From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 678
Date: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 3:20 AM

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There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: 3760 Miles, and still going strong.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. getting body off frame
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

3. Re: 1/18 scale D question
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

4. Re: Re: Fuel tank baffle
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Idle Control
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com

6. Re: New to DMC news list
From: "dmczr1" <dmczr1_at_dml_qwest.net>

7. Delorean for sale
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: 1/18 DeLorean
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Owner's Groups
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>

10. Re: Idle Control
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. DeLorean in Spain
From: dirk_at_dml_bettycat.de

12. Re: Two! Two! Teo questions in one!
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

13. window film
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

14. Re: getting body off frame
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

15. Tires for a" D"
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: 1/18 scale D question
From: tucker11199_at_dml_yahoo.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 15:05:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 3760 Miles, and still going strong.


I was glad to see Jim's posting.  Too often lists like
this concentrate only on problems.

I, too, attended the DMC Houston event and drove my
car over 3000 miles (3400 to be exact) with 1000 miles
of that being in a single day!  No problems.  Keep in
mind that the average temp for the entire 9 days I was
on the road was 95š and yet I never came close to
overheating and the air conditioner worked very well.

Thanks to an intentionally richer mixture for my
turbos, I can't match Jim's mileage, but I have no
complaints.

For 19 years I have been telling people that this car
is a really fine road car.  I'm glad to see others
putting it to the test.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867  



   



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:12:31 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: getting body off frame

Nobody has volunteered any info yet on getting the body off the frame so
that I can replace a kinked fuel line.  I'm not out to completely remove the
two halves, but just get them far enough apart to replace the line.

According to the parts manual there are a total of 10 bolts that hold the
fiberglass underbody to the frame.  Is this correct?  What else needs to be
disconnected in order to get the two apart?  Brake master cylinder?

If anyone knows of any links to sites that show this procedure, then send me
a link.  If you know this procedure yourself and are too lazy to type it up,
send me your phone number and a good time to call, and I will call you.

Thanks,
Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:43:39 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Re: 1/18 scale D question

Does anybody know who's delorean has been imortalized in the 1/18th 
scale?  Did they use a delorean from DMC Houston? 

erik






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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 19:33:17 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel tank baffle

In a message dated 8/20/01 5:31:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jeff_at_dml_coware.com 
writes:


> . When the
> tank got low, below the level of the crack, the pump was sucking air
> through the crack. I trimmed the hose down below the crack and
> reattached it to the pump.
> 
> 

If you trimmed it off below the elbow, (like a prior owner had done to mine,) 
you'll be forcing it to kink at the bend.  Not a good idea, since it can 
starve your fuel pump causing premature failure. New hoses aren't hard to 
install, and a bad hose is a lot of grief.

-Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 01:39:10 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com
Subject: Re: Idle Control

You didn't mention in your post that you were actually experiencing 
any idle control problems with your car, so I'm wondering what the 
actual problem you are trying to solve is.

It is true that when cold the DeLorean idle has a tendency to 
oscillate/surge. This is fairly typical for the car(although neither 
of my cars oscillate like this as this tendency can be tuned out). 
This is actually not due to the idle speed control system at all, but 
due to the lambda mixture enrichment system oscillating at cool 
temperatures. The response time of the oxygen sensor in the exhaust 
system is a bit slow when the sensor is cold and the result is that 
the mixture control system has a tendency to oscillate between lean 
and rich because the sensor is not responding well. Once the system 
warms up a bit the oscillation tendency usually goes away.

Although the surging at low temperatures might be a little annoying, 
it does not have any real adverse impact and should only last a few 
minutes during warmup. I'm not aware of any real deficiency in the 
Bosch idle speed control system and have never heard of this as being 
a high failure rate item (DMC Joe seems to have failure rate data on 
all the components in the car). The only common problem that I recall 
being covered on the list have to do with corrosion of the 
connections to the idle speed regulator -- something I'm sure a 
Japanese unit is not immune to.

         Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
<snip>

> about it.  However, he did tell me that he was a little concerned 
with the way 
> the car was idling.  He began to give me his two cents on the 
subject, and 
> told me that european car manufacturers can't seem to make a good 
idle control 
> system. 
  





