From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 645
Date: Friday, July 27, 2001 5:01 AM

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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Classic car insurance
From: gighamcnei_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Rim replacement anyone?
From: "Sacha Prins" <sacha_at_dml_prins.net>

3. Right rear body panel removal
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. fuel pump relay
From: scottymckenzie_at_dml_altavista.com

5. Black DeLorean on ebay for $12k
From: fred50fred_at_dml_email.msn.com

6. Re: temp gauge problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Back on track!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Re: Terminology
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: PRV 6
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: Back on track! (update)
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

11. Re: fuel pump relay
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

12. 16" & 17" wheel discussion
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: fuel pump relay
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

14. What year is my car.
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

15. fan troubles
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: PRV 6
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com

17. RE: fan troubles
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 23:31:27 EDT
From: gighamcnei_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Classic car insurance

All State Insurance Company, invested in Delorean to make the safest car on 
the road which they did so, All State Ins Co., is by far the most reasonable 
in the USA.

The Ins premium on my D is less than on my 85 ford LTD.

11469



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 08:56:25 -0000
From: "Sacha Prins" <sacha_at_dml_prins.net>
Subject: Re: Rim replacement anyone?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Sacha,
> 
> You wanna see 16" & 17" wheels? Well check out this link.
> 
> http://24.189.72.26/dmc/

Nice car. And nice skirts!

Is your suspention lowered? Or is that effect created by the larger
rims and skirts?

Sacha






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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 06:31:32 -0600
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Right rear body panel removal

Group,

I am in the process of removing my right rear body panel and have run up
against a challenge. 

In the manual, Section P:02:03, it gives the procedures for quarter panel
removal. Steps 1 and 2 are no problem, but where are the "two screws from
each side, securing the rear facia reinforcement brackets to rear body
pontoons"? These are described in step 3.

Are these the stainless steel bolts on each side just in front of the outer
edges of the facia, but under the channel for the louvers? Removing them
does not allow me to "ease back end of rear facia and remove four screws
securing edge of fender to pontoon bracket" per step 4. I can get to the
upper one, but not the lower ones. Removing the bolt on the right (which has
a wire attached) does allow the panel to come loose from the bracket.

Can someone help me identify these screws so I can continue??

Steve
#3542





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 14:12:14 -0000
From: scottymckenzie_at_dml_altavista.com
Subject: fuel pump relay


I've been having trouble starting up and it seems to be a bad relay.
The problem is that the fuel pump doesn't do it's thing when the
ignition is on before cranking, and I've got it to work before by
tapping on some of the relays in the fuse box, but i'm not sure
which one it is that needs to be fixed, anyone have an idea?
thanks








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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 15:58:32 -0000
From: fred50fred_at_dml_email.msn.com
Subject: Black DeLorean on ebay for $12k

Looks pretty on the showroom floor. Has anyone seen it? Also, has a 
nice set of aftermarket wheels on it. Fred




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 14:25:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: temp gauge problem

The only way to properly test the gauge is to remove the binnacle. There are only three possible causes of a defective temperature gauge in the DeLorean. 
A: A defective sender 45%
B: An open connection (usually at the multi-pin plug at the instrument cluster) 8%
C: A defective dash gauge 45% 
D: Other 2%

DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv 
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:36 AM
  Subject: [DML] temp gauge problem


  hey all,

  i have a problem with my engine temp gauge - in that it doesn't work!
  i have posted before about the problem, and here is the latest on the 
  situation - i've done everything that everyone has suggested -

  anyway, my temp gauge is stuck at the first tick.  it will not go up or down, 
  and it won't move when you put the key in the ignition. it just says there.  
  i replaced the temp sending unit - no luck.  i tried hitting the dash a 
  little bit, didn't drop down. i used a paperclip to knock the needle down. it 
  went down, but then when i put the key in the ignition, it went right back up 
  to where it was before!!!

  anyone have a good idea on what the problem is? the last things to check are, 
  in my knowledge, replacing the gauge (last resort), or a wiring problem.  is 
  there a way to bypass the stock wiring and just put a jumper between two 
  points to prove whether or not i have a wiring problem?

  thanks for any advice, as always!
  Andy

  Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
  1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
  Fargo, ND 58102





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 15:10:08 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Back on track!

