From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 603
Date: Saturday, June 23, 2001 4:51 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. JUNE EVENT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Finicky Windows
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: water drops
From: Travis Graham <thgraham_at_dml_home.com>

4. How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

5. RE: door dings caused by window regulator
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

6. Re: Torsionbars/struts/gullwing doors
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

7. Re: water drops
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

8. Re: Locked in / Bob Zilla
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

9. RE: Big Foot
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner_at_dml_pfizer.com>

10. Re: Locked in / Bob Zilla
From: sacha_at_dml_prins.net

11. Re: Finicky Windows
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: JUNE EVENT
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>

13. Re: Throttle cable sticking
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

14. trapped inside - me too
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

15. Re: Finicky Windows
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. "worlds fastest Delorean"
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

18. Re: water drops
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

19. Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

20. Key blanks
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

21. A/C compresser
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

23. Re: Anybody from Connecticut planning to attend the open-house?
From: DRConsult_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: A/C compresser
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:40:56 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: JUNE EVENT

I WOULDN'T MIND DOING CEVELAND AGAIN 
HOW MANY PEOPLE WERE GOING TO GO TO LIMA SO FAR I HAVE ZERO RESPONSES

KEN



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:00:34 EDT
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Finicky Windows

To whomever can help,

I have an '83 D.  I have had it for 2 months.  The person I bought it from 
had it in storage for 5 years.  He did start it up twice a year and i haven't 
had any troubles except with the windows.  Whenever I want to raise or lower 
the windows, I have to keep pushing on/off/on/off until it decides to go.  
Both windows do exactly the same.  Are the switches bad?  Are the motors bad? 
Is it a bad ground?  Any ideas?  Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Frank
DOA  5823
VIN  16509


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:12:44 -0500
From: Travis Graham <thgraham_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: Re: water drops

Hello Ryan,

The solution is (most likely) easy enough: visit your local fuel station and
use their industrial strength vacuum.  Locate the run off tube (which is
under the front right tire and probably shoved up behind the accumulator)
and suck out the water and gunk that clogs it up with the vacuum.  You may
want to try a shot or two of air from the compressor while it's handy.  This
will clear out the tube and you'll be set.

Mind the fact that you may have to perform this ritual again next summer ;)

Enjoy the A/C!
Travis Graham


> Hey list,
> I just charged up my A/C and boy does it work great. Icy cold! Well I
> noticed today when I was driving around that there was some water on my
> floor mat on  the passenger side of the car. I crawled under the dash and
> found that the water was coming from the casing that houses the fan. Would
> the water just be coming from the condenser? Has anyone else had this
> problem? Thanks!




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 03:16:14 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

Ok everyone, since not everyone is clear on the function of the power 
locks, here is a detailed explanation.

The locks in the DeLorean are not the typical power lock system.  It 
is what is known as a Central Locking System.  What this means is that 
when one door is locked/unlocked, the other door(s) do the same.  
There are no extrernal button switches, as they are built into the 
lock mechanics inside the door.

To my knoledge, this was a fairly popular fad in the '80s, but there 
were reports of people being carjacked/robbed when someone would hide 
on the other side of the car, and attack the driver when he/she 
unlocked thier own door.

The lock controller on the DeLorean uses a negative pulse to trigger 
the locks.  Manually locking/unlocking one door from either the inside 
or out, will throw the internal switch, giving ground to the common 
sense wire that goes to the controller and other door switch. (Also in 
the case of the "Lock Doors" light the ground here will be powered 
when unlocked, and when the inertia switch is tripped the ground to 
the fuel pump is simply redirected to the unlock sence wire.)

If your doors will power lock in one direction, but not the other, it 
may be an indication of a previous failure by the stock module, 
causeing the solenoid coils for that direction to burn out.  However, 
this may not always be the case.  When I bought my car, both doors 
would lock, but only the manual one would unlock.  After unplugging 
the connector (the 8-wire harness) and plugging it back in, everything 
worked normal.

And it is also VERY easy to tell if you have a Lockzilla or original 
module.  Open up your relay compartment behind the passenger seat, and 
look at the black box right in the middle, on top of everything else. 
 If it says "Lockzilla" on it, there you go.  If it is unlabled, it is 
original.  While your in there, you should also permenently remove 
your fuse box cover and check the condition/connection of all fuses.

