From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 734
Date: Tuesday, October 09, 2001 2:51 AM

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There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: any NJ DMC owners?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Re: How to add a fuel pressure monitor
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>

3. Striker pin modification (was warped door)
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

4. Schematic
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

6. Re: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

7. Cincy DeLorean Parts
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>

8. RE: airbox performance numbers
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

9. Washed my engine, now idle hunts
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

10. Convex side mirror FAQ
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

12. Ken's Dent!?
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>

13. Re: airbox performance numbers
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

14. Re: Shifting problem
From: edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com

15. floppy mirrors
From: nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com

16. Rheostat Interchange?
From: nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Washed my engine, now idle hunts
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: airbox performance numbers
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

19. Re: Striker pin modification (was warped door)
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 03:26:39 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: any NJ DMC owners?

There are many "D" owners in NJ. If you are REALLY interested in 
buying a Delorean I suggest you get to the Fall Tour in Long Island 
this month. You will see more Deloreans than you ever saw in your life 
 (some for sale) and also meet many owners from the Tri-State area and 
one of the largest and origional Dealers. The known electrical 
problems you refer to all have upgrades available. There are other 
weak areas of the car to upgrade as well and if you come to the 
"source" Rob Grady and others will show you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "dan g." <copper_trace_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I live in Manahawkin, NJ ... I don't have a
> DeLorean...yet.
> 
> I was interested in meeting some local DMC owners or
> talking to them on AIM or Yahoo and getting to know
> more about the car, its idiosyncrasies and how to go
> about making a wise purchase decision when I go to





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 01:01:57 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>
Subject: Re: How to add a fuel pressure monitor

At 7:20 PM -0400 10/7/01, Walter wrote:

>
>I think it is a bad idea to use an electronic sending unit.  Sure, it gives
>the advantage of being able to install a gauge in the cockpit, but this is
>really unnecessary.  I'm planning on installing a liquid filled mechanical
>gauge in the engine compartment.  If or when I really need to know the fuel
>pressure, I can just look in the engine compartment.  I don't need to know
>the pressure while driving.  Summitracing.com has a decent one in their
>catalogue that should do nicely.

Well, as I said, this is part of a larger project to build a 
comprehensive vehicle monitoring and informatics system. I don't 
actually intend to install a fuel pressure gauge as such in the 
cockpit (although there will probably be a way to view a graph of 
fuel pressure over time on a general display). The pressure will be 
continuously monitored (along with a lot of other vehicle parameters) 
automatically--hopefully detecting problems before they become 
serious. So in my case an electric sender is a necessity.  A 
mechanical gauge would be cool too, though.

>
>
>Do you think that there is an advantage by tapping off of the fuel
>distributor rather than on the side of the control pressure regulator?  They
>both look to be about the same distance from mounting it to the firewall.

Toss up. Pressure's the same at both ends of the hose :-).  Be 
careful, though: there are a bunch of different size banjo bolts in 
the fuel system.  If I remember correctly, the CPR end of that hose 
is 10mm.

>
>I think there is a market for putting together such a kit to save people the
>trouble of hunting down all the weird fittings.  What do you think?


Sure. Go for it!  I want a 10% royalty on all sales after the first 
million.  :-)

I myself prefer to let Bob and Darryl and John and you (and all the 
others) slowly go broke helping the rest of us maintain and improve 
our beloved cars. Bless you all!

Cheers,

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703
-- 
  --pete



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 00:05:29 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Striker pin modification (was warped door)


Does anyone know the precise difference between a 1981 Striker and an 82? Is
this a modification that could be done on a lathe using the 81 pins? Can an
81 pin be cut to resemble the 82?  Mike, you indicated that yours were
chamfered and cut, could you elaborate on this please? Thanks.
Rustproof
vin 1559




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:34:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Schematic

Hey guys - I just received the Schematic that Bob
"Zilla" is offering to raise money for the Michael J.
Fox Foundation.  Let me share some thoughts with you. 


First, the schematic is an awesome piece of work. 
Since I live in a very small town in the mountains of
Colorado, I don't have daily access to a Kinko's,
Office Max or the like so I have not yet had the
opportunity to get it enlarged into a super-sized
print.  However, on my next trip to Denver, I will get
a large framable print to add to my DeLorean wall of
fame (My dear wife calls it "the altar").

If you  collect DeLorean stuff, this is a must.  Plus,
the cause is such a good one.  I suspect Bob won't
keep plugging it on the DML, so I want to do just
that.  

Bob takes credit cards and he probably even takes
cash.  Send him $10.  You won't regret it.  You get a
very neat thing and the Michael J. Fox Foundation gets
some more desperately needed funds.

