From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 607
Date: Monday, June 25, 2001 10:14 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: The $5 window fix
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

2. Re: Otterstat question
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

3. Re: Door guides
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

4. High idle speed
From: "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com>

5. Acceleration Problems,
From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com

6. Minnesota June Cruise
From: "Jim Reeve"<ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

7. Thanks Joe
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

8. Freon direct replacements
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn_at_dml_msn.com>

9. Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: FULLY Converting to R-134a
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>

11. Re: New Delorean Owner
From: Verbrugghe_at_dml_delorean.com

12. Re: Re: Door guides
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

13. Hot start
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk

14. Re: Vacuum related squeal
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

15. Overdue Report: Stainless Show and Shine in Canada
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

16. Bob Zilla on some interesting Lock posts
From: ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Hot start
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

18. Re: Vacuum related squeal
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: The $5 window fix
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com

20. tempurature and malfunctioning tach
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

21. Re: Re: Door guides
From: Corey Stup <corey_at_dml_stup.net>

22. plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: High idle speed
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

24. Tires
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. RE: The $5 window fix
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 02:02:55 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: The $5 window fix


Les stated:
I've been intrigued by it for some time, my passenger window needs help.  I
wonder if it's as good as it looks, anyone for or against it?
I wonder if the clamps should be cemented or locked in place some way
rather than just squeezing them by hand?  I wonder why 5 rather than 4
or 6 or whatever (at the price)?  I wonder if someone has a better fix?
(I wonder a lot).
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Being intrigued and wondering are good things. I will answer some of your
questions, but your conclusions are going to be all yours.

1) When the clamps are squeezed on by hand, you cannot crush the cable
guide, which would cause the system not to work.

2) No cement is required; the rubber on the clamps has sufficient gripping
abilities to hold them in place. As I have said before, I have been running
this fix for 2 1/2 years with no problems. (Just a note: My car is not a
garage queen. It has to live outside under a car cover when not in use. But
that is not much because I use the car as my main transportation, as some of
the list members know.)

3) Five clamps were decided on by me, because that was enough to thoroughly
reinforce the cable guide effectively.

I know that the $5.00 fix, most likely sounds too good for some to believe.
But it really does work. The last thing in the world that I would want to
do, is have someone to go through the trouble of gaining access to the inner
door, pulling out the regulator, repairing it, button everything back up,
and it not work. That would be just cruel and inhumane. Something that I am
not.

As always I welcome any comments or questions on this subject.

Robert Starling
Vin#05252







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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 14:11:41 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Otterstat question

Order the otterstadt switch AND the seal from your favorite Delorean 
parts vender. Also if you don't have it get the clip that holds the 
switch in. (If you don't want to spend the big bucks for the clip a 
straptie will do in a pinch.) To replace it just work fast with a pan 
underneath to catch the anti-freeze so you can put it back in. Bleed 
the system of air when done. DO NOT use silicone on the seal. I 
learned the hard way, it attacks the seal and causes it to fail. The 
otterstadt that PJ Grady sells is made to come on a little sooner and 
is supposed to work well with the Fanzilla which I highly recommend. 
Although you can short the connection to the otterstadt switch and run 
the fans full time you really should fix it right but if you are 
running the A/C then the fans are running full time already. Check the 
fan circuit breaker to see if it has been upgraded too. Go over all of 
the connections as this circuit is running at about 35 amps which is a 
lot especially if run continuously!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Sacha Prins <sacha_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> A week or so ago I reported some overheating problems with my new 
> DeLorean. My conclusion then was that the waterpump or thermostat 
was 
> broke. 
> Today as a test I drove the car with the heating on full blast 
because
> someone told me that if the engine overheats, and the heater stil 
works
> the waterpump is ok and the thermostat is probably broke.





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 16:09:01 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: Re: Door guides

Mike,

Interesting information about the importance of door guides.

Would a DeLorean with a VIN 06467 manufactured in November, 1981, likely
have those door guides? Can anyone explain how can I check to see if my car
has them? Does anyone have pictures of what they look like?