This winter, I removed my lock module and opened it up.  The part that 
commonly fails are the two internal PC-board relays that can stick 
closed from the power surge created by the solenoids.  I was able to 
find a new, identical PC-board relays.  Only these were rated a little 
more heavy duty than the originals (40A, I'm pretty sure the originals 
were 30A).  I removed the old relays and soldered the new ones in.  I 
have been using my stock module in this manner all of this year, 
without a single problem yet.  This modification is NOT for most 
people though, and I'm not going to be using it like this forever.  I 
would strongly recommend the Lockzilla to everyone, and I will 
eventually get one myself.  The primary reason I did this was because 
I wanted semi-safer working power locks, on a tight buget. (Total cost 
was about $15.)  I do plan on putting indicator lights inside the car 
that will light up whenever a solenoid is getting power, so I can 
actively monitor if one of the new relays I put in has failed.

I personally am sceptical of the locks "locking on thier own", but I 
do have a theory that in a moderate/severe shock to the car, the 
internal switch inside the door could bounce just enough to trigger 
the lock module.

If anyone has any other questions about the locking system or about my 
modification, please email me directly at ultra(at)isd.net.  Take 
care.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:53:49 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: door dings caused by window regulator

You can check out the $5.00 fix at
http://stainlesssteel.freeyellow.com/index.html

Thanks for asking,
Robert Starling
Vin#5252

-----Original Message-----
From: John L. Rahn [mailto:john_rahn_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:23 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] door dings caused by window regulator


Robert,

What is the $5.00 fix?

Thanks,

JR

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I have not seen any dents like you are describing on any of the
Deloreans
> that I have looked at. I am still using the original regulators
that have
> been updated with my $5.00 fix. (2 years and still going strong) I
have been
> inside the doors of a few Deloreans and I have never come across
one that
> showed any signs that the regulator was making contacted with the
door. And
> just another thought, the new regulators mount the same as the
originals. I
> am really at a loss how you are getting that dent in that location.
The
> glass window, keeps the regulator secure at the top and the motor
is bolted
> to the bottom of the door. There is only the cable housing and the
> cable,(that runs inside the housing)that is located at the center
of the
> door.
>
> Robert Starling
> Vin#05252



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 03:56:58 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Torsionbars/struts/gullwing doors

This past spring I was in charge of "adjusting" the doors at our local 
Door Adjusting Social in New Jersey. Many of the new people attending 
thought it also meant adjusting the anchor pins on the doors and the 
locks. Most wanted their doors to open fast and "bounce". I tried to 
accomodate all requests but for the most part I was able to convince 
the owners that as long as the doors will stay all of the way up (even 
if you need to finish opening the doors with your hand) that it was 
the most preferable adjustment. (at about 70 dergees F.) I was very 
concerned that if I wound up the torsion bar too much and soon after 
someone replaced the strut then the doors would open TOO hard. Out of 
about 26 cars about 10 needed something, I adjusted about 7 cars and 3 
needed struts. about half of all cars needed either a lock adjustment 
or anchor pin adjustment or both with many either not closing good or 
having trouble with the locking mechanism. (If the doors are not 
properly adjusted ie; the anchor pins, 1 side is correctly latched and 
the other isn't). As important as the struts and torsion bars are I 
think it is more important to have the locks properly working so the 
doors won't jam trapping the occupants. (This has NOTHING to do with 
the locking module although a Lockzilla prevents you from locking the 
doors if 1 is not closed properly) Door guides cannot compensate for 
out of alighnment anchor pins. All they can do is properly alighn the 
doors so they will close if the car is not on a flat level surface and 
the car is "twisted". The replacement struts have speed control but 
they do not seem to have temerature compensation so the colder it gets 
the less force they have. I do not like to see the doors bounce 
because if you watch the "T" section everything flexes due to the 
leverage and the mass of the doors (they are heavy and if they move 
fast it takes alot to stop them) Just my opinion but if you adjust the 
torsion bars too much to compensate for weak struts when you 
eventually replace the struts, unless you loosen the torsion bars, you 
could over stress the door system. I would appreciate other comments 
but I think the ultimate solution would be a temperature compensating 
strut and ajusting the torsion bars to a specific load.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> dmcrearHmm... Are my doors very strange or is this the way they all 
work on your DeLorean?
> 
> This summer I had a much needed torsion bar adjustment. The struts 
are also new. The adjustment was done by professionals. 
> 
> What happens is this: In warm weather (above 20 degrees Celcius) the 
doors open with no problems and stay up. Wow! I have never experienced 
that before. MAGIC! So far so good....
> 
> Now, if the temperature is below that, the doors don't open fully, 
yet you can help with your hand and the doors will stay up! (Earlier 
on - before the torsion bar adjustment - they drooped and wouldn't 
stay up)
> 
> Living in Norway, we have a mild climate yet the temperature is 
often below 20 degrees because of the cold winds and weather we have 
where I live. I drive my DeLorean only in the spring-summer-and early 
autumn. This means that on an average my doors won't open up fully 75% 
of the time, the last 25% being the hot summer we have here and where 





