From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 746
Date: Friday, October 19, 2001 3:54 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Heater Problem
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Sunstar toy
From: "ACK, k." <particleman01_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: DAILY DRIVER DMC
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. want to buy: passenger side tail light lens
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Trailing Arm Bolt Question.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

6. Re: College Deloreans
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

7. Re: Re: DAILY DRIVER DMC
From: CancerMan <cancerman_at_dml_olg.com>

8. 3rd Brake Light.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

9. Re: Heater Problem
From: sharksigns_at_dml_yahoo.com

10. Re: towing a delorean
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com

11. Clutch Problem (with D)
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

12. Re: towing a delorean
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Fall Foliage tour
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. NW OH 9-11-01 Benefit Car Show
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Sunstar toy
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com

16. age bracket curiosoty
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

17. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

18. loose frame bolt
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: removing mirror glass (long)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. DOC UK Site Overhaul
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: age bracket curiosoty
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

22. Re: Heater Problem
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

23. Chassis/Frame Mounting Bolts.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

24. Heater Problem Clarified
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 03:48:15 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Heater Problem

Bleed the cooling system and make sure you have enough coolant in it. 
If you still don't get any heat feel the hoses going to the heater and 
see if they are cold. If they are cold look for a kinked hose, blocked 
heater core or stuck heater valve. If the engine never warms up are 
your fans runnng continuosly and maybe you have a missing or stuck 
open thermostat. Look at your temp gauge. It is bad to run a motor 
that never warms up. The heater valve is all the way in front of the 
motor and if you can find it you can move it by hand to see if it is 
stuck.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., deloreanss_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I am having a mysterious problem with my heater. The problem is that 
there is 
> no heat. I am speculating that it could be the hot water valve that 
allows 
> the hot water to flow into the heater core, but I do not know how to 
test 
> this theory. I don't think that it could be the heater core b/c I 
would think 
> that would be evidenced by a leak or something. The only other idea 
I have is 
> that the vacuum actuator that opens the heater flap isn't working, 
but I 
> would think that would be the least likely scenario. Does anyone 
have any 
> ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> John Weaver
> ETDOC
> RED DMC #10527
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 21:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: "ACK, k." <particleman01_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Sunstar toy

Does anybody know when the new 1-18th Sunstar DeLorean
model is supposedly coming out in stores? Does it
matter what region you are in, I'm in Oregon. I
haven't seen them out yet, and none of the stores I've
talked to have had any info.

Alec
particleman01_at_dml_yahoo.com
www.adelorean.cjb.net

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Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 02:35:59 -0400
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DAILY DRIVER DMC

  Adam,

  Well myself being in college, I can certainly understand what your dilemma
is.  I am currently a 4th year college student and I want a Delorean more
than anything.  I have pictures of the Delorean on my walls, I LOVE BTTF, I
read JZD's autobiography, I had a Delorean AIM Icon and all the other stuff.
I am totally in love with this car.  But you should realize what I have
realized:  it must wait until your finances are ideal for ownership.

  I never like bearing news that bring people out of ambition and back into
'real life' so to speak, but from all I have learned the Delorean is NOT a
good car to own at such a young age.  I really didn't know this until I
secured the enthusiast's job of a lifetime: working for Rob Grady.  I worked
with Rob over the summer and I came in wanting to learn all about the car I
could and I did.  I saw how frustrating the car is.  I saw how much it costs
to maintain!  My god it truly is a money pit.  It is absolutly true that the
'Rule Of Twenty' stands and it WILL happen to the Delorean you end up
owning.  I've seen people with $20K cars and it needs bairly any work.  I've
seen cars that people bought for $15K and it needed some minor things and
one or two major things.  Then I've seen some shit boxes that you couldn't
pay me to take.  What I'm getting at is that it is an expensive car to own.

  I don't know if you've driven a Delorean, but it does take getting used
to.  I had the opportunity to drive one a few blocks for the first time
while at PJ Grady's and I had trouble getting used to the 'cockpit' style of
the interior and the fact that the tail of the car extends a few feet past
the rear glass.  Not an ideal car if you are not an experienced driver.
I've never been in an accident and I delivered pizza for three years and I
still couldn't handle the D with precision.