Many thanks for the help.

Joe Thome
VIN 06467


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Substelny" <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Trapped in a DeLorean?


> When I first got my DeLorean I was trapped inside many times, and it had
NOTHING
> to do with the lock mechanism.  It had to do with the fact that my doors
often
> closed out of alignment, making them jammed.  They appeared to be closed
> normally, but the latches were nowhere near the locking pins.  Instead,
the body
> of the door was mashed between the front and rear locking pins.
>
> When this happens it is very difficult to get out.  Disconnecting the
battery
> does no good.  The door handles and lock rockers have no effect.  Only
brute
> force (or possibly a fast drive on a bumpy road) will get the door open.
This
> may take many strong men.  At the same time, a door closed in this manner
might
> spring open at any moment, usually when you are cruising at 70 mph on the
> freeway.  This is a very frightening experience!
>
> The original design of the gullwing doors was such that all DeLorean doors
would
> jam shut in this manner.  It was very dangerous.
>
> This was an awful problem for DMC.  They solved it, though, when they
invented
> the door guides.  All later DeLorean had door guides installed at the
factory.
> Earlier DeLoreans (like mine) can be easily retrofitted with proper door
guides.
>
> Because I had so many frightening experiences with my guideless doors, I
look
> for door guides on the cars at DeLorean events.  I am happy to report that
today
> almost all DeLoreans have been fitted with proper door guides, but there
are
> still a few without them.
>
> I did not appreciate it at the time, but when my DeLorean had no door
guides it
> was a death trap.  Now that I have door guides my doors are safe and
reliable.
>
> If you are not sure whether your doors have guides or not, call your DMC
parts
> supplier or show up at any event with other DeLoreans and inspect their
door
> latch areas.
>
> - Mike Substelny
> VIN 01280, 8 years
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:18:19 +0200
From: "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com>
Subject: High idle speed

Hello,
when I start my car I have a high idle speed of about 2000RPM
for about 20 seconds until it comes down to about 800RPM.
Unfortunatly there is no difference, when when the engine is warm
or hot.
I measured the thermistor - about 1-2kOhm in warm condition - s
1o the thermistor is doing fine. All connections are ok. Any ideas ?

Thanks
Arne

VIN4949












Beta LAYOUT GmbH
Feldstrasse 2
65326 Aarbergen

Tel.: 0049 6120 907010
Fax.: 0049 6120 907014

http://www.pcb-pool.com
http://www.schablone.de
arne.hofmann_at_dml_pcb-pool.com



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:53:09 -0000
From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com
Subject: Acceleration Problems,

Hi all,

I have an auto 81 DeLorean and when I drive it after about 1/2 an 
hour of driving I can no longer press the accelerator to the floor 
without the engine dying. It does not stop completely but it is as if 
I have let go of the accelerator, as I lift my foot back up it 
suddenly picks up again? The tank is full of fuel and is there is no 
debris in the tank as I cleaned it earlier this year. This was the 
first time I had driven the car for over 30-45 mins as I have only 
just started driving it since my 21st birthday.

Any help would be appreciated,

James RG
England.





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 05:02:07 GMT
From: "Jim Reeve"<ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Minnesota June Cruise

This is one last reminder for anybody who may be interested.

On Saturday, June 30th, I am going to be taking my DeLorean for a scenic drive
in the southern MN area.  I will be leaving the Twin Cities at about 10am. 
If anyone would like to join me on the trip or meet up somewhere along the way,
please email me directly.  The exact route I'm taking can be seen on DML post
#17781 (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/17781).  I hope to see
some of you then.  ultra'at'isd.net

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 02:41:02 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Thanks Joe

Last week, I started out on a 3000 mile round trip in my Delorean. (Went to
Florida to play on the beaches.) When I was 144 miles in to the trip the
lower speedo cable broke. (New cable that I had just installed. Isn’t that
the way it always works?)