You said:

"....I don't think my Frequency Valve is not functioning...I don't hear it buzzing while the engine is idling or when I rev the engine up...could this be what's causing my backfiring problem?"


 The engine will not provide satisfactory performance throughout its entire range if the frequency valve (acceleration enrichment circuit) is not functioning.

DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv 
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 11:12 PM
  Subject: [DML] Back on track!



  Anyway here's the deal: I can start my engine with no problems but it 
  does have a slight back firing problem in the high RPM's. I know it 
  can be anything causing it but here's what's happening....I don't 
  think my Frequency Valve is not functioning...I don't hear it buzzing 
  while the engine is idling or when I rev the engine up...could this 
  be what's causing my backfiring problem? Also...when I connect a 
  DWELL meter to the diagnostic plug (to the same circuit that's for 
  the Frequency Valve) I don't get any readings (as one website 
  describes and a few Bosch K-Jet repair manuals say)...could I have a 
  faulty computer?? Also another strange thing...I let my engine idle 
  for a few minutes today....when I went to turn the ignition off the 
  engine was still running after I turned the key to the off position 
  and removed the key. I thought maybe there was something wrong with 
  the ignition switch so I unplugged it....engine was still running. I 
  next removed the RPM relay knowing that it would stop the fuel pump 
  and kill the engine...that stopped the engine. This was the first 
  time this had ever happened. 

  Thanks,

  Steve







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 14:17:18 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Terminology

Sacha,

You asked:

are "wheel covers" what we used to call "hub caps"?

No. Hub caps are covers that only cover the lug nut area, these are usually found on panel delivery trucks and were also popular on low end cars of the 50's and 60's. Wheel covers are exactly as they are worded, they cover the entire wheel.  

DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv 
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Sacha Prins 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:08 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: Terminology


  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Farrar <smeghead79_at_dml_h...> wrote:
  > Are "rims" the same as "wheels"?

  A rim is the round metal thing that holds the tyre.

  > For that matter, are "wheel covers" what we used to call "hub caps"?

  I guess so.


  Sacha



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 15:23:46 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: PRV 6

The most common application of the DeLorean air filter is in the 1979-1983 Volvo 260 series GLE models. If you can't find the correct number under this listing it probably doesn't exist.
  
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv 
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: jimbo0946_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 9:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [DML] PRV 6


  I was looking up info about K&N filters for the DeLorean, but they do not make anything for it.  I was wondering, could we order an air filter or an intake system for one of the other cars with the PVR engine?  Or does the fact that our engine is in the back make a difference?  If we could, that would be a cheap easy way to add some horses.

  JimmyC
  VIN#15880






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 20:38:40 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Back on track! (update)

Well thanks to Nick Pittelo (sp?) he helped me track down why my 
frequency valve was not working....there was a ground connection that 
was not connected. After bolting it down to a good ground source it 
started to buzz away! The ground connection is the single black wire 
that comes out of the engine harness approximatley midway in the 
engine compartment (behind the fuel distributor area) It has a Lug 
crimped on the end of it for a bolt with some red tubing extending 
out from the lug...it also has a single male/female connector near 
the lug so that you can disconnect the ground for the Frequency 
Valve?...I guess for disconeccting it quickly for some reason?

