From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 643
Date: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:46 AM

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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Nylon tie wraps
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>

2. Re: R-12 recharge
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Bolts on hinges/gullwing door
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

4. PRV 6
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. All DeLoreans Interested
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com

6. Back on track!
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

7. Re: R-12 recharge
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 02:12:38 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Nylon tie wraps

Les!

I would not recommend using a nylon tie wrap for such important fastening
purposes.

Nylon, also known as "Polyamide" is not resistant to weathering. It will get
brittle and fail. Depending on the amount of weathering and the mechanical
stress on the tie wrap, it may take some years till this happens, but when
it happens, you wish you hadn't used it.

The nylons normally used for tie wraps are PA6 and PA6.6

For further info on Polyamide etc.:
 http://www.goodfellow.com/static/A/P.HTML

I would recommend a stainless hose clamp or a stainless tie wrap.

bye,

Ralf.

> I wrote last about adding a nylon tie, this I did.  Robert
> mentioned the stainless hose clamp, that was my first instinct too but I
> asked around and per previous the agreed upon clamp was the nylon tie.
> The hose clamp is probably overkill but no harm in that.  No bleeding
> problems, no problems at all but I have one other thought, there's room
> for more than one wire clamp if you care to use, If I had it to do over
> I'd use 2 clamps (still can, of course, and may still do it).  There's
> plenty of room and from a mechanical point of view just a better
> concept.  Then again, how much overkill do you need?





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 17:44:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 recharge

Sat for 15 years?? :)

Make sure you vaccuum out the fuel tank and put fresh
in before you start it :)

Mike

--- Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> Hello,
>     A friend of myne was kind enough to let me use
> his 30lb tank of R-12.  My 
> car sat untouched for 15 years so I am guessing the
> freon leaked out over 
> that time.  The low pressure switch is tripped so I
> know there must be very 
> little freon in the system.  I am bringing my car in
> on Friday morning to 
> have it evacuated and recharged.  Are there any
> parts I should have replaced 
> at this time?  or just see if it will hold a charge?
>  Please let me know ASAP 
> so I can next day air them if I need them.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David
> #6286
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 01:27:54 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Bolts on hinges/gullwing door

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I want to replace the bolts on the gullwing doors simply because of 
appearance. They look bad and rusty. The bolts Im talking about are 
the ones securing the hinges on the door.
> 
> Now, can I replace them one by one? Is this a safe procedure or do 
I have to relax the torsion bars?
> What I want to do is take the bolts one at a time when the doors 
are up. Loosen one, then replace it, then the next one etc.
> 
> Also, can stainless steel bolts be used or is there a stress factor 
involved here? I dont want the bolts to suddenly break!
> 
> Last question, what is the correct size on the bolts securing the 
hinges to the door?
> 
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



I can tell you that stainless steel fastners are not as strong as 
steel bolts, I was told this buy a local company that sell only 
stainless fastners. They warned me not to replaced any bolt with 
stainless steel
I would think that you would have to release all tension before you 
replace those bolts.Why don't you use a dremel with a wire brush and 
just clean and paint the exposed part of the bolt.





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 01:54:08
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: PRV 6

Hi list,
I just have a quick question; What other cars were equip with the PRV 6 
Engine?
Thanks so much!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301


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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 22:24:29 EDT
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: All DeLoreans Interested

Hello List,

This Saturday 7/28/01 at 4:30 pm three of us are getting together at Marcus 
Dairy in Danbury Connecticut.  We're looking for more DeLoreans.  Every 
Saturday there is a Cruise Night.  1979 cars or older with some exceptions, 
such as Corvettes and Exotic Sports Cars.  There is no fee for admittance.  
There are usually around 200+ cars.  I have been there many times myself, but 
I'm trying to get a bunch of DeLoreans together.  Crowds of people walk thru 
checking out all the cars.  If you told me more than 1000 people, I'd believe 
it!

Around 9:00 pm things start to break up.  Some people (cars) go home, others 
continue on to the Sycamore Diner in Bethel Connecticut.  The Sycamore is a 
50's Diner that still has car hop service like in the old days.

If you're interested e-mail me at FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com and I'll give you my 
phone numbers and directions.

Hope to hear from you,

Frank
VIN:  16509



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 03:12:48 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Back on track!

Well after a few weeks of not being able to work on my car, partly 
due to the fact I broke my only ignition key (DOH!) and also 
partially shaving the tip of my pinky off with a power planer (ouch!) 
I am back in the game. I'm happy to say I got a new key cut by Rob 
Grady and I'm getting back into working on my car (doing very small 
things until my finger recoups). 

Anyway here's the deal: I can start my engine with no problems but it 
does have a slight back firing problem in the high RPM's. I know it 
can be anything causing it but here's what's happening....I don't 
think my Frequency Valve is not functioning...I don't hear it buzzing 
while the engine is idling or when I rev the engine up...could this 
be what's causing my backfiring problem? Also...when I connect a 
DWELL meter to the diagnostic plug (to the same circuit that's for 
the Frequency Valve) I don't get any readings (as one website 
describes and a few Bosch K-Jet repair manuals say)...could I have a 
faulty computer?? Also another strange thing...I let my engine idle 
for a few minutes today....when I went to turn the ignition off the 
engine was still running after I turned the key to the off position 
and removed the key. I thought maybe there was something wrong with 
the ignition switch so I unplugged it....engine was still running. I 
next removed the RPM relay knowing that it would stop the fuel pump 
and kill the engine...that stopped the engine. This was the first 
time this had ever happened. 

I should note that my muffler is currently off the car and is 
probably not giving the required backpressure for the engine...the 
CAT converter is on though.

If anyone has any info...feel free to email me. If it was under 
different circumstances i would be diagnosing the entire system from 
top to bottom but I have to do minimal things and not fool around 
with the fuel system to much, I don't want to get gas in my 
wound...that would burn like a mother...anyway....any info would be 
appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 03:22:27 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: R-12 recharge

For a car that has sat over 15 years I would definitely replace ALL 
the rubber O-Rings on the A/C system. Over time the O-Rings begin to 
dry out and crack causing a leak. A/C systems should always be turned 
on for brief amount of time once in a while even when it's winter so 
that the oil in the A/C can "lube up" the rubber seals and prevent 
them from drying out. I believe most manufactures now automatically 
cycle the A/C on for a few seconds...you don't feel it since either 
A. you have he heat on and the A/C goes on for such a short period of 
time it's not enough time to get it cold and B. I believe it's right 
after the engine starts up the compressor cycles on/off. 

Replace all the rubber O-rings, including the ones that are located 
on the compressor in-between the compressor body and the two hoses 
bolted to it. They are not expensive and it's easier to do now since 
you'll have the A/C system open anyway. You may want to replace the 
Drier/Accum also since the system was "dry" for some time and 
moisture may have gotten into the system.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello,
>     A friend of myne was kind enough to let me use his 30lb tank of 
R-12.  My 
> car sat untouched for 15 years so I am guessing the freon leaked 
out over 
> that time.  The low pressure switch is tripped so I know there must 
be very 
> little freon in the system.  I am bringing my car in on Friday 
morning to 
> have it evacuated and recharged.  Are there any parts I should have 
replaced 
> at this time?  or just see if it will hold a charge?  Please let me 
know ASAP 
> so I can next day air them if I need them.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David
> #6286




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