From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 729
Date: Thursday, October 04, 2001 7:07 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: BTTF Pinball
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <>

2. Solenoids vs actuators / Bob Zilla

3. Re: instrument cluster lights - help!

4. !!Performance airbox questions and worries addressed!! READ THIS!
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>

5. DMCNews Web Updated
From: "David Swingle" <>

6. Re: DeLorean Tour Oct 27 & 28

7. RE: no start problem
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <>

8. Control Pressure Regulator Questions.

9. RE: New Owner Questions
From: Travis Goodwin <>

10. Re: It's not every day that you meet John Delorean....Or is it?
From: Jason Pucci <>

11. Re: no start problem

12. Crazy Binnacle!
From: "Kenneth Kapalowski" <>

13. Speedometer Problems
From: "Mike Allred" <>

14. who was it??
From: Carl <>

15. Re: The DeLorean experience

16. Re: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.
From: "Walter" <>

17. Re: !!Performance airbox questions and worries addressed!! READ THIS!
From: "Walter" <>

18. Re: no start problem
From: "Walter" <>

19. Re: DeLorean Tour Oct 27 & 28

20. Re: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.

21. DeLorean Event Sat & Sun Oct 27th & 28th

22. Re: Speedometer Problems

23. Re: DeLorean Tour Oct 27 & 28

24. Shifting problem
From: "Ed Garbade" <>

25. Re: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 17:06:07 -0600
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <>
Subject: Re: BTTF Pinball

For a BTTF Pinball in top-notch shape, you're looking at around $1,500.

Vin #16353

>as i am now fixing up my delorean i  have very little
>to spend but what is the best price for the btf
>pinball if i picked it up?
>--- wrote:
> > I will be bringing a Back To The Future pinball
> > machine to the Fall
> > Tour this year.

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 21:35:52 EDT
Subject: Solenoids vs actuators / Bob Zilla

When choosing a door opening system it is wise to do it based on the facts 
not speculation.

The question has been posed ( more than once ) as to why we chose not to go 
the actuator route ?

Actuators as a rule are not designed to output sufficient torque to open our 
doors which require an uncommon amount to do the job. EVERY actuator we've 
tested contained an EXTREMELY UNDERSIZED motor and had plastic gears. 

Why are they ALL so cheaply made ?
Having contacted OEM actuator manufacturers I discovered a common thread. 
They are tooled up to produce low cost mostly plastic designs. They aim their 
actuators at the Automotive Industry. Most all the car companies today no 
longer make their own interiors, they farm them out. There is constant 
pressure to keep component cost very very low. This is why interiors today 
are cold and hard instead of the warmer look and feel of years past. As the 
price of cars climb, auto mfrs. squeeze their vendors for lower cost 
interiors. Component costs suffer.  Go figure !

Let's look at Daryl's actuator.
Yes, Daryl's unit is impressive indeed as it is one of the few that can do 
the job at all. Most others are way too wimpy. 
However, our goal is always longevity. Disassembling the doors for service 
issues is a job I prefer to do as infrequently as possible. This is our 
design goal. 
I have no axe to grind with Daryl. 
I am pleased he was able to locate an actuator that works. 

However, again, my concern is product life span.
Although it does work, I am concerned that it is clearly running at the outer 
edge of it's performance envelope. No rocket science needed here. Simply by 
listening to it strain, made me uncomfortable. 
Upon internal inspection you discover, of the 6 very tiny gears, 3 are 
plastic. The motor is 1" long by 3/4" wide. Stop and draw a mental picture of 
this. The gear on the motor shaft is plastic with a 1/4" diameter. Let me 
remind you, you are opening your door with a 1/4" plastic gear. Yes, it's 
lightweight all right. It's nearly weightless. 

For those of us old enough to remember Audio Cassettes, I can tell you that 
these small DC motors that pulled the tape around failed with regularity. 
Product failure analysis was once my domain. There have been few ( if any ) 
advancements in mini 12V DC brush driven motors in the last 30 years. 
So now, the goal is to generate enough torque with a Walkman size motor to 
open our doors for many many years ? 
Well,   you do the math. 
While Daryl is comfortable with this device, I am not. He feels that they 
will stand the test of time based upon his success to this point. I truly 
wish him the best. I don't share his optimism. 

