From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 673
Date: Friday, August 17, 2001 2:17 AM

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Re: Small oil leak...
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

3. Re: Small oil leak...
From: beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: "Machined" Wheels
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

5. New Owner
From: dclark_at_dml_3d2u.com

6. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

7. Sunstar Model - Gold Delorean
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

8. Re: Small oil leak...
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

9. Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

10. Re: New Owner
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

11. Re: New Owner
From: Bastiaan Olij <mux_at_dml_wxs.nl>

12. Re: New Owner
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

13. Re: New Owner
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

14. Re: "Machined" Wheels
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

15. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. RE: Happy Birthday DML - and Houston was a blast!
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool_at_dml_home.com>

18. Re: delayed acceleration problem
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Detomaso Pantera ...gullwing?
From: darren.cunningham_at_dml_virgin.net

20. Re: Sunstar Model - Gold Delorean
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

21. Re: Sunstar Model - Gold Delorean
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: New Owner
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Lotsa new ads
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 03:14:38 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

Use #120 grit (or #80 grit if you're brave) with a sanding block and 
very carefuly sand in the direction of the grain. Don't concentrate on 
just one spot, you have to do an area or a whole panel. Use a piece of 
masking tape to guide if needed. After you are satisfied (looking at 
the surface from several angles) then you can finish with a blending 
pad. Use the ones from a Delorean supplier as they are rougher than 
what you can obtain locally. When you are done you will probably go 
from panel to panel all the way around the car to make everything look 
even and "good as new".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Hello,
> I had my local garage remove a dent in my passenger side door (roof)
> They only had to heat the spot, pound a little and polish somewhat. 
It's almost as good as new.
> 
> My question now is: How do I get the original finish back? Its 
polished right at the spot, I have tried using the scotchbrite with 
the grain, but to no help. I mean, how long are you supposed to use 
the scotchbrite before seeing any result?
> 
> I'm tempted to try and scuff the spot against the grain, and then 
with the grain again. Will that help?
> 
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
> 
> VIN # 06759




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 03:26:22 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Small oil leak...

Assuming it is engine oil then the most common sources are 
1) sending unit on left side of engine.
2) bad copper seal on engine drain plug.
3) leaky crankshaft seal at flywheel.
4) bad valve cover gaskets.
Since you think it leaks when it isn't running the only one it can be 
is the drain plug. Do you have to add engine oil? Have you checked the 
 transmission? (I assume it is a 5-speed). What I would do is either 
get the motor steam cleaned or gunk it yourself and watch where the 
oil first starts to appear. Wherever it is sometimes you must follow 
it up and foward as a leak will run down and back so it looks like it 
is in one spot but it really is starting someplace else. Nothing can 
replace getting under the car and putting an eyeball on the problem. 
While you are under there inspect the undercarriage, suspension, 
steering, exhaust, c-v boots, trailing arm bolts, brakes, tires, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> Okay, I've been dreading asking about this, fearing the response I 
might get, but I figure I better do so sooner than later.  I have been 
noticing a small oil leak that apparently occurs all the time, whether 
or not the car has been running.  It is not a whole lot so it has not 
been scaring me, but I figure I better find out what is going on.  It 
seems to run in a straight "north-south" line right down the middle of 
the engine.  
> 
> So how bad is my problem here?  The engine does have 140k miles on 
it, but I hope it's not ready to be scrapped.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thank you much,
> 
> Richard




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:02:44 -0000
From: beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Small oil leak...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> Okay, I've been dreading asking about this, fearing the response I 
might get, but I figure I better do so sooner than later.  I have 
been noticing a small oil leak that apparently occurs all the time, 
whether or not the car has been running.  It is not a whole lot so it 
has not been scaring me, but I figure I better find out what is going 
on.  It seems to run in a straight "north-south" line right down the 
middle of the engine.  
> 
> So how bad is my problem here?  The engine does have 140k miles on 
it, but I hope it's not ready to be scrapped.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thank you much,
> 
> Richard

Dear Richard,
I had the same thing and the problem turned out to be the small brass 
ring that goes on the oil filter was missing, cost about 25 cents to 
fix.

