From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 606
Date: Monday, June 25, 2001 4:51 AM

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There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brake squeal
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Vacuum related squeal
From: L Sandel <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>

3. AC recharge
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Speedometer cable lube type
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

5. Re: A couple of things
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: New Delorean Owner
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

7. Re: Clutch line
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com

8. FULLY Converting to R-134a
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: FULLY Converting to R-134a
From: "Vicky Miller" <delo1_at_dml_mindspring.com>

10. Re: Clutch line
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

11. Re: Brake squeal
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

12. Update on my Warmup regulator
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

13. Radio replacement
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

14. Otterstat question
From: Sacha Prins <sacha_at_dml_prins.net>

15. Re: Brake squeal
From: hrlyrngr1_at_dml_aol.com

16. The $5 window fix
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 22:15:46 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Brake squeal

Assuming that we are working with all good parts try using an #80 grit 
sander attachment on an electric drill and then put a circular pattern 
on the front rotors on both sides and then roughen up the pads with 
#80 paper and use the brakes lightly for about 500 miles until the 
pads and rotors wear in. If this doesnt work you might have the wrong 
pads. If they are too hard they will be noisy. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Do anyone have any suggestion on how to get rid of brakes squeal 
from 
> the front brakes I have tried all the products for eliminating brake 
> squeal but I think it is going to take more than a quick fix.




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 18:28:34 -0400
From: L Sandel <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Vacuum related squeal

Greetings list,

I have developed a rather annoying vacuum related squealing/whistling
sound...  It is difficult to pinpoint, but seems to be coming from in back
of the engine.  I checked out as many of the vacuum connections as humanly
possible, but haven't been able to track down the culprit.  It seems to only
happen after the engine is warmed up.

So, has this happened to anybody before?

It is REALLY embarrassingly loud.  If it were a bit more 'woooosh' and a bit
less 'fweeee', it could at least pass for a blow-off valve until I could fix
it... "Is that a turbo in there?" "Um... sure... yeah... ya hear that?"
Fwooosh....

Thanks for any help,
Luke/#10270





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 18:34:12 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: AC recharge

Hey all,

today i got my AC recharged - i only needed 3/4 lb of freon, but boy did it 
make a difference!! the AC was never very good since i bought the car, but 
the ride home from the shop was MARVELOUS!!! the temp here in fargo ND is 
around 85 and humid, and i really love having nice cold air conditioning!  
i'm quite impressed with how cold it really is!  

if your AC seems a little warm - it's time to recharge! you'll be glad you 
did! BTW, the charge was about $80 for me...

later,
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 16:47:08 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: Speedometer cable lube type

Hello everybody,

What is the best type of lubricant for the angle drive/speedometer cable--grease or oil. What weight, brand etc.

Thanks much.

Joe Thome
VIN 06467


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 23:26:58 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: A couple of things

Derrick,  Since you know the accumulator is good then yes it could be the 
check valve in the fuel pump. But what pump do you have, the 984 with the 
built in or the 957 external.   You can't service the 984, check valve. But 
the 957 pump has a bolt on check valve can be replaced. I have both in stock 
and you can see them on the web site. I can also send you a check valve if 
you want to try it if you have the 957.
If the blower motor won't come on speed one or two, then the first thing to 
check is the voltage going thru #10 fuse coming from the auxiliary relay, 
going to the mode switch. If it's not making it to the fuse then, relay may 
be the problem, if it's  going to the fuse but not coming out, then fuse or 
fuse contacts may be the problem. Tighten the contacts anyway. Then if it's 
coming out of the fuse going to the mode switch. Then maby a bad mode switch. 
All along the path is finding, where did the voltage go to or stop. Then last 
but not least you have three resistance wires to go thru to power the blower, 
if any one of them is broke. No blower. Diagram is on the web site.
John hervey,
http://www.specialtauto.com/

 



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 05:05:27 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Re: New Delorean Owner

Thats interesting, my Delorean is VIN 4512 and it is an Oct. 81 
build.  I wonder why VIN 4597 was built in August.  
Welcome to the strange world of Deloreans!

Erik 
4512  Oct. 81

> Ohyeah, another nice one. The car manufacturing date stamped on the 
plate
> mounted in the door sais august 81, but the guy who made the frame 
of my
> passenger car door has signed it, checked OK september 1981, guess 
my door
> was mounted later <grin>.
> 
> Bastiaan Olij
> Owner of Vin #4597 build august 1981 since 21 June 2001




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 05:50:26 -0000
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch line

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> I just replaced the stock plastic clutch line with a stainless 
> braided line. This is the best upgrade I have done so far. The car 
> shifts with ease and the clutch works great. I am still amazed that 
> the OEM part was such a bad design.

Be prepared to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as the 
added presure seems to affect their operation.  I had to replace both 
after about a week.  They were leaking and while I did not se a pool 
on the floor, I did find fluid on the transmission and also up under 
the dash.

Scot
6452




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 08:12:03 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: FULLY Converting to R-134a

I know the argument back & forth over the different types of 
refrigerants...

What I want to know is if anyone in the group has replaced all of the 
needed parts themselves?  (These parts would include the compressor, 
acumulator/dryer, evaporator, and oriface tube.)

If anyone has replaced these parts, where did you get the parts, what 
are the part numbers, and how much were the parts.  

I have considered going to a local conversion shop, but I worry about 
them doing a "complete" job.  Last question:  has anyone had good or 
bad luck with a conversion shop?

Thanks in advance for the information...

