From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 731
Date: Saturday, October 06, 2001 2:36 AM

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Problem closing door (warped???)

2. mark cooks e-mail
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>

3. Re: instrument cluster lights - help!
From: "William F. Lane" <>

4. Re: Shifting problem

5. Re: Crazy Binnacle!

6. Control Pressure Regulator Update.

7. Re: instrument cluster lights - help!

8. Re: Performance Airbox site finished, go there
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <>

9. airbox performance numbers
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>

10. Re: It's not every day that you meet John Delorean....Or is it?

11. Latest on the Sunstar Model - October 4
From: James Espey <>

12. DeLorean for sale
From: "Michael Dixon " <>

13. Air intake/idle speed regulator
From: "Rob van der Veer" <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 01:48:57 -0000
Subject: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)


I have almost the exact problem on my passenger door. The SS isn't 
hitting the GRP, but the doorguide and latch DO rub against the end 
of the rear striker-pin.

Here are the problems: (knowing that each latch actually latches 

1) The rear doorguide and latch rub against the end of the rear 
2) slowly closing from the center of the door, the front latch (first 
latch)catches first.
3) Then the (first latch) of the rear door catches after another 1/4-
1/2" of pushing.
4) Then the (final latch) of the front latch latches.
5) I have to push the rear of the door in (HARD) in order to have the 
rear (final latch) latch.

If I slam the door pretty hard, everything closes and latches, but 
the front of the door is 'in' (closer to the car) too far compared to 
the rear of the door. It's just like the door is BENT, so the front 
is bent in closer than the rear. Is this from people closing the door 
from the inside by grabbing the door handle and pulling down, in, and 
TOWARDS them? Or maybe from people closing the door from the outside 
by pushing on the FRONT of the door instead of center?

If I want to close the door from the inside, it is MUCH easier to do 
if I pull the door handle DOWN and IN while pushing FORWARD a little 
bit. Otherwise the door has to be slammed to get it to latch.

And when I open the door with the latch release, you can tell the 
rear latch is under a lot of tension because it springs open like 
there is a lot of tension there.

On the other hand, my driver's door: PERFECT. Comes down straight, 
both latches hit at EXACTLY the same time. It is perfectly centered, 
and EASY to close and open.

PLEASE HELP! Do I have a bent/warped door? Is there a way to fix 
this? Does anyone else have this problem? Is this just normal on some 
cars? I'm afraid this will only get worse.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> Since replacing the inner door seals on my car I've noticed the 
> Driversside door doesn't close the way it is supposed to.


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 23:37:42 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>
Subject: mark cooks e-mail

I don't know about you all, but I have had problems when getting e-mail from Mark Cook. When ever I try to select the e-mail it freezes my outlook express. Even in the deleted items folder! So if your out there Mark, I don't know what's the matter or how we can fix it. But untill then I cannot read your e-mail.

Sincerely, Casey at 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 22:19:19 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <>
Subject: Re: instrument cluster lights - help!


Make sure that the lands where the wiring harnesses plug in are in good
shape and are not loose from the mylar backing and make sure your wiring
harnesses are plugged in completely.

Bill Lane


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 05:04:41 -0000
Subject: Re: Shifting problem

Ed, I had the same problem. It turned out to be the rim of the 
shifter boot was a little larger than the original plastic.It 
wouldn't let the shifter go over far enough. So I cut down a little 
and adjusted the upper part of the shifting mechanism and that was 3 
years or so ago. Works fine.
John Hervey


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 05:21:30 -0000
Subject: Re: Crazy Binnacle!

Kenneth, This is hard to diagnoise without being there to check 
several things. There are about 8 to 10 grounds coming off the dash . 
If you read diagrams, eliminate them one by one to find the problem. 
Example, Does your high beam and left turn signal work ok. That's 
one. And just go around.Is the connector making good contact. Plug 
and unplug it a time or two to clean the contacts. Since the tach is 
feed with voltage from #5 fuse ( green wire ), it is feed with 
voltage from accessory relay. You could be looking at a dirty contact 
or bounce. 
If you like email me privatly to discuss futher.
John hervey

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kenneth Kapalowski" <delorean_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hello all ... My binnacle instrument cluster is acting up ..


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 05:59:48 -0000
Subject: Control Pressure Regulator Update.

Ok, here's an update to things, and an explanation of how the CPR 

The case of the CPR is 3 pieces. The fuel diaphram is a small peice 
which screws into the top piece of the case. This is also where all 
of the electrical components are mounted by a single bolt. Here the 
electrical plug is held onto the case by a large "C" clip. You can 
see it by looking at the outside of the CPR.

The next metal piece contains the housing for the vaccum 
diaphram/push rod. The center has places for 2 spings that fit inside 
each other. The outer spring rests on the casing, while the inner 
spring rests on the nub of the vaccum diaphram. On top of both of 
these springs is a "cap", with a cone-shaped indentaion. The rod sits 
in the bottom of the cone, and the other end connects to the fuel 
diaphram. And the cap itself pushes against the bi-metal arm. The 
chamber that is created here is not sealed. Above is the opening that 
allows ambient air inside.