Chuck
Vin#6125




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:40:59 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: "Machined" Wheels

While I have not bead blasted De Lorean wheels I have bead blasted similar
castings and then clear coated the parts.  I do not think you would be very
happy with the results.  The bead blasting tends to accentuate the casting
porosity and the resultant surface is "fresh" but dull.  The clear coat then
just preserves the dull finish.  Silver paint is much more attractive. The
"machined" wheel would have a circumfrential scratch pattern that would
complement the finish on the car and reflect the light nicely.  Anyone with
a large lathe might be willing to give it a go local to you.   Good Luck!

Just an opinion.
Don Ekhoff


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:11 PM
Subject: [DML] "Machined" Wheels


> Hello everyone,
>
> With all of this talk about machined wheels, chromed wheels,
> powdercoating and what so ever I was wondering...
>
> The picture of the Machined Wheels on a DeLorean (with cat
> underneath) in the Files-section looks absolutely fabulous!
> Can anyone tell me what this "machining" really is?
> My father has a blasting-company and is currently building
> a glass bead blasting installation, so I was wondering how
> our wheels would come out if I had them bead blasted
> and clearcoated.
>
> Would this be comparable, or am I looking at a completely different
> process here? As I understand this machining is done at DMC Houston,
> but since I live in the Netherlands I'm not easily pushed into
> shipping them my wheels, having them done and getting them shipped
> back. The cost would be quite high, but even worse; I wouldn't be
> able to drive my D for the time it takes to have them done plus
> shipped TWICE! That would easily add up to several weeks and I don't
> know if I can survive without driving it for that long  ;-)
>
> Please clear this up for me.
> Thanks in advance,
>
> JAN van de Wouw
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
>
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
>
> check out the Delorean-Files at:
> http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
> -----------------------------
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 05:14:05 -0000
From: dclark_at_dml_3d2u.com
Subject: New Owner

Hello List,

Well it finally happened, I purchased my DeLorean on 8-14-2001.  I am 
the proud owner of 4222.

So here is my first new owner question.  I am having trouble with the 
windows.  When I hit the window switch many times nothong happens.  
Once in a while it will work.  I get the same results going up or 
down.  Is there a problem with the switch or is the problem deeper.

Thanks
derric




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 03:30:52 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem

Look at the control pressure regulater as it is critical to idle 
quality during warm-up. Check the wiring connections and the vent hose 
is not blocked or kinked. Some people have posted that it can be 
disasssembled and cleaned and that helped.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> An update on my acceleration problem:
> I found corroded electrical connections at the frequency valve and 
control
> pressure regulator.  The frequency valve was still buzzing, but not 
as loud
> as it otherwise could.  I used steel wool and a small knife to 
scrape the
> contacts clean and then blew it out with shop air.  I also had to 
cut off &
> replace the ends of the wiring loom.
> 
> This has cured the worst of the problem, but I am still getting (get 
this)
> an occasional cold acceleration problem.  Sometimes I start the car 
from
> cold and I have to run it without the a/c until it warms up for a 
minute.
> But most of the time it starts & runs fine cold.  I suppose this is 
most
> likely a bad electrical connection somewhere concerning the Lambda 
ECU.  I
> cleaned up the ground near the frequency valve.  From the looks of 
it, the
> designers were asking for trouble there.  Are there other places I 
should
> start looking?  You guys can be so helpful.  I don't think I ever 
would have
> found that ground by the FV without taking the car apart.
> 
> Anyone have any other suggestions on what else to look for?
> 
> I packed the electrical connections with dielectric grease.  This 
stuff is
> NAPA Echlin part # ML3 silicone compound (contains 
Dimethylpolysiloxane).
> Around $13 for a 1 oz tube.  It is specified for 'secondary 
ignition' wires.
> I suppose that means spark plug wires?  It insulates at high 
voltages &
> temperatures, is very thick and doesn't seem to seep or run.  Is 
this the
> right thing to use?  It makes a lot more sense than using that gray
> anti-corrosive paste meant for aluminum wiring or just regular 
grease or
> WD40.  Comments anyone?  Those Bosch connectors need something to 
keep the
> weather out of them.  The rubber gaskets alone are not enough.
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> <snip>
> > I'm having a weird acceleration problem that I need some help 
diagnosing.
> > When I accelerate, the engine hesitates for 2 or 3 seconds before 
it
> really
> > starts to develop horsepower.
> <snip>




