From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 674
Date: Saturday, August 18, 2001 2:27 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. kinked fuel line woes
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: New Owner
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com

3. Stainles louvers?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. update to my battery light/low charge problem
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. RE: Stainles louvers?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Re: update to my battery light/low charge problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

9. Re: update to my battery light/low charge problem
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: update to my battery light/low charge problem
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

11. Re: Stainles louvers?
From: mark_at_dml_knudsonward.com

12. D on Ebay
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

14. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: mark_at_dml_knudsonward.com

15. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Oxygen sensor
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

18. Leaking Interior Light
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Stainles louvers?
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

20. Couple from Little Rock
From: wbixby_at_dml_kclife.com

21. Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one! (alternator checkup)
From: "J Johnston" <kenworth_77_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:39:59 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: kinked fuel line woes

A previous owner had the accumulator replaced on my car, and they really
botched the job up.  One of the metal fuel lines going to the accumulator is
kinked about 20 degrees.  I need some advice on how to replace it.

Someone posted a message a while back about how to take the body far enough
off the frame to get in there to replace the fuel line.  I checked the DML
archives, and they haven't been updated recently enough to have this post.
Could someone post another blow-by-blow procedure?

Also, could someone give me the particulars about what kind of metal line I
need to replace it with?  Where do I get it?  What size is it?  Where do I
get those compression ferrell rings?  Does the new fuel line need to be
shaped in any way before I slip it between the frame and body?

As for the flexible lines at the accumulator, I thought before that they
were imporperly replaced with low pressure lines.  I took them of today and
found that they are the proper high pressure line, but they were leaking
anyway.  Someone used a razor knife to cut the old line off the fittings
which put deep gouges in the brass.  This made it impossible to get a proper
seal.  They put hose clamps on the ends of the hoses, but this didn't stop
it from leaking.

I think that the flexible line might have been the wrong length.  It was
48.5cm.  Does anyone know the proper length for this line?  It was badly
kinked before I took it off, and there was a worn spot where it had been
rubbing the frame.  So I suppose it was too long.

Does anyone have replacement fittings for the high pressure line at the
accumulator?  Mine are too badly scored to reuse, and the vendors say they
are in short supply.  I need two for the high pressure line, and probably a
3rd for the low pressure return line.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 23:04:10 EDT
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: New Owner

Try cleaning the switch contacts with a "electronic contact cleaner"  I had 
the same problem and I think the problem was that the  contacts was 
contaminated.  It's been 3 years and it is working fine.
Bill



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:28:13 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Stainles louvers?

One of the ads at dmcnews commerce section lists a car (in Baltimore MD) as
"one of three with stainless steel louvers."
This is the first I've heard of this... this wasn't a factory deal, was it?
Anyone have pictures?

---------
I read this somewhere:
"most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident, most
likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make accidents."




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 23:38:15 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: update to my battery light/low charge problem

Hey all,

to recap, my problem is this:

for the last month or so, every now and then my battery light would flicker 
for a few seconds and then go out again, usually accompanied by a brief drop 
in voltage on my gauge, to about 10 volts or so, then it would go back up on 
it's own.  this would especially happen during high RPM's, but seemed to also 
be somewhat random.  then this last week, things got ugly.  on the way home 
from work ( a 10 mile drive) my battery light was constantly flickering and 
my voltage was down around 8-10 for almost the entire drive home.  i have a 
130 amp alternator installed by the previous owner a little over a year ago, 
with new belts this spring by myself.

anyway, i posted earlier this week on what i should inspect.  i have so far 
inspected my battery connections - they are tight.  i checked the front 
ground strap - i cleaned it and reattached it.  i checked the rear trailing 
arm ground strap - it is still epoxied over so i decided to leave well enough 
alone.  i tightened my belt (it had a little slack in it) and started the 
car.  it's still only running at 8-10 volts.

now what do i do?  do i have to bite the bullet and order a new alternator?  
it's hard to believe that this one hardly lasted longer than a year!!  

which DMC vendor offered the 130-amp alternator? i checked through a few 
sites tonight but no one had this alternator listed.  what is the track 
record of it??  should i reduce down to the 105-amp alternator, or should i 
get the much cheaper 150 amp alternator?  and is the voltage regulator 
serviceable without rebuilding the entire alternator?

any advice would be greatly appreciated about now because this is quite a 
show-stopper!

Andy



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 04:38:36 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one!

Travis, Yes, The belt must be snug to charge properly. Normally you can push 
down maby 1/2 inch when it'd tight. Watch your alternator /volt needle, if it 
stays down below 13 volts all the time when your driving then that is most of 
the problem. You may have and original alternator that is wore out and not 
charging enough.
Let me know 
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/electrical.shtml 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 01:30:49 -0400
From: Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

This raises an interesting question.  Has anyone ever seen a DeLorean that has
had it's entire stainless skin polished to a mirror finish or even heard of any
existing?