  I know I will get my car.  But I have come to terms that now is not my
time and I happily drive my '92 plymouth sundance.  But I keep myself in the
loop by subcribing to this list, making Delorean friends, getting a Delorean
job and attending Delorean events.  By learning all I can now, I will avoid
a $20K mistake two or three years down the road.  If I'm going to do it, I
will do it right.  I highly suggest you do the same.

  I wish you the best in your search to live the dream.  Remember to not get
emotional on the first car you look at.  There are always deloreans for
sale.  You will find the right one.  Check for frame rust, run a carfax
report and call Rob Grady or any other Delorean service place for the full
repiar records so you get what you pay for.  Good luck and may we both live
the dream in the near future.

  -Aaron Crocco
 ________________________________________________________

 Have you moved into the Net City yet?  Come see your new favorite
 neighborhood!

 Your Net City.Com

 http://www.yournetcity.com




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 03:14:07 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: want to buy: passenger side tail light lens

Hey all,

i want to buy a used passenger side taillight lens in excellent condition (no 
scratches and especially no turn signal lens fading).  please email me 
privately!

thanks
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 07:16:56 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.

Ok, for a while now, I've had clunking sounds comming from the back 
of my car. I tighened down 11 out of 12 bolts that mount the body to 
the chassis, and that has quited things down quite a bit. Anywho, my 
question is this: Can a bent Trailing Arm Bolt affect the appearance 
of the car overall? From a distance, the rear end of my car appears 
to be lower on the driver side. A bit of background info. While I am 
not abusive to my car, I do drive it hard. The car also has a 
tendancy to lose traction much easier making right turns, than left 
ones. It will fishtail, and slide when making hard rights. But hard 
left turns, it seems to correct itself fairly quickly.

Any ideas/advice on inspection?

-Robert
vin 6585 




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 07:01:43 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: College Deloreans

About the "college DeLorean" debate, I can only offer this advice. 
Change carrers! Become an IT person. For the amount of studying in 
college, you can get a fist full of 'certs', and make much more money 
quicker. Plus with the amount of money that you don't spend on text 
books and classes, you can put that into your car. See, problem 
solved!

Three words (or two words and one letter): Become a geek!

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity who on this list has a Delorean in college?  
You can
> email me privately if you don't want to clog up the listserve.
> 
> Willie Mack
> wmack_at_dml_v...
> Virginia Tech
> '81 Delorean




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 04:01:38 -0400
From: CancerMan <cancerman_at_dml_olg.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DAILY DRIVER DMC

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
We have reached the point where no new information is being
presented on this subject.  Please consider the thread closed.
*****

Just to add my 2 cents. Im a 19 year old sophomore in college. I bought my car this
summer on a trip out to Chicago. All I can say is What a Ride!!! There have been lots of
highs and lows in my ownership so far. The first high was when I first brought the car
home and saw it sitting in my driveway. The first low was finding out the next day that
no one would insure it for a reasonable rate. The second low came when my other car blew
an engine, which depleted my funds leaving no money to fix the DeLorean until this
winter.

Over the course of the summer ive thoroughly enjoyed owning the car. Its an ego trip like
no other. But Im also under a bit of financial strain right now. My cars are sucking up
all my income and savings, and thats not a situation I want to be in. But for all the
trouble its caused, I seem to forgive and forget as soon as I get behind the wheel.
Although if I had a chance to do it over again, I would probably wait.

You need to weigh your options. Can you live with having most of your income being used
to maintain and pay for it? Can you deal with the headaches of getting
insurance/inspection/repairs? If you can make it through that mess without looking back
and regretting your decision then you should go for it.

If you do decide to go ahead with it heres a few tips. Make sure you can live with the
faults of the car, you wont have much extra money for repairs for a while. Id recommend
getting a mechanically sound car with a few cosmetic problems. That way you can still
drive the car everyday while you restore it. Buy a car thats been used as a daily driver
already, or has been driven on a regular basis. But most importantly, hook up with other
owners in your area. They will be one of your most valuable resources.

Good luck to you and I hope things work out. Just hope you realize that if you do this
before your ready you wont own the car, the car will own you.