The case for Solenoids:
All solenoids are not created equal. Like actuators, most are not up to the 
task. Make no mistake about it, to open our doors a great deal of force is 
required. Just look at the Door lock Solenoids. The "Launch" solenoids we are 
using are Custom Made & particularly well suited to the task Insuring 
Longevity and the ability to open the door with Authority.

New or old technology ?
There's nothing new about actuators. The concept dates back to the invention 
of the motor itself. Should someone ever create an actuator with all metal 
gears and a motor of reasonable size, then you've got something to get 
excited about. I'm not holding my breath till then as there doesn't seem to 
be a real market to sell it to.
Actuators are filled with highly torqued plastic moving parts. A solenoid has 
exactly 1 hefty moving metal part and unlike actuators, it's action is 
Thoughts on Longevity anyone ? 

No Modifications.
As mentioned on a few occasions, our system does not require ANY headliner 
removal to achieve independent door control. No wires are cut or spliced. No 
wires are run in the headliner or through the door hinge. Everything just 
plugs in with the assistance of the "Launch Controller".

The price of our system ?
Speculation has gone off the deep end. 
The numbers I'm seeing in DML posts are pretty wild !  Kind'a comical in a 
When it is announced shortly, expect to be pleasantly surprised.
The system is due out soon. Please be patient.
Rob Grady's announcements regarding price take into account a complete system 
of MANY different components including Lock / UnLock Solenoids. Remember, it 
is a component system. You may own a good deal of the Zilla system already. 
You may or may not need certain other problems addressed. 

Do not expect hybrid systems of components from different vendors to work 
properly. We will not support hybrid systems. Period.

When you buy a Zilla your money goes right into R&D.
As a result of your continued support you will soon see Zilla devices you 
already own communicating with one another. 
Expect to see Techno Toys that far exceed ANYTHING you've ever seen in ANY 
car regardless of price. 
This is not pie eyed speculation, it is already fact.. These toys already 
exist & are presently in further development. One particular unit has been in 
development for nearly 5 years and is chilling.

As soon as the work is completed on TranZilla ( the upcoming Shift Computer 
for automatics ) a new era in Toy Development will unfold..... 
" when we hit 88 MPH, you're gonna see some serious Sh_ _ ! "     
This is where the real fun begins. 
Zilla Launcher is only the very tip of the iceberg. 

Thank you for making all this possible.
You won't be disappointed

Bob Zilla

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:13:31 EDT
Subject: Re: instrument cluster lights - help!

Andy, If everything was working ok. The check the ground wire coming off the 
volt meter #272 top post on the diagram. Without it , the light won't burn. 
Left side. 
There is a seperate ground wire for the right side. 
John hervey
P.S. What happened on the transmission. 


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:19:52 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>
Subject: !!Performance airbox questions and worries addressed!! READ THIS!

Ok people. I know you all seem to be fretting over some of the design charactaristics of my airbox, so I will address the concerns. If you haven't seen it yet it is on the yahoo DMC picture list. And they are now for sale.

First of all. Won't it get all hot and cause the air in my engine to get hot?
    Ya it is metal, and ya it will conduct heat, but so did the stock plastic one. Metal only has a higher capacity for storing heat than plastic, this does NOT mean it will get hotter. In fact I have found that it doesn't get hotter than about 120 degrees on the hottest part. Which seems to be cooler than the stock one! Also one fact that you all are not realizing is that the air is FLOWING through this box pretty fast, it doesn't sit there. My design has a high volume to surface area ratio, which means there is too damn much air in there to heat up while it flows through there. Remember air is an insulator and just won't be picking up nearly enough heat to matter. If you want I will put an insulator between it and the engine like is used in racing to reflect radient heat, but this is unessesary(especially in a street or show car!) Besides half ot the box is lexan(a type of plastic), not metal, and it is even insulated from the stainless by a thin strip of foam. HEAT CONDUCTI!

