From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 591
Date: Sunday, June 17, 2001 4:28 AM

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There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling problems
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Cooling fans refuse to work right
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Hot Start frustration
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Hot Start frustration
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com

5. Fast corner and electrical died!
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Re: Cooling problems
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

7. Leaking fuel distributor
From: "Jerry Harry" <jerryHarry_at_dml_msn.com>

8. RE: Leaking fuel distributor
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

9. Project Delorean Site Update: 3.0 Conversion Begins
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com

10. Damn It's Hot In Here!
From: noflux_at_dml_yahoo.com

11. Seat Belt Retraction/Hollow Bolt
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

12. Re: Seat Belt Retraction/Hollow Bolt
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com

13. [ETDOC] JULY 8 MEET at Biltmore Estate
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. DeLorean Vandalism..
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

15. Advice on tuning my engine
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 00:26:02 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cooling problems

Lynn, The thermostat could be stuck a little and not opening as it should or 
the wrong temp unit was used, The correct unit use the 87C unit as called for 
which is 189F. I have them on the web site and the Volvo # is 273480-4. You 
could also have just a simple loose wire on the temp sending unit or a bad 
sending unit.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
  



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 00:47:36 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cooling fans refuse to work right

Aaron, By process of elimination you have done about all the checking you can 
do.  By shorting the coolant temp switch tells me you are getting power from 
the voltage source and it's going to the intended source. The circuit is 
working. I would repIace the temp swt again, maby you got a bad one twice. I 
have had 2 bad switches out of ten that I bought bad on the get go. I just 
sent another one out that was stuck closed. Another thing you can do to test 
the temp switch. Let the car heat up and tap on the pipe next to the switch. 
If it's ready to switch and won't this will help. I will send you one to test 
if you want.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com  



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 01:14:08 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Start frustration

Jay, The air flow sensor piviots the control plunger up and down in the fuel 
distributor with back pressure coming from the control pressure regulator. If 
the control plunger in the fuel distributor is adjusted to lean and your on 
the border line of the plunger sitting to far down as to not allow fuel to 
the injectors, then what your describing will happen. Just a 1/4 turn, I 
think clock would make a difference in the air flow plate which adjust the 
control plunger. It's like tinkering with a clock. As the 02 sensor ages and 
changes the voltage that goes thru the ECU to adjust the Frequency valve 
which changes mixture of air/gas this is why over a period of time the cars 
have to go in for as check up and adjustments. The only other thing would be 
the back pressure of gas going back to the tank. But, if you have a new fuel 
pump, is not likley the check valve would be bad.. Also, make sure the wires 
on the CPR or warm up regulator are good. In the warm position, the CPR 
should have very little effect on the plunger.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com  



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 05:43:40 -0000
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Start frustration

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., badgeman46_at_dml_h... wrote:
>    My DeLorean won't start once it has been shut off from operating 
> temp. I have been trying to figure this one out to no avail. I 
> replaced the accumulator, which helped it in cold starting, but not 
> hot starting. I just finished getting a new fuel pump installed. 
The 
> old pump was corroded away to nothing, and it would have died soon, 
> but alas it did not solve my hot start problem. Any Ideas?? 
> -Jay

Look at my post about the fuel distributor under "hot start" in May

Scot
6452




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 22:47:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fast corner and electrical died!

I came around the corner pretty fast at the end of the
street (streets are clear) and next thing I know, the
engine's dead and the lights are dim.  Looks like a
battery disconnected, but no, I have some power, just
hardly enough to raise or lower the window.  The
engine will not turn over either.  So I coasted into
the driveway.  Oil light turned on too.  
     So what'd I do???
Mechanicaly Challenged fast driver

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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 02:06:24 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling problems

Gus, and group, When the low pressure switch is closed as David said, the 
voltage will go to the fans wheather the compressor comes on or not as long 
as the ground  thru the compressor is there and the diode isn't blown and the 
relay is good and the fan voltage is there from the brown wire.  If the low 
pressure switch opens,  then the voltage goes away to the The Fan Fix relay 
coil , then there goes The Fan Fail that is in line with the fans. Now, If 
the water temp switches opens or closes, that two will turn the fans on and 
off. The fans will respond to commands from both of the circuits too open or 
close or do both at the same time. Page 232 & 233 of the tech book. On page 
241 of the tech book, it shows two switches. My air man said it was a high 
and a low pressure.. Who knows.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 07:54:31 -0500
From: "Jerry Harry" <jerryHarry_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Leaking fuel distributor

Hello List:
Well I found my gas leak, small as it is, it still must be fixed before I can drive the car again.