Jeremy Delaney
vin 10842




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 08:35:57 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: 3rd Brake Light.

I've posted to 2 pictures of my 3rd brake light under the "Photos" 
section. The 2 pics will show you what the 3rd brake light looks like 
from both the back, and the side. These were photos I took when I 
first got my car, so that's why I didn't think at the time to take a 
picture of what the lights look like at night with the brakes on.

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 08:48:49 -0000
From: sharksigns_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Heater Problem

John,

Be sure you have enough water in the cooling system first.  If not, 
this may be your problem.  Without enough, the heater core will not 
get warm, let alone hot.  This may sound simple, but check this first 
and eliminate it as your root problem.  

Mark vin2602
 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., deloreanss_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I am having a mysterious problem with my heater. The problem is 
that there is 
> no heat. I am speculating that it could be the hot water valve that 
allows 
> the hot water to flow into the heater core, but I do not know how 
to test 
> this theory. I don't think that it could be the heater core b/c I 
would think 
> that would be evidenced by a leak or something. The only other idea 
I have is 
> that the vacuum actuator that opens the heater flap isn't working, 
but I 
> would think that would be the least likely scenario. Does anyone 
have any 
> ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> John Weaver
> ETDOC
> RED DMC #10527
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 05:36:12 EDT
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: towing a delorean

I have towed it backward on a car carrier at highway speed (65 mph) for 300 
miles with no problem.  I did TAPE DOWN the rear louver with ducktape because 
of concern of it catching the wind and fly off.  The reason of towing it 
backward is due to the weight distribution on the trailer.  I was concern 
with the tongue weight being too light if it was towed forward.  The weight 
of the D is mainly in the rear of the car (60/40 if I remember it correctly) 
due to the rear engine setup.  
For those of you that is not familar with towing, not enough tongue weight on 
the hitch will cause the trailer to fish-tail (swing from side to side) and 
lost control at higher speed.
Bill Kwan



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:55:58 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Clutch Problem (with D)

Last night, I was visiting a friend up at a college about an hour 
from where I lived.  It was chilly, but not cold (in the 40s).  When 
I got into my DeLorean to drive home, I started her up and when I let 
the clutch go in neutral, there was the awfull squeaking sound, 
changing tone as the engine was idle-hunting.  It sounded similar to 
a slipping belt.  Last year, a few weeks before I put my car in 
storage for the winter, I could hear a similar squeak, but I simply 
thought it was the original AC idler bearings going bad.  The 
bearings are new now, but I dont even have the AC belt on the car 
right now!  When I pushed in the clutch, I could hear a grumbling 
whining sound for a few seconds, then the squeak stopped but there 
was a remeniscent grumble after the whine had "spun down".  After 
driving the hour home (99% freeway, hardly any shifting) I was 
sitting at a light and the squeak and whine were no longer there, but 
the rumble still remained when holding the clutch pedal.  I'm going 
to guess this is the bearings inside the clutch, but since thats more 
work than I want to do (already got out of it once, some of you may 
recall) I'm looking for alternatives.  Thanks.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:20:14 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: towing a delorean

I know this will sound ignorant so I will ask those of you with experience 
under your belt to forgive me up front.

I have been looking through Knut Grimsrud's DMC Parts Reference Database 
(Delorean Club of Oregon http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_soft.htm).  I can't 
seem to find any reference to a "control arm".  Can someone tell me what I 
am not suppose to "hook to" (in terms of this particular part by 
name/number).  This would help me understand my car a little better.

Thanks,
Ed
10541

>The safest way is to flatbed it. The operator MUST NOT try to pull it
>on by the lower control arms!

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:40:31 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Fall Foliage tour

The DeLorean Mid-Atlantic club is having it's Fall Foliage tour on 10/27 & 10/28, hosted by Mike DeLuca and Rob Grady. As of right now, I'm planning on going... so, if anyone would like to join me in a lil "caravan" of DeLoreans, drop me an e-mail. I'm in west-central NJ and will be traveling through Staten Island to get to the meeting spot of PJ Grady's. So I'll be jumping on 202 north to 287 south to 440. If you'd like to join up somewhere along the way that Saturday morning, drop me a line! The weekend should kick some major a$$ :-P.