I still have a slight backfiring froblem in the high RPMs when I rev 
the engine and occasianally in the lows. Could the Warm Up Regulator 
be causing this? I opened it up and the wires were fried in it but 
the resistor inside it (wrapped around the bi-metal strip) was good. 
I tried re-wiring it with some High Heat Teflon coated wiring to see 
if it would work. I'm still working on that problem and will keep you 
guys updated in case anyone else runs into the same problem. I have 
to run more tests on the Warm Up Regulator.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> You said:
> 
> "....I don't think my Frequency Valve is not functioning...I don't 
hear it buzzing while the engine is idling or when I rev the engine 
up...could this be what's causing my backfiring problem?"
> 
> 
>  The engine will not provide satisfactory performance throughout 
its entire range if the frequency valve (acceleration enrichment 
circuit) is not functioning.
> 
> DMC Joe
> www.dmc.tv 
> "We're here to help you"
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> 
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: srubano_at_dml_o... 
>   To: dmcnews_at_dml_y... 
>   Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 11:12 PM
>   Subject: [DML] Back on track!
> 
> 
> 
>   Anyway here's the deal: I can start my engine with no problems 
but it 
>   does have a slight back firing problem in the high RPM's. I know 
it 
>   can be anything causing it but here's what's happening....I don't 
>   think my Frequency Valve is not functioning...I don't hear it 
buzzing 
>   while the engine is idling or when I rev the engine up...could 
this 
>   be what's causing my backfiring problem? Also...when I connect a 
>   DWELL meter to the diagnostic plug (to the same circuit that's 
for 
>   the Frequency Valve) I don't get any readings (as one website 
>   describes and a few Bosch K-Jet repair manuals say)...could I 
have a 
>   faulty computer?? Also another strange thing...I let my engine 
idle 
>   for a few minutes today....when I went to turn the ignition off 
the 
>   engine was still running after I turned the key to the off 
position 
>   and removed the key. I thought maybe there was something wrong 
with 
>   the ignition switch so I unplugged it....engine was still 
running. I 
>   next removed the RPM relay knowing that it would stop the fuel 
pump 
>   and kill the engine...that stopped the engine. This was the first 
>   time this had ever happened. 
> 
>   Thanks,
> 
>   Steve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 20:54:36 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump relay

The only relay that I know of that controls the fuel pump is the RPM 
realy. It's not the size or shape of a regular relay either. It has a 
blue cover and it is mounted on the underside of the fuse panel metal 
bracket...it's held in by a clip that you can wiggle off.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., scottymckenzie_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> I've been having trouble starting up and it seems to be a bad relay.
> The problem is that the fuel pump doesn't do it's thing when the
> ignition is on before cranking, and I've got it to work before by
> tapping on some of the relays in the fuse box, but i'm not sure
> which one it is that needs to be fixed, anyone have an idea?
> thanks




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:44:40 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: 16" & 17" wheel discussion

Sacha,
I agree! Wheel spacers are not the best way to go. But if they are small and 
allow enough bite on the threads of the studs (7 full turns of the wheel 
nut), they are fine. I have very small spacers on the front, so the 
difference is minimal. I have rather large wheel "adaptors" on the rear, 
which works even better than stock in my opinion. The adaptors I have in the 
rear have 4 holes where the adaptor mounts to the car, and then it has 4 new 
studs in the adaptor that the wheel mounts to. Those studs are set in 
between each hole. This is how the pro's do it. They were quite costly, but 
well worth it. When I had the rear adaptors made, I had them make them a 
little bit thicker so I could remove the factory rear spacer. Now the 
adaptor sits more on the hub making it more hubcentric than before. So it's 
a more solid fit. Getting blank wheels to match up is possible I guess, but 
I think it's gonna be very costly, and you need to find a really good shop 
that knows what they're doing. I felt more comfortable going with already 
made wheels since they have been tested already and deemed safe. Also, if I 
ever damage one, which I did on a curb already, I can just call up and order 
a new one. No problems with replacing rims here!

---Dan



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
>Sacha,
>
>Talk to Dan (DanRC30, on this list) he had replaced his rims with
>aftermarket ones. He custom made some spacers to fit behind the rims
>so that they fit perfectly on the car.

