From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 614
Date: Monday, July 02, 2001 4:28 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Subject:: What you see IS NOT always what you get
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com

2. RE: Automatic interior light
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

3. Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff
From: "Aaron King" <floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com>

4. Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>

5. AC Problems
From: "Jim Reeve"<ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

6. Re: Car cover
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

7. Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: Dwayne Thompson <one80extreme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Re: Car cover
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

9. solid steel clutch line
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>

10. my tach doesn't work
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

11. Re: AC Problems
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

12. RE: AC Problems
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

13. Re: Subject:: What you see IS NOT always what you get
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

14. Re: Subject:: What you see IS NOT always what you get
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

15. Re: Automatic interior light
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

16. Re: Lightened flywheels and other performance
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

17. Re: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

18. Re: my tach doesn't work
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 19:23:39 -0000
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Subject:: What you see IS NOT always what you get



 From: CBL302 [mailto:CBL302_at_dml_email.msn.com]
 Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:45 PM
 
 Subject: Re: What you see IS NOT always what you get
 
 
 
  I just want some future Delorean Buyer to Relize,just because a
  Delorean IS painted does not
  mean that car was in a collision(painted Delorean)and one that is
  orignal does not mean it was never involved in a major Collision,I
  would say at least 15%+or- of the  orignal"(unpainted) Deloreans 
were             
  involved in a accident,sometime in its past, enough to do some 
frame damage,as I finally
  located my 1983 Delorean and told the present owner about its past
  history See past archives #5241,(I only came across it by pure 
chance,seeing a for sale ad of Vin# xxxxx at the DMCXXXX  for sale 
site)I emailed him, as a make believe buyer,to find out if he knew if 
it was ever involved in a accident,and he said,No, As from all 
outside appearences you
  CANNOT tell it was involved in a major collision,enough to give it a
  salvage title in its past,He told me,It was brought over to a New 
York Delorean Repairer on Long Island to have some service/work 
   on it(the present owner told me they (the long Island Delorean 
Repairer worked on it before I
  informed him of its past history) and never noticed/informed the
  owners(past or present,it was brought over there by at least two 
previous owners) about any telltale signs of MAJOR collision
  repairs,(OR this Present owner was bold face lying to ME!!! to make 
a Sale)MY POINT here is if it can fool  THE BEST of the Delorean 
Repairers,somebody that works on these
  cars all day long,BUYER BEWARE,and check that Delorean with a fine
  tooth comb,(DO A THROUGH TITLE search,and try to talk to ALL past
  owners) before you plunk down that hard earned cash. Here is a copy
  of the email I sent to the present owner:
 
  I hate to be the bearer of bad news,BUT I have been searching for 
Vin
  xxxxx for a VERY,VERY long time,to let the owner(s) know what carfax
  reports says about vin xxxxx,(Shows on carfax as a CLEAN car)IT HAD 
a
  salvage title when I bought it,first owner on title was a Joseph 
xxxxxxx(860 225-xxxx)
  he was the person involved in the collision,(I bought it from 
xxxxxxx auto Sales,in
  East Haven Connecticut, with a Salvage Title) Then  I went through 
all
  the legal channels in Connecticut,to Repair and register vin
  xxxxx),as you can see for yourself,it is very hard to tell where the
  repairs were made(I have a picture of the before as I got it,I also
  have video of the repairs as I was doing them,this was in 1987-1988
  when the collision repairs were done/completed,it was hit on the
  drivers front,sustaining damage to the black underbody,I cut off a
  complete section(the complete corner area up to the open where the
  hollow area is for the jack,and up to the drivers wheelwell (I have
  video of this)it sustained frame damage,but I only had the best in
  the business(at that time) repair the frame,xxxxxxxx Motors auto 
Body (860 666xxxx)(cost
  me  big bucks, to have that repaired,also I
  replaced all the suspension pieces on the drivers side,and of course
  the Stainless steel panels,the panels replaced were the Front
  fascia,Hood,Windshield (with gold tinted)lower spoiler,Drivers
  fender,Drivers Door,and the Drivers Quarter Panel.also front wheel
  and tire,I sold it to that next owner,the  "Doctor"(a real jerk)
(with a
  Connecticut "rebuilt" Title)with the UNDERSTANDING that,he would
      pass
  on the above history of vin#xxxxx,and the paperwork would ALWAYS 
have Rebuilt stamped to it,BUT as I now find out,that it was
  never passed on(the paperwork stating "rebuilt),as I sold it to him 
at a cost of my parts and labor
  only,and what I paid for it.THE good News is you Qualify for the
  Carfax $5000.00 Guarantee ,I also tried to Forewarn any buyers about
  Vinxxxxx,thru the DML(Delorean Mailing List) see   archives dated
  Dec.7.1999,all you have to do is go into the DML archives and type 
in
  the vin number,and the below message will pop up.I AM REALLY REALLY 
surprised
  that P X Gxxxxx did not pick-up the telltale signs of collision 
repairs.
(NOTE:THE present owner might have lied,about the last sentence!!!!)
 