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 04:09:58 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: water drops

This could be caused by the drain tube being plugged up so the water 
isn't draining. The case fills up and overflows inside. Remove the 
spare tire and the cover under it and check the drain tube. A quick 
test would be do you see a puddle of water under the car near the 
front right wheel when you run the A/C and then park? If the water 
isn't comming out of the drain it is going to go somewhere! Especially 
when you make turns! That cold water hittting your foot during 
cornering is a surprise!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hey list,
> I just charged up my A/C and boy does it work great. Icy cold! Well 
I 
> noticed today when I was driving around that there was some water on 
my 
> floor mat on  the passenger side of the car. I crawled under the 
dash and 
> found that the water was coming from the casing that houses the fan. 
Would 
> the water just be coming from the condenser? Has anyone else had 
this 
> problem? Thanks!
> 
>                          Ryan- vin.#16301
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 00:23:56 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Locked in / Bob Zilla

Bob Zilla,
Regarding the LockZilla product. Aside from the addition of a keyless
remote, what exactly makes the LockZilla device superior to the original?
Specifically, what exactly was the actual deficiency in the circuit? Did you
improve the reliability of the device by replacing the relays with
replacements of superior specification? Has the circuit been redesigned or
is it simply a matter of component improvement?  Have the switching
transistors proved unreliable? Is there some inherent fault in the circuit
design? What circuit component (s) actually fails? The circuit looks pretty
straight-forward to me. Other than a sticking carbonized under-rated relay
contact or the possibility of over-driving the switching transistors and
subsequent failure of one of the diodes due to an over-current condition,
what have you found to be the primary reason for the failure curve? I'm
sorry to ask so many questions, but with a problem as potentially dangerous
as this one, I would like to know as much as I can.
Thanks,
Rustproof




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 06:51:26 -0400
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner_at_dml_pfizer.com>
Subject: RE: Big Foot

I wear small shoes like tennis shoes or loafers.  (size 13, too).  I removed
the dead pedal to help for foot room, too.  It would seem that the brake
pedal could be a little smaller.  (The pad on the accelerator removed helps
a little, too.)  



Bill Buckner

Instrumentation Supervisor
Electrical and Instrument Dept.
Pfizer, Inc.
Global Manufacturing
Holland, MI Facility
   %   Phone:  616-392-2375  x-2449
 *   Fax:      616-392-8267
     *  Email:    william.buckner_at_dml_pfizer.com




To: DeLorean
Subject: [DML] Big Foot


My size 13 foot on my automatic rests on the accelerator pedal and also on
the brake pedal simultaneously, unless I watch it carefully.    Seems like
someone came up with a solution for this for people with big feet.  Has
anyone made any mod?   Like maybe a different brake pedal that is narrower
in width and if so how much work is it to change it, or alter it?

Murray    Fisher
Vin:          05962
Lic:      DMC-XII
Walla Walla WA




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 11:09:07 -0000
From: sacha_at_dml_prins.net
Subject: Re: Locked in / Bob Zilla

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> How do you know if you HAVE an original door lock controller then?

If it is a black box without any text on it (like e.g. LockZilla).

> The only thing automatic about my doors is that if both doors are
> locked, then turning the key unlocks both doors.  But I cannot
> lock both doors from one side.  What does this mean that I have?

2 rotten solenoids. I have the exact opposite behaviour of your doors.
I'm replacing the solenoids (one is replaced and works like a charm)

> If I unplug something a door lock controller, will I be able to
> lock and unlock my doors normally?

Yes, I did that exactly and the 'central door locking' feature is gone
when the module is unplugged. Doors then lock/unlock individually.