Will do, thanks.

I went to the rim-shop today to try to measure up the rims and to our
surprise there was a lot of info 'printed' on the inside of the
standard rim (even including production day). Hopefully this will make
it easier for them to find suitable rims.

We also talked about the spacers to make rims fit but they weren't too
enthousiastic about that. It is better (according to them) to make the
rim fit by adjusting the rim itself.

We'll see.

Sacha



_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 20:58:22 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel pump relay

Scotty, I have repaired several RPM relay's that have come apart in the unit 
or contacts just need cleaning. You can see it on the web site and see the 
location under Talk & View relay compartment.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/electrical.shtml



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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 01:43:13 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: What year is my car.

The original bill of sale states that my car is year 1982. The plate 
on the drivers side says it was made Dec. 81, and it is vin#10779. 
What year is it really.




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 21:46:44 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: fan troubles

Hello,  
    When my fans come on they stay on for a Long time and rarely turn off.  
They turn on exactly on the line below the 220 mark.  Both of my cooling fans 
are rebuilt and work great and are spinning the correct way, etc., etc.  
Today I let the car idle for 10 mins until the fans came on and then got on 
the highway and traveled at 60 MPH for about 7 minutes and the fans never 
shut off until I got home and stopped in the drive way.  What is up with 
that?  They turn off once I stop....hmmmm.  I continued to let it idle and 
they came back on and the fans ran for about 5 minutes and then shut off 
again.  It is only about 65 degrees right now.  How long should the fans run 
before they shut off again?  I thought the fans should not come on if you are 
going over 50 especially when it is only 65 degrees. Keep in mind that my AC 
is NEVER on because it doesn't work.  If I continue to drive fast they will 
shut off and then come on for a minute every now and then for no apparent 
reason.
    I have the fan fail fix installed so the "fan fail" light illuminates 
when the fans come on I just installed a new DMC Houston otterstat so I know 
something else must be wrong.  When I touch the coolant pipe coming out of 
the passenger side bottom of the radiator it is MUCH cooler than the other 
side so the radiator is doing its job well.  When you get out of the car you 
can feel the warm air being blown from the cooling fans.  What could be my 
problem? I have an overheat protector/bleeder installed along with the fan 
fix from Mr. Hervey.  The car only has 17k miles and the water pump doesn't 
appear to have any signs of dieing.
      I recently drained/flushed the system and added 50/50 premix back in so 
the coolant is mixed correctly.  Someone said that maybe my timing is off and 
causing the engine to get a little hotter than usual but I don't think that 
could be it as the engine seems to run quite nicely.  I also have the Bosch 
platinum 4 prong plugs installed but I don't think that would do it.  I hope 
I gave a detailed enough description.  It seems as my engine is just a 
running a touch hotter than it should or there is a failure somewhere in the 
circuit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Its not a big deal but it is going to 
drive me crazy until I figure it out.

Thank You
David



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 22:02:52 EDT
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: PRV 6

Hi DMC Joe,

The Volvo air filter that fits a DeLorean is Volvo P/N 269308-3.
Also there is a NAPA filter that is the cross referenced as the same.  That 
number is
P/N 6112.  Hope that this is of some help.

"I'm here to watch"

Frank
VIN:  16509






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 21:22:28 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: fan troubles

I'm not sure why you think this is a problem.  It sounds to
me like your cooling system is working just like it is supposed
to.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 8:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] fan troubles


Hello,
    When my fans come on they stay on for a Long time and rarely turn off.
They turn on exactly on the line below the 220 mark.  Both of my cooling
fans
are rebuilt and work great and are spinning the correct way, etc., etc.
Today I let the car idle for 10 mins until the fans came on and then got on
the highway and traveled at 60 MPH for about 7 minutes and the fans never
shut off until I got home and stopped in the drive way.  What is up with
that?




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