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:10:41 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Sunstar Model - Gold Delorean

Is this a Snap together model?  Or is is a FINE detail, paint it yourself
job?  Hopefully it is a full glue and paint deal.

I spent 3 months airbrushing and detailing my BTTF3 model, and i have
already started to build two BTTF2 models (one to keep...one to sell)
Check them out at:  http://www.abato.net/web/images/dmc/mymodels.htm
I am also building two BTTF models

I had a lot of fun doing them, and look forward to adding a plain stock
Delorean to my shelf!  I was thinking of buying 2-3 of them, and making one
with the black strip down the side, and another one gold (again...comes down
to how much assembly the purchaser does!)

-----Original Message-----
From: James Espey [mailto:james_at_dml_usadmc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 3:30 PM
To: dmcnews
Subject: [DML] Official word on Sunstar Model


Sunstar Toys has licensed the DMC logo from DeLorean Motor Company (Houston)
for use on their models and packaging, making this model an official
DeLorean Motor Company licensed product. As part of our agreement with them,
we have been in close contact with them as the model gets closer to
shipment.

As you may have heard, DeLorean Motor Company had one of the two
pre-production models on display at our open house last weekend. Our contact
at Sunstar says that the factory is planning to have models in the U.S. on
September 15th, but he says they are always 2-4 weeks behind and expect
early to mid-October to be more likely. As the licensor of the logo to
Sunstar, DeLorean Motor Company will be the first to receive models and
therefore the first to ship.

More photos and ordering information can be found on our website at:

http://www.delorean.com/models.asp

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 02:50:26 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Small oil leak...

Does it seem to be coming from inbetween the transmission and engine?
If so then your Main rear seal (behind the flywheel/flexplate) may
need replacing.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> Okay, I've been dreading asking about this, fearing the response I
might get, but I figure I better do so sooner than later.  I have been
noticing a small oil leak that apparently occurs all the time, whether
or not the car has been running.  It is not a whole lot so it has not
been scaring me, but I figure I better find out what is going on.  It
seems to run in a straight "north-south" line right down the middle of
the engine.  
> 
> So how bad is my problem here?  The engine does have 140k miles on
it, but I hope it's not ready to be scrapped.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thank you much,
> 
> Richard




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:53:10 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!

I can tell you that the battery is less than 2 months old. The car came off
the truck with a dead battery, so I had Advance just replace it with an
identical, so I am unsure of the CCAs. I jump in th car on Fridays (I like
to drive on weekends) and the car turns over no problem. Saturdays I may
crank it 4 or 5 times and it gets harder each time. 

Discussing it out loud like this makes me think the alternator may have
problems. I also heard a squealing belt when I started the other day. Would
a loose alternator belt cause poor recharging? 

As for the loose antenna base, I've found this is a semi-common problem. If
I can devise a simple solution I will post it. Liquid Wrench here I come!

> Message: 8
>    Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:50:27 EDT
>    From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
> Subject: Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!
> 
> Travis, I can't help you with the antenna. But I can tell you 
> about the 
> Battery situation. I have had a Champion from Sams club in my 
> car 1000CCA , 
> but it's maby
> and over kill. A good brand of your choise and comfort 850 
> cca would be very 
> good. If your battery is good now, no matter what the CCA,  
> the alternator 
> may be your problem.  Even a 650 or 550 would crank the car, 
> but just not as 
> long. Look at my web site if you may want to consider an alternator. 
> John hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/electrical.shtml
> 
>> 



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:29:40 -0000
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: New Owner

Derric

This is a problem with the switch.  The design leads
to an electircal arc between the contacts whenever
the switch is used.  Over time, this arcing deposits
a layer of carbon on the switch contacts, preventing
them from working properly.  If you are handy with 
small tools, you can disassemble the switches, clean
and lubricate the contacts and reassemble them.  If not,
you can someone else rebuild them for you or try to 
find replacements.

