From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 700
Date: Monday, September 10, 2001 6:09 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: California duster
From: Christian Williams <>

2. Re: Craig Radio UPDATE

3. Electric window
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>

4. Re: California duster
From: Dick Ryan <>

5. Re: Great Delorean Day

6. Re: Great Delorean Day
From: "David Swingle" <>

7. Re: DMC Houston

8. Re: Craig Radio UPDATE
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>

9. Re: Oxygen sensor wireing
From: "B Benson" <>

10. CA Duster
From: Les Huckins <>

11. Re: Electric window
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>

12. Another update on the West Coast Show - September 20-23
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <>

13. Re: buying a delorean for tall person
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <>

14. Running a little rich

15. Q & A on trailing arm bolt replacement
From: "Walter" <>

16. Re: SEDOC Cruise-in
From: "Randy Stribling" <>

17. Service Centers

18. Aftermarket Steering Wheel

19. Re: Re: Deloreans in Indianapolis, Indiana

20. RE: 101096
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <>

21. hood adjustment
From: "Walter" <>

22. Looking for that D
From: "Some Nut" <>

23. DMC clone = Aston Martin Bulldog
From: "Walter" <>

24. Re: Looking for that D

25. Deceleration Problem

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 22:11:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <>
Subject: Re: California duster

I've got one. I picked it up just a few weeks ago and have used it every
now and then. Be careful when you first get it though. There's a special
wax on the brush that is allegedly the "magic" in the duster. The
directions say that you should first lay it out on newspaper for 48 hours
to let some of the wax soak into the newspaper, and that the first couple
of dustings may leave some wax on your car. Just to be safe, I did the
first couple dustings on my roommate's car (an old mercedes with paint
*smile*). It seems to work just fine though. It really saves in between


On Sat, 8 Sep 2001 wrote:

> I just ordered a California Duster from California Car Cover Co..
> Has anyone tried one of these and what were the results, I live on a
> dirt road so I thought this might work, I also bought a bottle of
> Vinylex through this company.
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 03:02:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Craig Radio UPDATE

David, Most of the time the circuit board can be fixed. Jumpers can be added 
and traces can be repaired. We used to use a product called silver print or 
copper print.. I haven't bought any in a long time but that is what it's 
called. Let me know If I can help.
John hervey


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 11:53:24 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
Subject: Electric window

Hi all    

My drivers side window stopped working today, well stopped going up and down... The motor still turns in both the up and down direction, however the window stays put. There is a clicking sound as if the window has got to its furthest point and the gear is slipping.
Is this repairable?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 05:32:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <>
Subject: Re: California duster

I, too, must drive on a gravel road to and from my
house (2miles of dust).  The CA car duster works fine.
I have also had satisfactory results with Vinylex.

Dick Ryan

Do You Yahoo!?
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 00:30:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Great Delorean Day

   What a great time we had in Napierville, IL today.  Hats off to DMC 1 on 
the fine job they have done on the new high-output PRV engine. It was a 
pleasure to drive the "Black Beauty" and experience the new headers, exhaust 
system, amd suspension. My thanks to James and Bill Morgan for making this 

I brought two crome powder coated "D" rims to the session. All comments 
pertaining to the newly powder coated rims were very positive. The rims were 
cooked at 600 degrees for 4 days and then powder coated. The stock crome 
color is very close to the original Delorean silver paint. The cost to 
produce these crome powder coated rims is between $70.00 and $75.00 per rim 
including sandblasting.

Dave Swingle put together a fast paced, fun filled day with lots to do and 
see. Well done Dave. 