  THE main Key Point is BUYER BEWARE,all the owners of my previous 
Delorean
 Vin# (xxxxx) NEVER Knew that they were buying a Delorean that had 
been
 in a major accident,(because someone after my ownership "cleaned" 
the Title/paperwork)(I assumed the Salvage/ rebuilt title would 
follow the
 car/could be easily traced down,and when I found out it Disappeared,
(the paperwork that told the history of its past)I was
 PISSED!!!I was Totally HONEST and 100% legal when I sold it,THEN the 
person
 I sold it to, or the next person , SOMEONE converted it into A CLEAN
 title,with No back ground of any major Collision reports.ABOUT 
the "D" Repairer shop,NO I am only making
 a point that EVEN THE BEST  (MAJOR Delorean Repairers)can be 
fooled,when the car appears to
 have all orignal unpainted SS panels,MOST people assume that,a 
Delorean(or
 any delorean with unpainted/undamaged panels could  NEVER have been 
involved
 in a collision that required major rebuild,Again the main
 point was/is when buying a Delorean,  to TRUST NO ones word about 
the HISTORY of a car and
 do a through investigation before commiting to buying.
 
Claude
000570

 
 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 18:46:08 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Automatic interior light

which position is the automatic position?  It seems to just always stay on.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 12:59 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Automatic interior light


Kevin,
There are two door push button switches on the drivers side of the car. One
controls the door light and the second controls the annoying door buzzer.
Under the dash each switch has a pair of wires going to it. They should be
in taped bundles. Take a paper clip or short piece of wire and short the two
wires of each bundle, either the buzzer will buzz or the light will come on
depending which pair you are working with. If the lights still don't work
check the number 12 fuse and also the bulbs in the lamps and also make sure
the lamp is in the automatic position

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
To: "Dmcnews (E-mail)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:03 PM
Subject: [DML] Automatic interior light


> My interior light does not go on in the car when I open the doors.  Was
this
> the way the car was designed?  I disconnected my door buzzer, so if this
is
> what causes this issue, let me know and I will crawl back under a rock.
>
> If not, is there any way to rig the light to work this way?
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 17:44:20 -0700
From: "Aaron King" <floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com>
Subject: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff

I am trying to figure out some different things I can do to my car (81 auto trans) to make it perform better without (1) swapping out the engine which would cost big $$$ or (2) getting the engine upgrade from Houston which would also cost big $$$.  Also, a turbo from Turbo Manifold Co is out of the question at $6000.  So far, I have a list of things I could do that would cost less.  These things might include: Cam regrinding, lightened flywheel, headers/exhaust work, and air intake work.

The cam regrinding would cost me ~$100 for both, assuming I can remove and reinstall them myself.  I don't know if I can do that or not, so I'm holding off on that for now.

A lightened flywheel can provide a pretty big performance boost.  However, I read a message in the archives by DMC Joe that said only the stock flywheel should be used.  DMC Joe (or whoever), could you expand on that?

I contacted Dave Burrows at DRB Car Spares & Accessories in England about headers.  Apparently, they are still in development and Custom Chrome (the manufacturer) says they won't be available until late this year or early next.  Oh, well.  Maybe then.

Air intake work.  I can't find anything at all here.  Every so often a thread comes around on the list about someone taking the initiative and designing a new airbox\intake system.  It hasn't happened yet, so for now, I'm just satisfied with the K&N filter and removed valve thingy.

Oh, maybe I should mention why I'm posting this.  I guess I'm just frustrated when I get smoked off the line by a chevy panel van even when I have it floored.  Grrrrrr.  I guess I still love my car anyway..... :)

Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
vin#1217


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 22:49:27 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>
Subject: Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?