---Dan


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 07:06:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: NW OH 9-11-01 Benefit Car Show

For those who are in and around NW OH . . .

The GM Powertrain Plant in Toledo, OH on W. Alexis Rd is hosting a
Benefit Car Show for the NY, DC & PA Red Cross relief fund this Sunday
(Oct 21). Show begins at noon.

-Shannon

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 13:49:11 EDT
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Sunstar toy

I got a flier with my last issue of "Hemmings Motor News" that had the 
DeLorean models in it.  I forget what the asking price was, but you can order 
them through this company.

Brian
VIN 1597



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 14:59:11 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: age bracket curiosoty

With the interest from the college students talking about DeLorean ownership:
A)  Has there been a survey as to the age category of actual owners?
B)  What about Delorean owner want-to-be's? Same age breakdown.
under 20 years of age
20 - 25 years of age
26 - 30 years of age
30 - 40 years of age
40 - 60 years of age
60 - 70 years of age
over 70 years of age

I don't want to monitor it. If it has already been done, would someone let me know either through this format or privately.No guesses. No pretenders to know. No double calls. No lying about your age.

It would be interesting, 20 years later,  to see the real ages of owners and dreamers of those "LIVING THE DREAM"
Marv.
#4239


Marvin Stein
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
web: printeddrinkware.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 11:45:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.

I'd try rotating the tires to see if that does any good. Swap the two from
tires for one another, and the two back tires. Different sizes means you
can't go diagonal across the car.

I've also got quite a bit of clunking. Can anyone explain where these
bolts are found (2 here, 4 there, etc) so that I can go over my car and
see if it helps? Is there a certain page of the parts manual that shows
these bolts?

-Christian

On Thu, 18 Oct 2001 DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com wrote:

> Ok, for a while now, I've had clunking sounds comming from the back
> of my car. I tighened down 11 out of 12 bolts that mount the body to
> the chassis, and that has quited things down quite a bit. Anywho, my
> question is this: Can a bent Trailing Arm Bolt affect the appearance
> of the car overall? From a distance, the rear end of my car appears
> to be lower on the driver side. A bit of background info. While I am
> not abusive to my car, I do drive it hard. The car also has a
> tendancy to lose traction much easier making right turns, than left
> ones. It will fishtail, and slide when making hard rights. But hard
> left turns, it seems to correct itself fairly quickly.
>
> Any ideas/advice on inspection?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 14:57:42 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: loose frame bolt

A few weeks ago I noticed that a bolt that holds the cross brace to my frame
was loose.  This is the pipe-looking brace that connects to either side of
the frame in front of the engine (part # 108330).  Gravity was the only
thing holding it in.  How could something like that get so loose?  Has
anyone else had this happen?  Was it from the vibration of normal driving?
The car only has 17.5K miles on it.  Did someone forget to torque it at the
factory?

Walt Tampa, FL




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 14:59:31 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: removing mirror glass (long)

> How can you remove the glass?  does it pop out or does it have
> to be heated and taken off?

No guys!  I didn't pay this guy to be a shill for a new convex mirror.  (big
smile)

Because I have gone in the business of making replacement convex mirror
glass to fit our cars, I have written up some instructions for removing and
replacing the glass.  Even if you replace your mirror with OEM flat glass
instead of buying a convex mirror from me, these directions will still
apply.  Unfortunately, there are more people who want mirrors than I have
time to make them.  If you want me to make you one, it will probably be
toward the end of the year before I get caught up with everyone on the
waiting list before you.  If you are totally desperate, I can send you a
reject (badly chipped & scratched) convex mirror to use until I get the time
to make you a perfect one.  From the driver's seat, the imperfections won't
be too obvious.

Be aware that the DeLorean side mirror housings are hinged so that if you
hit something moving either forward or backward, then they will swing out of
the way.  To have more room to work on the mirror, swing it out.

Many people may not realize that there are two similar but different
versions of side mirror housings.  How you proceed depends on which version
your car has.