Since I was going by DMC Joe’s place on the way, I decided to drop in on him
to see if he just might have a cable in stock that I could buy, to get
things back in perfect order again. Joe did not have a cable in stock, but
he did have a used cable, that he let me borrow from another Delorean. (Joe
the cable did make it through the whole trip. I will take it off the car
tomorrow, and ship it back to you.)
I want to take the time here to thank Joe for the assistance in solving my
problem.

Other then the speedo cable the Delorean was flawless though out the trip. I
even got by McGuire’s Irish Pub, in Pensacola, to check out the Delorean
dealer sign that they have on the wall and too have a fantastic steak, with
some Irish beer.

To let the interested members on the list know my Delorean is for sale. I
have found another interest that I would like to pursue. The Delorean is
very well maintained, Oct 81 and has every update there is on it (except
Tankzilla, if it is not broke don’t fix it).  I also have all the records on
the car and $20,000 or so in receipts. This is a car that you can drive and
enjoy. Beautiful inside and out. The price on the car is $24,000. If you are
interested you can e-mail me at doctor280(at)triad.rr.com or call (336)
712-9301

Robert Starling
Vin#05252


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:45:16 -0000
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Freon direct replacements

Since freon is hard to find, does anyone have any experience with 
the "so-called" direct freon replacements?  




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 00:07:33 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: door dings caused by window regulator

The window regulator dents are easy to find if you know where to look.
Where you will find the dent(s) if you have them depends on whether they
were caused by the original or the heavy duty window regulator.  From the
door molding, measure 50 to 55cm from the front edge of the door and measure
down 1 to 6cm below the door molding.  The OEM regulator will cause dents at
55cm, and the heavy duty window regulator will cause dents at 50cm.

I noticed the dents in my doors soon after I first bought the car, and it
had very low mileage (8600miles).   Since I noticed the same style dent in
both my doors and on the doors of several other DeLoreans, I gave them the
benefit of a doubt that it was an artifact of assembly and nothing caused
expost-facto -- on the same order as the standard left front fender ding
that many DeLoreans have.  By the way, my car also has the standard left
finder ding.  I never noticed it until I read in the DML archives where
someone described it and said exactly where to look for it.  And I found it
on my car too!

Looking in my door, I can clearly see where the tube of the heavy duty
window regulator (which I repaired and re-installed myself) is pushing and
rubbing/wearing on the inside of the door skin causing this dent.  About 5cm
behind this area is a similar dent/scuff mark where the OEM window regulator
caused its damage before it was replaced by a previous owner.

If this problem is caused by improper installation of the window regulator,
then someone please tell me in what way the factory incorrectly installed
the original regulator.

If the problem with the replacment heavy duty window regulator is also a
matter of improper installation, then someone please tell me how so many
people seem to install these the wrong way.  The tube of the regulator rests
against the outer door skin and flexes against it as the window is moved up
& down.  If the tube is not supposed to touch the door skin, then someone
tell me what went wrong.  Do I need to lay the thing over my knee and
straighten out the tube some?  Did I position the brackets wrong?  Whats the
deal?

Walt    Tampa, FL






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:47:39 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FULLY Converting to R-134a

Every once in a while, this thread comes up.  Generally, there are several
replies about why you shouldn't change over.  I have basically two problems
with the responses.  (1)  many of the replies do not answer the question
being asked, but instead quote reasons why you should not convert.  (2)
many of the replies also state things like "I heard...", "you shouldn't do
this because the pressure...", etc - please base your answers on things you
know instead of things that you may not be aware of.

I have converted my system over to 134 and have not had any problems with
the pressure, no parts have broken, and although it may not cool as well as
the 12, I havn't had a complaint with the cooling yet ... 3 years running.
So, please do not answer the questions being asked unless you have an answer
to give.  This is not directed toward anyone, but has simply been brewing
for some time now.