Message: 6
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 14:59:50 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <>
Subject: Re: Great Delorean Day

Uhh - a minor faux paus, Bill - not DMC1 - DeLorean Motor Company 

Some other notes:

In the process of lifting the body from Rich Weissensel's project car 
(in 5 hours Rich and a gang did a rolling frame swap on a car with 
the rustiest frame I've ever seen!) we learned a couple of very 
important lessons:

---If you are not trying to salvage the old frame, a Sawzall(tm) is a 
very helpful tool;

---When working with multiple people, be very clear on the definition 
of "loosen" with respect to body bolts, there's nothing quite like 
seeing/hearing the frame (with the engine still in it!) unexpectedly fall partially out of a DeLorean on a lift;

---When doing a body-off, an in-ground lift has the support posts too 
close together to pull the chassis out. We discovered this with the 
chassis on the ground and the body 6 feet in the air. Can you say "Oh 
s#$%"? Took a lot of sideways dragging but the group was able to get 
it out without further use of the Sawzall. You really want to use a 
twin-post lift for this.

Unfortunately I was too busy to take pictures so they will have to 
come from somewhere else. Luckily Tamir and Bryan were there with 
digital cameras in hand! 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., billschaferabn_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hi,
>    What a great time we had in Napierville, IL today.  Hats off to 
DMC 1 on 
> the fine job they have done on the new high-output PRV engine. 


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 15:01:03 EDT
Subject: Re: DMC Houston


  My apology to DMC Houston on the "Good Delorean Day" post. It had been a 
long day by the time I got the information on the DML.  We truly want to give 
credit to the right vendor. The gang at DMC Houston have done a great job on 
the "Black Beauty". Keep up the good work and thanks for improving the PRV.   
The Delorean community now has a quality engine that will get up and go.



Message: 8
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 16:50:54 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>
Subject: Re: Craig Radio UPDATE

--- In dmcnews, Delorean17 wrote:
> I then spliced into the ACC wire right before it goes inside 
> the radio  housing and it had no power.  So now I know the
> problem is between the connector and the radio.  I removed
> the black covering that is wrapped around  a small circuit board
> looking thing and saw that it was cracked. I sorta squeezed the
> board together and then radio worked perfectly holding its 
> presets.  Can this circuit board thing be replaced?  It is so
> cracked I really don't want to mess with repairing it. 

In theory you can do without this little board, since it is nothing 
more than noise-suppression; it filters out spikes and such from the 
power, so the radio doesn't get as much interference.
There's a good chance Radio Shack or something similar can sell you
an external suppression-board, so you dont have to go fiddling with 
the original. If you do want to keep the original; I have had some 
quite good experiences with soldering peices of stripped wire over 
PCB-tracks. Doesn't look as good, but the repairs I did still hold!
When you have the board fixed, just put it in a little projectbox
(also available at Radio Shack), so it doesn't break again.

Good luck on the repairs,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000



Message: 9
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 11:10:40 -0700
From: "B Benson" <>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor wireing

Look at the forward wall of the driver's side rear wheel well. The wire goes
from the sensor to the forward part of the driver's side wheel well. It
plugs into a wire there which comes from the ECU and runs out into the wheel
well through a large rubber gromet.

Bruce Benson

> My question is, Where does the wire route to as I can not find the other
severed wire or any wire that even goes near it.
> Is there a page in the manual that will show me, cause I can't find that
> May be my finding part of my brain has gone!!!!!!!
> Thanks for helping me find my way
> Paul
> 6463


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 11:43:13 +0000
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: CA Duster

...also makes a smaller version called Mini-Duster for car interior and
around the house.


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 17:01:16 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>
Subject: Re: Electric window

--- In dmcnews, "Paul Salsbury" wrote:
> My drivers side window stopped working today, well stopped
> going up and down... The motor still turns in both the up
> and down direction, however the window stays put. There is
> a clicking sound as if the window has got to its furthest
> point and the gear is slipping.
> Is this repairable?

My guess is that your window is fully upward, yes???
Probably the guide tube has opened up at one of the bends, 
allowing the inner spiral cable thingy to get out of the tube 
and causing the gears of the motor not to be able to push/pull 
on the cable anymore.


Unplug the windowswitch untill you have the time and space to 
take the door apart, get the regulator out and fix everything.
I had this on my car for the first half year of ownership;
when i opened up the door (upper trim panel) and looked inside,
I could see a loop of cable sticking out of the tube.