Sacha






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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 08:20:46 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Finicky Windows

Frank and Group, Most of the time the switch contacts get corroded over and 
have to be cleaned or resurfaced. I take them apart, clean, lubricate and 
resurface the contacts to like new. Then the window problem goes away. Info 
is on the web site.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/talk-view.htm



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 08:53:35 -0700
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>
Subject: Re: JUNE EVENT

Ken,
    I'll be there, I'll be there!  Just tell me when and where again!
        -Josh
        VIN 5102
        VIN 15964



kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> I WOULDN'T MIND DOING CEVELAND AGAIN
> HOW MANY PEOPLE WERE GOING TO GO TO LIMA SO FAR I HAVE ZERO RESPONSES
>
> KEN




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 10:45:45 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Throttle cable sticking

I am not sure this will work but it does on motorcycle cables. There is a 
clamp that goes over one open end of the cable and sheath. You then connect a 
spray can of lubricant to the clamp and spray. The lubricant goes down the 
sheath and lubricates the cable.. used especially on motocross/dirt bikes. 
Sorry I don't know the brand.
Ralph VIN 1606


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 10:33:26 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: trapped inside - me too

You must be joking! Assume there are 2 people in the car with parcels on the rear shelf area. Some have suggested just simply turning around, opening the relay / fuse section by removing the wooden board, and pulling out the relay? My body won't allow me to do that! Apparently, I'm not hinged in the same places as others. My wife and I did get stuck inside the first DeLorean we owned, at a service centre. Wearing a suit and tie, and she in a fancy dress, I found it impossible to do that ---- maybe I could have when I was 25 years younger.  Since then, about 10 years, I have never locked the doors, unless I'm out of the car and use a key!
Marvin Stein
#4239 

tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
web: printeddrinkware.com
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 09:23:44 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Finicky Windows

In most cases intermittent window operation as you described is related to the window switches. Pull the switch cover off and spray the contacts with electrical contact spray, WD-40 will also work but not as good. If this does not correct the problem you should replace the switch.

DMC Joe

www.dmc.tv 

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 11:00 PM
  Subject: [DML] Finicky Windows


  To whomever can help,

  I have an '83 D.  I have had it for 2 months.  The person I bought it from 
  had it in storage for 5 years.  He did start it up twice a year and i haven't 
  had any troubles except with the windows.  Whenever I want to raise or lower 
  the windows, I have to keep pushing on/off/on/off until it decides to go.  
  Both windows do exactly the same.  Are the switches bad?  Are the motors bad? 
  Is it a bad ground?  Any ideas?  Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

  Frank
  DOA  5823
  VIN  16509





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 09:52:31 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

Jim,

You said:

"I personally am skeptical of the locks "locking on their own"............."

I'm familiar with this problem first hand. Shortly after I bought my DeLorean, while it was parked in my garage, my wife arrived home after some shopping and said: "something is clicking inside your DeLorean". After a short inspection I could not hear the clicking. For the next several days, while driving the car, I could hear the clicking and noticed that the door lock buttons would move whenever I heard the click. Several days later I noticed that my DeLorean would not start due to a completely dead battery.  After recharging the battery and reinstalling it in the car the door lock module started clicking and activating the door lock solenoids. I than realized that the lock module was activating without any intentional activation.

Over the years I have come across many similar situations, in some cases one of the solenoids would be frozen (burnt) in the locked position. This is the reason that we always disconnect the factory lock module, if it isn't already, when a DeLorean arrives at our facility for service. 

DMC Joe 
www.dmc.tv 

Additional reading:
"Unlock Your Door Mysteries" http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/doorlock.html


"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>


  .

  I personally am sceptical of the locks "locking on thier own", but I 
  do have a theory that in a moderate/severe shock to the car, the 
  internal switch inside the door could bounce just enough to trigger 
  the lock module.


  Jim Reeve
  MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
  DMC-6960



  / 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 15:51:57 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: "worlds fastest Delorean"

Does anyone know of who owns the self proclaimed "Worlds Fastest 
Delorean" that has a Buick V6 with twin turbos created by Gale Banks 
back in the '80s?  There is an article about it on 
www.entermyworld.com

Is this car still around?  They said that it pumped out 500+ 
horsepower and could get almost 700HP with the proper tuning.  




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 12:22:57 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: water drops


    To check for a block, you can take the blower motor out and reach inside 
the fan opening to check for any debris. Sometimes mice will build a home in 
this area. If you find something use a shop vacuum to remove all of the 
debris. Afterward blow some compressed air inside and repeat the vacuum 
process.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack
DOA 4743



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 12:31:00 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.



    I have the lock solenoids and the central power unit, all from LockZilla. 
They are faithful and reliable.
    There are significant improvements to the LockZilla versus the original 
design. One improvement that immediately comes to mind is how the locks sound 
and how quickly they operate.

