From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 672
Date: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:38 AM

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There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Sunstar Gold/BTTF (Was Re: Official word on Sunstar Model)
From: "James" <>

2. RE: More on Pantera gullwing...
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <>

3. RE: AC cycling
From: "Mike Griese" <>

4. Re: BMW Eurofest
From: "William F. Lane" <>

5. Grinding
From: "Payne" <>

6. Two! Two! Two questions in one!
From: Travis Goodwin <>

7. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: "Walter" <>

8. Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!

9. Re: low voltage, battery light on

10. Happy Birthday DML - and Houston was a blast!
From: "Mr. Copies Print Centres" <>

11. Re: Sunstar Gold/BTTF (Was Re: Official word on Sunstar Model)
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <>

12. Red DeLorean on Ebay.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

13. Small oil leak...

14. Re: delayed acceleration problem

15. "Machined" Wheels
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>

16. Brushed stainless finish
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 03:18:49 -0000
From: "James" <>
Subject: Sunstar Gold/BTTF (Was Re: Official word on Sunstar Model)

They are waiting to see how the response is to the "stainless" 
one before they commit to the gold cars. Earlier they had 
discussed with us who our contacts were at Universal for the 
BTTF model, but they have not said anything about it and I have 
not asked.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Joshua Porter <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Are they going to make any Gold or BTTF DeLorean
> models?
>           Josh <JoshP1986_at_dml_y...>


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 22:23:05 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <>
Subject: RE: More on Pantera gullwing...

I've invited the local Pantera groups to come to the West Coast
DeLorean/Bricklin Car Show next month in the San Francisco Bay Area, so
we'll see if any of them show up. I'm also looking for Subaru SVX owners
because they share many things in common with the DeLorean. I'll have my SVX
there along with my DeLorean. 

The show is only 5 weeks away! If you can't download the registration form
from the website, send me your address and I'll mail you one.

Don't miss The 2001 DeLorean/Bricklin West Coast Celebration!!
September 20-23, San Ramon, California
Ken Montgomery, President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club     (916) 944-3252

> -----Original Message-----
> From: []
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2001 10:21 AM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] More on Pantera gullwing...
> Maybe there have been Pantera gullwings made...this link 
> shows one, I think.

The picture shows a Bricklin in the background (see the logo on its side).
> We hear a lot about Bricklins and DeLoreans getting together, 
> but why not some Panteras as well?
> Richard


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 22:20:08 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <>
Subject: RE: AC cycling

David - Have the pressure checked again - you may have a
slight leak.


-----Original Message-----
From: []
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 8:43 PM
Subject: [DML] AC cycling

Hi List,
    I finally got my AC to stop dripping by blowing out the drain hose with
an air compressor.  I put my hand into the evaporator it was very clean;
hopefully that problem doesn't come back.
    When I drive the Car the AC cycles on/off ever 5 seconds and then stays
on and doesn't cycle when I am in idle.  The AC works great but it is just
kind of annoying to have it cycle that much.


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 00:22:20 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <>
Subject: Re: BMW Eurofest

There will probably be three of us from Winston-Salem, NC going.  We were there
last year and it's quite a show!

Bill Lane

Travis Goodwin wrote:

> I was at a cruise-in this weekend and got a heads up on a European car show
> at the BMW plant in October near my home town (Greenville, SC). He told me
> that DeLoreans are usually well represented (I plan to bring mine). Anyone
> have plans to attend? Sounds pretty cool. Here's the link:
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 21:40:17 -0700
From: "Payne" <>
Subject: Grinding

I'm still having my unusual grinding problem in fourth gear, so I think I
may have to pay a transmission shop to tear it open and find out what's
wrong.  Even though it doesn't act like a worn synchro, I may have it
replaced anyway since I don't want to have the tranny torn apart twice if it
is the problem.  However I wasn't able to find the fourth gear synchro in
the parts catalog.  Is it still available?  Also I'm having a problem with
second gear that is most likely the roll pin (so I'm told) because sometimes
it refuses to engage without grinding.  Does anyone have the part number for
this or is it just a standard pin found at an auto parts store?

Thanks for all your help.  If anyone has any advice it would be much
appreciated.  The car has only about 61,000 miles so I can't imagine
anything else in the tranny should be too worn.

proud owner of #2975


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 08:49:17 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <>
Subject: Two! Two! Two questions in one!

First. Here's the scoop: I keep forgetting to turn off the AC before I start
the car. So, when I try to start the car with the AC on. I turn it over a
few times and notice what I'm doing, so I stop and wait. The compressor,
cooling fans, and starter drain the battery enough to make it sluggish even
when they are all turned off. What's the largest battery everyone is using?
How many cranking amps should I shoot for?

Second. I need to get me antenna off but he base rotates with it when I try
to take it off (possibly rust on the threads). Can someone point me to what
page the removal procedure is on in the workshop manual? If there isn't one,
can someone give me an idea at how I can get some pliers on the underside of
the antenna base to unscre the stupid thing?