Joe

Walter wrote:

> Stian,
>
> I discussed this with one of the foremost guru's of DeLorean fame, Rob
> Grady.  For my situation, he suggested starting out with 80 grit sand paper
> and finishing up with a Scotch-brite pad.  I did this with excellent
> results.  Rob also said that anything finer than 80 grit is more apt to
> polish rather than texture.
>
> >From my trial & error, I have learned the following:  The trick is to NOT
> cross the grain at all -- ever.  Use long straight lines following the
> grain.  It is better to do one narrow band running the length of the panel
> rather than try to touch up just one small spot.  When you are done, the
> finished area will be brighter than the rest, but soon it will re-oxidize to
> match everything else.
>
> Walt    Tampa, FL
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

--
**********************************
"I'll tell you what to think,
I don't care what you thought!"
--"Mastermind" (Cryptic Writings)
by Megadeth (Mustaine)
**********************************





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:15:25 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Stainles louvers?

If this is the car we saw at Bowie this year, it is the standard
DeLorean louvers that have been covered with some sheets of stainless..
It looks good!

I dont think I took any photos.



-----Original Message-----
From: K Creason [mailto:dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 11:28 PM
To: Dmc /dml
Subject: [DML] Stainles louvers?


One of the ads at dmcnews commerce section lists a car (in Baltimore MD)
as
"one of three with stainless steel louvers."
This is the first I've heard of this... this wasn't a factory deal, was
it?
Anyone have pictures?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:12:44 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: update to my battery light/low charge problem

A "new" alternater can be blown out by jumping the car incorrectly or 
shorting the output to ground even for a second. The way I check for a 
loose belt is to try to turn the pulley on the alternater by the fan 
behind the pulley. It should be hard to turn and it should move the 
belt. Too tight and you will blow the bearings in the alternater and 
wear out the belt. I have seen where the pulleys are worn and the belt 
is touching the bottom of the pulley. It should only touch the sides. 
You can purchase a gauge to check for a worn pulley. The wrong belt 
that isn't the right angle will slip under heat and load. You need to 
have the alternater bench tested and if needed they are repairable or 
rebuildable at much less than replacement cost. One blown diode will 
reduce the output significantly and impose an AC voltage on the system 
which will blow light bulbs and destroy the battery. Most places will 
put a charging system analyzer on the car for free (like Sears) and 
will pinpoint the problem for you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> to recap, my problem is this:
> 
> for the last month or so, every now and then my battery light would 
flicker 
> for a few seconds and then go out again, usually accompanied by a 
brief drop 
> in voltage on my gauge, to about 10 volts or so, then it would go 
back up on 
> it's own.  this would especially happen during high RPM's, but 
seemed to also 
> be somewhat random.  then this last week, things got ugly.  on the 
way home 
> from work ( a 10 mile drive) my battery light was constantly 
flickering and 
> my voltage was down around 8-10 for almost the entire drive home.  i 
have a 
> 130 amp alternator installed by the previous owner a little over a 
year ago, 
> with new belts this spring by myself.
> 
> anyway, i posted earlier this week on what i should inspect.  i have 
so far 
> inspected my battery connections - they are tight.  i checked the 
front 
> ground strap - i cleaned it and reattached it.  i checked the rear 
trailing 
> arm ground strap - it is still epoxied over so i decided to leave 
well enough 
> alone.  i tightened my belt (it had a little slack in it) and 
started the 
> car.  it's still only running at 8-10 volts.
> 
> now what do i do?  do i have to bite the bullet and order a new 
alternator?  
> it's hard to believe that this one hardly lasted longer than a 
year!!  
> 
> which DMC vendor offered the 130-amp alternator? i checked through a 
few 
> sites tonight but no one had this alternator listed.  what is the 
track 
> record of it??  should i reduce down to the 105-amp alternator, or 
should i 
> get the much cheaper 150 amp alternator?  and is the voltage 
regulator 
> serviceable without rebuilding the entire alternator?
> 
> any advice would be greatly appreciated about now because this is 
quite a 
> show-stopper!
> 
> Andy




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:14:31 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: update to my battery light/low charge problem

Andy, as I said earlier, the voltage regulator was going out and what you are 
reading is now battery voltage. If you read the voltage from the alternator 
direct you may see a little higher voltage but not much. Again, this is not 
an uncommon problem I see when you build 30 alternators a day for all makes 
of cars. You can take it off and have it checked, and they will confirm 
regulator failure.  The Deorean 150 alternator has a life warr.  
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/electrical.shtml



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 07:34:03 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: update to my battery light/low charge problem

One of my caveats is to always carry a spare alternator...who listens right?  Any
alternator can fail, at any time, be ready.  Whenever a problem with the charging
system occurs, the most likely suspect is the alternator.  Connections and
slipping belts are secondary but it never hurts to check before you get the new
alternator.