Hopefully, to answer any issues about making the conversion (and not about
doing it myself as I had Pep Boys do mine), if done properly, you should not
have any problems.  Yes, if you allow the pressure to rocket, things will
break.  Yes, the cooling effects are not as effective as the R-12.  I cannot
say how much different, but I freeze my ass off when mine (R-134a) in the
mornings and evenings while when the sun is out at full burn (worst case
with no clouds, etc.), the 134 can just keep up with the dash heat radiation
meaning that it is only slightly comfortable, not "cold".  I cannot tell you
of the difference in the coolness as I have not been in a D with R-12
working, so I have not had an opportunity to compare.  I hope this helps
clear up some of the question dealing with the conversion from a first hand
witness.

Sean Howley
VIN#2345




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:11:45 -0000
From: Verbrugghe_at_dml_delorean.com
Subject: Re: New Delorean Owner

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: A listing of some 3300 cars with VIN numbers and build dates is available as part of the DMC chronology on the DMCNews web site. For information on build months for various VIN ranges, check out the chronology first.]



Hello

My car is VIN#04610 and it was build also in october 81.

Andy
VIN#04610


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., delorean502_at_dml_e... wrote:
> Thats interesting, my Delorean is VIN 4512 and it is an Oct. 81 
> build.  I wonder why VIN 4597 was built in August.  
> Welcome to the strange world of Deloreans!
> 
> Erik 
> 4512  Oct. 81
> 
> > Ohyeah, another nice one. The car manufacturing date stamped on 
the 
> plate
> > mounted in the door sais august 81, but the guy who made the 
frame 
> of my
> > passenger car door has signed it, checked OK september 1981, 
guess 
> my door
> > was mounted later <grin>.
> > 
> > Bastiaan Olij
> > Owner of Vin #4597 build august 1981 since 21 June 2001




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:54:59 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Door guides

Joe Thome wrote:

> Would a DeLorean with a VIN 06467 manufactured in November, 1981, likely
> have those door guides?

I wish I knew.  Call your DeLorean parts vendor.


> Can anyone explain how can I check to see if my car
> has them?

Not easily.  As far as I know no one has ever posted pictures of the door guides
to the web.  The door guides are solid pieces of plastic/metal that surround the
door latch mechanisms.  They guide the closing doors over the latch pins.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:46:00 -0000
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk
Subject: Hot start

Hi Guys,

Can someone please tell me the way to start the car if it won't 
because of hot start problem I can't remember.

Cheers Paul.Vin 741.

Haven't got round to putting the acumulator on yet.




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:48:03 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Vacuum related squeal

L Sandel wrote:

> Greetings list,
>
> I have developed a rather annoying vacuum related squealing/whistling
> sound...  It is difficult to pinpoint, but seems to be coming from in back
> of the engine.  I checked out as many of the vacuum connections as humanly
> possible, but haven't been able to track down the culprit.  It seems to only
> happen after the engine is warmed up.

Check the bolt that attaches the throttle shield.  Believe it or not, that bolt
hole actially leads inside the intake.  This bolt MUST be in place and tight!

If this is not the location, you can use a stethescope or syphon hose to locate
the source of the noise.  With the engine running, press one end of the syphon
hose to your ear and the opther to the engine block.  Then press it to another
part of the engine block.  If the noise gets louder, then you are getting closer
to the leak.

> So, has this happened to anybody before?

Yes, it happened to me the day before I drove to DOA Nashville Expo, right after
I bled my cooling system.  I had not tightened the aforementioned bolt
sufficiently.  My DeLorean would run, but that squeeling sound scared the
bejeezus out of me!

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:17:03 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Overdue Report: Stainless Show and Shine in Canada

A big thank you to Marv Stein for hosting the Stainless Show and Shine in London, Ontario the weekend before last.  It was a terrific time!

Four DeLoreans from the DeLorean Club of Ohio made the trip, all without incident despite 60 minutes plus of idling at customs.  Even that long wait was amusing, as the reason for the delay was a dramatic scene when some guy got hauled away in handcuffs.  Perhaps he was smuggling Canadians?

Marv must have pulled some serious strings in arranging the picture perfect weather.  While there was a bit of rain, it only fell while we were indoors.  Every time we stepped outside the clouds parted, as if by magic.  I do not understand Marv's mysterious power over the weather, but from now on he will be invited to every function the DCO ever has!