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:12:42 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem

An update on my acceleration problem:
I found corroded electrical connections at the frequency valve and control
pressure regulator.  The frequency valve was still buzzing, but not as loud
as it otherwise could.  I used steel wool and a small knife to scrape the
contacts clean and then blew it out with shop air.  I also had to cut off &
replace the ends of the wiring loom.

This has cured the worst of the problem, but I am still getting (get this)
an occasional cold acceleration problem.  Sometimes I start the car from
cold and I have to run it without the a/c until it warms up for a minute.
But most of the time it starts & runs fine cold.  I suppose this is most
likely a bad electrical connection somewhere concerning the Lambda ECU.  I
cleaned up the ground near the frequency valve.  From the looks of it, the
designers were asking for trouble there.  Are there other places I should
start looking?  You guys can be so helpful.  I don't think I ever would have
found that ground by the FV without taking the car apart.

Anyone have any other suggestions on what else to look for?

I packed the electrical connections with dielectric grease.  This stuff is
NAPA Echlin part # ML3 silicone compound (contains Dimethylpolysiloxane).
Around $13 for a 1 oz tube.  It is specified for 'secondary ignition' wires.
I suppose that means spark plug wires?  It insulates at high voltages &
temperatures, is very thick and doesn't seem to seep or run.  Is this the
right thing to use?  It makes a lot more sense than using that gray
anti-corrosive paste meant for aluminum wiring or just regular grease or
WD40.  Comments anyone?  Those Bosch connectors need something to keep the
weather out of them.  The rubber gaskets alone are not enough.

Walt    Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
> I'm having a weird acceleration problem that I need some help diagnosing.
> When I accelerate, the engine hesitates for 2 or 3 seconds before it
> starts to develop horsepower.


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:50:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!

Travis, I can't help you with the antenna. But I can tell you about the 
Battery situation. I have had a Champion from Sams club in my car 1000CCA , 
but it's maby
and over kill. A good brand of your choise and comfort 850 cca would be very 
good. If your battery is good now, no matter what the CCA,  the alternator 
may be your problem.  Even a 650 or 550 would crank the car, but just not as 
long. Look at my web site if you may want to consider an alternator. 
John hervey


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 15:15:26 -0000
Subject: Re: low voltage, battery light on

Before condemming the alternater or voltage regulater (it's inside the 
alternater) MAKE SURE that all of your grounds are clean and tight. 
Pay particular attention to the ground cable from the battery and the 
ground point on the frame inside the front left wheel to the frame. A 
bad connection can cause all kinds of weird problems and if you start 
replacing parts before fixing the ground connection you will be 
wasting a lot of money and time and getting frustrated. It only takes 
a few minuets and doesn't cost anything (assuming the cables are 
there!) Hot weather doesn't affect the voltage regulater, they have 
temperature compensating circutry in them, but it does affect the 
output of the alternater. As electrical components (wiring and 
alternater) get hot they carry less current. Also the belt will tend 
to slip if loose in the heat (it streches a little). At the same time 
the electrical system is under the most stress, ie: heat and high 
demand from the engine, cooling system and A/C, the cooling system is 
also under high demands and of course if it's dark you also have the 
headlights going. This is the scenario that the Ducy couldn't keep up 
with. It's hard to imagine but under high demands a car can use more 
electric than a small house! Upwards of 100 amps! Also consider when 
starting the motor the momentary draw is over 300 amps! This is why 
all connections MUST be clean and tight. Some of the branch circuits 
(like the cooling fans) draw 30 amps continuosly. The wiring is only 
rated for 30 amps but not continuosly! This is why you need to allow 
the fans to cycle either on the otterstadt or the low pressure A/C 
switch. It gives the circuit a chance to cool and not heat up to max. 
It also points out why it is important to check all of the connections 
in the fuse/relay panel. When you go out for a drive in the heat put 
your hand behind the passenger seat and feel the heat from the fuse 
panel. Some owners leave the carpet and cover off to help keep it 
cool. It becomes a vicious cycle because the hotter it gets the higher 
the resistance, the higher the resistance the hotter it gets. Some 
cars have actually caught fire from this. I personally have seen a fan 
fail bypass burn and almost set the car on fire. Because it is a 
hidden area may people never even look at the fuses.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Andy, Sounds like the regulator in the alternator is going out or 
has gone 
> out. This hot weather all over the country is playing havoc on them. 
> has changed their specifications two or three times in the last 
couple of 
> years and even though they try to do better, sometimes it's not 
quite as good 
> in all applications. They try to make one device fit as many 
applications as 
> possible.  We are always looking for the better regulator. I'm am 
going to 
> start adding a diode in the light wire to try to stop some potential 
> back problems.
> John Hervey


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 13:51:34 -0400
From: "Mr. Copies Print Centres" <>
Subject: Happy Birthday DML - and Houston was a blast!