Whit mine I was able to get the cable back in the tube and 
bend the tube back into shape. I even put a couple of pieces
of tubing (in which I made a slit) around the original to 
prevent it from happening again.
It's been half a year and everything still works!

Good luck on the repair,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000



Message: 12
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 13:54:04 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <>
Subject: Another update on the West Coast Show - September 20-23

   This is a reminder to everyone who has not sent in your registrations for
the big West Coast show that now is the time to do so. I'm able to extend
the registration and t-shirt deadlines for a few more days. It's important I
have these ASAP because I'm going to need to adjust the attendee numbers
with the food and venue people and then pay them. 

Speaking of the t-shirt logo. An example can now be seen at the main page of
the Expo website:

We've made a location to wash your cars prior to the Saturday show at the
rear of the Marriott Hotel, next to where the show will take place. This
will save the time and expense of tracking down a car wash.

There's not enough time to mail out any more registration forms so you'll
need to retrieve a copy from the NCDMC club website. This link will take you
right to the text-only version of the form:

All the major DeLorean vendors will be on hand as will the DeLorean Owners
Association and several individuals selling DeLorean merchandise and
original memorabilia. 

I'm really looking forward to seeing each and every one of you!

Don't miss The 2001 DeLorean/Bricklin West Coast Celebration!!
September 20-23, San Ramon, California
Ken Montgomery, President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club     (916) 944-3252


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 14:00:31 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <>
Subject: Re: buying a delorean for tall person

[MODERATOR NOTE - I know I killed this thread, but I've never heard of this angle on it before.]

Stock I believe you would find it tight.  I am 6'2" and found there was
plenty of head room if I modified the seat slightly.  It takes about 1 hour
and most of that is getting the seat out of the car.

The intent is to remove some of the padding from under your buttocks.  I cut
out a oval hole in the rubber diaphragm.  Then I remove foam from the pad.
I try to remove about an inch of padding and find the seat is much more
comfortable afterwards.  "Comfort" is a relative term but I am very
satisfied with the results, and others have commented that they prefer the

Don Ekhoff

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 11:22 AM
Subject: [DML] buying a delorean for tall person
> I am 6'3", and cannot seem to find any info about height limits for
> drivers. This has been an issue for me before, so I thought I would
> check.
> Thanks for your help


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 22:49:33 -0000
Subject: Running a little rich

Lately, I've noticed more of a fuel smell to my exhaust. It smells 
like it is definitely running rich. Also, when the engine is just 
warming up, I get severe hesitation. The only way I can describe it 
is that it feels exactly like if I was pumping the gas pedal as I 
accelerated. I think I have a bad fuel accumulator coupled with 
either a bad thermo-time switch or control pressure regulator. Any 
thoughts or am I completely off base? 


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 21:00:29 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Q & A on trailing arm bolt replacement

I have noticed on two cars now that the smaller washers on the trailing arm
bolts get crushed a little by the sleeve that runs through the rubber
bushing.  Personally, I don't think this is a good thing to have happen.  It
looks like any compression or wear in this spot will allow the trailing arm
bolts to loosen over time.  On a parts car today I just took the trailing
arm bolt loose from one side and started playing this the rubber bushing.
The rubber was old-looking and the sleeve was off-center, so I pushed the
sleeve out by hand using the TA bolt for a better reach.  Once out, I
noticed that the sleeve was a bit crushed on one end from being tightened
against the smaller washer.  It also looked oval shaped on the end.  So what
is the deal here?  I don't like seeing this amount of crushing.  Do the new
T/A bushings sold by the vendors use a stronger steel sleeve?  I talked with
Rob Grady about replacing the smaller washers.  Since there are two on each
side, he suggested just swapping them around to let a different washer take
the pressure.  He said that it would probably be too expensive to have new
harder washers made up for the small demand that there would be for them.

Since this is a real safety concern y'all make sure all of these questions
get answered on the list.  So often a question gets asked that no one knows
the answer for.  But these questions should be answered:

1) Are the sleeves in the TA bushings sold by the vendors made of the same
soft crushable metal as the OEM sleeves?