Highlights:

The hotel was amazing.  The Lamplighter Inn was somewhere between a Holidome and the Opryland Hotel (DOA Expo 96).  It has an indoor tropical wonderland, with watersides, a "beach", a "harbor", several waterfalls, and a river around its unique pool.  Yet prices were very reasonable thanks to a favorable exchange rate.

Saturday morning we got a quick sightseeing tour of London, including a photo op.  Then we displayed our DeLoreans on the banks of the Thames River in Springbank Park.  The park had tour boat rides, miniature train rides, a fairy tale theme children's garden, and some carnival rides.  It was great!  Our cars attracted nonstop attention, and one of us was interviewed by the local newspaper.

Dinner both nights was great, but I must say that I had a particularly good time at a little restaurant called Caribou Crossing.

I hope the Show and Shine was not Marv's attempt to bring a boost to London's economy.  Saturday night we went to the casino, where DCO members Cheryl Best-Wilke and Patti Substelny both won a lot more than their husbands lost.

After the casino, some of us partied pretty late Saturday night in that excellent hotel.

Marv gave us all special comemorative Show and Shine glasses, including a nice picture of a DeLorean.  Patti and I use ours every day.

To those who missed The Stainless Show and Shine: your loss.  It was everything you could hope for in a weekend of DeLorean fun.

Thanks again, Marv!

- Mike Substelny




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 13:20:22 EDT
From: ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Bob Zilla on some interesting Lock posts

THE FOLLOWING RESPONSES BY BOB ZILLA ARE IN CAPS SO YOU CAN IDENTIFY WHO'S IS 
SPEAKING. THERE A NUMBER OF OWNERS HERE.

IN MY PREVIOUS POST I DESCRIBED MY FREND'S ACCIDENT AND LOCK-IN EPISODE. 
WHAT I DIDN'T TELL YOU,   IS THAT I DIDN'T BELIEVE HIM.   AT FIRST.
I FOOLISHLY ASSUMED THAT HE WAS TOO DAZED FROM THE ACCIDENT TO KNOW WHAT HE 
WAS DOING. AND THAT'S WHY HE COULDN'T GET OUT OF THE CAR. I WAS VERY WRONG
THEN IT HAPPENED TO ME.
I GOT LOCKED IN
MY NEXT MOVE WAS TO UNPLUG THE ORIGINAL DOOR LOCK CONTROLLER



Message: 14 Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 10:33:26 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: trapped inside - me too

MARVIN WRITES:
You must be joking! 
Assume there are 2 people in the car with parcels on the rear shelf area. 
Some have suggested just simply turning around, opening the relay / fuse 
section by removing the wooden board, and pulling out the relay? My body 
won't allow me to do that! Apparently, I'm not hinged in the same places as 
others. My wife and I did get stuck inside the first DeLorean we owned, at a 
service centre. Wearing a suit and tie, and she in a fancy dress, I found it 
impossible to do that ---- maybe I could have when I was 25 years younger.  
Since then, about 10 years, I have never locked the doors, unless I'm out of 
the car and use a key!
Marvin Stein
#4239 
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com

NOT LOCKING THE DOORS MAY BE HELPFULL IN SOME BUT NOT ALL CASES. IT DEPENDS 
UPON THE CONDITION OF THE CONTROLLER. 
AS SEEN BY MANY OWNERS, THEY CAN TRIP THEMSELVES.

