From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 639
Date: Sunday, July 22, 2001 3:53 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. LED Lights (was: Re: Finding Light Bulbs)
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

2. D in my area
From: Farrar <smeghead79_at_dml_home.com>

3. Washer Fluid Pump.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

4. Re: OIL!
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

5. Injector Line Seals
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>

6. Re: Injector Line Seals
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

7. The Otterstat
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

8. Grinding
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

9. DeLorean TV Appearance
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 09:53:58 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: LED Lights (was: Re: Finding Light Bulbs)

To add something to this topic, LEDs would be perfect for the center 
console. The four lights behind the panel right now feed a 
crude "fiber optic" series of plastic lines that feed light to the 
panel. The lights as they are right now are recessed, so the focused 
beam that the usual LED puts out would work just fine.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_v...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> 2. LEDs have a directional beam of light.
<SNIP>




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 01:56:13 -0500
From: Farrar <smeghead79_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: D in my area

I see a DeLorean for sale on ebay (item number 593399894) in the New
Orleans area. Unfortunately I cannot buy it myself! If anybody would
like me to check this vehicle out on your behalf, I will be happy to do
so. The owner says it is manual trans, 24200 miles, problem with power
windows but everything else fine. Of course, my inspection would be much
more thorough.

Just let me know! :)

Best regards
Farrar Hudkins



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 10:33:13 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Washer Fluid Pump.

A little while ago, I saw a posting that someone made that stated 
that they were able to sucessfully repair their Washer Fluid Pump. 
Well today was my day off, and with nothing better to do, I fixed my 
motor as well. As I discovered when I opened the casing, the magnets 
on the sides of the housing had indeed rusted the brushes into place. 
Using a pair of pliers to get a steady grip, I was able to pull the 
center impeller out. Gently using 400 grit sand paper, I was able to 
clean the brushes. And with the addition of a small dowl, I removed 
the rust from the magnets. The little motor now runs like a champ, 
but I don't know for how long. If your D is a daily driver, and you 
have other projects going on, I would reccomend cleaning the motor to 
get it going again. But I wouldn't call this a permanent solution, as 
much as I would a temporary fix. As soon as I can, I'll order a new 
motor to replace this one. To be honest, replacement rather than 
repair is what should be done.

On another note, the problem with the motor rusting up seems to be 
poor drainage from the bucket that houses the reservoir tank. The 
drain holes in the container don't look big enough to allow water to 
drip out, let alone flow freely thru. When I took the bucket off, I 
saw load of grime, and a water mark that was over half-way up. To 
fix, I simply used a pocket knife and carved out a bigger hole by 
twisting the blade in the existing hole.

Like I said before, this is only a temporary fix. Judging by the 
amount of corrosion inside, and outside the motor, it is very likely 
the unit will fail again in the future. Fixing the motor right away 
is more of a safety issue to me if I get caught in the rain, and 
can't wash off road grime to see. A new unit is about $50 _at_dml_ DMC 
Houston, but at least you'll know it's a new, clean motor. I know 
there's products such as Rain-X, but the BOSCH Microedge wipers do 
such a great job, regular washer fluid gives the extra kick to clean 
off the really stubborn gunk. On a scale of 1-5, this was a 2 because 
I did need an extension on my rachet to reach the 8mm bolts.

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 12:00:45 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: OIL!


9 times out of 10, the oil leak is coming from a bad seal on an oil light sender, located on the back left hand side of the engine.  Sometimes, as in my case, the leak is a little more difficult to fix.  I have a bad crankshaft gasket, so I'm happy to let mine leak until I can't anymore.


Scott


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 12:43:32 -0700
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>
Subject: Injector Line Seals


        Hello all, 
               Does anyone know if there is a cross reference for the copper seals for the injector lines?
I need them pretty quick so I thought if I could go to a Volvo dealer or to Napa or somewhere today 
and pick them up I could get my car back together tonight. Can anyone help me? 

                                         Thanks in advance....................Jason


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 19:28:20 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Injector Line Seals

You're best bet is to stop by an auto parts store that specificly 
says BOSCH or Volvo supplier. Napa, CarQuest, and other stores will 
not have the parts you need. If nothing else, try stopping by a local 
Volvo shop to see if they have any extra seals they can sell you. As 
far as I know, the seals do not cross-over to anything else. Most 
major auto parts stores I've been to don't even have people who've 
ever seen a CIS system, let alone stock parts for one.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
>         Hello all, 
>                Does anyone know if there is a cross reference for 
the copper seals for the injector lines?
> I need them pretty quick so I thought if I could go to a Volvo 
dealer or to Napa or somewhere today 
> and pick them up I could get my car back together tonight. Can 
anyone help me?
<SNIP>




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 15:02:50 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: The Otterstat

Located on the underside (usually) of the left coolant pipe, near the
back.  OK, you know that.  Mine fell out, you may have read that.  It
fell out because it was the wrong one plus it didn't have the clip, that
wouldn't have fit it anyway, and it was held on with silicone seal which
ultimately let go.  Here's the point, the stock clip is really pathetic,
it has to rust out in time.  The real talents in our midst all agree
that the best way to keep it in place is with a nylon tie.  I'm
suggesting you put a tie around yours, even with the clip, you do it
from the top, in the engine compartment, don't even have to crawl
under.  If it falls out, much coolant immediately leaves your cooling
system and the otterstat doesn't know that your system is heating up
because it's hanging by it's wires below the engine where it's cool.
Your fans don't come on because the otterstat didn't tell them to.  You
can figure the rest of what might happen.  You could have saved it with
a 25 cent tie.   Cheap insurance?




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 15:05:07 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Grinding

I'm puzzled by a grinding my transmission is making.  It's suffering
symptoms of plastic clutch line syndrome, even though I replaced it with the
stainless braided one.  The transmission performs flawlessly when it's cold,
but when it get's hot it will grind downshifting to fourth.  It's only
downshifting though, I can upshift to fourth with no grinding or resistance
whatsoever even when it's hot.  At first I thought it may be a worn synchro
but if that were the case then wouldn't it grind shifting up or down, hot or
cold?  I've tried matching revs and even double-clutching, but it still
grinds no matter how creatively I downshift.  I can however avoid it by
shifting from fifth to third and then fourth, but I can't do this at high
speeds very easily.  Anyone have any ideas of what to try?  I have the
stainless fluid line and my slave cylinder doesn't appear to be leaking at
all.  And again, the transmission is flawless when cold.  The car has had a
new centerforce clutch at 56,000 miles and it has 61,000 now.

Also, I was going to change the transmission fluid (I doubt it will help,
but I don't know when it was last done) but no place around here carries the
oil recommended by the repair manual.  What would be the best brand and
weight to use?

Thanks everyone!

payne
#2975




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 17:33:42 -0000
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: DeLorean TV Appearance

Those of you DML'ers collecting DeLorean TV/Movie appearances,
I have another one for you.  I was watching an SNL rerun on comedy
central today, the one Michael J. Fox hosted to be specific.  After
George Bush's (Dana Carvey's) Second Post Gulf War Address, in
which Michael J. Fox was Dan Quayle, by the way, Michael J. Fox
started the show & did the usual things the host does.  Then he tells
a joke which bombs, and Kevin Neelon, dressed as Doc, & Dana Carvey
dressed as Michael from 90 minutes in the future rush in and tell
Michael he can't do the show because he bombs horribly & they have to
go back in time to keep him from ever hosting the show.  Then they
show a few clips of the Bttf 2 DeLorean superimposed flying around
outside the SNL studio.

John Yeoman





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