Mads,

I had my plastic clutch line replaced with a solid steel line in the early
eighties.  I don't think anyone had thought of braided ss lines at that time.  Yours
was probably replaced early on also.

Bill Lane
#3635

"M.C. de Bruin" wrote:

> After following this thread the past few days, I have to ask this question.
> Recently I discovered that my car has a complete steel clutchline. It is a solid
> steel line of about 3 or 4 mm thick. Has anyone heard of this before or am I the
> only one and isn't the clutch line to narrow?
>
> Mads
> #06881
>
> deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 6/27/01 1:01:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > wiltzius_at_dml_doit.wisc.edu writes:
> >
> > > Is there truth to this rumor or is it possible to just
> > > swap out the plastic line for the steel one? Any insights/experiences
> > > welcome!
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I did my master cylinder and slave at the same time, but that was by choice.
> > (Those two you SHOULD replace together.  Mine were pretty nasty looking.) The
> > workshop manual says you have to lift the body slightly off the frame to
> > replace the clutch line, (!) but that isn't necessary.  Just leave the old
> > one, and run the new S.S. one in place of it.
> >
> > -Wayne A. Ernst
> > DMCTech Group
> >



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 05:45:21 GMT
From: "Jim Reeve"<ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: AC Problems

While driving around today, enjoying nearly 400 peacefull miles of country cruising
in the D, I encountered 2 different problems with the AC system, although it
still seemed to work.

First problem, the AC compressor would turn on and off VERY fast, (up to several
times a second.)  It started only doing this intermitently, but now it seems
to do it constantly at anything above an idle (and sometimes, even idle).  I
dont know any service history on my AC system, and I am guessing it is low on
freon.  Any other possibilities?

Other problem, I think the water drain is clogged.  The day after I got my car
started this year, (June 9th) I ran the AC for quite a long time to make sure
everything was still working.  While it was doing this, I could see a LOT of
water pouring out of the rubber hose by the heater hoses outside.  But I've
recently discovered my carpets to be completely soaked, and a large pool of
water in the floor vents and on the fiberglass behind the center console.  I
checked the rubber hose to find nothing coming out of it.  I tried looking in
the car to see where it attaches, but I couldn't find it.  I would prefer not
to blow air into the hose from the outside, as I do not want to blow whatever
is in there further into the HVAC box.  What recommendations does anyone have
to clearing up this drain?

Other than that, my drive was great.  Weather was nice, but hot.  The car behaived
perfectly for everything else.  Afterwards I even managed to pull a few butterflies
out of the dummy grill to find they were still alive.  I guess the car will
never stay clean if I keep driving it, but its too dang fun!!!!

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 13:27:55 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Car cover

I have one of the car covers from Wal Mart. I believe that they only 
sell one brand. Size #2 will fit the DeLorean, and it does say it 
specificly on the box as well. The cover itself is a light blue-ish 
gray, and comes with it's own storage pouch sewn onto it. It also has 
2 built in grommets on the sides.

I can tell you that the cover fits very well, and is in fact VERY 
snug. I use two bungee cords in the grommets to hold the cover down 
from wind. And there is just engouh cover left to not only cover up 
the facias completly, but to also tuck under the tires.
The only downside is that the lower lip of the front spoiler can 
sometimes pop out from under the cover. So it's not quite as exact as 
the official cover by DMC pictured in the catalogue. Plus aesthetic 
wise, the DeLorean has the side 'pouches' for the side mirrors. Other 
than that, it is quite a good fit for under $20. If you wanted 
anything more exact, you would probably have to order it custom.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., CBL302_at_dml_m... wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., BondAtomic_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > I am pretty desperate: does anyone have a cover for sale? The one 
> with the bag that says DeLorean. I am in need for one, and called 
DMC 
> Houston, and they said they didn't have one. I am going to call 
once 
> more, but if anyone has a cover for sale, please e-mail me 
privately.
> > 
> > Thanks a lot,
> > John Feldman
> > VIN 4275
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> If you are in need of a cover to protect your Delorean,from the 
> elements,Wal-mart has some pretty Decent covers,that will fit a 
> Delorean,in Fact I even think,it says it fits a Delorean on the Box
(I 
> know it says Bricklin,Because that is why I bought one,and they fit 
> pretty Snug I might say (at least on a Brick)They are VERY 
reasonably 
> priced,AND you don't have to wait to get it.(Or at the least,use it 
> till you get the one you want,then return it)
> 
> Claude
> 000570




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 18:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dwayne Thompson <one80extreme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: This thread is pretty much exhausted and there is little new informative content, so I'm dropping further posts on this.]



