From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 676
Date: Monday, August 20, 2001 2:41 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brushed stainless finish
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

2. things that go bump in the night
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>

3. Engine Oil
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

4. 1/18 scale D question
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

5. It's for sale...and this time I mean it.
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Cleaning DeLoreans
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

7. Re: things that go bump in the night
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: things that go bump in the night
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

9. Airconditioning Question?????
From: jrhamilton1_at_dml_msn.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 14:29:43 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Brushed stainless finish

I've personally never seen a DeLorean with a polished finish. But I 
did speak w/a tow truck driver once who said he had to pick one up 
that was polished to a mirror finish. According to him, the owner was 
moving, but didn't want to risk taking the car on the highway for 
fear of debris striking the finish and runining it. Once the car was 
up on the flat bed, he wrapped the car cover on. This of course would 
be a huge concern since aside from rocks, you would then have to 
worry about sand storms, plastic bags, and flying newspapers.

On a related note, I've seen on other cars a silver/mirrored window 
tinting. It does reflect light, but no worse than the blacktop on the 
road, or the glass windows of other cars do. So I don't think SS with 
a polished finish is any more of a hazard than brushed SS rubbed down 
with oil is. It would be more a question of practicality.

-Robert
vin 6585


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> This raises an interesting question.  Has anyone ever seen a 
DeLorean that has
> had it's entire stainless skin polished to a mirror finish or even 
heard of any
> existing?
> 
> Joe




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 09:31:38 -0400
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>
Subject: things that go bump in the night

hi folks..

within the past week or so, i have heard a weird noise in the back end of my
car..  it seems to be coming from the righ rear of the car.  sometimes when
i take a left corner, there is a faint "thunk".  any thoughts as to what to
look for?  i was thinking that it may be a bushing starting to go but when i
looked, everything looked okay.  i don't think it's a c-v joint..  they all
seem tight.

:)
<=-mike-=>
www.nt.net/~mcutting





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 16:32:12 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Engine Oil

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The engine oil debate seems to start up every so often and there appear to be as many opinions on engine oil as there are people using it. As this has been covered quite well in the past, postings on this topic will be restricted to substantiated factual data rather than personal opinion. If you have hard data to share on this, please include the source of your data with your posting (like the back of the bottle in this case).]


    On the Mercedes Benz list the subject of engine oil is well debated. I 
though this would be of service to the beloved DeLorean PRV engine.


Sincerely,
Michael Pack

Subject: [MB] Just bought some 0W-40 Mobil1

After trading e-mails with my friend at Mobil, I first took his 
suggestion and contacted my local Benz dealer, as the fellow from Mobil 
said that MB dealerships had great access to the product, at very 
favorable terms.  So I called the guy I know at the parts counter, said 
I was interested in the 0W-40 and wanted to know about it's price and 
availability.   "Pete, I'm afraid I can't help you.  I've got it, but 
I've got a 1 thousand gallon tank out back feeding overhead supply 
lines, and nothing smaller".  Since I wasn't in the position to buy 
1,000 gallons of it at once, I thanked him, but only after learning they 
charge $6.50 a quart for an oil change.

Then I called a local distributor that they pointed me to.  Went there 
today, opened up a commercial account and bought 10 six-quart packs of 
the stuff at $28.25/case.

Looking at the labeling, I think it answers a lot of questions that many 
have raised recently on the list.   Here goes:

FRONT LABEL:
European Car Formula
Mobil1
Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40
Fully Synthetic Motor Oil

BACK LABEL:
Mobil1
Worlds Leading Synthetic Motor Oil
Tri-synthetic Mobil1 Formula 0W-40 exceeds the performance requirements 
of European automobiles and is engineered to offer outstanding 
protection in high-tech European engines.  It is approved against 
Mercedes Benz 229.1, a specification which is required by 1998 and newer 
Mercedes-Benz vehicles.  Tri-synthetic Mobil1 formulations are designed 
by Mobil engineers and use a unique combination of three high 
performance synthetic fluids proven to outperform all conventional oils.