What about that breather filter, what's the deal with that?
     Well, it is a breather filter! It filters the air that enters or exits the valve cover. If you are worried about the oem tube running to the engine filter was there so that any oil vapors or what not get burned off is now gone, DON'T. It is true that if vapors come out of there they will get sucked into your engine and burned, but do you really want that? Besides the little bit that could come out of there is soo miniscule it is like saying "the airflow in my engine is disrupted by the gravitational feild on Jupiter" This is a true statement scientifically, but we all know in practice it doesn't matter. THE BREATHER FILTER WORKS FINE AND THERE ARE NO PROBLEMS WITH THIS EITHER.

Where's the lid?
    Look at the picture. It says"lexan top". What is lexan? it is a heat resitant CLEAR plastic(very durable). The answer is THE LID IS THERE , BUT IT IS CLEAR AND YOU CAN'T SEE IT. 

But I want it all stainless!
     No problem! Like any good design, I can simply put on a stainless cover instead of the clear one. Just inquire I can accomodate your every need.

Will it have the DMC logo on it?
 No, sorry, I do not own the rights to that logo, so it will not appear. However if you want you can put one on yourself. The only logo on it will be "Putsch Performance Designs". It is  small, tastefull, and on the side. It can easily be remover if you like.

What does it take to install?
Answer: 15-30 minutes and at least a cresent wrench and a flathead screwdriver. EASY AS PIE No modifications required, you can even use a stock air filter or a modified K&N

Here is the bottom line:
 I have been using this airbox and will never ever go back. Why? IT MAKES MY CAR GO FASTER!! 
How? The engine is LESS RESTRICTED and is now MORE WILLING TO REV and I get BETTER THROTTLE RESPONSE too. Why won't I go back? It makes my car go faster, there are NO DRAWBACKS, and it looks soooooo much better than the origional(like it should be there not like a crappy aftermarket bolt on).

One last word. 

This is an imperfect world. Not everything will be apsolutly perfect! In other words, I have put tons of time into designing an airbox that has no real ill effects, adds horsepower, is pleasing to the eye, doesn't reqire any other modification, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. BASICALLY THIS IS PROBALY THE CHEAPEST AND EASIEST HORSEPOWER YOU CAN BUY FOR A DELOREAN. If you don't want one fine, I'll see you in my rearview mirror.

I do not want to come accross in a mean way, but I want to clear things up. I will do everything in my power to address all of your wants and needs, just ask.

I hope this answers your questions untill my website gets up and running.

Sincerely, Casey at 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 03:46:26 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <>
Subject: DMCNews Web Updated

Finally - I worked thru the backlog of Pictures O' The Month. I just 
put them all up at once since I don't seem to get to it monthly. If 
you submitted something and it's not there, send it again if you want 
because I probably lost it (or didn't like it or it was too fuzzy). 

Other additions - Some more newbie/techie stuff from Les, a corrected 
lock circuit diagram and a fun-to-read theory of operation (i.e. WHY 
the OEM lock module doesn't work very well) from Martin Gutkowski. 
And some more vanity plates. 

And as always, MORE car ads. These come in at the rate of a LEAST one a week. Keep looking.

Dave Swingle <--Webmaster with not enough spare time anymore


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:59:46 EDT
Subject: Re: DeLorean Tour Oct 27 & 28

In a message dated 10/2/01 6:17:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, writes:

> the event starts at PJ Gradys in West Sayville N.Y. 

How's the traffic situation around there, in light of the WTC aftermath?  Any 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 00:33:51 -0400
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <>
Subject: RE: no start problem

	I think that the switch supplies ground, and I am fairly confident
that by vrtue of connecting the wire to ground I would have accomplished the
same thing had I jumped the two wires.  My basic problem is the car will not
start now, and I have some suspicion that it has someting to do with the
idle speed circuit what could it be?
	joe Palatinus
	VIN 17167 6808

> Sounds to me like you gave the switch a good ground - ie the switch wasn't
> the
> problem, but the ground connection


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 11:04:47 -0000
Subject: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.

Ok, recently I've been having some problems with my Control Pressure 
Regulator. Inside, two wires were burnt. The wire that connects 
between the plug and the arm heater, and the wire that connects 
between the arm heater and the thermostat. Replacement of this wire 
shouldn't be a problem. I have some high temp wire (200C), but I'm 
unsure about something. Inside, the wire connections appear to be 
either spotwelded, or crimped into place. It looks as though on the 
wire that burnt, there was some solder used. My question here is what 
kind is it? What ever it is, it appears to be VERY resistant to heat. 
My soldering iron will meld 60/40 rosin core solder like hot butter. 
But the stuff that's inside, it can't even dent.