According to the DeLorean Parts Manual, cars of VIN 5930 and above have the
later style side mirror housing.  All others have the earlier version, but I
have seen every kind of exception.  To find out what style of mirror you
have for sure, use the following criteria:  Look at the border between the
edges of the mirror glass and the mirror housing cup.  The later style
housing has a thin black frame that fits flush with the surface of and
surrounds the parameter of the glass.  If you stick a pencil between the
mirror housing cup and the moving glass assembly, the pencil will rest on
the edge of the frame and will not touch the glass.  The earlier style
housing has no such frame.  If you stick a pencil between the glass and the
housing, the pencil will be touching the raw edge of the glass.

I have never tried removing the mirror glass from a later style housing
(yet).  From my experience, most DeLoreans have the earlier version anyway.
If you determine that your mirror housing is the later version, then perhaps
the disassembly instructions listed below for the earlier version will give
you some wisdom.

Early version glass removal instructions:
-----------------------------------------
There are two ways to remove your original mirror -- whole or in pieces.

Whole: Adjust your mirror using the electronic controls to be at the extreme
inward position of its travel.  This means that the edge closest to the car
is recessed deeply into the mirror housing and the edge farthest from the
car is protruding as much as possible.  Now try to stick your fingers
between the mirror glass and the mounting pad.  The pad is very flexible,
and the mirror is not.  To aid your work try using a butter knife.  It might
also help to use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the mirror, but be very
careful that the heat does not damage the mirror housing.  The OEM
double-sided tape that holds the mirror on tends to stick a lot better to
the mirror than to the mounting pad, so concentrate your efforts on
separating it at the mounting pad and not from the glass.  Be careful not to
force the mounting pad in such a way that it causes the electronic mechanism
to skip a gear.  If this happens, you may hear a click from the mechanism
and then the mirror may not move properly afterwards using the electronic
controls.  To fix this simply force the pad in the opposite direction until
you hear it click again.

In pieces:  Break out the very center of the mirror using a heavy
sharp-pointed object such as a ball-peen hammer.  Under the glass will be a
thin layer of double-sided tape.  Tear it away.  This should expose a
phillips head screw in the center of the mounting pad.  Remove this screw
and the whole pad should come forward and out.  Be careful not to loose the
washer that goes under the screw.  Also be careful not to loose the two
small thin spring shims that attach to the two red plastic rods behind the
mounting pad.  Look carefully at how it came apart so that you can put it
all back properly.

When you have it apart, you should have the following pieces removed from
the car:
1) phillips screw
2) washer that goes under the screw
3) mirror pad
4) two red plastic rods that attach to the back of the mirror pad using
snap-together ball/socket joints.
5) two small spring shims.  One attaches to each red rod.  Remember the
orientation of the rods with the spring shims because if they get rotated
then they won't fit back in the hole.

Having the mounting pad off of the car will help considerably in removing
the rest of the old glass and adhesive.  Use a solvent such as acetone to
get the rest of the old adhesive off.

When you put it all back together, the red posts need to go in the holes
first.  If they are turned the wrong way, they will not go in.  It is easier
to fit back together if you position the red rods at a downward angle
relative to the pad.  Then look over the top of the pad while you guide the
rods and spring shims back into the holes.  Replace the washer & phillips
screw.

Mounting the new mirror:
------------------------
With the mounting pad cleaned and re-installed, adjust the electronic
controls so that the mounting pad is in the center-most position.  Or if you
are installing over the original flat mirror, clean the mirror thoroughly.
Remove the 3 pieces of green plastic film from the back of the convex mirror
to expose the adhesive.  Carefully stick the mirror centered over the
mounting pad.  There should be an equal amount of air space between the top,
bottom and outer edge of the glass.  You only have one chance to get this
right because once it sticks on there it isn't going to come off very
easily.  The adhesive for the new mirror is much stronger than the OEM.

Now you need to be sure that the new mirror is stuck completely to the
mounting pad.  To do this, stick a finger between the mounting pad & housing
cup and squeeze the mirror & mounting pad together between your thumb &
finger.  Use the electronic controls to move the mirror to the extremes of
its travel side-to-side to help make room for your finger.