To Bob - Thanks.  To the rest of you - Help!

Dick Ryan

   

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 21:25:43 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)

T'was one of my more difficult encounters. The owner swore it did not happen
there.  I threw a fuss as there was no way the car went in that way.  He
said "sue me" and I was not going to get an ulcer over it if I could avoid
it, which is what the legal path would have caused.  The week following I
got a call from his foreman stating that he had confessed to the owner that
it had infact happened, and got himself fired over it.  He had wanted to
come forward when I was there but wasn't brave enough.  I went back and was
told yet again by the owner that it did not happen there.  By then I had it
mostly fixed, so it is what it is.  Over the years I have told many people
not to go there and he is now out of business.  This was fifteen years ago
and the car has not been driven since.  Would still like to get it really
right.

Don

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 6:38 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Problem closing door (warped???)


> Why in the world would you fix this yourself?
> The shop should have insurance - get it fixed
> right at one of the repair centers.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Donald Ekhoff [mailto:ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 7:26 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
>
>
> Not that this will help, but I have the same problem exactly.  Problem is
> that I know why.  I had the car worked on and the door was left open while
> the car was elevated in a lift.  The door was compressed at the forward
edge
> (the corner was curled) and when I went to pick it up the entire door was
> about two inches out of true with the body work.



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 13:45:17 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart


BUT, I do not see any bearings in this rack, what is going on, is 
there anywhere that I can obtain a drawing of this part so that I can 
know what parts I am missing or need, also if there are slide 
bearings that are missing is there anyone who can supply me with a 
parts number. I can state for sure that from looking inside the empty 
steering rack that there are no bearings or bushings for support.
john


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Service manual calls for 0.3 pints (about 6 ounces) of 90W gear 
oil. 
> Lak of oil by itself will not cause play in the rack, but will 
cause 
> things to wear out faster.
> 
> If you have it this far apart the source of the play should be 
> obvious, either the inner tie rod ends, the tie rods themselves, or 
> backlash in the rack&pinion gears. The other place I've seen play 
is 
> excessive wear on the slide bearings at the end of the housing 
where 
> the rack slides back and forth. 
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> > I . . took my steering rack apart. I mean really apart 
> > (everything). Suprise, there are no bushings in the steering 
rack. 
> > Tommorrow I am going to take it to the inspection station and 
show 
> > these guys there are no bushings in the rack. My question is, 
would 
> > lack of oil cause play in the rack, mine was almost dry, and what 
> > would you put in for oil after I fix any leak.



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 09:48:09 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>
Subject: Cincy DeLorean Parts

Hey List,
    I've had a tremendous response for the DeLorean parts so
far...Thanks so much!  I've updated the parts still available and put in
a request to delete the old ad, but it looks like it hasn't gone through
yet.  If you're still interested in a part, be sure to view the ad dated
October the 8th or follow the link below to make sure it's still
available.  The October 7th ad is old news.
    Thanks again for your response!
    Josh
    VIN 5102
    VIN 15964

Follow this link:
http://www.dmcnews.com/deptofcmrce/_forsale/0000007e.htm




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 07:57:40 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: airbox performance numbers

Why wait?  If you are courageous enough to try it, just remove your air
box and drive the car with no filter or box.  This is as free flow as
you can get.

If you don't feel an improvement, than this box with do nothing for you.


BTW:  Driving with no air filter is a HIGH RISK situation for you to
suck junk in to your engine that may cause damage!


-----Original Message-----
From: Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu]
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 5:02 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] airbox performance numbers

<SNIP>

I suggest that all you skeptical people wait to see what the people that
are
getting them from me have to say.
I hope that this answers your questions untill then.




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:18:03 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Washed my engine, now idle hunts

After a oil "mess" earlier this summer which required a fire
extinguisher, I needed to clean all of the "yuck" off of my engine.

After I hosed everything down, I removed all of the sparkplugs to get
the water out of the wells (they were all filled with water) and cranked
the engine with the plugs out (to avoid hydro lock).  

I then replaced the spark plugs and started it up with no problems, and
no hunting as it usually does when it is cold..  


5 minutes later with the engine warmed up, the idle started to hunt.
This is backwards from what it normally does.  I removed and cleaned all
of the electrical connections (I could find).  I also removed and
cleaned the distributor cap and rotor.

I have seen this problem discussed many times before, but could not
locate anything similar to this in the archives.  (sorry if I missed
it!)