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> to recap, my problem is this:
>
> for the last month or so, every now and then my battery light would flicker
> for a few seconds and then go out again, usually accompanied by a brief drop
> in voltage on my gauge, to about 10 volts or so, then it would go back up on
> it's own.  this would especially happen during high RPM's, but seemed to also
> be somewhat random.  then this last week, things got ugly.  on the way home
> from work ( a 10 mile drive) my battery light was constantly flickering and
> my voltage was down around 8-10 for almost the entire drive home.  i have a
> 130 amp alternator installed by the previous owner a little over a year ago,
> with new belts this spring by myself.
>
> anyway, i posted earlier this week on what i should inspect.  i have so far
> inspected my battery connections - they are tight.  i checked the front
> ground strap - i cleaned it and reattached it.  i checked the rear trailing
> arm ground strap - it is still epoxied over so i decided to leave well enough
> alone.  i tightened my belt (it had a little slack in it) and started the
> car.  it's still only running at 8-10 volts.
>
> now what do i do?  do i have to bite the bullet and order a new alternator?
> it's hard to believe that this one hardly lasted longer than a year!!
>
> which DMC vendor offered the 130-amp alternator? i checked through a few
> sites tonight but no one had this alternator listed.  what is the track
> record of it??  should i reduce down to the 105-amp alternator, or should i
> get the much cheaper 150 amp alternator?  and is the voltage regulator
> serviceable without rebuilding the entire alternator?
>
> any advice would be greatly appreciated about now because this is quite a
> show-stopper!
>
> Andy
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:32:09 -0000
From: mark_at_dml_knudsonward.com
Subject: Re: Stainles louvers?

To K. Creason and the list,

If you search on the DML for message 11450 and 17505 they mention 
briefly something about stainless steel louvers.

I have not personally seen any pictures of SS louvers (but I would 
like to) and they don't appear to be available any longer.

I guess at one time they were available from
www.delorean-steel-products.com

Maybe someone can upload some pictures to the files section on the 
DML.

Mark R. Vanyo
VIN # 02261
Lic OUTATYM
Seattle, WA


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
One of the ads at dmcnews commerce section lists a car (in Baltimore 
MD) as "one of three with stainless steel louvers."
This is the first I've heard of this... this wasn't a factory deal, 
was it?
Anyone have pictures?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 17:54:59
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: D on Ebay

SO here is a good one there is an 1983 delorean with a grooved hood.
I didn't know they had thoes in 83. Maybe the hood was replaced with an 
eariler one.
Oh well take a look at it anyway.


                         Ryan- vin.#16301


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:35:41 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

There is a parts delorean that my dad and I are trying to buy. (the 
guy doesn't want to sell it.....yet)
This delorean's finish was polished to a near mirror finish.  I have 
pictures of it.  I would definately NOT drive this car on the road, 
it is very shiney in the sun

erik




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 20:13:17 -0000
From: mark_at_dml_knudsonward.com
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

To: Joe and the List,

The closest example of a polished DeLorean I've seen is at:
www.delorean.co.uk

Click on ENTER
Then, CLUB GALLERY
Check out picture # 21.

Or click on MEMBERS CARS
The beautiful example of a DeLorean is Chris Nicholson's DeLorean.

In my hummble opinion a DeLorean polished to a perfectly smooth 
mirror finish would look awesome but would be a hazard on the road 
since it would reflect sunlight in all directions.

Mark R. Vanyo
VIN # 02261
Lic OUTATYM
Seattle, WA


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_o...> wrote:
This raises an interesting question.  Has anyone ever seen a DeLorean 
that has had it's entire stainless skin polished to a mirror finish 
or even heard of any existing?

Joe




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 21:45:33 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

Chris Nicholson has brushed his car down to a very fine grain - as anyone at
Eurofest will tell you, it's incredible. He won the People's Choice in Belfast.
Lots of photos at www.delorean.co.uk in the Members Cars section. Make sure you see
this one

http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk/pictures/dcp01744.jpg

Martin
DOC UK

Jack The Stripper wrote:

> This raises an interesting question.  Has anyone ever seen a DeLorean that has
> had it's entire stainless skin polished to a mirror finish or even heard of any
> existing?
>
> Joe




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 17:57:17
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

Joe,
No, But my dad does body work  and was insting that he buff the body till it 
looked like chrome.
No one could look at it then, too shiny. LOL.

