From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 688
Date: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:51 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Items on eBay.

2. More on the Mystery Electrical Gremlin (Grrrrrrr!)

3. Re: My Clutch - Part II

4. Re: Voltage Drop and Clicking Sound

5. Re: missing logo and vin#
From: "Joseph Molino" <>

6. Re: Re: Bigger Problem - Clutch

7. Re: "Cavepaintings" and dates in behind (above) headliners...
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

8. RE: Miniature Lamps
From: Travis Goodwin <>

9. RE: Cruise-In Program Update
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

10. Fuse question

11. Re: Winner of the Gold DeLorean
From: "DMC Joe" <>

12. Re: Used window regulators on ebay
From: "DMC Joe" <>

13. Re: BMW Eurofest, NC Owners and idle stall

14. Gas cap rust...

15. used cats for sale

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:42:02 -0000
Subject: Items on eBay.

Quick question/request. When posting about items on eBay, could it be 
possible to post the item # rather than the link? When getting the 
DML Digest, YahooGroups sometimes cuts off part of the URL. And when 
you attempt to paste both sections of the link, it hardley ever 
works. But if we have the item #, a quick search for the item will 
find it MUCH quicker. Plus this will help if your advertising an item 
that you have for sale!


vin 6585


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 01:41:38 -0000
Subject: More on the Mystery Electrical Gremlin (Grrrrrrr!)

Since posting about my problem, I've recieved 4 replys (I had to 
telnet into my mail server to read my e-mail), with 4 seperate 
answers. All appear to make sense, so I will naturally check all 
points out. However, this has lead me to ask some new questions.

1.> Electrical short in the CPR heater.
This seems obvious, and shouldn't be too much of a problem to remedy.
2.> Fuel Pump going bad.
While the pump is supposed to be new, I do realize that things do of 
course go bad. So my question here is how do I check how much current 
the pump is drawing, vs. what is considered normal?
3.> Puctured wiring harness.
Something new I've never heard of, but does sound logical. So, here 
my question is of course how do I inspect/access the harness to 
repair/prevent this from happening again? I currently have my old 
clutch plate sitting under the spare tire to balance the weight ratio 
of the car to improve road grip. So removal of excess trunk wieght 
isn't a viable option at this point.
4.> I can remove fuse #7 to install a heavy duty, in-line fuse 
holder. That's not a problem at all. But I am a bit curious as to 
what the design flaw is. Is it the issue with the wiring harness 
under the driver side fender, or is it because too many accessories 
are fed thru this one fuse?

Now, a little back ground. My inertia switch has been removed from 
the circuit entirely. Last year when my fuel pump failed in traffic, 
I had to bypass the inertia switch to get the fuel pump to run. The 
pump is now grounded directly to the chassis.

A week ago, my fuel pump did become noisy a couple of times. But 
after inspecting the pickup hose, there are no leaks, and the hose is 
rock solid with the spring installed.

Before I go, many thanks out to everyone who has helped me thus far!

vin 6585


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 02:35:20 -0000
Subject: Re: My Clutch - Part II

Yes, soon after driving thru some flood water, I did have clutch 
failures. At first (because the water was at the bottom of a hill, 
below an industrial area) I believed that oil may have washed onto 
the clutch disc, and that was the cause of slippage. When the car was 
taken into the shop, it was discovered that the disc was worn down to 
the rivits. Almost no material was left. I hadn't anticipated this, 
but I had already ordered a new slave and master cylinder (Hard Core 
from P.J. Grady). My car had been fitted with a SS Braided line 
previously, and had it's master cylinder resealed by someone (a very 
poor "ghetto" job at that). The slave was missing it's rubber seal on 
the outside as well. Going back over everything, water was the 
culprit that caused my failure. But, this is only because of old 
parts that failed under regular use.

This first time I had my clutch replaced, I noticed fluid dripping 
from the slave cylinder. And it should be noted that both times 
before my clutch failed, I drove thru water. And my slave was also 
missing the rubber seal on the outside as well.