2) Considering that the washers and sleeves both crush and wear over time,
would it be prudent to periodically re-torque the TA bolts?  If so, at what

3) Is it better to swap (or replace) the washers to provide an un-worn
surface or would it be just as well to put the washers back exactly as they
were?  Since the washer is already crushed/worn, maybe this has compressed
the metal enough that it won't crush any more?  I'm not a metalurgist (yet).

4) I ordered new T/A bolts.  One came with a lock washer and one did not.
The original configuration on DeLoreans according to the parts manual does
not use lock washers.  Should I or should I not use lock washers on them?
I'm thinking no.

5) If I use a lock washer, where should it go?

6) The trailing arm bushing is held to the frame using two bolts.  On my
automatic transmission car the rear bolts have jamb nuts, the fronts don't.
The OEM bolts on the front are too short for jamb nuts anyway.  On my manual
transmission parts car, all the bolts have jamb nuts.  This may be being too
particular, but has anyone had any success fitting jamb nuts on the front
T/A bushing bolts on a car with an automatic transmission?  I don't see how
this is possible without first removing the transmission.

7) For the record, can someone say what the recommended torque is for the
trailing arm bolts and also for the torque on the optional jamb nut?
According to the service bulletin manual the torque is 55 ft-lbs.  Has this
since been revised?  If I remember correctly, DMC Joe said to torque the
bolt to 60 ft-lbs and the jamb nut to 55 ft-lbs.  Is this still the current

8) For those of you who don't know, the jamb nut on the T/A bolt is an after
thought, and as far as I know, no cars left the factory with them.  Is this

9) Should a lock washer be used under the jamb nut?

10) If anyone has any advice on how to replace the driver's side T/A bolt on
an automatic transmission car then please let me know.  According to Rob
Grady, the way it is done is by taking the trailing arm loose from the hub
carrier.  This involves taking the brake line loose.  Otherwise you have to
drop the transmission, and this is a lot more work.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 21:43:45 -0400
From: "Randy Stribling" <>
Subject: Re: SEDOC Cruise-in

Hi everyone.

We are getting up a caravan from Tampa to drive Friday to the SEDOC cruise
in.  So far I have emailed our Florida Contingent and have only received a
couple of replies.  It appears that, as of today, we only have 2 De Loreans
driving.  I hope to hear from anyone along the way as we will be heading up
I-75 starting around 8-9 am in Tampa.  We should be able to make the jaunt
easy without invoking the "flux" and still stop along the way for
refreshments.  If anyone would like to meet along the way let me know by
email and I will send our cell phone numbers.  See you there.

Randy Stribling, 3228
Walter Coe, 3633


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 22:00:22 EDT
Subject: Service Centers

       I wanted to brag on the service center that I took my beloved DeLorean 
to 5 years ago.
       I bought my DeLorean in the summer of 95 with only 2,000 miles on the 
The car ran but not very good at all. It had set most of it's life as you can 
tell by the number of miles on it that year. Well I bought it and drove it 
and put about 4,000 miles on it,,,during that time like I said it didn't run 
real good,,,,,didn't idle very well,,,got hot but not to hot,,,,just the 
things that normally go bad after being in the garage most of it's life. Well 
I called and search the whole country side for someone close to take a look 
at my girl. Now I've worked on cars my whole life,,and my father and I have 
restored and built a few cars that we still have in our mini-museum but I 
wanted someone that knew the car inside and out that would know little things 
to look for and replace that I wouldn't on a car that I didn't know that well.
       So the name that kept popping up was Rob Grady,,,,,,he went all over 
the brake system, clutch, motor,,,the whole thing and got the car running 
better than new,,,,it is well worth the extra money to have someone that 
knows the car to work on it because here 5 years later,,,,,I go and get in 
that car and it turns over maybe 3 times and fires right up and drives like a 
champ. No Rob didn't pay me but I think that the new owners that are looking 
for SOMEONE to work on their car cheap and trying to find cheap parts should 
consider taking their car to someone who does this full time and knows our 
cars,,,,it's well worth the money to have it done right the first time,,,like 
I said here I am 5 years after Rob worked on my car and I'm still happy with 
what he did,,,,,,,,thanks Rob

            vin: 16709
            lic:  DMC-12

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 02:03:35 -0000
Subject: Aftermarket Steering Wheel

Has anyone here changed to an aftermarket steering wheel?  I am 
considering doing this and ned to get an adapter.  What steering 
column does the D have?