This car had a small fire in the area below the air intake before I got it, it had burned some of the vac lines and the face off the heater transfer vac unit. I replaced all the copper seals thinking the gas was coming from one of the lines after it sits for awhile.  
The fuel distributor has a small gas leak on the back side at the joint were the top and bottom haves meet. I took the unit off and tried to tighten it but it is very tight already.
Is this a common problem? How does one stop this leak? I have priced a new one ,boy that is out of the question for a little leak like this.
Does anyone know of a rebuild or something other than a $1000.00 new one.

Jerry
Vin # 4890


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:03:31 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: Leaking fuel distributor

If you had a fire there, you probably melted some of the ruber pieces inside
the fuel distributor.  I have fixed two of them for friends and it is a
tough job.  You will have to go to a local auto parts store and manualy
match up some of the ruber parts that you replace.  There are no cross
reference part numbers available yet. (next time I will write them down).
Anyway, they are small and it is easy to screw it up.  Should you try and do
it, the toughest part is to make sure it is so clean that the metal on metal
will seal properly.  Then you have to tighten it harder than you can
imagine.  (next time I will also note the torque needed).  Anyway, if you
have the money buy a new or rebuilt one, if the money is an issue, you can
do it but it may take a few days of trial and error.

Jack.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Harry [mailto:jerryHarry_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 8:55 AM
To: DMCnews
Subject: [DML] Leaking fuel distributor


Hello List:
Well I found my gas leak, small as it is, it still must be fixed before I
can drive the car again.

This car had a small fire in the area below the air intake before I got it,
it had burned some of the vac lines and the face off the heater transfer vac
unit. I replaced all the copper seals thinking the gas was coming from one
of the lines after it sits for awhile.
The fuel distributor has a small gas leak on the back side at the joint were
the top and bottom haves meet. 



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 14:07:26 EDT
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Project Delorean Site Update: 3.0 Conversion Begins

I've update the Project Delorean site again.  This time I've begun the PRV 
3.0 Conversion.  I've pulled the engine from the Eagle and begun the 
disassembly and cleaning process.  Pictures of everything are posted on the 
site.  Check 'em out!

Steve

       VIN 02650 ("Project Delorean")
       http://www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 19:48:11 -0000
From: noflux_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Damn It's Hot In Here!

Hello List,

My A/C condenser is bad and has a leak and needs replaced. I was 
wondering if any one on the list has done the condenser replacment 
before. If you have done this before (or if you know how) could you 
please post the procedure. I look forward to any input on this and 
thanks again.

Thanks and God Bless...
# 10694




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:52:27 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: Seat Belt Retraction/Hollow Bolt

Hello list,

Ever since I got my DeLorean I have had problem with the seat belt retraction. 

I wonder what is considered "normal" seat belt retraction on the DeLorean?

On my car, mostly on the LH side (but also on the RH side) the seat belt retracts back and away from the person in the seat, but hangs down in what I would call a "lazy" position. With the help of my hands I can make the seatbelt go all the way up and stay there. But is rather annoying. I would suspect that the seatbelts would retract as in a new car - all the way back and up and stay there. 

Do I need new seatbelt assy's maybe?

The car has only got 15,000 miles on it, and the seatbelts themselves look like new. Can anything be adjusted in the seatbelt retraction unit?

Also, when replacing the rear speakers in my DeLorean, I noticed that there was a hollow bolt + the fastening bolt on the passenger side, whereas on the drivers side, there was only the fastening bolt. I'm talking about the bolt that fastens the seatbelt in the top, and which goes through the rear speaker panel. 

From what I understand the function of the hollow bolt (in lack of a better word) is to adjust the angle of the top seatbelt holder, in other words the hollow bolt causes "free play" in the fastening bolt. The fastening bolt goes through the hollow bolt (more like a tube) and from there into the threads in the glassfibre underbody. Strange that this hollow bolt isn't on the drivers side. Is it suppose to be like this? 

The Parts Manual does not give an answer since the bolt isn't featured in the illustration.

Any suggestions to my problems are welcomed!

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 02:52:24 -0000
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Retraction/Hollow Bolt

Stian,

I know what you're talking about with the "hollow bolt" (for lack of
a better term) I just replaced my speakers a month or so ago.  Both of
my seat belts also had a "hollow bolt."