Mike

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dclark_at_dml_3... wrote:
> Hello List,
> 
> Well it finally happened, I purchased my DeLorean on 8-14-2001.  I 
am 
> the proud owner of 4222.
> 
> So here is my first new owner question.  I am having trouble with 
the 
> windows.  When I hit the window switch many times nothong happens.  
> Once in a while it will work.  I get the same results going up or 
> down.  Is there a problem with the switch or is the problem deeper.
> 
> Thanks
> derric




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:33:36 +0200
From: Bastiaan Olij <mux_at_dml_wxs.nl>
Subject: Re: New Owner

At Thursday, 16 August 2001, you wrote:

Hi Derric, 

Okay there are probably alot of things that could cause this, this 
is what caused one of my windows to malfunction (sorry if I miss 
some english words here and there, I'm dutch:-).

After having my window brake down I removed the electric motor and 
found that one of the contacts on the rotor kept getting stuck and 
thus not making contact. Dirt had gotton into the mechanism. There 
is a little spring that pushes the contact against the electric rotor.
After cleaning it up and cleaning the contacts, the motor works 
fine without trouble.

I do warn you though, look at other solutions before trying this.
It takes alot of work getting the door apart and removing the motor.
At the end of my excersize my hands where cut to pieces bij the 
sharp edges of the stainless steel:-)

P.S. working on a page with photo's of how I took apart the door 
and repaired the electic engine. Not sure when it will be online 
but might be useful:-)

Greetings,

Bastiaan Olij
Vin #4597

>Hello List,
>
>Well it finally happened, I purchased my DeLorean on 8-14-2001.  I am 
>the proud owner of 4222.
>
>So here is my first new owner question.  I am having trouble with the 
>windows.  When I hit the window switch many times nothong happens.  
>Once in a while it will work.  I get the same results going up or 
>down.  Is there a problem with the switch or is the problem deeper.
>
>Thanks
>derric
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:52:10 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: New Owner

dclark_at_dml_3d2u.com wrote:

> I am having trouble with the
> windows.  When I hit the window switch many times nothong happens.
> Once in a while it will work.  I get the same results going up or
> down.  Is there a problem with the switch or is the problem deeper.

Absolutely try cleaning out the switch first!  Use WD-40, Radio Shack contact
cleaner, ANYTHING to try to get your contacts as clean as possible.  I bet
that helps a lot.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:17:49 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: New Owner

get a new switch or have the old one refurbished since the new ones fit a
little differently.  That's all

Joseph vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <dclark_at_dml_3d2u.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:14 AM
Subject: [DML] New Owner


> Hello List,
>
> Well it finally happened, I purchased my DeLorean on 8-14-2001.  I am
> the proud owner of 4222.
>
> So here is my first new owner question.  I am having trouble with the
> windows.  When I hit the window switch many times nothong happens.
> Once in a while it will work.  I get the same results going up or
> down.  Is there a problem with the switch or is the problem deeper.
>
> Thanks
> derric
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:23:03 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: "Machined" Wheels

Jan,

What I understand concerning 'machined' wheels is that first the original
paint stripped off.  I suppose this could be done by sandblasting.  (Before
rims are powdercoated they are sandblasted first.)  But for machine
polishing, I think that sandblasting might impart a texture that would be
hard to polish out.  If it is a polished surface that you want, I think you
would be safer with chemical stripping.

