From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 604
Date: Saturday, June 23, 2001 4:37 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Key blanks

2. Re: A/C compresser

3. Re: Key blanks
From: Lee <>

4. Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

5. Re: "worlds fastest Delorean"

6. Is this a DMC?

7. Graceland fun facts

8. tempurature and malfunctioning tach
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>

9. Re: "worlds fastest Delorean"

10. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

11. Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

12. Re: Squeeling sound from clutch

13. Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

14. Re: Finicky Windows

15. New Delorean Owner
From: "Bastiaan Olij" <>

16. RE: Key blanks
From: "Buckner, William" <>

17. DeLoreans in Los Angeles
From: Grigor Maksudyan <>

18. What I don't understand about the Central Door Locking
From: Sacha Prins <>

19. Re: Key blanks

20. Clutch line

21. Brake squeal

22. A couple of things
From: "Derrick Viane" <>

23. Re:Different door guides (was:Trapped in a DeLorean?)

24. Hood
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>

25. RE: Found Window Stickers
From: "Jack Singer" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 00:41:07 -0000
Subject: Re: Key blanks

I had an extra key made at a Wal Mart store last year. The Key brand 
said "Axxess +" Key type was #51. The key type that it was copied 
from was an ilco, # X239 RV4. I know that others have had difficulty 
with getting keys made at store like it, but the new key from Wal 
Mart actullay turns much easier in my locks than my old one.

vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Does anyone know what key blank I need to have some extra keys 
> only have one now. Also does anyone know what I can use for a 
> replacement rubber boot for the ball joints.
> John 
> jrc2905_at_dml_a...


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 18:14:36 EDT
Subject: Re: A/C compresser

 A sanyo compressor is the right brand. SD-510,model# 8494.
  Yes the 'lower' tube does a couple of 90's to head 'forward.
                      Richard in San Diego


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 15:29:56 -0700
From: Lee <>
Subject: Re: Key blanks wrote:

> Does anyone know what key blank I need to have some extra keys made.I
> only have one now. Also does anyone know what I can use for a
> replacement rubber boot for the ball joints.
> John


You can get DMC logo key blanks from DMC Houston or try the manufacture
- at:  Lee <>



Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 00:17:05 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

Central locking is now standard on almost all european cars, though remote
central locking is also common. Sounds like a standard afer-market alarm with
remote door lock module will work fine on a DeLorean (fitted one to my
Citroen some time ago)


Jim Reeve wrote:

> To my knoledge, [central locking] was a fairly popular fad in the '80s,


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 19:15:28 EDT
Subject: Re: "worlds fastest Delorean"

Spring of 1988 Delorean World has a reprint of the Sports Car Illustrated 
article. It only says a Northern Calif. owner. But it is an awesome machine.  
I also would like to revisit it after 12 years.
Ralph VIN 1606

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 19:20:50 EDT
Subject: Is this a DMC?

Hi everyone,

I was looking for some parts on ebay and I saw this picture. Is that a 
DeLorean on the left behind the Maserati?


Michael Pack
DOA 4743


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:04:52 EDT
Subject: Graceland fun facts

I just received the hotel list and true to form as happened in the Cleveland 
Show approximately half of those registered are new to the show
to be exact 42% are1st time.

Thank you

<A HREF=""></A>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:09:10 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>
Subject: tempurature and malfunctioning tach

I am going to look at an 82 dmc with 27k on it which is a strait, clean, turnkey car, however the tach is said to work half the time and the water temp stays at 200 degrees. What do you all think it would take to fix the tach(money and time wise too) and what do you think about the temp, is this a scary thing on a stock D or is this not that bad and would be fine with a lower temp fan switch and thermostat(perhaps the thermostat is stuck half open? Other than that I have to beleive the car is exactly as it should be. 
Thanks, Casey at

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 00:33:40 -0000
Subject: Re: "worlds fastest Delorean"

The car was involved in a front end collision some time ago. Efforts 
were made to rebuild it, but the car has been placed onto the back 
burner for some time.

If you want to see the car you are not far off. Go to the d services 
part of Second picture down upperleft hand corner 
you can see whats left of the car.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., delorean502_at_dml_e... wrote:
> Does anyone know of who owns the self proclaimed "Worlds Fastest 
> Delorean" that has a Buick V6 with twin turbos created by Gale 
> back in the '80s?  There is an article about it on 
> Is this car still around?  They said that it pumped out 500+ 
> horsepower and could get almost 700HP with the proper tuning.


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 02:36:02 -0000
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