Message: 19
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 23:02:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Deloreans in Indianapolis, Indiana

I have seen, I believe the same Delorean twice on the West side of 
38th Street area.  Anyone own it or knows who owns it.  I also own a D and 
live just a few miles from this area, and I know its not my Delorean driving 
around, unless
it is going out on its own, while I am at work.  Or it could be a BTTF thing, 
I have come back in time and see myself driving.  ( naaa don't think so. )

Dave L.


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 20:50:00 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <>
Subject: RE: 101096

Aaron - according to my inventory I have the part you need - $5.00 plus
$3.95 postage.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 23:45:16 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: hood adjustment

I have a problem with water getting under my hood from the windshield area.
It is particularly a problem from washing the car.  Water splashes from the
windshield and gets in the trunk.

Here is what I have done so far:
Found that gasket was glued in the wrong place.  Removed & replaced gasket.

Found adjustment on hood latch might be too high.  Disassembled and found
that adjustments are already maxed out on their lowest settings.

I tried closing the hood on a dollar bill and the hood does not come down
far enough to grip the dollar at all.  The dollar easily slides out.

Toward the front of the car and on the front sides, the hood grips a dollar
bill just fine.

Compared to the height of the front fenders, the hood is about 6mm too high
on the driver's side and about 3mm on the passenger side.

Am I correct in assuming that the height of the fenders are supposed to be
adjusted to match the door and hood and not the other way around?

What else can I do to make my hood fit tighter to keep water out?  I'm about
ready to file out the adjustment in the latch to make it go lower.  I found
two places for vertical adjustment in the latch mechanism, and both are
already at the end of their travel.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 17:08:08 -0400
From: "Some Nut" <>
Subject: Looking for that D

( Moderators note: Either Tony is new to the list or he's pulling our leg. Tony, look through the archives and also check through the cars for sale in the classified area of the Mailing List web site to get a better idea of the going prices for DeLoreans. )

Hello all,
I've been searching for a D for quite a while now and I'm getting frustrated. They all seem to be quite musty smelling inside. Is leaking a common problem? Also pretty rusty underneath.

It's funny because people selling the cars use words like "Pristine", "Mint", "Absolutely Beautiful". So after schlepping hundreds of miles I find nothing but signs of neglect written all over the car.

I really don't want to go over $20K but so far all the D's I've seen are kinda shabby. Am I being too picky for this price range? 

I have a '91 Buick regal with 176K miles on it and it's in MUCH better shape then these D's I've seen. I understand it's 8 years younger but I've been driving this thing through all four seasons (NY suburbs). But it's just a stinkin' Buick that's been moderately cared for. The inside still smells like leather and it's not a rust bucket.

You'd think a person with a car like a DeLorean would take better care of their car.

Also, what's so great about the upside down (to be viewed from the outside) DeLorean signature on the glovebox? Is this supposed to increase the value? I think it looks terrible.

I'm kinda limiting myself because I'm looking for an '83 stick and I don't want to fly around the country looking for one.

Do you think it's a pipe dream to find a $20K '83 stick DeLorean that's been well cared for (at least been garaged) in the NY, NJ, CT areas?
Thanks in advance for any advice,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 01:49:36 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: DMC clone = Aston Martin Bulldog

I found some photos of a 1980 model Aston Martin prototype that looks
extremely similar to the DeLorean AND it even has *gullwing doors*  The
finish even looks like stainless steel.  And to beat all, Mike Loadsby did
the initial engineering work on it before he quit to work for DeLorean.
Surely this has been mentioned on the DML before?  duh?