I can't quote Warren verbatim, but what I understood of the process is that
first they strip the paint off, then put the rim on a lathe (to spin it) and
then run an orbital polisher over it while it is spinning.  Sand blasting or
bead blasting would probably give a very different look which may or may not
be bad.  Unless you want to try for a highly polished surface, you might as
well bead blast the paint off and see how it looks.  If you don't like it,
you could always have them powder coated after that.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:47:24 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem

David,

Thanks for the tips.  I'm wondering if it could be worth while to
permanently install a small fuel pressure gauge at the CPR.  (Such a thing
could diagnose several problems such as bad CPR or a hot start/no start
problem.)  Since I experience the problem only intermittently now, I could
use up a dozen or more copper seals installing/uninstalling my large fuel
pressure gauge from NAPA before the symptoms might recur.  I hate to put
unnecessary wear & tear on the fuel line connections.  Also, sounds like a
bad idea to leave the NAPA gauge connected since the long hoses could get in
the way of something.

If the problem is in the control pressure regulator, then how can it be in
the wiring?  As I understand it, the wire is there only to heat up a
bi-metal strip inside the regulator.  I assume it would take at least a few
minutes for the electrics to have any effect on fuel pressure.  And by then
the engine would be warm enough that the symptoms would go away.

I never thought about checking the vent hose.  Wasps around here love to lay
eggs in holes like that and pack them with mud.

Walt    Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
<snip>
> Look at the control pressure regulater as it is critical to idle
> quality during warm-up. Check the wiring connections and the vent hose
> is not blocked or kinked.
<snip>




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:23:06 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

Stian,

I discussed this with one of the foremost guru's of DeLorean fame, Rob
Grady.  For my situation, he suggested starting out with 80 grit sand paper
and finishing up with a Scotch-brite pad.  I did this with excellent
results.  Rob also said that anything finer than 80 grit is more apt to
polish rather than texture.

From my trial & error, I have learned the following:  The trick is to NOT
cross the grain at all -- ever.  Use long straight lines following the
grain.  It is better to do one narrow band running the length of the panel
rather than try to touch up just one small spot.  When you are done, the
finished area will be brighter than the rest, but soon it will re-oxidize to
match everything else.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:55:15 -0500
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: RE: Happy Birthday DML - and Houston was a blast!

Not to make this another "me too" posting, but I agree. The Houston get
together was a blast from start to finish. It was nice to finally put all
the faces together with the names. This was only the second gathering I have
been to, the first being when I was in high school back in 1988. I'm still
working on getting a Delorean and hopefully, within the next six months,
I'll be able to make it happen. I plan on seeing everyone again next year at
the Memphis meet.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mr. Copies Print Centres [mailto:mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Happy Birthday DML - and Houston was a blast!


Hi Guys!

I didn't want the day to pass without mentioning that it was 7 years ago
today that the DML signed on.  August 15th, 1995.  The DML was singularly
responsible for helping me make the decision to purchase a Delorean in 99.
I can't thank James enough for starting such a great forum.

..and I didn't see anyone mention it...but in case you're wondering, the DMC
Houston show on the weekend was FANTASTIC.   Great turnout, a ton of fun and
a first class event from start to finish.

mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com
VIN #17089
Windsor, Ontario

www.mydelorean.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:22:54 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: delayed acceleration problem

John,

Remember that the problem I am having now is only while the engine is cold
and only during the first two minutes or so of operation.

Now for some theory: When the engine is cold, a coolant temperature sensor
tells the Lambda ECU to ignore readings from the O2 sensor until it has had
time to warm up.  Until warm, the ECU sends a fixed duty-cycle signal to the
FV.

So even if my O2 sensor were bad or contaminated or even missing, it
wouldn't matter during warm-up.  Now perhaps maybe something involved with
my coolant temperature sensor is malfunctioning causing my Lambda ECU to
look at the O2 sensor before it has warmed up?  Having a stuck coolant
temperature switch or a bad electrical connection associated with it could
cause my symptoms.... maybe?  Any ideas?

You say:
> If the FV isn't getting the
> signal, then you were most likely running rich which it is supposed to do.

I'm not so sure about this.  I think you have the logic backwards.  I
thought that a closed FV causes a lean condition.  Go to page D:04:08 of the
Worship Manual (huh, excuse me, I mean the Workshop manual) and let me know
what you think.