FURTHERMORE, LOCKING THE CAR ONLY WHEN YOU'RE OUT CAN RESULT IN A WONDERFULL 
SURPRIZE WHEN YOU RETURN TO THE CAR. A DEAD BATTERY. THERE HAVE ALSO BEEN 
PLENTY OF CASES WHERE YOU CAN BE LOCKED OUT OF THE CAR AS WELL AS BEING 
LOCKED IN. THIS IS TOTALLY DEPENDENT UPON THE EXACT CONDITION OF THE 
CONTROLLER AT THAT MOMENT. 
IT A LOT LIKE ROULETTE
DO YOU FEEL LUCKY TODAY ?


dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>  Mr.Zilla,
>  So, let me get this straight. If I unplug that Red wire to the door lock 
>  control module I will be able to lock and unlock the doors but not 
>  simultaneously?
>  Ryan- vin.#16301

CORRECT
FURTHER,  IF YOU HAVE REMOTE LOCK / UNLOCK IT WILL BE INACTIVE AS WELL





Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 00:23:56 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Locked in / Bob Zilla

Bob Zilla,
Regarding the LockZilla product. Aside from the addition of a keyless
remote, what exactly makes the LockZilla device superior to the original?
Specifically, what exactly was the actual deficiency in the circuit? Did you
improve the reliability of the device by replacing the relays with
replacements of superior specification? Has the circuit been redesigned or
is it simply a matter of component improvement?  Have the switching
transistors proved unreliable? Is there some inherent fault in the circuit
design? What circuit component (s) actually fails? The circuit looks pretty
straight-forward to me. Other than a sticking carbonized under-rated relay
contact or the possibility of over-driving the switching transistors and
subsequent failure of one of the diodes due to an over-current condition,
what have you found to be the primary reason for the failure curve? I'm
sorry to ask so many questions, but with a problem as potentially dangerous
as this one, I would like to know as much as I can.
Thanks,
Rustproof

LOCKZILLA IS A COMPLETELY NEW CONTROLLER MODULE IT IS NOT 
A MODIFIED OR REPAIRED ORIGINAL CONTROLLER.
THERE WERE SO MANY DESIGN FLAWS IN THE ORIGINAL CONTROLLER
THAT IT WAS DISCOVERED NEARLY 10 YEARS AGO, MODIFICATIONS & REPAIRS WERE NOT 
ALWAYS RELIABLE.



How do you know if you HAVE an original door lock controller then?

LOCKZILLA IS CLEARLY LABELED


The only thing automatic about my doors is that if both doors are
locked, then turning the key unlocks both doors.  But I cannot
lock both doors from one side.  What does this mean that I have?
If I unplug something a door lock controller, will I be able to
lock and unlock my doors normally?
Finally curious,

YOU HAVE A PROBLEM THAT REQUIRES SERVICE
LOCKZILLA PREVENTS LOCK-IN  & LOCKOUT. 
IT CAN NOT SOLVE PROBLEMS THAT REQUIRE SERVICE


BOB ZILLA



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:24:35 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: Hot start

On the driver's side of the engine compartment, swap the grey CPR 
plug with the blue cold start valve plug.  Do not plug the blue one 
into the CPR, just let it hang.  Start the car and let it run for a 
few seconds, then shut it off and put the plugs back the way they're 
supposed to be.  Or I have also just swapped them back with the 
engine still running, just be sure you do it quick so the cold start 
valve doesn't stay running.  Good Luck.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., paulheymeson_at_dml_t... wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Can someone please tell me the way to start the car if it won't 
> because of hot start problem I can't remember.
> 
> Cheers Paul.Vin 741.
> 
> Haven't got round to putting the acumulator on yet.




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:11:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum related squeal

Is the engine idle any rougher since the noise started?


DMC Joe

www.dmc.tv 

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: L Sandel 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 6:28 PM
  Subject: [DML] Vacuum related squeal


  Greetings list,

  I have developed a rather annoying vacuum related squealing/whistling
  sound...  It is difficult to pinpoint, but seems to be coming from in back
  of the engine.  I checked out as many of the vacuum connections as humanly
  possible, but haven't been able to track down the culprit.  It seems to only
  happen after the engine is warmed up.