    As far as anyone unintentionally trapped inside the DeLorean, I'm sure 
that the people were inside pre production cars, and if they were actual 
production cars then they didn't have the LockZilla.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack 



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 16:40:02 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Key blanks

Does anyone know what key blank I need to have some extra keys made.I 
only have one now. Also does anyone know what I can use for a 
replacement rubber boot for the ball joints.
John 
jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 19:19:53
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: A/C compresser

Hey list,
I was looking at pics of Delorean engines and I noticed that the oil filler 
on the A/C compresser is on the top. Mine is on the side. My compresser is a 
sayno. I don't know if it's orignal or not. What was the OEM make of the A/C 
compresser? I also noticed that the lines going to and from the compresser 
are directly in the back of the compresser mine have a 90 degree elbow 
coming out of the compresser. maybe an adaptor from the orignal lines to the 
new compresser. I don't know.
any ideas? Thanks!
                Ryan
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 15:56:51 -0400
From: Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

Hi All,
 
On the 9th of June I finally got to do what I've been waiting for for months
-- pick up my body panels!
 
Dave Bauerle was able to do a fantastic job on the RR quarter -- you'd never
believe the bottom lip of the wheel wheel had been smashed as badly as it
was.  It looks like a brand new piece.
 
Unfortunately, the doors had some areas he was not able to repair.  Both
doors have large nicks on the top, right by the seal.  If you look at the
doors, you can see how difficult that area is to get to -- the area is boxed
by the door frame, and it's too small of an area to get a spoon up into.
 
I was planning on scrapping the doors, but someone recommended having the
gouges welded in with stainless, then ground down.  Anyone ever attempted
something like this before?  A stainless welder is going to be stopping by
my house next week to take a look and give his recommendations.
 
So, while I waited, I started to slowly sand the many deep scratches off of
my hood.  I'm starting to get the dreaded "X"... any tips here would be
appreciated.
 
Other than that, I've been doing smallish jobs.  Put in FanZilla, ordered a
few pieces, prep the rear deck & engine cover for painting...
 
Speaking of which, since everyone uses semi-flat black and then Armor-All or
the like to shine the louvers, I am thinking of trying a semi-gloss or gloss
black SATIN finish paint.  It should give the same effect without having to
Armor-All it all the time.  Anyone else ever tried this?
 
So... things have started moving again.  I even have my insurance agent
trying to get me listed.  Of course, the underwriter is having a fit for all
the usual reasons... but IU'm sure we'll squeak it by.  Heck, if he was
going to insure me for an '87 Lotus Esprit Turbo for $400 a year, then he
should be able to do better with a D, right?  =)
 
-Dave
http://www.ProjectVixen.com <http://www.ProjectVixen.com> 
VIN #05927
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 21:16:14 -0000
From: DRConsult_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Anybody from Connecticut planning to attend the open-house?

I already registered earlier in June for the open house and reserved a
room at the Sofitel hotel as listed on the DMC Houston website.  I
booked a flight with my local AAA office - unfortunately the only
flight I could get was one arriving VERY late on Friday, so I'm going
to miss Friday's stuff!

I didn't bother getting a rental car since there was a hotel shuttle
to/from the airport and a DMC Houston shuttle to/from the open-house.
 If you are interested in getting together and splitting a rental car,
let me know - I'm sure I could get a AAA discount on some car at the
airport or elsewhere.

Dave R.
Future D Owner
Albany, NY

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hi all, just looking to see who else on the list is from CT or
nearby
> who is planning on attending the open-house event in August. I am,
> and am trying to see what i need to do to make the trip a smooth
one.
> I've never gone to any dmc events before, actually this will be my
> first "vacation" ever! So anybody who can provide some good info
> regarding flight booking and vehicle rental in the Houston area, I
> would much appreciate some info. My only problem seems to be that
car
> rental agencies require a person to be 25. I'm only 24! Thanks for
> any help.
>
>
> -Jeff
>
> future DMC owner.
> VIN #????




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 17:03:47 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: A/C compresser

Sanyo makes compressors for many cars. The back cover is offered in several
configurations to match with a particular car builder's requirements. It appears the previous owner replaced a bad compressor with one from
another make of auto. They all work the same and unless you're concours
bound I wouldn't worry.

Bruce Benson


> Hey list,
> I was looking at pics of Delorean engines and I noticed that the oil
filler
> on the A/C compresser is on the top. Mine is on the side. My compresser is
a > sayno. I don't know if it's orignal or not. What was the OEM make of the
>A/C compresser? >

>Ryan





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