If you do find a welder who has experience with stainless he should 
also be competant in the use of high frequency TIG. This is the only 
way to do this work without exessive heat build-up and distortion. 
This repair can be done. I had a shop where we built S/S elevater 
doors, frames, and cabs. Not only do you have to weld parts together 
but there are the inevitable repairs from shop mistakes, dings, and 
field screw-ups. I had a welder that could weld a 2x4 to a brick or at 
least he claimed! My point is that a GOOD welder can do minor miracles 
so try to find a shop that works on kitchen equipment or hollow metal 
in your area and has a Tig welder that doesn't look like Noah might 
have used it! You might try a local welding supply, they usually know 
which shops are doing good work.  As for the X pattern get a piece of 
2x6 about 6" long, sand it smooth and flat and use it on the blending 
pad and don't use much pressure. On the rear sunshade I use Black 
Again and I am happy with the results as it doesn't dry off as fast as 
Armor-All. I think you are very persistant and patient to attempt this 
project and not get frustrated and stop.Keep going! and good luck!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_k...> wrote:
> Hi All,
> On the 9th of June I finally got to do what I've been waiting for 
for months
> -- pick up my body panels!
> Dave Bauerle was able to do a fantastic job on the RR quarter -- 
you'd never
> believe the bottom lip of the wheel wheel had been smashed as badly 
as it
> was.  It looks like a brand new piece.
> Unfortunately, the doors had some areas he was not able to repair.  
> doors have large nicks on the top, right by the seal.  If you look 
at the
> doors, you can see how difficult that area is to get to -- the area 
is boxed
> by the door frame, and it's too small of an area to get a spoon up 
> I was planning on scrapping the doors, but someone recommended 
having the
> gouges welded in with stainless, then ground down.  Anyone ever 
> something like this before?  A stainless welder is going to be 
stopping by
> my house next week to take a look and give his recommendations.
> So, while I waited, I started to slowly sand the many deep scratches 
off of
> my hood.  I'm starting to get the dreaded "X"... any tips here would 
> appreciated.
> Other than that, I've been doing smallish jobs.  Put in FanZilla, 
ordered a
> few pieces, prep the rear deck & engine cover for painting...
> Speaking of which, since everyone uses semi-flat black and then 
Armor-All or
> the like to shine the louvers, I am thinking of trying a semi-gloss 
or gloss
> black SATIN finish paint.  It should give the same effect without 
having to
> Armor-All it all the time.  Anyone else ever tried this?
> So... things have started moving again.  I even have my insurance 
> trying to get me listed.  Of course, the underwriter is having a fit 
for all
> the usual reasons... but IU'm sure we'll squeak it by.  Heck, if he 
> going to insure me for an '87 Lotus Esprit Turbo for $400 a year, 
then he
> should be able to do better with a D, right?  =)
> -Dave
> <> 
> VIN #05927
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 02:43:48 -0000
Subject: Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

One of the easiest ways to get "trapped" is to slam a badly adjusted 
door closed. It isn't like you don't notice it because you probably 
have done it many times but sooner or later it will jam. This has 
NOTHING to due with Lockzilla. It cannot correct a misadjusted door or 
lock. If you buy a Lockzilla to fix this problem you will be very 
disappointed. Lockzilla does prevent you from locking the doors if a 
door isn't closed all the way but it is not meant to correct this.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
>     I have the lock solenoids and the central power unit, all from 
> They are faithful and reliable.
>     There are significant improvements to the LockZilla versus the 
> design. One improvement that immediately comes to mind is how the 
locks sound 
> and how quickly they operate.
>     As far as anyone unintentionally trapped inside the DeLorean, 
I'm sure 
> that the people were inside pre production cars, and if they were 
> production cars then they didn't have the LockZilla.
> Sincerely,
> Michael Pack


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 03:41:41 -0000
Subject: Re: Squeeling sound from clutch

Stian, Naturally what Joe siad is correct about the throw out bearing 
noise, Since I'm putting all new parts in my 11004 car I thought some 
one might like to see what were talking about, clutch pressure plate 
and throw out bearing. It's at the bottom of the engine page on my 
site I have posted before and after it's changed will post after. I 
will be adding a new catagory soon for Drive Train parts.  Sorry for 
the in balance of the photo's, but I'm not the greatest web man.
John hervey

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> dmcrearHi there,
> Quite recently Ive noticed that the clutch is squeeling when the 
clutch pedal is pressed. Not a high pitched sound, more like a low 
pitch sound but still annoying. Almost like "something somewhere is 
rubbing something"
> Last year the clutch fluid was changed with correct spec. I also 
upgraded to the stainless braided clutch line. I have no troubles 
shifting gears, yet the squeeling sound tells me something isnt quite 
> What parts do I need? And what causes the #"%! sound??
> Best wishes :)
> Stian Birkeland
> Flekkefjord, Norway
> VIN # 06759
> Web:
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 04:15:53 -0000
Subject: Re: How the DeLorean's Power Locks Work.

Jim and group. I to have taken the door lock module out and replaced 
the relay's. One step futher I'm going to do is limit the 
current/time the relay's contacts can operate. In other words, like a 
current limiter/sensor on each leg of the relay to the solenoids. Not 
one overated CB for both.  If the current is drawn to long or to much 
due to a faulty or tired soleniod, instead of the circuit destroying 
it's self and blowing diodes and burning the contacts up. It will 
mearly cut off or blow a fuse or trip lighter current circuit 
breaker. Most people like to up grade the main circuit breaker to 
allow more current and not to be bothered with a nuisance of 
replacing the circuit breaker. This is one reason they have problems. 
We give them to much leeway. I will do just the opposite. By limiting 
the time/current, I will give the solonoids just enough time to trip 
but no more. If the are slow, it will trip a circuit to cut off the 
voltage/current before it hurts anything futher. Then if the door 
doesn't open, it's time to look at, rebuild or replace the door 
solenoid. I also have a Fix for them in the works for an ease of 
operation. Hopes this helps. 
John Hervey

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Ok everyone, since not everyone is clear on the function of the 
power locks, here is a detailed explanation.