- - European ACEA A3/B3/84-98 Approved
- - Mercedes-Benz 229.1 Approved
- - Meets engine performance requirements of Audi, BMW, Porsche, Saab, 
Volkswagen and Volvo
- - Outstanding protection for gasoline, diesel and turbocharged car engines
- - Tri-Synthetic formula extends engine life by reducing wear and oil 
breakdown
- - Excellent cleanliness and wear protection in high-temperature/hot 
running engines
- - Superior sludge and wear protection under severe, short trip operation
- - Helps reduce oil consumption
- - Compatible with conventional oils

Exceeds API Service SJ, SH/CF warranty requirements for gasoline and 
diesel engines. 

And it continues on with some other messages which are not as 
interesting.....

Hope this helps.....    



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 13:54:45 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: 1/18 scale D question

This question is directed more towards James.  Do you know how long 
this model will be available?  Is this a limited production item, or 
will they be making it for a while?  I need to know if I should buy a 
lot of them now, or if I have time to buy a couple every now and 
then.  

Erik
04512




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:55:12 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: It's for sale...and this time I mean it.

Group,

I am pleased (?) to offer my DMC for sale.  I have enclosed the 
details below, but if you want the "pretty" version, it's located at 
http://www.jbenboatright.com/for_sale.htm.

I am pleased to answer any questions about the car, or offer any 
showings/test drives.  You are free to forward/redistribute this 
message to anyone interested.  

My contact info is at the end of this message.  As with any post like 
this one, please CONTACT ME PRIVATELY for information.  

=====

PRICE:  $18,500

Year:  1982 DeLorean DMC-12

Mileage:  Approx. 37,500 (at the time of this page's update)

Color:  Stainless Steel exterior, grey interior.  Black floor mats.  

Transmission:  5-Speed & drives very, very smoothly.

Condition:  Immaculate.  Only one ding on the rear engine support 
(smaller than a nickel).  Please see photos for more detail.

Upgrades (note:  every item below has a receipt to go with it):  
    --Custom Digital Dash from Dakota Digital.
    --New instrument binnacle (instrument pod) from DMC Houston.
    --Cruise Control from Dakota Digital.
    --New Radio Bracket (From DMC Houston) for DIN-style radios.  
    --SONY In-dash CD Player.  Part of the "Xplod" line from Sony.  
This CD player also plays MP3 files.  
   --LockZilla with new & upgraded door lock solenoids
   --LockZilla Keyless Entry
    --Die Hard Gold Battery
    --SpecialTauto.com "DeLorean 150" High Amp Alternator
    --SpecialTauto.com Upgraded RPM Relay (Bosch), upgraded relays, 
and circuit breakers.  Also includes the "Fan Fix 2x2" (same as 
FanZilla).
    --"LampZilla" upgraded tail light circuit boards with upgraded 55 
watt bulbs (much brighter than original).
    --COMPLETELY REPLACED A/C system, using R-134a.  All system 
components have been replaced, including a high-performance 
replacement for the orifice tube.  
    --New A/C fascia decal (panel where the A/C controls are located).
    --New A/C mode switch diaphragm (controls where vacuum pressure 
goes to open A/C doors).  
    --NEW 3-core radiator from PJ Grady.  This radiator has 3 
(instead of 2) cores & brass end tanks (vs. the original plastic end 
tanks).  
    --Radiator hoses replaced with new silicone hoses from PJ Grady.
    --New thermostat with gasket.
    --New "Reproduction" Owner's Manual from PJ Grady.
    --New door pulls/straps.  
    --Rear Tires are only 4 months old Michelin Pilot XGT H-rated.  
Front Tires are in very good condition Yokohama AVS.  
    --Overheat protector from DMC Joe. (Prevents air from getting 
into the coolant system.)
    --Spark plug wires (Bosch), plugs (Champion), distributor cap & 
rotor are only 1500 miles old.  
    --New Super Stock coil.  
    --New headlight switch.  
    --New shiftboot (with metal frame) from DMC Houston.
    --"DeLorean" stainless steel letters for rear bumper (see 
photos).  
    --New/upgraded hard urethane steering column bushing.
    --New rear sunshade lift pistons.
    --New Angle Drive & new/improved lower speedometer cable.
    --Upgraded window motor regulators (from PJ Grady).  
    --Upgraded "Adjustable Clutch Link" from PJ Grady.  
    --New "DeLorean" hood emblem.
    --New/Upgraded cooling fans (from Flex-lite) rated at 2000 CFM.  
Also a new Otterstat (temp sensor that turns on the fans).  
    --Workshop & Maintenance manuals
    --Optional FULL collection of "DeLorean World" (from DeLorean 
Owners Association) for a cost of $300.  NOTE:  this would cost you 
at least $400 from DOA.  
    --Optional collection of various spare parts that have been 
removed after upgrading many components--$200.  NOTE:  you could sale 
these items, as almost all of them still work.  