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 20:11:04 -0600
From: "dmczr1" <dmczr1_at_dml_qwest.net>
Subject: Re: New to DMC news list

Mike,
    Everyone has a different reason for selling, here's mine.  I owned a
ZR-1 for 8 years.  The motor was a piece of art, but the rest of the car -
typical GM quality I'm afraid to say.  On a whim, I bought a Delorean about
a year ago.  After buying the Delorean, I realized I liked driving it better
than the ZR-1, so I sold the ZR-1 this spring.  But then, the musclecar bug
bit again.  Recently, I bought a '97 Viper, so I've decided to sell the
Delorean (need money - Vipers are very expensive).  I still like the
Delorean and would keep it if I had the room and didn't need the cash.

BTW, when you compare an '82 Delorean to an '82 Corvette, the Delorean comes
off much better in terms of quality of materials and engineering.

Jack Janney
82 #10901


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cohee, Michael" <mcohee_at_dml_cfginc.com>
Subject: [DML] New to DMC news list

> I have been on the list for a week or so and have been looking at getting
a DeLorean
 Just curious why people sell...

> Mike C,
> Baltimore



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 03:26:53
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean for sale

Hi list Sorry If Iam bugging anyone I just would like to inform you all that 
Thanks to Steve There is a nice page to view my car and info about it being 
for sale, The Html is - http://www.ponchatoulahigh.com/dmc/index.htm
I think it looks good. Check it out!
Thanks again everyone!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301


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Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:37:59 -0600
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1/18 DeLorean

I just went into my local Toys R'Us today and asked about the DMC.  Checking 
there computer, they had it listed as available mid-October with a suggested 
retail price of $34.99.  That's in Canadian $$$ of coarse.

Regarding the gold-plated cars.  As Sun Star explained to me, they'll only 
be made if the stainless and BTTF cars sell well.  So, if they're only going 
to make 50,000 units, that's honestly not a helluva lot of cars.  If you 
take into consideration the amount of DeLorean owner/enthusiasts there are 
in the world, plus auto-buffs; and take into account the average Joe who 
just walks into the store and happens to see one and thinks it's cool and 
buys it; I believe Sun Star is underestimating how well these will really 
do.  I think we can stop holding are breath; I wouldn't be surprised if the 
gold-plated ones go into production after-all.

My advice, buy as many as you want the first time, cause they'll be gone!!!

Randy
Vin #16353




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:41:45 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>
Subject: Re: Owner's Groups

There are plenty of us out here!

Bill Lane
Vin 3635
DOA # 515




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 11:49:42 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle Control

Willie, I agree with Knut about the Idle system. from a parts stand 
point, I sell about 1 idle speed motor a year and maby two switches 
for the motor. I don't know if the switches are bad or someone wants 
a spare, but that's the extent of selling parts. The system is very 
reliable if set up properly. You might make sure there is no water or 
moisture trapped in the spark plug holes, that will also cause an 
irregular idle. By the way, Bosch makes the Idle speed system, and 
you can't get any better than that. 
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/electrical.shtml



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
However, he did tell me that he was a little concerned with the way 
> the car was idling.  ?
> 
> Thanks
>   Willie Mack
>   Vin 5043




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:24:01 +0200
From: dirk_at_dml_bettycat.de
Subject: DeLorean in Spain

There is a very beautiful DeLorean for sale here in Spain (Majorca -
Balearic Islands). Itīs VIN # is 17107, built 09/82, grey interiour, manual
transmission.
Itīs overall condition is very good (only little optical things to do) and
the car has british number plates. It belongs to a british gentleman who
needs the space in his garage.

If someone is interested, email me privately and I will give you the phone
number of the seller.

Dirk (VIN # 6795)





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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:53:31 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Re: Two! Two! Teo questions in one!

For all the guys that have been helping me with my battery/alternator,
here's what I've got. I took some readings last night and everything looks
good. Engine at idle: 14 V,  Engine at idle and all accessories on: 13V,
Engine at 1500 rpm and all accessories on: 14V. The reading are all analog,
so it could be +/- .5V. I know there is no drain on the battery because the
previous owner installed a battery saver switch, so when it's sitting in the
driveway I turn it off. Joe, you mentioned I should replace the original
Ducellier (which it still has). What amperage should I shoot for? The belt
is a little loose, so instead to tightening it, I think I'll just repace it.
Also, mybattery's CCAs are 700. Isn't that a little low?

Thanks again guys!



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 10:16:18 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: window film

The air conditioner throws cold air. The heater warm. However after I clean the inside and outside of the windows a few days later there is a film or very thin coating of what looks like a  "mist" -  similar to a fog that disappears when the defroster goes on. However, this does not go away with the defroster, only window cleaner. I use regular paper toweling with the cleaner. Carpets are dry, and there is no musty odour or moisture. The car is always garaged and usually not out in the rain.  Any thoughts? 