Currently, I have disconnected the frequency valve to keep the idle
stable. Not good for the fuel economy or emissions, but...  :)

There is also a loose (not connected to anything) connector part of the
wire harness that also connects to the vacuum control switch for the
distributor (next to the fuel distributor).  The connector has solid
black wire, and another black wire with a stripe (there may have
actually been 3 wires, but I don't remember now).  Is this the connector
for the Thermo-time switch that is buried under the intake?  I stuck my
hand in there and felt a wire on a connector, but I think that was the
coolant sensor.  There is another set of wires that goes under there
(green, with some stripes) but I don't know where that terminates.  Can
anyone shed some light on this connector?  Is it used, and if so where
does it go?




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 13:19:26 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Convex side mirror FAQ

This is a compilation of frequently asked questions I have been answering
about the side mirrors.

Q: Is the curvature excessive enough that I wouldn't be able to accurately
judge distances?
A: No, but the USDOT thinks otherwise.  That is why they require all auto
manufactures to permanently include the warning, OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE
CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR.  The new DeLorean convex mirrors have the same
curvature as what has been used on passenger side mirrors on cars the world
over for many years.  I'm pretty sure that by '85 that all new cars in the
U.S. were required to have convex mirrors on the passenger side.  So if
there were an '85 model made of the DMC-12, it probably would have had
mirrors like what I am making.

Q: How well is the visibility improved?
A: Without adjusting the mirror, I can see some of the sky and some of the
ground behind and next to the car.  It makes parallel parking and backing
into spaces much easier.  But this isn't anything different than any newer
car with the same kind of mirror.  It just makes sense.

Q: What is it like having a convex mirror on the drivers side?
A: It is a bit different than what I'm used to.  It is nice, but not as big
as an improvement as having one on the passenger side.  I don't have any
problems with depth perception.  Now that I've tried it for a while, I would
want one on any car that I had to drive regularly.  Most cars in Europe have
convex mirrors on both sides of the car, but the drivers side is often cut
into quarters or thirds where it is divided into some flat and some convex.
Some newer cars in Europe have all convex mirror on both sides of the car,
so that is what I have done with my DeLorean.  Even U.S. made cars exported
to Europe have convex drivers side mirrors and even some with convex rear
view mirrors!  So far everyone in Europe who I have dealt with expects
convex mirrors for both sides of the car.

Q: How do they look on the car?
A: I shape these mirrors to be same shape as the original flat glass.  So
when
they are installed in the mirror housing, they look very factory.  One nice
thing I noticed right away is the better color rendition from the convex.
This will take some explaining.  The OEM flat mirrors are made with the
reflective surface on the back.  This has some disadvantages.  The adhesive
on the back eventually disturbs the reflective surface and makes stains in
the reflection.  The glass has iron dissolved into it which makes it
stronger, but this comes at the expense of making the glass look green.  The
reflection you see comes from light that has passed through the glass twice.
You get a green filter effect along with refraction & distortion.  But with
the new convex mirror, the reflective part is on the exposed surface of the
glass.  When compared to the OEM mirror, this convex glass has a gray/brown
look which much more resembles the gray/brown tint to the rest of the
DeLorean windows.  I am suspicious that one of the reasons that windshields
break so easily on DeLoreans is because they appear to have a very low iron
content (no green hue).

Q: Where do I get these mirrors?
A: Be the high bidder on eBay!  Otherwise, wait until I make more.  My life
is a mess.  I am between building a house, running a business, and taking
care of the family.  It will probably be early next year before I make any
more mirrors.

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 20:24:58 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., johndmc57_at_dml_y... wrote:
> I went for an inspection, did not pass because the mechanics said 
my 
> steering rack had a bad bushing and too much play in it. I 
questioned 
> their opinion and took my steering rack apart. I mean really apart 
> (everything). Suprise, there are no bushings in the steering rack. 
> Tommorrow I am going to take it to the inspection station and show 
> these guys there are no bushings in the rack. My question is, would 
> lack of oil cause play in the rack, mine was almost dry, and what 
> would you put in for oil after I fix any leak.
> john

OK I now know that the steering rack is supposed to have support 
bushings in the ends. Why they are not there is anyones guess. I 
guess the safety inspection I flunked served me well. The vendor does 
not sell the bushings by themselves so I have asked Dave here to tell 
me what the bushings are made from and I am going to have them made 
at a machine shop. I just can't afford $400 for two bushings.
john




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 18:30:16 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>
Subject: Ken's Dent!?