The second problem that I've been having is poor accelleration on my 
car. When you hit the gas pedeal, the engine doesn't accellerate 
right away. The rev of the engine changes tone, and the car begins to 
lag. A second or two later, the car will get a sudden burst of power. 
It's good enough that it can push you back into the seat a bit. Note 
the engine changes tone, and revs up slowly, and then fast. The revs 
will increase w/speed, so I know this isn't a slipping clutch. When I 
took the CPR off tonight, I noticed something very odd. If I apply a 
vaccum to the side which pushes the arm up (raise fuel pressure), the 
pressure will hold. But if I apply a vaccum to the opposite side 
which lowers the arm (lowers fuel pressure), it seems to be leaking. 
This appears to be a failure in my fuel enrichment circuit. When I 
fully disassembled the unit, I found that the lower gasket was only 

So, my question is this. Is there a service kit that I can pick up 
from my local BOSCH parts/service center? If I could pick up a new 
gasket & wiring, that would be great. If nothing else, just the 
gasket. That way I could seal the lowest chambers for the enrichment 
vaccum. I have enough room to solder everything, but I just don't 
know which type of solder to use. What can I buy that could withstand 
the temperatures of the engine, and where could I pick some up at. I 
really need to get this fixed ASAP. Since unplugging the electrical 
connection on the CPR, my fuel efficency has dropped 40+ miles to the 
tank! I used to fill up _at_dml_ 190-200 miles. My car now has 153 on this 
tank, and the fuel light is on!

vin 6585


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 08:49:41 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <>
Subject: RE: New Owner Questions


3)  What should my oil pressure read?  Right now mine is reading just 
over 80, which I am betting is not normal.

Yes, or you can get a new oil pressure sender that is more accurate (This link seems broken right now)


Mine has this problem too. It reads over 80 at all times. There's quite a
range of prices on the sender unit. PJ Grady: $42.30, DMC Houston: $67.83,
Delorean One: $89.93, Mid State DMC Club: $35.00. Has anyone bought these and possibly know the


6)  My car runs well enought, but it has an acceleration hesitation 
that is severe when the engine is cold, and mild when the engine is 
warm.  By hesitation, I mean opening the throttle tends to choke and 
kill the engine, rather than accelerating it.  Perhaps it just needs 
some adjustment or a tune-up?  Do DeLorean owners, either with or 
without help from various DeLorean service centers, ever get together 
and have tune-up parties?

Was the car stored?  You may have some contaminates in the fuel
system... among a dozen or so other possibilities!
There are probably some others on the list who can give you more
information on this. Your best bet is to search the list archives.


I too have this problem. I have replaced the filter and will be replacing
the fuel accumulator (although I think this will more than likely fix my
warm start problem). The control pressure regulator and thermo-time switch
work in conjunction as the engine's choke, controlling the fuel enrichment.
These will be my next steps... 


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 06:43:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jason Pucci <>
Subject: Re: It's not every day that you meet John Delorean....Or is it?

 I, too, had a chance encounter w/ John DeLorean in Bedminster several years ago,  and he was very pleasant and willing to talk.  I was not in my D (nor did I own it) at the time, but a friend and I saw him driving, pulling into the local post office in a then-new S Class Mercedes.  The three of us talked for a few minutes.  I assume he's still in the area?  I am in Summit.
  Joseph Molino <> wrote: what else did he tell you. I live in Madison and am cuirous abuot where he
is and what he is doing?

Joseph Molino
Vin 2850

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Abato" 
Subject: [DML] It's not every day that you meet John Delorean....Or is it?

> Thats right, I bumped into none other then....John Z. Delorean!