Marvin Stein
#4239


tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
web: printeddrinkware.com
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 14:27:54 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: getting body off frame

Required: 
-2 people (make it easier and you have an extra set of eyes to watch) 
although you can do it alone.
-2 2.5 - 3 Ton rolling floor jacks. Again you can do it with only 
one, but it makes it easier.
-15 - 20 cinder blocks (to keep the body on top of while you work)
-a few lengths of 4x4 wood posts. The jacks have a limited travel and 
some of them cannot lift the body high enough to clear the frame, 
that's where the wood comes into play. Place them in-between the body 
and the jack.
-Level area to work on
-Patience!

Body Removal:
As always disconnect the battery before doing any work.
There are a Total of twelve (12) bolts that are holding the body to 
the frame. They are as follows: two (2) are in the luggage 
compartment, each one located above the shock towers. 

Six (6) are located inside the car, three (3) on each side of the 
center console located near the seats. Two of those bolts (out of the 
six) are holding the seat belts to the frame. Once you unbolt the 
seat belt from the floor, pull back the carpeting on both sides (the 
bolts are located right near the seat belt bolt) of the center 
console and you will see the other four (again 2 on each side).

Four (4) are located in the engine compartment. Here's where it gets 
tricky. There are two located on the cross member bar (see parts 
manual). Now from what I understand it is a common problem that the 
bolt(s) are frozen in there (at least mine was a few other owners 
have told me). Be careful removing these since the nut is just a cage 
nut sitting in the frame...you can bend the "cage part" (welded to 
the frame) and cause the square nut to just spin in there, you'll 
then have to cut the bolt and use a little ingenuity in getting the 
other half out of the cage (shocks are in the way). The last two will 
require the removal of the rear fascia. One you get the fascia off 
you will se two large openings on either side of the pontoon, the 
bolts are located in there. You'll have to stick your hand in there 
with a socket to remove them.

Once you have the bolts removed, disconnect the following: Brake 
lines to the master cylinder, Clutch line to the Clutch master 
cylinder, Remove the leather gear shift boot, remove the front ground 
wires (bolted to the frame), disconnect the ground wire from the 
battery to the trailing arm bolt, disconnect all the engine wiring 
harness (behind the ignition coil cover), ground wires going to the 
engine.

Jack up the body from the sides GO SLOWLY. If you use two jacks, 
place a piece of wood between the two and place them on both sides of 
the body under the seat area as close to the edge as possible 
(stronger area near the bend). DON'T place the jack directly in the 
center of where the seats are unless you want a floorless Flinstone 
car. Again, jack up the car slowly and EVENLY. As you jack it up 
you'll see that the body will start to rock from front to back...use 
the cinder blocks to prevent that by placing some in the front and on 
the sides (next to the jacks) as you raise the body.

Is it necessary to remove all those things? Some are...but some you 
may be able to leave connected since some of the wires are long 
enough (since you are just lifting the body enough to get to the 
lines). When you go to replace the fuel lines, be prepared those 
plastic clips will break when you are removing the old line! I would 
suggest ordering all those clips holding the fuel line also, they are 
very inexpensive and I believe DMC Houston has them in stock.

I hope this was semi helpful. I have a few pictures of me removing 
the body off of the frame completely. If you need any more help you 
can contact me directly by email if you like.

Steve Rubano

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Nobody has volunteered any info yet on getting the body off the 
frame so
> that I can replace a kinked fuel line.  I'm not out to completely 
remove the
> two halves, but just get them far enough apart to replace the line.
> 
> According to the parts manual there are a total of 10 bolts that 
hold the
> fiberglass underbody to the frame.  Is this correct?  What else 
needs to be
> disconnected in order to get the two apart?  Brake master cylinder?
> 
> <SNIP>




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 18:37:31
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Tires for a" D"

Hey list,
I know everyone raves about the Yoko tires, but I must say the Firestone 
Firehawks SS20 come in both wheel sizes so you can have a matching set of 4 
tires. Also for anyone who has never been to tirerack.com they have a 
listing for DeLorean for tires in different name brands including the 
"Yoko's". So check it out, It is a good site.

                         Ryan- vin.#16301


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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 21:44:14 -0000
From: tucker11199_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: 1/18 scale D question

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., delorean502_at_dml_e... wrote:
> Does anybody know who's delorean has been imortalized in the 1/18th 
> scale?  Did they use a delorean from DMC Houston? 
> 
> erik


yeh erik, his initials are JZD.




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