I have to concur. I never really thought about trying
to do maintenance on a vehicle until now. Members in
the club have encouraged me to tackle some of the
repairs myself. I'm finding it to be challenging but
not overly difficult. I always, however, ask if I
should try to do something myself. The vast majority
of the time it's I should! If I get backed into a
corner, they help me out. Extremely rewarding!

Dwayne
Vin# 1370

--- Carl Littlejohns <carlmailuk_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> On the other hand - (Im not a DL owner, but a rather
> clumsy, non mechanical 
> tech-head who can cut himself turning a sheet of
> paper, and better classified 
> as a DL-wannabee) - all the 'problems' discussed
> here are discussed in terms 
> of the solution(s) that are being tried or have
> worked.  You just dont get 
> that with motor cars these days...its dealer only
> and pull out and replace, 
> rather than repair or fix.  The car comes across as
> at least maintenance 
> friendly as it was so designed...and its also clear
> why the mainstream car 
> internationals were so against it at the time....
> 
> I think this list puts DMC vehicles much more into
> 'creative hobby' than 'car 
> list' category.  Its fascinating...and I can
> dream...one day...
> 
> Dr. Carl Littlejohns
> N.Wales
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 11:16:59 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: Car cover


    Beverly Hills Motoring Accessories sells a custom made car cover. You can 
choose from a variety of materials and UV protection ratings.
Regards,
Mike



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 16:17:13 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: solid steel clutch line

Mads,

you are not the only one!
My car is also equipped with the solid steel clutch line. I checked it with
a magnet. It is definitely steel. There is no sign of rust, so it must be a
stainless steel. Before someone asks: There are different kinds of stainless
steels and not all of them are non-magnetic.

Does anybody know, if these lines were possibly installed by the Quality
Assurance Centers? I know that my car was definitely at a QAC because every
update was made and there is the QAC sticker on the drivers side window.

bye,

Ralf.
VIN10284

> Prior to the availability of the Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line
replacement the installation of a solid pipe, as you have described, was
installed by some owners.
>
> DMC Joe
>
> www.dmc.tv
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: M.C. de Bruin
>   To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 3:14 AM
>   Subject: Re: [DML] Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
>
>
>   After following this thread the past few days, I have to ask this
question.
>   Recently I discovered that my car has a complete steel clutchline. It is
a solid
>   steel line of about 3 or 4 mm thick. Has anyone heard of this before or
am I the
>   only one and isn't the clutch line to narrow?
>
>   Mads
>   #06881
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 11:38:09 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: my tach doesn't work

Help me people, my tach does not work at all, it just stays at 1500 rpm all the time. Have any of you had this problem? Is it most likely the tach or the wiring? How hard is it to take the tach out and what does that involve? Thanks, guys.

Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 13:39:59 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: AC Problems

Jim,
Always check your electrical connections first. The fact that the system worked fine
the day before tends to lead me to believe that some connector is loose or dirty. Start
in the engine compartment under the "Integument Cover" in the right corner. Trace the
pink wire from the compressor to the connector, remove and WD40 the contacts. Check the
number 10 fuse. Check the low pressure cutout switch located behind the right front
wheel.

Next, get a set of gages and check the pressures when the compressor cuts out. If the
pressure is above 30 pounds then the low pressure cutout switch is suspect.

Several people have said to use a public vacuum cleaner like at a gas station, and
place it over the drain tube and suck out the gook.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573

Jim Reeve wrote:

> First problem, the AC compressor would turn on and off VERY fast, (up to several
> times a second.)  It started only doing this intermitently, but now it seems
> to do it constantly at anything above an idle (and sometimes, even idle).  I
> dont know any service history on my AC system, and I am guessing it is low on
> freon.  Any other possibilities?
>
> Other problem, I think the water drain is clogged.  The day after I got my car
> started this year, (June 9th) I ran the AC for quite a long time to make sure
> everything was still working.  While it was doing this, I could see a LOT of
> water pouring out of the rubber hose by the heater hoses outside.  But I've
> recently discovered my carpets to be completely soaked, and a large pool of
> water in the floor vents and on the fiberglass behind the center console.  I
> checked the rubber hose to find nothing coming out of it.  I tried looking in
> the car to see where it attaches, but I couldn't find it.  I would prefer not
> to blow air into the hose from the outside, as I do not want to blow whatever
> is in there further into the HVAC box.  What recommendations does anyone have
> to clearing up this drain?
>
> Other than that, my drive was great.  Weather was nice, but hot.  The car behaived
> perfectly for everything else.  Afterwards I even managed to pull a few butterflies
> out of the dummy grill to find they were still alive.  I guess the car will
> never stay clean if I keep driving it, but its too dang fun!!!!
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 15:59:05 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: AC Problems

Jim

My Bonneville AC was cycling rapidly and there was the proper amount of
R-134.  It turned out to be the AC Cycling Pressure Switch that is mounted
to the Drier/Accumulator.  About $14 at the parts house.   It just screws
on, there is a Schrader valve behind it to prevent the loss of Refrigerant.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: ultra_at_dml_isd.net [mailto:ultra_at_dml_isd.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 12:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] AC Problems


While driving around today, enjoying nearly 400 peacefull miles of country
cruising
in the D, I encountered 2 different problems with the AC system, although it
still seemed to work.

First problem, the AC compressor would turn on and off VERY fast, (up to
several
times a second.)  It started only doing this intermitently, but now it seems
to do it constantly at anything above an idle (and sometimes, even idle).  I
dont know any service history on my AC system, and I am guessing it is low
on
freon.  Any other possibilities?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 16:45:23 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Subject:: What you see IS NOT always what you get