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 14:09:59 -0000
Subject: Re: no start problem

I think you have 3 problems here.
1 Bad quality idle
2 Need for a tune-up
3 Bad battery and or charging system
 You need to tackle them one at a time so "Divide and conquor." First 
the engine needs to run so charge the battery, clean all of the "big" 
wires and terminals get the engine started and test the charging 
system and battery. Next, if the car hasn't been tuned-up in a long 
time replace all of the usual items, spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, 
rotor, fuel filter, air filter, oil, oil filter,etc. This should 
improve the idle quality and gas mileage. If it doesn't check the 
timming and fuel mixture adjustment. Shorting the idle switch to 
ground shouldn't harm anything execpt tell if the switch is working. 
It may only need to be adjusted so the linkage pushes it at idle 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> My 81 auto was stallling a little bit for a while, and it would take 
a little while to turn over as well.  It tended to stall just sitting 
in the driveway running. any ideas or thoughts on the subjct would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Joe Palatinus
> VIN 17167 6808


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 12:07:01 -0400
From: "Kenneth Kapalowski" <>
Subject: Crazy Binnacle!

Hello all ...
My binnacle instrument cluster is acting up ..
just wondering if anyone has some suggestions or fixes ... i heard that
perhaps grounding the display cluster to the steering column may help ..
but i am unsure of this ..
basically what happens is :
my Tachometer will sometimes "bounce" around and show a higher reading
eg.. i will have it at roughly 2500 rpm and it will show around 5000 rpm
as well .. my temperature guage tends to work when it wants to ..
and just a quick note .. when i turn the car off .. the tach and temp
gauges "spin" 
and then rest at odd locations .. different every time ...
thanks for any help guys!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:19:55 -0700
From: "Mike Allred" <>
Subject: Speedometer Problems

Speedometer Problems
My speedometer just stopped working and I'm not sure why. I know that there
are several components but can someone tell me what is the most likely to go
bad. When I pulled the wheel off everything looked fine but obviously isn't.


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 18:32:57 +0100
From: Carl <>
Subject: who was it??

I am gutted!  My son walked to the bus this morning going to school and saw 
someone get into a Delorean (stainless) and drive away!  On MY street!


Carl    Pantymwyn, N.Wales


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:39:21 EDT
Subject: Re: The DeLorean experience

Just curious, but you're *16* and you're driving a DeLorean?  There
are a whole bunch of other 16 year olds that would love to be
in your place...why get rid of it?  I'm sure there are things you
could work on with it in the future...and how long have you been
restoring cars at 16 anyway?

Just a little dumbfounded, :)



Message: 16
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:30:55 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.


The acceleration lag that you are describing is typical of a bad Control
Pressure Regulator.  I had corrosion in the electrical connection of mine.
The cold acceleration that resulted made the car hesitate at lower RPMs, but
once past a threshold of around 2000 RPMs then the car would accelerate
fine.  Replacing the plug on the wiring harness and cleaning up the socket
on the CPR fixed the problem.  To keep moisture out of there, I packed it
with secondary ignition dielectric grease.

On two previous occasions, I had a similar acceleration problem due to my
frequency valve not working.  Once from a bad lambda relay and then later
from a corroded electrical connection at the plug on the valve.  So on your
car, you might want to listen for the valve to be sure it is running.  When
I had a bad connection at the valve, I could still hear it buzzing, but the
volume would get louder when I giggled the connection.

It sounds like your poor fuel mileage is due to running too rich because of
the CPR.  Don't do too much driving like this because it can overheat your
exhaust system.  It can make your catalytic converter glow and melt the
webbing, and it can damage your muffler.  I know of a guy who had to replace
his muffler because it was heat damaged from the engine running too rich.
His heat shield is a mess, and I'm wondering if this was also due to the
excessive heat.

While trying to diagnose my bad lambda system long ago, I was able to
compensate for it by leaving a hand vacuum pump connected to the
acceleration enrichment port of the CPR.  To start the car while cold, I
would have to lift the engine cover and squeeze the pump until the hose
collapsed.  Then by the time the car warmed up, the vacuum would leak off.
I wouldn't recommend this.  The pump was plastic and the ambient heat from
the engine melted it.