If you wish, you may contact me directly at tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com

Ben Boatright
VIN 10115





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 14:36:41 -0400
From: "Vicky Miller" <delo1_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FULLY Converting to R-134a

hello list  the a/c system was designed to operate on r-12. why do a
conversion for a cheaper refrigerant that does a less effective job/you will
spend more money in the long run replacing parts that get destroyed trying
this conversion. spend the money for the r-12 and enjoy the ride. bob miller





----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 4:12 AM
Subject: [DML] FULLY Converting to R-134a


> I know the argument back & forth over the different types of
> refrigerants...
>
> What I want to know is if anyone in the group has replaced all of the
> needed parts themselves?  (These parts would include the compressor,
> acumulator/dryer, evaporator, and oriface tube.)
>
> If anyone has replaced these parts, where did you get the parts, what
> are the part numbers, and how much were the parts.
>
> I have considered going to a local conversion shop, but I worry about
> them doing a "complete" job.  Last question:  has anyone had good or
> bad luck with a conversion shop?
>
> Thanks in advance for the information...
>
> If you wish, you may contact me directly at tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com
>
> Ben Boatright
> VIN 10115
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:09:43 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Clutch line

Chances are the leak did not occur due to the added extra pressure. 
The leak usually occrs after a fluid change if it had not been 
changed in a while. Old fluid will be a lot thicker than new so it 
will not leak out of the system as much if any. Chances are the seals 
in the cylinders were on their way out. That's why it is recommended 
that when you replace the Slave cylinder you should replace/inspect 
the Master clutch cylinder...and vice versa if you had to replace the 
Master.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., SGSKBM_at_dml_a... wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> > I just replaced the stock plastic clutch line with a stainless 
> > braided line. This is the best upgrade I have done so far. The 
car 
> > shifts with ease and the clutch works great. I am still amazed 
that 
> > the OEM part was such a bad design.
> 
> Be prepared to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as the 
> added presure seems to affect their operation.  I had to replace 
both 
> after about a week.  They were leaking and while I did not se a 
pool 
> on the floor, I did find fluid on the transmission and also up 
under 
> the dash.
> 
> Scot
> 6452




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:22:35 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Brake squeal

The cause of the brake squeal will usually be from the pads moving 
(as you are applying the brakes) and the steel back of the pad 
rubbing against the steel piston (that's why the anti-squeal compound 
is applied). To get rid of the squeal I would take the pads off, sand 
the back of the pads (steel surface) down until all the old anti-
squeal compound and rust is off. Sand down very lightly the contact 
area of the piston (where the pads sit on). Spray down the caliper 
with Brake cleaner to get rid of all the break dust and any grease. 
It is very important that the back of the pads and the piston seat 
surface are CLEAN (at least as clean as possible) so that the 
compound will adhere better. They sell anti-squeal shims (I believe 
Rob Grady stocks them along with the other D vendors) and anti-rattle 
springs...I suggest installing those. If you can't get them then 
apply some high quality anti-squeal compound to the clean metal 
surface (back) of each pad and follow the directions on the compound 
(dry time, etc..).


Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Do anyone have any suggestion on how to get rid of brakes squeal 
from 
> the front brakes I have tried all the products for eliminating 
brake 
> squeal but I think it is going to take more than a quick fix.




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 22:13:24 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Update on my Warmup regulator

Well today I opened up my Warm-up Regulator to rebuild it. Luckily 
everything in the fuel area is functional. No leaks, clean, etc. The 
problem that I found? The wires going to the Bimetal strip were 
melted/broken..no connection. The Bi-metal strip is in excellent 
condition and measure 35ohms (what it's suppose the measure), All I 
have to do is remove all the damaged wires and replace them. What 
caused this? I don't know...it could have been the vent tube was 
blocked not allowing the heat generated to escape.

That's all for now,

Steve





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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 22:29:38 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Radio replacement


Moderator's note: This subject has been beat to death over the past couple of years. A search of the archives would produce enough reading for an evening.


I am going to install a FM radio-CDplayer in my DMC. I would 
appreciate anyones comments on this as to which is better and easier. 
A combination radio/CDplayer or a radio with a remote CD changer.
I do not have a lot of money spend.
Thanks.,
John




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 01:35:51 +0200
From: Sacha Prins <sacha_at_dml_prins.net>
Subject: Otterstat question

Hi,

A week or so ago I reported some overheating problems with my new 
DeLorean. My conclusion then was that the waterpump or thermostat was 
broke. 
Today as a test I drove the car with the heating on full blast because
someone told me that if the engine overheats, and the heater stil works
the waterpump is ok and the thermostat is probably broke.
To my syrprise I drove the car for aprox. 30 miles at aprox 65 mph and
the engine wouldn't heat up further than the 180F mark. Great news as
this means my waterpump works and (new conclusion) the otterstat is
broke. The fan cirquit works because short cirquiting the otterstat
wires triggers the fans.

My question; is there a non messy way to change the otterstat. Since it
is located at aprox. the lowest point in the cooling system I would
think a total drain of the system is needed to properly change it.

Other question; is there something against shorting the otterstat wires
until the otterstat is replaced (causing 100% fan operation)?

Last question; Is the otterstat (and it's grommet) a DeLorean specific
item or can I use a part from another car (Volvo?)?

As seen in M:15:01

Thanks,

Sacha

#16187
#17115




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:17:49 EDT
From: hrlyrngr1_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Brake squeal

I have the same problem. I replaced the pads, shims & turned the rotors & 
they still let out an ear piercing squeel?????


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:19:28 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: The $5 window fix

I've been intrigued by it for some time, my passenger window needs
help.  I wonder if it's as good as it looks, anyone for or against it?
I wonder if the clamps should be cemented or locked in place some way
rather than just squeezing them by hand?  I wonder why 5 rather than 4
or 6 or whatever (at the price)?  I wonder if someone has a better fix?
(I wonder a lot).




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