Everything that you are saying applies to ANY 20 year old car. 
Especially if it has passed through several owners hands as they don't 
pass the history down. Of course when you buy a used car it is buyer 
beware but that is for ANY used car and Deloreans are no more prone to 
these things than any other make. If you want to minimize your risks 
try to buy from an origional or "first" owner and contact the vender 
he bought parts from as they try to keep a history of the parts and 
service that they do to a particular car. In many states you can order 
a "specific" or a vehicle history for a small amount of money but your 
best option is to have someone knowledgeable about the make of vehicle 
inspect it as completly as time, money, and geography permits. Money 
spent before you buy will save buying the "wrong" car or at least you 
can plan for what you are getting into. Join a local club as they 
usually know many of the local cars and owners and can tell you what 
to look for and may help in finding you a car or help in inspecting 
it. If you don't do your homework before buying then you will get 
exactly what you AREN'T looking for! Consider the problems if it turns 
out that the car was stolen. You will be out your money AND the car!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., CBL302_at_dml_m... wrote:
> 
> 
>  From: CBL302 [mailto:CBL302_at_dml_e...]
>  Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:45 PM
>  
>  Subject: Re: What you see IS NOT always what you get
>  
>  
>  
>   I just want some future Delorean Buyer to Relize,just because a
>   Delorean IS painted does not
>   mean that car was in a collision(painted Delorean)and one that is
>   orignal does not mean it was never involved in a major Collision,I
>   would say at least 15%+or- of the  orignal"(unpainted) Deloreans 
> were             
>   involved in a accident,sometime in its past, enough to do some 
> frame damage,as I finally
>   located my 1983 Delorean and told the present owner about its past
>   history See past archives #5241,(I only came across it by pure 
> chance,seeing a for sale ad of Vin# xxxxx at the DMCXXXX  for sale 
> site)I emailed him, as a make believe buyer,to find out if he knew 
if 
> it was ever involved in a accident,and he said,No, As from all 
> outside appearences you
>   CANNOT tell it was involved in a major collision,enough to give it 
a
>   salvage title in its past,He told me,It was brought over to a New 
> York Delorean Repairer on Long Island to have some service/work 
>    on it(the present owner told me they (the long Island Delorean 
> Repairer worked on it before I
>   informed him of its past history) and never noticed/informed the
>   owners(past or present,it was brought over there by at least two 
> previous owners) about any telltale signs of MAJOR collision
>   repairs,(OR this Present owner was bold face lying to ME!!! to 
make 
> a Sale)MY POINT here is if it can fool  THE BEST of the Delorean 
> Repairers,somebody that works on these
>   cars all day long,BUYER BEWARE,and check that Delorean with a fine
>   tooth comb,(DO A THROUGH TITLE search,and try to talk to ALL past
>   owners) before you plunk down that hard earned cash. Here is a 
copy
>   of the email I sent to the present owner:
>  
>   I hate to be the bearer of bad news,BUT I have been searching for 
> Vin
>   xxxxx for a VERY,VERY long time,to let the owner(s) know what 
carfax
>   reports says about vin xxxxx,(Shows on carfax as a CLEAN car)IT 
HAD 
> a
>   salvage title when I bought it,first owner on title was a Joseph 
> xxxxxxx(860 225-xxxx)
>   he was the person involved in the collision,(I bought it from 
> xxxxxxx auto Sales,in
>   East Haven Connecticut, with a Salvage Title) Then  I went through 
> all
>   the legal channels in Connecticut,to Repair and register vin
>   xxxxx),as you can see for yourself,it is very hard to tell where 
the
>   repairs were made(I have a picture of the before as I got it,I 
also
>   have video of the repairs as I was doing them,this was in 
1987-1988
>   when the collision repairs were done/completed,it was hit on the
>   drivers front,sustaining damage to the black underbody,I cut off a
>   complete section(the complete corner area up to the open where the
>   hollow area is for the jack,and up to the drivers wheelwell (I 
have
>   video of this)it sustained frame damage,but I only had the best in
>   the business(at that time) repair the frame,xxxxxxxx Motors auto 
> Body (860 666xxxx)(cost
>   me  big bucks, to have that repaired,also I
>   replaced all the suspension pieces on the drivers side,and of 
course
>   the Stainless steel panels,the panels replaced were the Front
>   fascia,Hood,Windshield (with gold tinted)lower spoiler,Drivers
>   fender,Drivers Door,and the Drivers Quarter Panel.also front wheel
>   and tire,I sold it to that next owner,the  "Doctor"(a real jerk)
> (with a
>   Connecticut "rebuilt" Title)with the UNDERSTANDING that,he would
>       pass
>   on the above history of vin#xxxxx,and the paperwork would ALWAYS 
> have Rebuilt stamped to it,BUT as I now find out,that it was
>   never passed on(the paperwork stating "rebuilt),as I sold it to 
him 
> at a cost of my parts and labor
>   only,and what I paid for it.THE good News is you Qualify for the
>   Carfax $5000.00 Guarantee ,I also tried to Forewarn any buyers 
about
>   Vinxxxxx,thru the DML(Delorean Mailing List) see   archives dated
>   Dec.7.1999,all you have to do is go into the DML archives and type 
> in
>   the vin number,and the below message will pop up.I AM REALLY 
REALLY 
> surprised
>   that P X Gxxxxx did not pick-up the telltale signs of collision 
> repairs.
> (NOTE:THE present owner might have lied,about the last sentence!!!!)
>  
>   THE main Key Point is BUYER BEWARE,all the owners of my previous 
> Delorean
>  Vin# (xxxxx) NEVER Knew that they were buying a Delorean that had 
> been
>  in a major accident,(because someone after my ownership "cleaned" 
> the Title/paperwork)(I assumed the Salvage/ rebuilt title would 
> follow the
>  car/could be easily traced down,and when I found out it 
Disappeared,
> (the paperwork that told the history of its past)I was
>  PISSED!!!I was Totally HONEST and 100% legal when I sold it,THEN 
the 
> person
>  I sold it to, or the next person , SOMEONE converted it into A 
CLEAN
>  title,with No back ground of any major Collision reports.ABOUT 
> the "D" Repairer shop,NO I am only making
>  a point that EVEN THE BEST  (MAJOR Delorean Repairers)can be 
> fooled,when the car appears to
>  have all orignal unpainted SS panels,MOST people assume that,a 
> Delorean(or
>  any delorean with unpainted/undamaged panels could  NEVER have been 
> involved
>  in a collision that required major rebuild,Again the main
>  point was/is when buying a Delorean,  to TRUST NO ones word about 
> the HISTORY of a car and
>  do a through investigation before commiting to buying.
>  
> Claude
> 000570




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 17:14:12 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Subject:: What you see IS NOT always what you get