  Thanks for any help,
  Luke/#10270







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:34:02 EDT
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The $5 window fix

I have the $5 fix on my car and it has been working perfectly for over 2 
years now.  The only way the $5 will work is if and only if the plastic tube 
is broken such that the cable drive comes out of it.  If your window 
regulator is faulty due to something other than the plastic tube, then it 
won't work.  It is that simple.  And 5 of the clamps is more than enough, but 
if you want to use more or less for that matter you can.  But it is proven to 
work well with 5.  If this fix is not good enough for you, then I suggest the 
alternative (the $500 fix) would be better.  But for $5, a couple hours, and 
some bloody fingers, what difference does it make?  Isn't it worth a try?  So 
here is my official vote for Rob Starling and his $5 window fix, it works 
great!  

Regards,
Darren Decker
VIN 5000
NC lic:  1981 DMC


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:48:50 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: tempurature and malfunctioning tach

I am going to look at an 82 dmc with 27k on it which is a strait, clean, turnkey car, however the tach is said to work half the time and the water temp stays at 200 degrees. What do you all think it would take to fix the tach(money and time wise too) and what do you think about the temp, is this a scary thing on a stock D or is this not that bad and would be fine with a lower temp fan switch and thermostat(perhaps the thermostat is stuck half open? Other than that I have to beleive the car is exactly as it should be. This is the second time I sent this mesage, becasue the first time I didn't get a response. I will greatly appreciate it if someone could give me some ideas.
Thanks, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:49:47 -0400
From: Corey Stup <corey_at_dml_stup.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Door guides

Also on this issue, I have 2 sets of door guides that I'm not sure which
ones go to which cars?

First set is numbered -1.  RF-1, RR-1, LF-1, LR-1.

The second set is numbered -2.  RF-2, etc.

Which set is for which cars?



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 21:17:36 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: plastic clutch line syndrome?

hey all,

today it was SUPER hot and sticky out here in Fargo, ND.  it was around 95 
degrees and very humid.  anyway, i went out to lunch at work around 2pm and 
my transmission suddenly started to grind gears now and then.  sometimes it 
was hard to get out of 1st or 2nd gear.   i pulled over, checked my clutch 
fluid.  it is full, like always.  i was very gentle on the gears on my way 
back to work, figuring it was the clutch line i have yet to replace.  it's 
still pretty crappy out and i just got home from work - the gears were 
starting to grind again as i was a couple blocks from my house.  it seems to 
work fine on a cold-warm start, but as you get going, it gets worse and 
worse.  the symptoms are grinding 1st and 2nd gear, as well as difficulty in 
getting out of gear sometimes.  yes, the clutch pedal is depressed ALL of the 
way.  i haven't ground on 3rd or 4th gear yet.  oh yeah - for the last couple 
months my reverse has grinded for a split second about every 4th time i shift 
into Reverse.  

would these be by-the-book symptoms of needing the stainless clutch line?  i 
just ordered it and warren said that it sounds like the problem.  what do the 
rest of you think?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 21:54:33 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: High idle speed

Arne, The readings I got is from the Idle speed thermistor is , 9 to 10k at 
room temp, 23k to 25k in ice water, and about 2k in hot tap water. If this 
isn't the problem, the the idle speed motor may be slow to respond and going 
out. If you could borrow a Idle speed ECU that would help check it out 
also.Make sure you have no vac leaks. Also check to make sure the microswitch 
is ok.
John hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:00:43
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Tires

Hey list,
I just thought I would let everyone know (In case you didn't already know) 
that there is a site called tirerack.com they have a listing for DeLorean 
and they have Great priced I just got two rear tires shipped to my door 
Firestone (yea I know lol) Firehawks. for $131.00. At least I think that is 
a good price. Well at the least check it out! I was surprised that they had 
a listing for DeLorean. The people on the phone were really nice too. All 
right, just thought I'd let everyone know.
Thanks for listing!


                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 20:57:19 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: The $5 window fix

Could someone refresh my memory as to what the $5 fix is?

Perhaps you can quote the original message that describes this fix or steer
me to the web link.

Thanks.
Scott

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 5:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] The $5 window fix


I have the $5 fix on my car and it has been working perfectly for over 2
years now.

Snipped

Regards,
Darren Decker
VIN 5000
NC lic:  1981 DMC





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