                         Ryan- vin.#16301



>From: Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_optonline.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Brushed  stainless finish
>Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 01:30:49 -0400
>
>This raises an interesting question.  Has anyone ever seen a DeLorean that 
>has
>had it's entire stainless skin polished to a mirror finish or even heard of 
>any
>existing?
>
>Joe
>
>Walter wrote:
>
> > Stian,
> >
> > I discussed this with one of the foremost guru's of DeLorean fame, Rob
> > Grady.  For my situation, he suggested starting out with 80 grit sand 
>paper
> > and finishing up with a Scotch-brite pad.  I did this with excellent
> > results.  Rob also said that anything finer than 80 grit is more apt to
> > polish rather than texture.
> >
> > >From my trial & error, I have learned the following:  The trick is to 
>NOT
> > cross the grain at all -- ever.  Use long straight lines following the
> > grain.  It is better to do one narrow band running the length of the 
>panel
> > rather than try to touch up just one small spot.  When you are done, the
> > finished area will be brighter than the rest, but soon it will 
>re-oxidize to
> > match everything else.
> >
> > Walt    Tampa, FL
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>--
>**********************************
>"I'll tell you what to think,
>I don't care what you thought!"
>--"Mastermind" (Cryptic Writings)
>by Megadeth (Mustaine)
>**********************************
>
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:20:57 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Oxygen sensor

Hi all

Can I get an oxygen sensor from my local Volvo dealer?

If so, does anyone know the part no.

Cheers

Paul
6463


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:58:06 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Leaking Interior Light

Hello
After washing our DeLorean, I took it out and drove it around a little bit to 
dry some parts I couldn't get at. After about 10 minutes the interior light, 
the one right over the center panel, started leaking. I am guessing this is 
because a leaking seal. Where would that seal be? Would it be the one between 
the stainless steel and black window lining? 
Also, how would I stop the leaking?

Thanks a lot!
John Feldman
VIN 4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 16:34:09 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Stainles louvers?



There are pictures of Virginia' Hodges 1983 DeLorean with the Stainless Steel 
Louver in DeLorean World Magazine from the 3rd Quarter of 1995.

The louver is a factory DeLorean, with stainless steel sheets epoxyed to the 
flat surfaces of the louver. The stainless adds some extra weight to the 
louver.

The car is currently for sale and is kept in good condition.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack
 



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 17:20:35 -0500
From: wbixby_at_dml_kclife.com
Subject: Couple from Little Rock

While at the Delorean Motor Company event last weekend I met a couple from
Little Rock, Arkansas.  I meant to exchange addresses and the like.

If by chance you monitor the DML, would you please get in contact with me.

Thanks,

Web Bixby
VIN # 01049



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 22:43:49 -0000
From: "J Johnston" <kenworth_77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Two! Two! Two questions in one! (alternator checkup)

Travis,
I have to agree with John on this one, as far as basic maintence goes. 
When you turn the ignition on, check the voltage reading. It should be 
around 10-12 volts. Most vehicles require 10 volts to provide enough 
juice to turn the starter fast enough to crank the car on. (this will 
tell you if your battery is up to par) Once the car is on, check the 
reading again. It should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 13 
volts. If it is under, it is one of two things. First, there is a 
short in the electrical system that is draining the battery faster 
than the alternator can recharge it or second, the alternator is bad. 
This could be either a defective alternator, or an under-powered one. 
John's alternators are a excellent replacement that provide plenty of 
juice to keep the battery sparking. If the alternator is bad, it is 
usually cause by the diodes or brushes simply wearing out. Remember 
the DeLoreans are around 20 years old, parts wear out, especially 
electrical stuff. You can have your alternator checked at most repair 
shops; they can check to see if it is providing enough juice to charge 
the battery. If it is charging, check for shorts in the wiring. 
(switches, lights, and signals are where I would start - as well as 
any wires that run near or on the frame.

Jason Johnston,
Kemco Industries, Inc.
Ft. Worth, Tx (currently Tyler)


________________________________________
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
 I can tell you that the battery is less than 2 months old. The car 
came off the truck with a dead battery, so I had Advance just replace 
it with an identical, so I am unsure of the CCAs. I jump in th car on 
Fridays (I like to drive on weekends) and the car turns over no 
problem. Saturdays I may crank it 4 or 5 times and it gets harder each 
time. Discussing it out loud like this makes me think the alternator 
may have problems. I also heard a squealing belt when I started the 
other day. Would a loose alternator belt cause poor recharging? As for 
the loose antenna base, I've found this is a semi-common problem. If I 
can devise a simple solution I will post it. Liquid Wrench here I 
come!





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