From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 575
Date: Thursday, June 07, 2001 5:17 AM

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There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cold Galvanizing
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <>

2. Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator

3. Re: tin can sound

4. Used Auto Transmission value?
From: "ian" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 19:47:28 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <>
Subject: Re: Cold Galvanizing

I will attest to the effectiveness of this product.  The only caveat is that
you need to apply it to clean metal.  It is tolerant of residual rust but
the old epoxy must be removed.  I stabilized an old Bug Eye Sprite
throughout the frame by building a spray tip on the end of a flexible tube
and inserting it into all the frame tubes that were rusting from the inside
out.  15 years later not a sign of rust and these were areas where no prep
(and no old paint) was present and rust was having a field day.
I also use it on boat trailers that are exposed to salt water and have
excellent results.  WW Grainger sells a similar product:  Stock # 5W180 in a
spray can for $7.70/can.

Donald L. Ekhoff

----- Original Message -----
From: "Capt'n Mike" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 2:10 PM
Subject: [DML] Cold Galvanizing

> As a manufacturer of large equipment for the US Navy I can testify to the
> effectiveness of Cold Galvanizing. 


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 03:05:06 -0000
Subject: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator

To verify the accumulater is the cause of the hard hot start after 
trying to restart hot switch the plugs on the control pressure 
regulater with the cold start valve. If it starts right up shut it off 
immediatly and replace the plugs. This verifies that the system is not 
holding rest pressure and can be caused by a bad accumulater or a bad 
or missing check valve on the fuel pump. Remove the return line to the 
accumulater and if fuel is comming out of the accumulater from the 
return hose the accumulater is bad. Caution the shop doing the work 
that they must take EXTREME care not to kink or twist the fuel lines, 
doing so will require lifting the body from the frame to replace them!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., orentha_at_dml_h... wrote:
> I do have a hot start problem. 
> Basically my car won't start when the engine is warm.


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 03:11:54 -0000
Subject: Re: tin can sound

The "tin can sound" might also be the idler bearings for the a/c belt 
or less likely a bad water pump, usually they leak before the bearings 
go in them though. Another remote possability is that one of the 
covers by the flywheel got bent and is hitting the flywheel or torque 
converter. The best way to find the source of the noise is to jack up 
the car safely and have someone run it while you search underneath.
The timming could be way off or maybe the octane is very low, you are 
supposed to put 91 octane in. (See owner's manual for octane 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., delorean502_at_dml_e... wrote:
> When I accelarate and my RPMs get around 2500 to 3500, my engine 
> sounds like a tin can with rocks in it.  I don't notice any 
> performace difference, but the sound makes me not want to rev up 
> high.  Any ideas before I start to poke and prod around?
> Erik


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 11:13:15 +0800
From: "ian" <>
Subject: Used Auto Transmission value?

Hi DMLers,

Anyone have any ideas on the value of a DMC automatic transmission (28k
miles, with service records, from a front-end hit car). Whats a fair price?

Regards,           IAN


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