Hi Guys!

I didn't want the day to pass without mentioning that it was 7 years ago today that the DML signed on.  August 15th, 1995.  The DML was singularly responsible for helping me make the decision to purchase a Delorean in 99.  I can't thank James enough for starting such a great forum.  

..and I didn't see anyone mention it...but in case you're wondering, the DMC Houston show on the weekend was FANTASTIC.   Great turnout, a ton of fun and a first class event from start to finish.
VIN #17089
Windsor, Ontario

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 14:31:24 -0600
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <>
Subject: Re: Sunstar Gold/BTTF (Was Re: Official word on Sunstar Model)

I spoke with a fella at Sunstar a few weeks ago.  The BTTF DeLorean is 
scheduled for November.  They were at Universal Studios a few months back, 
taking photos of the car for accurate detailing.  It will be the same 
mold/casting DMC-12 as the stainless Sun Star car, but with BTTF time travel 
accessories included, plus wheels that flip for easy hover conversion.


>From: "James" <>
>Subject: [DML] Sunstar Gold/BTTF (Was Re: Official word on Sunstar Model)
>Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 03:18:49 -0000
>They are waiting to see how the response is to the "stainless"
>one before they commit to the gold cars. Earlier they had
>discussed with us who our contacts were at Universal for the
>BTTF model, but they have not said anything about it and I have
>not asked.
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Joshua Porter <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Are they going to make any Gold or BTTF DeLorean
> > models?
> >           Josh <JoshP1986_at_dml_y...>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:18:56 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: Red DeLorean on Ebay.

There is a DeLorean on Ebay:

I looked at this car a few weeks back.  It was in a parking lot late at
night (at a repair shop named Jerry Noonans), so it was not a good going
over... But it is in the area if anyone is serious about buying it, I
can inspect it for you.

I did call the shop and ask about the car.  I was told it is not
running, and the owner was looking to sell it for 10K.  My quick
inspection, and the fact that it does not run, let me to believe that
10K was too much for it...  Not that I am in the market for another



Message: 13
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 13:14:00 EDT
Subject: Small oil leak...

Okay, I've been dreading asking about this, fearing the response I might get, but I figure I better do so sooner than later.  I have been noticing a small oil leak that apparently occurs all the time, whether or not the car has been running.  It is not a whole lot so it has not been scaring me, but I figure I better find out what is going on.  It seems to run in a straight "north-south" line right down the middle of the engine.  

So how bad is my problem here?  The engine does have 140k miles on it, but I hope it's not ready to be scrapped.  Any ideas?

Thank you much,



Message: 14
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 14:33:34 EDT
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem

Walt, I'm sure you know this but I just thought I would say it any way. The 
02 sensor monitors the exhaust and will enrich or lean the system by sending 
the voltage to the Lambda ECU system then the FV. If the FV isn't getting the 
signal, then you were most likley running rich which it is supposed to do. 
The louder it gets the harder it 's working to put more pressure on the lower 
chamber of the fuel dist to lean the gas. With you finding a bad connector, 
the system may have been running rich and has contimanted the 02 and needs to 
be replaced. Also, the CPR as you know puts an opposing pressure on the 
control plunger to keep it from chattering or going up and down to lean or 
enrich the system. My first thing then would be to adjust the air flow meter 
to compenstae for the 02 now being contaminated and when you put a new one 
in, the readjust back to the way it should be.


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 19:11:03 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>
Subject: "Machined" Wheels

Hello everyone,

With all of this talk about machined wheels, chromed wheels, 
powdercoating and what so ever I was wondering...

The picture of the Machined Wheels on a DeLorean (with cat
underneath) in the Files-section looks absolutely fabulous!
Can anyone tell me what this "machining" really is?
My father has a blasting-company and is currently building 
a glass bead blasting installation, so I was wondering how
our wheels would come out if I had them bead blasted 
and clearcoated. 

Would this be comparable, or am I looking at a completely different 
process here? As I understand this machining is done at DMC Houston, 
but since I live in the Netherlands I'm not easily pushed into
shipping them my wheels, having them done and getting them shipped 
back. The cost would be quite high, but even worse; I wouldn't be
able to drive my D for the time it takes to have them done plus 
shipped TWICE! That would easily add up to several weeks and I don't 
know if I can survive without driving it for that long  ;-)

Please clear this up for me.
Thanks in advance,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:40:43 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>
Subject: Brushed stainless finish

I had my local garage remove a dent in my passenger side door (roof)
They only had to heat the spot, pound a little and polish somewhat. It's almost as good as new.

My question now is: How do I get the original finish back? Its polished right at the spot, I have tried using the scotchbrite with the grain, but to no help. I mean, how long are you supposed to use the scotchbrite before seeing any result?

I'm tempted to try and scuff the spot against the grain, and then with the grain again. Will that help?

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland

VIN # 06759


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