As for fixing the internals of the CPR, I know that rebuilt ones at a local
Bosch parts dealer cost $87 with exchange.  Before I knew better, I paid a
specialist $500 for one with about another $250 in labor.  That was before I
had the manuals and the DML!  If you are successful at finding a rebuild
kit, please let us know!  I have not seen the inside of a CPR, but I can
venture to guess that the solder connection that you cannot melt is probably
a weld connection.  The heating element wire is a nickel-chromium wire that
can glow red hot without melting.  This would quickly melt the typical 40/60
tin/lead solder.  You can probably weld this connection with a high
temperature solder commonly used in refrigeration plumbing, but there
probably isn't enough room in there for a welding torch.  It takes an open
flame to melt that stuff or a very tiny electric welder made for that kind
of work.  I would opt for a high temperature crimp barrel connector.  It is
just like the ones you would buy at an automotive store except they are made
to take extreme temperatures.  You can find them on the shelf at most
refrigeration supply stores or even Grainger.

I'm curious to know if the diaphragm can be replaced with a fuel resistant
piece of gasket material.  But again, I've never seen inside a CPR (yet), so
I'm taking a guess here.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:33:24 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: !!Performance airbox questions and worries addressed!! READ THIS!


I have another question about your new air box:
You make it so that it can take an OEM filter, but then it can take a
modified K&N filter?  What kind of modification is required?  Why don't you
just make the air box to take a K&N filter and forget about the OEM size?

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:41:01 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: no start problem


You say:

> My 81 auto was stallling a little bit for a while, and it would take a
> little while to turn over as well.

Do you have your nomenclature in order?  In general automotive lingo, to
"turn over" means to turn the crank in the engine either by hand to by use
of the starter.  To take you literally, it sounds like you have a problem
with either your starter or battery.  If your car tends to stall, perhaps
your alternator isn't putting out enough juice at low RPMs.  Then it takes a
little while to turn over because the battery is discharged.  But I don't
see how this has anything to do your idle speed switch.  Are we on the same

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 19:05:56 -0000
Subject: Re: DeLorean Tour Oct 27 & 28

If you are comming from the south the Holland Tunnel remains closed to 
esatbound traffic so the Verrazzano to the Belt Pkwy is probably the 
best route. From the west the George Washington Bridge is OK as is the 
Cross Bronx Expwy. From the North take the Tappan Zee into 95. In 
general you must avoid lower Manhattan as even if you could go through 
to the Midtown Tunnel you don't want to face the traffic. Early on 
Saturday morning (to get to Rob's shop by 10 am you will be going 
through midtown about 1-1 1/2 hours earlier) the traffic should be 
light. Going home on Sunday night could be another problem. You will 
encounter all of the traffic returning from out on the Island so 
prepare for a long drive! The L.I.E. is known as the world's longest 
parking lot, a well earned reputation! Perhaps some members want to 
join up at strategic points and caravan in. I suggest you use a family 
band walkie-talkie so we can help each other. I will be on channel 
12-2 but they have a limited range.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 10/2/01 6:17:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> turbodmc_at_dml_h... writes:
> > the event starts at PJ Gradys in West Sayville N.Y. 
> How's the traffic situation around there, in light of the WTC 
aftermath?  Any 
> problems?
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 19:14:58 -0000
Subject: Re: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.

The CPR is considered a non-repairable part. Some members have had 
success in repairing it but I don't think that there are any service 
parts available for it except as a complete assembly. Since it is a 
fuel system part most would not consider trying to repair but would 
just replace once sure it is defective. The connections were probably 
spot-welded but you could use solder. Silver solder would be better 
but I don't think needed. Once you get the CPR going you may find you 
have other problems causing poor acceleration, you may need a fuel 
mixture adjustment for instance.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 20:24:46 -0000
Subject: DeLorean Event Sat & Sun Oct 27th & 28th

You don't need a DeLorean to participate BTW!

The Fall Foliage Tour is in less than a month now and will be  
the last and biggest DeLorean event left this year. 

Some of the highlights include PJ Gradys. The Hamptons, Montauk 
Deloreans Bricklins and more DeLoreans.
A road rally on Shelter Island and a winery tour on the North Fork of 
Long Island.
Note: Rob & Debbie Grady will not only be at PJ Gradys but also 
joining us for the rest of the tour thus Rob will be on hand to answer 
questions and advise us about our cars.
David Teitelbaum is planing to bring his Back To The Future pinball 
machine and other events are also in process. 

You don't need a DeLorean to participate.
There are some very inexpensive airfares from all over the country 
right now.
And you can fly into the Islip airport not far from PJ Gradys (where 
the Tour starts).