This is the link to the specific page on the site.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:00:32 -0000
Subject: Re: Looking for that D

Well, in all fairness, just about every DeLorean that you will see 
has been in storage for some period of time. Some times the musty 
scent can just be from old body oil. This can happen with any car. If 
your present vehicle is a daily driver, than it's obviously getting 
more fresh air circulated around inside. As an example. The only 
orignal interior items in my car are the glove box lid, carpet, and 
the entire center console. Everything else has been replaced. And 
occasionally yes, there is still that hint of a "musty" smell. But 
regular use is clearing that up. And the last time that happened, my 
car was sealed up in 120+ heat for over 3 days. How to give your car 
that "new car smell" has been a past topic, and it a how-to was 
posted. But as far as "musty" smells go, the topic has never really 
been brought up. If it's not posted here, than it's usually not too 
common a problem. Even I've found here in Vegas, almost every car 
over 4-5 years old will have some sort of odor to it. No exceptions.

If you are not able to find a vehicle within your area that suits 
your needs, then you will need to be prepard to travel. No matter 
what the marquee, passionate, hard-core owners almost always have to 
travel to find that perfect car. If I may also ask, what is it about 
the 1983 series that you prefer? 

As for the quality of cars you are looking at, the big question 
remains: Where are you looking? Up in your neck of the woods, P.J. 
Grady is your best bet since he is so obviously close. On a side note 
as well. If you plan to drive the car year round such as you do with 
your present vehicle, then rust is somthing that you will have to 
prepare for. It may even be time to give your current vehicle a good 
going over on a lift.

Some folks do list cars as being in a better condition then what they 
really are. But this is with almost all cars. Which car you choose is 
going to depend upon what your needs/abilities are. If you want a 
pristine, perfect, turn-key, off the show room floor DeLorean right 
now, expect to kick out about $27-30K. My car is no where near 
concourse. But I can assure you I walked away from the appraiser very 
happy when I took her in!

For $20K, you should have no problem finding a good solid D. She 
might need a little pick-me-up in the cosmetics department, but 
she'll be a good driver. But if you do hold high standards for the 
car, expect to put in more footwork, if not money. If you want a car 
that's been loved and taken care of, start looking in places where 
people who love and care for thier car's gather. Take it from me. 
Quick newspaper ads, eBay listings, and little "Mom and Pop's Used 
Car-a-Rama" places are probably not gonna have the kinda car you're 
looking for (that doesn't mean there aren't ever exceptions and 
bargan fixer-upper's to be had for other's though). It just depends 
on your standards.

I do wish you luck in your search. But it may take some time to get 
that perfect car that your're looking for. With the type of car 
you're looking for, with your phyisical/monetary requirements, expect 
to put a few more miles on your Buick... Remember, musty, storage 
odors are not nessisarily the sign of a poorly maintained car. If how 
the interior smells is a concern, you do have high standards. But to 
be perfectly honest, there are larger priorities and risks at stake. 
Pine tree air fresheners will always be cheaper than parts for a 
contaminated fuel system. One word you may want to consider: 

vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Some Nut" <thenutman_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> ( Moderators note: Either Tony is new to the list or he's pulling 
our leg. Tony, look through the archives and also check through the 
cars for sale in the classified area of the Mailing List web site to 
get a better idea of the going prices for DeLoreans. )
> Hello all,
> I've been searching for a D for quite a while now and I'm getting 
frustrated. They all seem to be quite musty smelling inside. Is 
leaking a common problem? Also pretty rusty underneath.


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:00:35 -0000
Subject: Deceleration Problem

Hi Folks,

I'm a newbie to owning a "D", and a newbie to your group.
As an electrical engineer I'm hoping maybe my experience can help 
someone in those areas - but for now I'm the one looking for some 
mechanical help.

My D is having "Deceleration" problems. When cold or hot, it starts 
fine, although the idle hunts slightly. The acceleration is smooth 
and powerful, however on deceleration it "kicks" and feels very 

I suspect a vacuum related problem, but have no real proof of that - 
only that it mimicks the symptoms of a car from years before.

Any suggestions before I seek out a local pro?


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