugh, but I already start thinking about overriding the whole 
computercrap with a manually gear changing possibility. Maybe in
connection with the automatic bar.
Has anybody had the same crazy idea - or maybe a solution.
I read about one guy, using a knobswitch. It should be a little more 
comfortable but must be of course avoid to switch to first gear, 
while driving 70mph ;-)

Arne

Beta LAYOUT GmbH
Feldstrasse 2
65326 Aarbergen

Tel.: 0049 6120 907010
Fax.: 0049 6120 907014

http://www.pcb-pool.com
http://www.schablone.de
arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com



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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:36:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)

Years ago when cars had "collectable" hood ornaments,
theft increased twice a year.  Once when college
started in the fall (room decorations) and again when
school was about to let out (souvenirs).  The timing
of the missing grill and the re-emergence of "Run DMC"
would lead me to suspect that the grill is now
decorating someone's wall.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867 

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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 17:23:53 -0000
From: dinopremo_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: 1983 DeLorean 4-door


I have stumbled across something interesting...

a 1983 DeLorean 4-door, stretched limousine. Between the front and 
rear doors there is a fixed glass window, the rear doors look exactly 
like the front doors and operate the same. The stretch is probably 
around 72" and there is a power operated glass partition behind the 
front seats. The interior is black leather with silver mouton 
carpeting. The exterior is raw stainless steel. The car is absolutely 
perfect inside and out, it has been kept in air-conditioned/heated 
storage, and has 7300 miles on the clock. It has also been kept in 
running condition, with current state license/emissions stickers, and 
I did take it for a short drive around the parking lot. It has a 6-
cylinder engine with an automatic transmission.

A couple of questions...

   a) Does anyone know which coachbuilder did these limousines? I 
looked for a body tag with the coachbuilder's name on it, but I 
didn't find any. The current owner, who also originally had the car 
made, couldn't remember.

   b) Any idea on how many of these were made? This is the first one 
I have ever seen, but I'll admit, I haven't been following the 
DeLorean saga too closely.

   c) The owner said, "120,000 and it's yours!" Do you think this a 
fair price?

I'm seriously considering purchasing this one, it will be my first 
DeLorean (and newest car!) I have in the collection.

I'll try to post some pictures of it when I get them back from being 
developed and have a chance to scan them.


TIA

Dino




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 15:11:55 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)

Dear list,

I am sad to report I have found my grille after searching for 4 days (1hour
each) on Route 24 in NJ.  I am sad because it was run over a couple of times
and it is wasted.  I am, at least, glad it was not stolen.  I still need a
new one, which I am not in the mood to buy but have to since the car looks
less appealing.  I have no idea how it could have come loose since most of
the studs were on it.  Remember to check yours so this doesn't happen to
you.  Any info on any used or new grilles would be appreciated.  Thanks

Joseph Molino, NJ
2850  (The Maryland car)



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 19:33:35 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: VIN 4100

Does anyone have any information about VIN 4100?  I looked at the 
chronology and it's not listen there.  Any help would be appreciated.

Erik




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