I wholeheartedly agree with you in the statement Buyer Beware. CarFax 
is a good source to help reduce your chances of buying a car with a 
bad history. But it will never protect you 100%. The problem is that 
CarFax is only as good as the information reported to it. Example: I 
am the 2nd owner of my car, but it has had 4 seperate licence plates 
over it's life time, and has recently been to the DMV's in California 
and Nevada 4 times in the past year and a half. Of everything that my 
car has been thru with title issues and registratinons, only 2 smog 
checks show on CarFax. On top of that, one one of those reported the 
milage of my car. This year I elected to renew my tags via the 
internet. I smogged my car, then came home and went online to 
complete my renewal. 3 days later I got my tags in the mail. But not 
even my renewal this year has not been recorded. It just goes to show 
that there are still alot of loopholes when it comes to CarFax.

A salvage title on a car can be "washed" much easier than you think. 
Different states use different codes for titles. In some states the 
salvage brand my only be represented by the letter "S", or even just 
a simple number rather than the entire word "Salvage". When the title 
arrives at a new state for processing, the state will try to adapt 
the codes appropriately. If the code used for the salvage title 
doesn't apply (differnt meaning i.e. S = Special Use), or the code is 
unknown, it can be assumed not applicable. When this happens, the 
code is dropped. Data entry is only as good as the resources given to 
a person or machine. A washed title can happen accidently, But it is 
the responsibilty of the owner to pass along the appropriate 
informantion if and when the car's paperwork does not reflect it. 
Just because the paper is clean, doesn't mean the 
responsability/liability has gone away.

Judging the history of a car solely on it's appearance is no way to 
go. Painted or unpainted, you always want to get a good look at the 
underside of a car. Not just for rust, but you should ALWAYS check 
for welding scars on the chassis. DeLorean specific, I would check 
for not just flaking of the epoxy, but variations in color/texture as 
well. You would also want to check for unusual seams or scars on the 
fiberglass underbody as well. As much as I would like to include body 
panel alignment, it's just not always feasable with the DeLorean. 
Evidenced by the eyebrows, the facias are prone to warping. Even my 
rear facia needs to be realigned with my quarter panels a bit. Check 
tire wear for signs of uneveness. When test driving check the 
alignment, etc... If unsure what to look for, bring someone with you 
that knows DeLorean's, if not damage repair in general.

Another good way to check if the owner is telling you the whole story 
about the car is to hit the owner with questions about the car that 
are unrelated to another, and are out of sync. When did you buy the 
car? How many miles are on it? What do you use to wash it? What's the 
fastest you've ever taken it? When was the last oil change? What made 
you want to buy this car? Why are you selling it? How often do you 
vaccum the carpet? etc...

I know it sounds off the wall, but ask questions in a random, 
unrelated order. Always keep shifting gears in the conversation. Some 
questions such as why the person purchased the car/why they are 
selling it can help determine the use/abuse/condition of the car. 
Questions like these should be repeated a couple of times to see if 
the stories match. While he/she may have to think a bit, a good owner 
should have answers that match. Plus, don't be afraid to ask about 
something. If you're going to be putting down your hard earned money 
for a vehicle, the seller/owner should be able to answer all 
reasonable questions about their car. If not, don't be afraid to 
probe why.

Just a few tips to help out seeking you own dream to live...

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 12:51:19 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic interior light

Kevin,
Because the light fixtures can be removed and rotated when put back that it is
difficult to say what position is automatic or always on. I am assuming that you
are saying that the light now stays on all of the time while the two switch
wires are shorted or connected to the switch and the door is in the open
position. If the switch wires are not connected to the switch and not shorted
does the light work in any position?(Tilted forward, center, or back) The light
has three positions, ON, OFF, and DOOR OPERATED. The lights also have a 15-20
second shutoff delay after you close the doors.

Dave Sontos

Kevin Abato wrote:

> which position is the automatic position?  It seems to just always stay on.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net]
> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 12:59 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Automatic interior light
>
> Kevin,
> There are two door push button switches on the drivers side of the car. One
> controls the door light and the second controls the annoying door buzzer.
> Under the dash each switch has a pair of wires going to it. They should be
> in taped bundles. Take a paper clip or short piece of wire and short the two
> wires of each bundle, either the buzzer will buzz or the light will come on
> depending which pair you are working with. If the lights still don't work
> check the number 12 fuse and also the bulbs in the lamps and also make sure
> the lamp is in the automatic position
>
> Dave Sontos
> VIN 02573
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
> To: "Dmcnews (E-mail)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:03 PM
> Subject: [DML] Automatic interior light
>
> > My interior light does not go on in the car when I open the doors.  Was
> this
> > the way the car was designed?  I disconnected my door buzzer, so if this
> is
> > what causes this issue, let me know and I will crawl back under a rock.
> >
> > If not, is there any way to rig the light to work this way?
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 14:08:42 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: Re: Lightened flywheels and other performance