Dear List,
    I had a chance to run over to Ken Koncelik's house last night...I
had to console him after hearing about the dent he posted on yesterday.
    Well, I gotta tell you, if he didn't have notarized, completely
authenticated pictures that clearly identify the car as his, showing the
dent, I wouldn't believe he ever had one to begin with!  He did a
masterful job on it and I'm going to try and convince him to open a
stainless shop in his home.  There is absolutely no evidence that the
dent ever existed, it's unbelievable!
    Ken, when you get the chance, you've got to post some photos of your
work online.  Oh, and I have a hood ding you need to take a look at too!
(haha)
    Nice job,
    Josh
    VIN 5102
    VIN 15964





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:30:57 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: airbox performance numbers

In a message dated 10/08/2001 5:44:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com writes:

<< Why wait?  If you are courageous enough to try it, just remove your air
 box and drive the car with no filter or box.  This is as free flow as
 you can get.
 
 If you don't feel an improvement, than this box with do nothing for you.
 
 
 BTW:  Driving with no air filter is a HIGH RISK situation for you to
 suck junk in to your engine that may cause damage! >>



Just take some old panty hose.  Remove filter housing. Cut the panty hose to 
fit over the air plenum and attach with rubber gasket supplied. There isn't 
that much difference.
    In addition what goes in, must come out...the air flow must me 
proportional. If you change the intake you have to change the exhaust and 
muffler to have an efficient engine. 

Mike
    



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 22:52:11 -0000
From: edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Shifting problem

Well, thanks to Steve and Warren at Delorean Motor Company, I was 
able to determine my problem was in the shift lever assembly.  Close 
inspection revealed the shift lever was rusted in place thus 
preventing it from being lifted to move it into reverse.

Solution was to us penetrating oil, remove gate pin, and rotate shift 
lever to free.  Once free everything worked fine.

Thanks,
Ed
10541

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., garbadee_at_dml_b... wrote:
> OK, I adjusted the linkage as outlined in the shop manual.  This 
> allowed me to get back into 5th fine.  Now I can't get it into 
> reverse.  It appears from looking at the gate that the pin in the 
> shifting arm is too low to allow it to "lift" up enough.  This of 
> course means I can't get into the ledge of the gate which would 
allow 
> shifting into reverse.  As a matter of fact I can not see any 
> movement up when lifting on the shifter (thus no reverse).
> 
> Any idea what to do next?
> 
> Ed Garbade
> VIN 10541
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <garbadee_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > I believe I have a linkage problem but wanted to ask for input 
> before I
> > "Jump" into the task.  I'm sorry to say I have trashed 2 
> transmissions
> > working on vehicles (a Ford and Chevy some years ago and both 
> automatics) so
> > I am overly cautious before I mess with one.




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 01:19:59 -0000
From: nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: floppy mirrors

Hello group,

Since I bought my car a year ago, the passenger and driver side 
mirrors have been really "floppy", meaning they will not stay in 
place AT ALL! I have seen other posts on this, but no replies on how 
they become this way, or how to fix them.

Any thougts?

Nick
VIN 3092




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 01:33:09 -0000
From: nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Rheostat Interchange?

Hello,

My Rheostat was DOA when I bought my car. The dial spins round and 
round, and never hits a stop point or has any dimming effect. I 
pulled the rheostat and verfied that it is the faulty part, not the 
actual dial on top. I was wondering if anyone new an interchange that 
is reasonably priced, since the original is over $130. Ouch! Also, 
any good leads on a replacement digital clock?

Nick 
3092




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 22:48:58 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Washed my engine, now idle hunts

Marc, As the engine is warming it's running rich. The hunting would occur 
when the 02 sensor starts trying to adjust the fuel mixture Via the FV to the 
air mixture.
Adjust the air flow meter when the car is all warmed up and ideling. The 
hunting should go away once correct.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 03:01:59 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: airbox performance numbers

I'd be VERY cautious about trying this. If you don't get it exactly 
right, and you rev the engine up all the way, I'd hate to think about 
what a hunk of pantyhose sucked thru the engine will do to things in 
there. This could get expensive. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> Just take some old panty hose.  Remove filter housing. Cut the 
panty hose to 
> fit over the air plenum and attach with rubber gasket supplied. 




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:25:36 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Striker pin modification (was warped door)

In a message dated 10/08/2001 5:41:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net writes:

<< Subj:     [DML] Striker pin modification (was warped door)
 Date:  10/08/2001 5:41:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time
 From:  Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net (Rustproof)
 Reply-to:  dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
 To:    dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
 
 
 Does anyone know the precise difference between a 1981 Striker and an 82? Is
 this a modification that could be done on a lathe using the 81 pins? Can an
 81 pin be cut to resemble the 82?  Mike, you indicated that yours were
 chamfered and cut, could you elaborate on this please? Thanks.

    The pins are not modified. DO NOT MODIFY THE PIN or TAKE THE PIN OUT.
The area around the pin is modified and updated to the 1982 style. I think is 
was $200 per door.
Mike



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