John Yeoman

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Hello list,
> 
> Ever since I got my DeLorean I have had problem with the seat belt
retraction. 

[MOD snip]

> From what I understand the function of the hollow bolt (in lack of
a better word) is to adjust the angle of the top seatbelt holder, in
other words the hollow bolt causes "free play" in the fastening bolt.
The fastening bolt goes through the hollow bolt (more like a tube)
and from there into the threads in the glassfibre underbody. Strange
that this hollow bolt isn't on the drivers side. Is it suppose to be
like this? 



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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:05:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: [ETDOC] JULY 8 MEET at Biltmore Estate

Hey All-

I have decided that I will prolly go to Ashville,NC the
night of the 7th of July so that I can better prepare
everything for the meet on the morning of the 8th. So, if
anyone would be interested in staying at the same hotel as
I do and we could all go out for dinner or just sit around
and talk DeLoreans, that would be great!

If you are interested, just email me privatly and I will
let you know of the hotel I will be staying (haven't
decided as of yet, but will in  a day or so).

Thanks,

Aaron Posey
ETDOC
3202

cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com

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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 19:32:12 EDT
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: DeLorean Vandalism..

Well, I had my first experience with idiot wanna-be vandals last night.  I decided to take my D out to a local Dennys and parked it next to a car load of people eating fast food (interestingly enough, I think they were middle-aged ladies and younger females).  I always try to keep it within eye-sight of where we are sitting inside, and sure enough after about 2-3 minutes my fiance says she saw something go flying towards my car from the parked car which was now slowly driving by checking out the D.  I went outside, the car drove away, and it seems they took pleasure it hucking an open sauce packet at my car.  The funny thing is that they largely MISSED, and hit an older VW bug next to the DeLorean.  (I kind of felt like Michael Douglas in that one scene from Falling Down where the gangsters try to shoot him straight on and miss.)  :) 

Anyway, so much for the jealous/stupid (and disrespectful!) frog people.  (A pathetic thing like this could only happen in the central valley of California.)  All I had was a small streak of Jack in the Box sauce on my windshield.  But what I'm wondering is if any others out there have "vandalism" stories to tell.  To me, this just confirms my opinion that owners run the risk of bad things happening if they leave their Ds unatended and out of sight for long periods of time.  So keep an eye on your DeLorean!

Richard (sauce free)



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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 23:18:49 -0000
From: Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl
Subject: Advice on tuning my engine

Hello everyone,

I need some advice for my car: I had the Cat replaced by a pipe a 
couple of months ago (which is legal here) to get a little more 
performance out of my car.
This DID do the trick, not much, but noticable enough. The car was 
behaving beautifully when I got it back from the shop untill about 
three weeks ago. When Idling you can smell some unburned gasoline
from 
the exhausts (and no: I'm not kneeling down to notice) and I get VERY 
frequent backfires. I even get them when taking my foot off of the 
accelerator at as little as 1500rpm.
This backfiring is nice when you want to impress your 7 year old 
cousin, but that's about the only "pro" I can think of: it is not 
supposed to be this way...

If it had been this way ever since the cat was removed I would
suspect that, but all went well for at least 6 weekends of driving 
(adding up to about 500 miles). 
I also suspect my fairly poor gas-mileage to be a 
result of this: I get 6km to a liter (=1:6) (about 14mpg I think), 
while I hear of several other Dutch owners who get 10 km per liter 
(23mpg???) which is close to DOUBLE the mileage!!!
If this can't be helped so be it: it isn't my daily driver, but it 
would be nice to take a longer trip without having to refuel so often 
(except maybe for the looks I'd be missing, which you usually get
when pulling up at a gas station)...

My car is going to the shop next thursday for its' annual inspection 
and since it's going to be there anyway I'd like them to look at this 
too. This shop has had some experience with the PRV-6 in other 
configurations, including the Renault Alpine A-310, but untill I came 
along they had never worked on a DeLorean. My father happens to know 
the owner of the place which is reassuring AND they are a member of 
"BOVAG" which means they are respectable and do good work.
To make a long story short: I trust them with my car.

To make it a little easier on them I'd like to know what would be the 
first thing to look at when suffering from the described symptoms. My 
guess would be either the engine is running too rich, or the ignition 
is off. Any other suggestions are more that welcome: there's an event 
in Germany next weekend I would like to attend, but if my car's still 
in the shop then that won't really work  ;-)

Thanks in advance from The Netherlands,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------





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