Aaron,

No matter what you do to your DeLorean there will always be someone faster
come along. Is it really necessary to out-drag a 500 horsepower Chrysler
Viper at a stop light? In my not so humble opinion, it almost seems
sacrilegious to modify a DeLorean into a muscle car. It should be
appreciated for its uniqueness. Wasn't it Mark Twain who said there has to
be more to life than increasing its speed?

Joe Thome
VIN 6467


----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron King" <floodle_at_dml_subdimension.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 5:44 PM
Subject: [DML] Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff


> I am trying to figure out some different things I can do to my car (81
auto trans) to make it perform better without (1) swapping out the engine
which would cost big $$$ or (2) getting the engine upgrade from Houston
which would also cost big $$$.  Also, a turbo from Turbo Manifold Co is out
of the question at $6000.  So far, I have a list of things I could do that
would cost less.  These things might include: Cam regrinding, lightened
flywheel, headers/exhaust work, and air intake work.
>
> The cam regrinding would cost me ~$100 for both, assuming I can remove and
reinstall them myself.  I don't know if I can do that or not, so I'm holding
off on that for now.
>
> A lightened flywheel can provide a pretty big performance boost.  However,
I read a message in the archives by DMC Joe that said only the stock
flywheel should be used.  DMC Joe (or whoever), could you expand on that?
>
> I contacted Dave Burrows at DRB Car Spares & Accessories in England about
headers.  Apparently, they are still in development and Custom Chrome (the
manufacturer) says they won't be available until late this year or early
next.  Oh, well.  Maybe then.
>
> Air intake work.  I can't find anything at all here.  Every so often a
thread comes around on the list about someone taking the initiative and
designing a new airbox\intake system.  It hasn't happened yet, so for now,
I'm just satisfied with the K&N filter and removed valve thingy.
>
> Oh, maybe I should mention why I'm posting this.  I guess I'm just
frustrated when I get smoked off the line by a chevy panel van even when I
have it floored.  Grrrrrr.  I guess I still love my car anyway..... :)
>
> Aaron King
> Kirkland, WA
> vin#1217
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 18:28:14 -0700
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff

I thought about a light flywheel but my main concern was whether the odd
firing engine would shake more than it normally does. I'd think a heavier
flywheel would help in this regard. Also the durability of an aluminum
flywheel in everyday driving sounds questionable

Bruce Benson.

>A lightened flywheel can provide a pretty big performance boost.  However,
>I read a message in the archives by DMC Joe that said only the stock
flywheel >should be used.  DMC Joe (or whoever), could you expand on that?
> Aaron King
> Kirkland, WA
> vin#1217





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 02:33:04 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: my tach doesn't work

Before you go pulling apart the binnacle try cleaning the ground 
connection on the frame just inside and in front of the left front 
wheel (It is easier if you jack up the car and remove the wheel 
first). There are many wires at that point and just might be the 
problem. The tach circuit is very simple so if the engine is runnng 
correctly it is unlikely that wiring is the cause. I would guess it is 
either a grounding problem, a loose connector at the binnacle 
connecting the tach, or a bad tach which is unlikely but not 
impossible. When and if you pull the tach check for continuity on the 
w/s wire (white/slate) which should get to the coil. Don't touch this 
wire with the motor running, check when it is off! Removing the 
binnacle isn't too terrible if you can lay underneath the dash and are 
slow and careful. A trick I use is to sit in the seat with my head on 
the floor and my feet on the headrest. It is better than trying to lay 
over the sill and turn your head 180 degrees. Some people have said it 
is simpler to remove the seat to work under the dash but I haven't 
tried that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Help me people, my tach does not work at all, it just stays at 1500 
rpm all the time. Have any of you had this problem? Is it most likely 
the tach or the wiring? How hard is it to take the tach out and what 
does that involve? Thanks, guys.
> 
> Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_o... 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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