Since the replacement of the clutch, and all related components, 
everything is just fine. I've since driven thru some pretty deep 
water, and have had no problems with my clutch at all!

I don't think you can replace the clutch fork and related components 
with out dropping the entire tranny. Total labor cost for my car: 
$480. This covered tranny removal/replacement, installation of slave 
cylinder (I installed the master), resurface flywheel, installation 
of clutch and all related parts, flush/bleed system, and adjust shift 
linkage & cable.

It's understandable that your car may be out of commision for a 
little while. Just remember to start the car, and run the motor 

vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jim Reeve"<ultra_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Well, after climbing on top of the engine this afternoon and 
peering down at
> the clutch, I have a better understanding what had happened.  From 
initial visual
> inspection, I could see that the outer seal on the slave cylinder 
is completely
> torn off.  The push-rod also looks like its fully extended, and the 
> bolt from the push-rod to the pivot fork has broke in two.  The 
pivot fork itself
> looks like its fully retracted (clutch engaged) but when I started 
the engine
> today I could shift through all gears without problem, like the 
engine wasn't
> even on.  So I'm assuming that the clutch is physically siezed 
slightly disengaged.
>  An inspection under the car (but not jacked up) showed clutch 
fluid all over
> the frame, so I have to get that cleaned up and repainted/epoxyed.  
But what
> really caught my attention was a fair sized square hole on the 
driver's side
> of the transmission casing in the clutch area.  If I remember 
correctly, Robert
> Rooney started having major problems with his clutch after driving 
through a
> small flood.  I believe Robert later diagnosed the water to have 
entered the
> clutch area through this opening and corroded the internals of the 
clutch. (howd
> I do Robet?)  Isn't there supposed to be a seal over this opening?  
I couldn't
> find it in the parts manual.  I've been driving my DeLorean daily 
since June,
> and this included quite a few drives through the rain.  So it seems 
my clutch
> has had pleanty of exposure to water.  For those who are 
interested, I will
> still be attending the Minnesota Fall Get-together, but without my 
car.  Thats
> it for now, my car is disabled for the rest of this year.  Everyone 
else enjoy
> them!
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 01:22:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Voltage Drop and Clicking Sound

Bobby and Group, You say the bulb fixed the problem with the volt meter and 
then you say your having the same symptoms again. Did the bulb go out again 
and if so then your probably falling victim to the regulator problem that 
will be plaguing the older application cars that don't have a computer.  
Alternator builders who were and are using GM regulators. Everybody beware, 
GM changed the regulators a month or two ago and where the Delorean only uses 
the light wire for exciter, GM regulators would work fine but they knew they 
were being used in a non GM application. Now the GM regulators won't work. 
Our cars are getting older and the GM regulators now have to have the sense 
wire hooked up also, if not the regulator will self destruct. 
Not to worry, I now have a new Light wire regulator only and it's working 
fine. I also have a new external mounted regulator that will run cooler and 
is adjustable. We can now overcome the low voltage needle on the volt meter 
on the dash also.  If you have and are running fine with the alternator you 
have, and it was built recently like mine were, they more than likely have 
the older technology GM regulator and will work fine till they just die of 
old age. Then we will install the new light wire only regulators. Maybe GM 
will get enough complaints to come back with it.
John Hervey


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 23:40:35 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <>
Subject: Re: missing logo and vin#

you don't need a new grill.  Some people like the look of the grill all
black without the logo.  Just purchase a logo ( 50$) and install it
yourself.  A new grill is almost $400.

vin 2850

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cohee, Michael" <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 1:20 PM
Subject: [DML] missing logo and vin#

> Currently looking at a Delorean and have 2 questions...the front grill is
> missing the DMC logo...anyone have one fall off? stolen? just curious why
> it would be missing and if they are easy to have put back on or do you
> need a new grill.

