From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 735
Date: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 2:57 AM

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Rheostat Interchange?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: airbox performance numbers
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Fw: State Farm Insurance Question
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

4. Re: update on speedo noise (finally solved)
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

5. Re: airbox performance numbers
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

6. RE: Rheostat Interchange?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

7. RE: Washed my engine, now idle hunts
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Re: Striker pin modification (was warped door)
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

9. RE: Schematic
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

10. Re: How to add a fuel pressure monitor
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

11. putrid exhaust, imperfect idle
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 23:15:34 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Rheostat Interchange?

Nick, I'm working on a replacement for the rehostat.I'll let the list know.
John
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 23:27:16 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: airbox performance numbers

Dave and others, If you want to try a very little resistance filter with the 
original air box that will keep out small children, bugs and larger objects.  
 I did this, Took an old filter, took off the filter part and left the screen 
part and stuffed some of the white christmas fiber material you put around 
the bottom of the tree down in the cavity where the filter went.Absoulty no 
air resistance.  Worked great and gave me a sence of what Casey is doing. I 
was going to have Dirk build some air boxes out of SS, but cost If i'm not 
mistaken was about $300.00 + transporation.
I think Caseys is a good deal .
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
   



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 23:14:26 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Fw: State Farm Insurance Question

  
  
The dreaded insurance question with a twist.
  
I need help from owners who have State Farm Insurance .  I recently moved to Florida and "got" State Farm Insurance on my home and 4 cars. Reasonable rate. For a couple of weeks I assumed all was well.
Now , my agent called and said he did not know it but the DeLorean is on a list of vehicles that State Farm could not insure. He read to me from a list of limited production and hard to repair car list which included the Bricklin, Avanti, and Auburn and numerous others. I know that a lot of you have State Farm and when i told him about the DML and how I know many owners have State Farm he said basically he would like more information.
Any owners with State Farm, especially any Florida residents if you would email me information privately it would be greatly appreciated.
  
Thanks in advance for your assistance!
DMC1982 at msn.com
Cecil Longwisch
Jacksonville, FL
#10663
  
  
  
  
  
  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 22:51:04 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: update on speedo noise (finally solved)

Well, I found and licked my speedo noise problem.
It seems that my problem was identical to Walt's-- the cable from the angle
drive was too long. It was jammed into the plastic cap so tight that it took
a claw hammer to break it free. Fortunately, it didn't break during all
that. I was sweating a little there about that.
When I replaced my broken lower cable I pulled on the plastic cap wanting to
oil that end but gave up too soon. What I succeeded in doing was loosening
it enough to allow the cable to bend and make the awful noise.
So... I cut the end off the plastic cap's nipple with a razor-- even kept
the hole square. Now the cable can stick out-- about a  quarter of an inch,
and the cap fits snug. No Noise!
I was a little worried about break dust and road grime working back through
that opening so I squirted a little black silicone around the cable end and
then wiped off the excess. Afterall, I don't want to permanently glue it in
place!
With Dave Swingle's help I've got a pic loaded into the Photos section of
our website at groups.yahoo.com, so head over and take a look.
I took the holiday morning off and took my beautiful wife cruising for a
while. That's a good thing!
The weather has cooled down, and I can turn the AC off finally and really
enjoy the ride. I love this car!

Kevin
#4687, Houston




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 03:58:43 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: airbox performance numbers

Actually I don't think the pantyhose will cause any harm as if it gets 
caught it will just melt and burn up. A piece of screen might be a 
better idea as it will also act as a flame arrestor just in case the 
motor should backfire. Get a piece of stainless screen. A cheap source 
is a cooking supply. Get a grease fire preventer, it is just a piece 
os s/s screen mounted in a wire handle. Cut the screen out and you 
have a nice big piece. Most places that sell door screen materiel sell 
either plastic or aluminum and that isn't as good as stainless. In 
some cases removing the air induction system can result in a decrease 
in performance as they are "tuned" to the air flow. The only way to 
really do it right is on a flowbench. Dave Swingle is also correct in 
that you can't expect any improvement if the exhaust is restricting 
the breathing of the motor, fixing the intake won't get you anything 
in that case. A motor is supposed to be an engineered system and as 
such there is usually no one thing that will give you much improvement 
without also upgrading the associated systems. This will give you some 
idea of what Steve Wynn went through to get more performance out of 
the PRV-6. If it was that easy to improve the performance you would 
think that the Delorean engineers would have done it because they 
realized the car was underpowered because it came out too heavy. Their 
answer was to go to Legend Industries and create a turbo-powered "D".
It may have been the expensive and "brute-force" way to get more 
horsepower but it made a significant difference as any owner who has a 
turbo will tell you. The efforts to improve the performance by just 
working on the air box will yield small if any improvement.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> I'd be VERY cautious about trying this. If you don't get it exactly 
> right, and you rev the engine up all the way, I'd hate to think 
about 
> what a hunk of pantyhose sucked thru the engine will do to things in 
> there. This could get expensive. 
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> > 
> > Just take some old panty hose.  Remove filter housing. Cut the 
> panty hose to 
> > fit over the air plenum and attach with rubber gasket supplied.




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 07:57:11 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Rheostat Interchange?

I did much research on this last year, and was able to find potential
replacements for the dimmer.

Before I had a chance to get a few samples of the replacements, I just
took mine apart and fixed it.


If your interested, I may be able to locate my research information...
Or, you can go to some British car shows and look though the part bins
for a similar part, bring your OHM meter!