=====

CONTACT INFO:
Ben Boatright
Cell Phone/VM:  678.524.5068
Home:  770.475.9072


Regards,
Ben Boatright
tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 11:16:20 -0700
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning DeLoreans

I should have noted that the product mentions not to use on painted surfaces
and that it may stain certain plastics. I'm not sure what they mean by that
because I've been using it on the black parts of the DeLorean for a year
with no bad results. It restored the new look to the black bumper sections
as well as the black metal trim around the windshield. It contains various
polymers and antiozonants and lasts quite a while.

Bruce Benson


>Miguiars sells a product for
> treating tires called Endurance High Gloss. It's a purple grape smelling
gel
> that works great on the black trim . Like all things in life, moderation
is
> best. Use it sparingly and it makes the black bumpers and trim look new.
>
> Bruce Benson
>




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 14:42:48 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: things that go bump in the night

In a message dated 8/19/01 10:06:02 AM Central Daylight Time, mcutting_at_dml_nt.net 
writes:


> hi folks..
> 
> within the past week or so, i have heard a weird noise in the back end of my
> car..  it seems to be coming from the righ rear of the car.  sometimes when
> i take a left corner, there is a faint "thunk".  any thoughts as to what to
> look for?  i was thinking that it may be a bushing starting to go but when i
> looked, everything looked okay.  i don't think it's a c-v joint..  they all
> seem tight.
> 
> :)
> <=-mike-=>
> 


Hey Mike,

i have this same problem.  things to inspect include proper lubrication of 
the inner and outer drive shaft (it could be sticking and slipping back and 
forth), check proper torque on your trailing arm bolts, and check proper 
torque on the body-to-chassis bolts (DMCJoe says this is the most common 
source of the sound).  i still have this problem because i have yet to find 
time to check all those bolts!!

Andy.

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 18:10:41 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: things that go bump in the night

Mike, get this fixed before you do any driving! Sounds like to me it's 
another case of a loose trailing arm bolt. You can check by taking off the 
deflector plate underneath the suspension parts (be careful b/c the mounting 
bolts have a tendancy to break easily, so go slow), you will see a long arm 
coming from the middle of the car back to the strut. At the origin of this 
arm there are several shims and one long bolt. If the shims are loose or 
missing, then this is definately your culprit. Do Not Drive Your Car without 
fixing this problem, if that bolt is about to break it could mean a complete 
suspension collapse. All of the suppliers have bolts and the shims are 
readily available at most auto parts stores. These shims are what aligns the 
rear of the car so you might want to get the car realigned if they are 
missing. I am sure that there is a previous post on how to remove the bolt 
and replace it, but if you can find one, email me and I'll help you out (I 
just did this same thing a month or two ago).

John Weaver
DMC# 10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 22:17:31 -0000
From: jrhamilton1_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Airconditioning Question?????

I have been servicing my airconditioner and have a question to the 
group.  The DeLorean service manual has a chart that relates high and 
low manifold pressures versus ambient temperature.  The manual that I 
have does not mention an engine rpm to measure these pressures at.  
As you know engine rpm has a direct effect on these pressures.  Does 
anyone know what this rpm value is and if you do what is your 
source?  Thanks, Jim Hamilton.




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