I do need people who are thinking of going to contact me so I can get 
an idea of the number of people who will be there.
Please e-mail me privately at 


Michael DeLuca
Vin 3113


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:54:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Speedometer Problems

Mike, you must not have had your D long, or you've been very lucky.  Everyone 
has the angle drive for the speedometer crash sooner or later (it was made by 
Jaguar ... what could you expect?).  A less likely cause is the center 
segment of the three-part speedo linkage, but the likeliest cause is the 
angle drive.  Not cheap, but at least it is accessible and relatively easy to 
replace.  Good luck!

Paul Feine
# 10944


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 20:58:34 -0000
Subject: Re: DeLorean Tour Oct 27 & 28

PJ Gradys is about 40 Miles outside Manhattan.
There are currently no problems with traffic here on Long Island
(aside from the usual congestion) as a result of the recent tragedy
at the trade center.

People coming from the south should use the Varrazanow Bridge, which 
has remained open with no appreciable impact.
If you are coming from the north the Throgs neck and white stone 
bridges have been heavy but ok on the weekends. 

Typically I would not recommend gaining access to Long Island Via 
Manhattan at any time and I would urge people to avoid Manhattan
rightnow because that area is still a traffic mess.

Ferry service is available from New England,  e-mail me _at_dml_ if you need that info.

The event itself will be about 100 miles from the city, you will be
no where near the trade center or the city.
The part of long Island you will be going through is like nothing you 
have seen in New York before.

It was suggested to me that we all display American flags on our cars 
and I like that idea.

I was not going to preach about the tragedy but I will say this and I 
hope the moderators will let it through.

We as civilized people must not succumb to Terrorists and fear, I
have not canceled this event because I think as a New Yorker and an 
American we must go on and live our lives to the fullest and not in 
fear. To do anything less is letting the terrorist win and succeed in 
their mission.

I hope to see many of you there, last year we had people from 7
states show up, it would be nice to have people from more then 7 
states this year.


Michael DeLuca
Vin 3113



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 10/2/01 6:17:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> turbodmc_at_dml_h... writes:
> > the event starts at PJ Gradys in West Sayville N.Y. 
> How's the traffic situation around there, in light of the WTC 
aftermath?  Any 
> problems?
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 17:05:44 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <>
Subject: Shifting problem

I believe I have a linkage problem but wanted to ask for input before I
"Jump" into the task.  I'm sorry to say I have trashed 2 transmissions
working on vehicles (a Ford and Chevy some years ago and both automatics) so
I am overly cautious before I mess with one.

I can not get my D into 5th gear.  Everything else seems to work OK as far
as the other gears go.  Shifts well (have girnded it a little in 1st a
couple times), runs smooth, and performs fine.  The car has 36k miles on it
and I changed the gear oil about 3k miles ago (in April).  This particular
issue is relatively new since prior to a few weeks ago I could get it into
5th but had problems getting it into reverse (btw the lift and shift
function into reverse never worked for me).  I could get it into all gears
before this happened though it just took a little effort getting it in
reverse and 5th.

When I try and push it into 5th, it feels like I hit something solid (thus
my assumption it is a linkage adjustment) but it has absolutely no effect on
the drive train (no decelleration or grinding).

I searched through the archives and found a couple of interesting notes that
might help.  Unfortunately their wasn't enough detail in them to help me
feel confident to under take this "opportunity".  In any case one post
mentioned that a detailed set of instructions for adjusting the linkage
would be posted to the Vault in July of 2000
( but the link mentioned
is dead and if it was posted I could not find it.

One more thing.  My antenna quit retracting/extending.  The motor runs to
raise/lower it but the antenna remains in the current position.

As always, your assistance is appreciated.

Ed Garbade
VIN 10541


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:02:09 -0000
Subject: Re: Control Pressure Regulator Questions.

I had a similar problem with my CPR valve...the wires inside were 
burnt and broken. The wires are "spot-weleded" to the connectors... 
the wires are fused to the connectors and not soldered. I've tried 
repairing mine with teflon coated wire and was disapointed...the 
electrical was working (after repairing it) but the actual 
mechanical valve did not was jammed. I bought a rebuilt 
unit from for $150, might want to look into it.



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