Now, on the bottom of the second peice, there is a divied area that 
takes the shape of a circle. In the center of this area is the metal 
portion of the diaphram. On the side of the area is an opening to the 
outside where one of the vaccum lines connects to (hose w/vaccum 
delay valve). A large gasket is installed here between the 2nd and 
3rd pieces. But, the gasket doesn't just go around the edges. The 
gasket runs around the round area that divides 2 chambers. This 
portion of the gasket then extends tightly around the metal portion 
of the diaphram, and thus forms the flexable membrane that makes up 
the diaphram.

The thrid peice of the CPR case has another outlet on it that 
connects to the other half of the vaccum hose. This and a matching 
circle on the botom to press against the gasket to seal the membrane 
to make the diaphram (upper vaccum chamber). The outer gasket seals 
to create the lower vaccum chamber.

The electrical I'm a bit skeptical on. What I first thought was 
solder,turn out to be where the burned wires hat gotten so hot, they 
melted and fused together! I'll try my best to explain how the 
circuit works, with what I've found on my damaged one. The hot wire 
comes in, and passes thru part of the heating element. It then goes 
out, and connects to a thermostat. Afterwhich, the next wire connects 
back into the heater (same heating element, but I'm guessing to be a 
2nd circuit within), and then leaves thru the 2nd wire on the plug. 
Now just in case there is any confusion, this is only a guesstimation 
on my part. Like I said before, the wires were so badly damaged, they 
had melted strands together to make a single single ball of metal. 
But, and interesting fact here is that the internal thermostat that 
controls the heater is adjustable! Perhaps someone had set the temp 
wrong on my CPR, and the unessisary extra time to allow the circuit 
to become energized is what overheated the wires.

I'm not going to go into how this unit works specificly. It is 
something that has been posted before, and can easily be found in the 
archives. I'm not lazy or anything like that, I'm just trying to 
avoid repatition.

My results. Upon closer inspection in the daylight, it is correct 
that the connections to the plug are spot welded. Other connections 
in the circuit are spade connectors that are crimped to wires. There 
is no solder. I was told by a friend that I can replicate a small 
spot welder if I take a flash camera, and connect wires to the leads 
for the flash bulb. He swore up and down that it can fuse penneies 
together. Honestly, I'm not quite feeling like MacGyver right now, so 
I'm going to skip this. Plus I am not 100% sure of the electrical 

But I must say that I can be hard headed like that, and will try 
things reguardless. Utilizing a 230 watt soldering gun, and some 
heavy duty electrical solder with a melting point of 460F, I 
attempted to repair things anyway. Solder did NOT want to stick to 
anything inside! I couldn't even tin the wires! So to get wires to 
connect, I had to "booger weld" them. Amazingly I got everything 
together, and reassembled, and managed to keep things seperate, and 
away from the casing. While reinstalling the CPR, I broke the small 
hollow bolt off inside the CPR!!! I can't figure out why since it 
wasn't as tight as the larger bolt, and I was able to back the bolt 
out with one fingertip. I am only guessing this is an omen, and my 
car is firmly telling me, "NO! Don't do that!"

So a new unit it is! Tomorrow I'll go the local authorized BOSCH 
service center to see what I can do about getting a rebuilt CPR. Or 
even a repair kit. I drove over to a close BOSCH parts supplier, and 
they said that they have never heard of a reapir kit for the CPR on 
any car w/K-Jetronic. Obviusly there has to be one if a Service 
Center is able to rebuild everything. I went to, but 
they didn't have anything for the DeLorean, yet alone a rebult CPR 
for the Volvo (but I will note that prices for some parts are alomst 
DOUBLE what they are from DeLorean vendors). I'll check a bit deeper. 
Which if anyone knows, why is it that AutoZone,, and 
every other person in the word will have listings for obscure cars 
like DeSotos, Studebakers, Lotus', Packards, etc.. but not 
DELOREAN!?! I've never even seen either of these cars in person, let 
alone seen anyone buying parts for them!

Anyhow, I hope this helps a bit. If anyone has any questions, let me 
know, and I'll answer them as best I can.

vin 6585


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 02:24:01 EDT
Subject: Re: instrument cluster lights - help!

In a message dated 10/4/01 10:15:28 AM Central Daylight Time, 

> Andy, If everything was working ok. The check the ground wire coming off the 
> volt meter #272 top post on the diagram. Without it , the light won't burn. 
> Left side. 
> There is a seperate ground wire for the right side. 

John, where does the wire go for the right side that connects the low beam 
and right-blinker indicators?  the wire is in the wiring diagram however 
there is no color labeled for it!!!!  does this wire eventually go that big 
cluster of grounds connected to the radio bracket thing way behind there?  
where does it go between the PCB board and there?

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 08:52:06 +0200
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <>
Subject: Re: Performance Airbox site finished, go there

> I finally got the site done. It is called Putsch Performance Designs. You'll
> find my airbox there along with lots of info on it.
>   Casey,

Hi Casey,

Nice site and a very nice designed airbox filter!
I was just wondering. Because the design is higher than the stock one, wouldn't it touch your engine cover?