-----Original Message-----
From: nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 9:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Rheostat Interchange?


> Hello,

> My Rheostat was DOA when I bought my car. 

[moderator snip]



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 07:58:22 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Washed my engine, now idle hunts

John,

How would washing the engine cause the air flow meter adjustment to
change?

Marc

-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:dherv10_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 10:49 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Washed my engine, now idle hunts


> Marc, As the engine is warming it's running rich. The
> hunting would occur when the 02 sensor starts trying
> to adjust the fuel mixture Via the FV to the air mixture.
> Adjust the air flow meter when the car is all warmed
> up and ideling. The

> hunting should go away once correct.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 13:07:55 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: Striker pin modification (was warped door)

Yesterday, to try and diagnose my passenger door (doing the same 
thing as everybody else's, but driver's side is perfect) I removed my 
striker pins.  I have a Nov 81 build, VIN 06960.  On my car they 
simply unscrewed.  Behind the plastic panel was a square opening 
allowing for adjustment.  A metal bracket was behind this which the 
striker screwed into, it moved around freely, but was always snug up 
against the opening to prevent falling into the fender.  At this time 
I also removed my inner weatherstrip, and door strut.  What I found 
was that with the strut attached but striker pins removed, the door 
was PHYSICALY closing in the front of the car before the rear.  After 
removal of the strut, the door seemed to have twisted backwards, and 
then the rear was actually rubbing against the rear quarter, but 
still very misaligned.  I played around with adjusting the hinges 
where the door attaches w/strut attachment.  This didn't help in any 
situation.  This winter I'm probably going to remove the torsion bar 
and adjust the front hinge (unless this can be done safely without 
removing it?)  Dont yell at me about how dangerous this is, because I 
know the procedure and have access to the propor tools (hint hint 
Bruce B.).  I am primarily writing this to say that even though the 
striker pins are adustable, sometimes it really is the door itself 
which is mis-aligned.  If I get a chance I'll take a picture of the 
striker pin setup on my car.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
>     The pins are not modified. DO NOT MODIFY THE PIN or TAKE THE 
PIN OUT.
> The area around the pin is modified and updated to the 1982 style. 
I think is 
> was $200 per door.
> Mike




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 09:40:39 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Schematic

Could you post the ordering information again.

Thanks

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
> From: Dick Ryan 


> Hey guys - I just received the Schematic that Bob
> "Zilla" is offering to raise money for the Michael J.
> Fox Foundation.  Let me share some thoughts with you. 


> First, the schematic is an awesome piece of work. 

[moderator snip]



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 11:22:15 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: How to add a fuel pressure monitor

I installed complete set of gauges in the engine compartment about a year
ago and find that they are invaluable when working on the car. I have
included a couple of pics. The gauges include: fuel pressure, (mid engine)
manifold vacuum pressure,(front center) tachometer, (upper left corner)
water temp, voltage and oil pressure (Bottom right cluster). None need to be
oil filled except for the manifold vacuum  gauge  due to the
pulse-fluctuations in the manifold. (otherwise the needle bounces all over
the place.) Other than that, they were pretty easy to install, mostly some
drilling and tapping. The fuel pressure gauge was simply an add-on using a
double banjo bolt that is readily available from your local volvo dealer.
The whole setup ran about $120.00 and was well worth it! It makes working on
the engine so much easier when all the engine's vital info is right there in
front of you.
Rustproof
Vin 1559
p.s.
Thanks to everyone who helped me work out that high idle problem. Everything
runs just fine now.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 11:27:29 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: putrid exhaust, imperfect idle

Hello All,

i posted a few weeks ago about this problem but now that i have some hard 
data, it may be easier to determine the problem.

the problem/symptoms are these:  the car starts and runs all the time (almost 
never dies unless i'm screwing around with it) however no matter if the 
engine is warm or cold, the idle isn't very steady.  it's not erratic as in 
you can't really see the RPM gauge moving (except in the first couple minutes 
of a cold start when the idle is seeking) but it doesn't sound like it is 
normal.  it sounds rough.  when you drive the car, when cold there is a 
hesitation to acceleration but that clears up in a couple/few blocks.  when 
warm, it performs pretty well, but doesn't seem like all the power is there.

my exhaust is horrible.  it smells very thick and when you are working in the 
engine compartment you have to turn away every couple of minutes because the 
exhaust makes your eyes burn and water.  does that mean i am running too rich 
or too lean? rich i would think, but i'm not ASE certified!  also, it is 55 
degress out and i can see my white/gray exhaust coming out of the pipes.  i 
have not noticed my cat or muffler getting super hot and glowing.  my heat 
shield (new one) is in perfect shape. 

i have checked for vaccum leaks - can't find any.  when i remove the air 
cleaner cover i can hear a whooshing sound going through the meter plate.  is 
that normal?  my frequency valve operates and sounds like an angry hornet.  i 
checked my CPR terminals with a multimeter and it read 0 ohms - i was told it 
should be about 35 ohms?  is that correct?

i now have my own fuel pressure tester and i measured:
cold start: 1.6 bar control pressure, 4.9 bar primary pressure
hot start: 3.0-3.6 bar control pressure, 4.9 bar primary pressure
rest pressure:  after 15 minutes - 2.8 bar.  

i suppose the next thing to check is my timing and vacuum advance timing.  
any other ideas on what could be the problem?  any other tests i can do?  i'm 
glad i finally have my own fuel pressure gauge!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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