Several months ago before I even knew I had a frequency valve, I drove the
car a lot without the valve buzzing at all.  The cause turned out to be a
bad Lambda relay.  Could this cause the O2 sensor to get contaminated?  Once
contaminated is the damage irreversible?  Or does plenty of normal driving
burn it clean?

You say:
> The louder it gets the harder it 's working to put more pressure on the
lower
> chamber of the fuel dist to lean the gas.

I have heard frequency valves that were considerably louder on some
DeLoreans and more quiet on others.  But I'm not so sure that the valve gets
louder when it works harder.  More theory: If I understand it correctly, the
amplitude (signal strength) to the FV does not ever change.  What does
change is the duty cycle of the signal according to what the Lambda ECU
determines.  If there is ever any audible changes from the FV, they should
be one of pitch and not volume.  Comments anyone?

You say:
> My first thing then would be to adjust the air flow meter
> to compenstae for the 02 now being contaminated and when you put a new one
> in, the readjust back to the way it should be.

I have a new O2 sensor on hand, and my odometer has 16K miles on it.  Should
I replace the sensor now or wait until I get 30K miles on it or more?  I
suppose I need an exhaust gas analyzer to properly adjust the air flow
meter.  No?

DeLoreans are always cool even if they don't run right.  :)

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 19:47:04 -0000
From: darren.cunningham_at_dml_virgin.net
Subject: Re: Detomaso Pantera ...gullwing?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:

> The original DeTomaso Mangusta had a Gullwing door engine 
compartment 
> openings. 
> Mike

I've just uploaded a picture of this at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/detomasogullwing.jpg

Darren




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:17:57 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Sunstar Model - Gold Delorean

Kevin Abato wrote:

> Is this a Snap together model?  Or is is a FINE detail, paint it yourself
> job?  Hopefully it is a full glue and paint deal.

This is a fully assembled metal model, like other Sunstar models you might see
at various toy stores.  The prototype on display at Houston was really well
proportioned.  If they make a few tweeks in the production model it will be a
real treasure for any automobile enthusiast.

I plan to order a bunch.

- Mike Substelny




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:46:38 -0600
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar Model - Gold Delorean

This is not a snap together nor a glue together model kit.  It is a diecast 
car, already built and completed.

Randy


>Is this a Snap together model?  Or is is a FINE detail, paint it yourself
>job?  Hopefully it is a full glue and paint deal.
>
>I spent 3 months airbrushing and detailing my BTTF3 model, and i have
>already started to build two BTTF2 models (one to keep...one to sell)
>Check them out at:  http://www.abato.net/web/images/dmc/mymodels.htm
>I am also building two BTTF models
>
>I had a lot of fun doing them, and look forward to adding a plain stock
>Delorean to my shelf!  I was thinking of buying 2-3 of them, and making one
>with the black strip down the side, and another one gold (again...comes 
>down
>to how much assembly the purchaser does!)

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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:23:12 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: New Owner

Check the connector below the switch before you take the switch apart.  
My switch is fine, but I still have problems with the switch connector
contacts.
The switch is a friction fit, it should come right out.  


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dclark_at_dml_3d2u.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:14 AM
> Subject: [DML] New Owner
> 
> 
> > Hello List,
> >
> > Well it finally happened, I purchased my DeLorean on 8-14-2001.  I 
> am
> > the proud owner of 4222.
> >
> > So here is my first new owner question.  I am having trouble with 
> the
> > windows.  When I hit the window switch many times nothong happens.
> > Once in a while it will work.  I get the same results going up or
> > down.  Is there a problem with the switch or is the problem 
> deeper.
> >
> > Thanks
> > derric
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules 
> at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 

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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 02:15:00 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Lotsa new ads

http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html 

New record for lowest price car (be careful!!). Several recent price reductions. 

Must be the season - ads are coming in at a high rate, and also 
getting cancelled (car sold) at a higher rate than normal too. 

A DeLorean for every budget - be sure to check it out!

Dave Swingle




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