[moderator snip]


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:18:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Bigger Problem - Clutch

Eric, I just replaced my clutch system about 2 months ago, 51,000 miles. Even though you can shift with the throw out bearing squeeling and it will created a more friction and force on the system, You may have worn the disk down to the point it has now worn or groved into the flywheel. If this has done then you will have to remove the flywheel and have it turned also. If you will look at my web site under drive train, I am showing what the disk and pressure plate look like as well as the clutch disk. Yes, I replace all the clutch parts when you have it tore down, it would be going out more than likley with in a few thousand miles unless you plan not to keep the car. It would also save a lot of money and time in the future.
John hervey train


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:19:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: "Cavepaintings" and dates in behind (above) headliners...

Here's under the healiner of Dave Howarth's car (the one in the Back from the
Future video)

As you can see it's one of "Metal Mickey's". I believe Dan Willis
( has doors signed by "Elvis"


Jan van de Wouw wrote:

> Another thing I found is a drawing of "Winnie the Witch", I remember
> seeing a similar picture on the Internet, can someone point me to the
> right URL? I tried searching the group, but the search turned up
> empty.


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:54:23 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <>
Subject: RE: Miniature Lamps

One thing I have notice about the lamps on the Delorean is that they all
cross over pinball machines. I have 3 and I have used lamps from them in the
tail lights and interior. These lamps are very cheap and are sold in boxes
of ten (for about $3). Check out Marco specialties website:

Greenville, SC
VIN 3512


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:10:06 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: Cruise-In Program Update

I have been considering going to this show, but have decided to fly
instead of drive.

Is there anyone that will have a extra seat in their car (a DMC or
otherwise) that could let me tag along for the weekend?  I'd fly in to
Atlanta on Friday night, and out on Sunday night.

Id like to avoid renting a car.


-----Original Message-----
From: DMC Joe []
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 12:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Cruise-In Program Update

To All,

As we move closer to the show date the program rundown is beginning to
take final shape. Here is a quick review. 



Message: 10
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 13:53:19 -0000
Subject: Fuse question

I noticed that I had no brake lights. The fuse was broken.
It calls for a 10 amp fuse. I recently connected a third tail light 
that came installed on the car mounted on the luvures. I put in a 15 
amp fuse for the tail lights because with the addition of the third 
tail light a 10 amp may not be enough. Is my thinking correct or am I 
making a mistake. What is and how do you figure the amp load of your 
brake light circit.


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:38:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Winner of the Gold DeLorean


You asked: "....... and wondered if anyone knew where this gold DeLorean is now?"

Click on this link for the latest information on the Gold DeLorean .

DMC Joe 
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>



Message: 12
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:40:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Used window regulators on ebay

To All

For anyone interested in used window motor regulators, we will have a box full for sale at the DMC Joe Parts Flea Market at the Cruise-In Show Show next month.

Link to: Cruise-In

DMC Joe 
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>

[moderator snip]


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 16:10:28 -0000
Subject: Re: BMW Eurofest, NC Owners and idle stall

I have am now a student in Davidson NC with my Delorean, I 
might be interested in hooking up with owners from Winston 
salem to go to this show,  
My car has been doing great for these first few weeks of classes, 
but when I have the AC on, it tends to stall at low rpms, like when 
I idle at the stoplights.  

Also note My e-mail address is now
and I cannot check my earthlink email easily anymore
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 Davidson, NC
VIn 6808 Oak Ridge, TN

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> There will probably be three of us from Winston-Salem, NC 
going.  We were there
> last year and it's quite a show!
> Bill Lane
> #3635


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:34:02 EDT
Subject: Gas cap rust...

Perhaps a silly question, but what is the best way to get rust off a badly rusted gas cap?

Modesto, CA
(no, I never voted for Gary Condit)


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:29:53 -0000
Subject: used cats for sale

I have about 4 used CATS that I want to get rid of.  They all have 
about 20K on them.  Use them as replacements, use them for testing, 
hollow one out, whatever.  I'm selling them for $20 each.  If anyone 
is interested, let me know.  They all appear to be ok inside, but I'm 
not going to guarentee anything.  I will guarentee that they will 
fit :)  



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to