Message: 9
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 11:02:11 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>
Subject: airbox performance numbers

Yes, I do claim that this is the cheapest and easiest horsepower you can buy
for a Delorean. I know this to be true because, I have yet to find something
I can do to the car to make it more powerfull for a mere 250$. The only
other cheaper way is remove the cat, but this would be and absolute b%$ch of
a job and illegal to boot. As far as the easy part, I mean come on, You can
put it on in like 20 minutes with at least 2 tools and not even get dirty.
    Now, as far as the nitty gritty numbers, at the time being I only have
cross sections on my site to show the difference and hopefully people that
know anything about flowing fluids should see how this will be better. I
have not yet dynoed my car, because I would first have to find one(and I am
not going to do an engine dyno, no way I am removeing the engine for this),
I'd have to do it a the rear wheels. And quite frankly Id rather not strap
my baby up and let some goof whoop on it and I doubt you would to. However,
I guess I will to make you all feel better. Untill then I will not guess on
numbers, but I will tell you this: I instantly noticeds the difference, I
had much better throttle response and the car was now much more willing to
run up to redline. She reved more smothly and it felt as though the engine
was not choked off as with the old one. I myself am sooo  pleased with the
results, I will never ever put my old on back on(except maybe to dyno the
Also, this was on a stock motor with 30k and in perfect tune. The results
will be even more impressive for someone who has internaly modified their
car. The reason is a modified car needs even more flow than a stock one and
anything you can do will help just that much better.

Now, as far as , Will I have to have my air fuel mixture adjusted since this
airbox flows more? The answer is NO. Why? Because since you have a bosch CIS
system, that diaphram meters how much air goes into the car and the
injection system gives more fuel for how much air goes in. I would suggest
that if your car hasn't been tuned in a while, you may want to make sure it
is adjusted correctly. Anyway, basically up to a certain point you can not
get to much air(before the metering diaphram). Besides, this airbox only
greatly reduces restriction, it is not a supercharger and does not deliver

My airbox works because it now allows the engine to get all the air it
wants. It would like be trying to run a marathon just breathing through your
nose, I am sure you's all do better if you breathed through your mouth,
since you can get the air you need.

I suggest that all you skeptical people wait to see what the people that are
getting them from me have to say.
I hope that this answers your questions untill then.

Sincerely, Casey at


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 13:43:26 EDT
Subject: Re: It's not every day that you meet John Delorean....Or is it?

In a message dated 10/4/01 12:58:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, writes:

> Joseph Molino <> wrote: what else did he tell you. I 
> live in Madison and am cuirous abuot where he

At Ken's show last year, after he left the Bedminister estate, his daughter 
said he was living in Moorestown, (sp?) NJ, still using the same Pluckemin 
P.O. Box. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 11:44:35 -0600
From: James Espey <>
Subject: Latest on the Sunstar Model - October 4

Just received an email from the Managing Director at Sunstar America and he
says that all containers coming in to the US are being delayed by Customs
for inspection in light of the recent terrorist events. He says the delay
may be 2-3 weeks. As soon as he updates me, I will pass it on, as he is
unclear what this means regarding when they will ship them to their

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 



Message: 12
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 13:07:36 -0500
From: "Michael Dixon " <>
Subject: DeLorean for sale

I hate to do this but I must sell my beautiful 1982 Delorean. It 
is in next to perfect condition. It's currently located in Houston 
at Delorean Motor Company.  If interested you can contact Stephen 
for details at (281)568-9573 tell him you want to know about Aaron 
Dixon's Delorean. 


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 20:37:21 +0200
From: "Rob van der Veer" <>
Subject: Air intake/idle speed regulator

Hi List,

I have a couple of questions, and I hope one of you can help me.

I am one of the lucky owner with a freeflow exhaust modifications (done
before my ownership), with the sideeffect that the exhaust manifest stove
has been removed (see section 1.4.0, partnumber 33 of the parts reference).
I wonder what effect this would have one the engine's performance.

1) I am no expert on mechanics, but would it be better to have cold or hot
air entering the engine?

When I start the car when it hasn't been running for 8 hours or more, the
engine instantly fires at cranking, but then almost chokes itself. It then
revs up to about 2000 RPM and almost stalls again. Most of the time it just
keeps doing this for about 4 minutes and then the engine smoothes out and
runs fine, which a very good C/O rating. On very few occasions it stalls and
I have to restart it. I have some theories I want verified.

2a) Because the engine tries to balance itself it seems that the E.C.U. is
2b) The fuel pump is working o.k. and the engine fires instantly, therefore
fuel is not a problem. IMO, it has something to do with the airflow.
2c) Because the car idles fine when in warmed-up condition, the idle speed
regulator should be ok.
2d) could it be the thermistor in the coolant distribution pipe (D:05:02,
fig. 38 of the workshop manual)?
2e) what would be the effect of a disconnected or malfunctioning idle speed
regulator during cold AND warm conditions of the engine?
2f) would it have something to do with question one?
2g) could some of these hoses be clogged?

There are more reasons for these questions: first, I don't want to take
apart things that are working properly and secondly, I want to learn about
the workings of the engine. Please feel free to mail me personally if you
reply is too long or inappropriate for the list.




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