Walt    Tampa, FL









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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 23:14:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: DOC UK Site Overhaul

Dear All

*** http://www.delorean.co.uk ***

The DeLorean Owners Club UK website has been completely re-written,
re-vamped, and reorganised!

Most of the content hasn't changed, but it's all a lot easier to
navigate, and from my point of view a lot easer to update (finally
kicked the FrontPage habit :-) It's also properly hosted now, and a LOT
nicer looking.

I had to get it done before the arrival of my DeLorean. Heard today that
it's on schedule to land tomorrow, and thanks to the pre-emptive
form-filling, has already cleared customs! I pick it up next wednesday.

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458
DOC UK






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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:44:15 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: age bracket curiosoty

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
There is a Create Poll link just above the Open Polls banner
*****

I tried to make a poll in our area, but there is no "Create a Poll" button.
Weird. Administrative duty, perhaps?

----- Original Message -----
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: [DML] age bracket curiosoty


> With the interest from the college students talking about DeLorean
ownership:
> A)  Has there been a survey as to the age category of actual owners?
> B)  What about Delorean owner want-to-be's? Same age breakdown.
> under 20 years of age
> 20 - 25 years of age
> 26 - 30 years of age
> 30 - 40 years of age
> 40 - 60 years of age
> 60 - 70 years of age
> over 70 years of age
>
> I don't want to monitor it. If it has already been done, would someone let
me know either through this format or privately.No guesses. No pretenders to
know. No double calls. No lying about your age.
>
> It would be interesting, 20 years later,  to see the real ages of owners
and dreamers of those "LIVING THE DREAM"
> Marv.
> #4239
>
>
> Marvin Stein
> Printed Drinkware Company
> 924 Dundas Street
> London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
> tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
> fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
> email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
> web: printeddrinkware.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:53:02 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Heater Problem

In addition to the other things already mentioned it could be the AC mode
switch or the little vacuum actuater towards the front of the engine.
When my AC mode switch failed it wouldn't switch from vents (different
problem) and also wouldn't allow the hot radiator fluid flow into the heater
core.
DMCJoe told me to disconnect the vacuum hose to the actuator, and sure
enough it had suction. Leaving it off allowed water to flow into the core.

You may not have a failed switch... after all you are only complaining of
one symptom and I would expect you to have at least one more if the switch
were bad. But it's one more easy thing to check.

----- Original Message -----
From: <deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Heater Problem


> I am having a mysterious problem with my heater. The problem is that there
is
> no heat. I am speculating that it could be the hot water valve that allows
> the hot water to flow into the heater core, but I do not know how to test
> this theory. I don't think that it could be the heater core b/c I would
think
> that would be evidenced by a leak or something. The only other idea I have
is
> that the vacuum actuator that opens the heater flap isn't working, but I
> would think that would be the least likely scenario. Does anyone have any
> ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> John Weaver
> ETDOC
> RED DMC #10527
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 02:16:49 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Chassis/Frame Mounting Bolts.

Ok, total there are 12 bolts that mount the fiberglass underbody to 
the chassis. Here are there locations:

Trunk.
2 bolts in here. To access the bolts, pull up the carpet (and board 
insert if applicable). The bolts screw mount, to the inside of the 
shock towers.

Passenger Compartment.
A total 6 bolts here, and all mount to the side of the chassis back 
bone. The bolts that hold the seatbelt receptacles in. The remaining 
bolts are located fore and aft of these bolts. To get to the 
remaining bolts, you will need to pull the carpet on the center 
console back. If unsure of location, you will can feel the bolts 
under the carpet.

Engine Compartment.
Total of 4 bolts. 2 are used not just to secure the undebody to the 
frame, but they also hold the crossbrace in place to strengthen the 
chassis. They are located to the front of the engine compartment, and 
bolt just inside of the rear shocktowers. The final two bolts are a 
bit trickier. Unlike the other bolts, these mount from inside the 
fiberglass body, and into the chassis. If you are a bit double-
jointed, you can access the left side bolt by removing the access 
panel for the carbon canistor. Otherwise, the only way to access 
these bolts is to remove the rear facia.

On my car, 3 of the bolts in the passenger compartment had completely 
fallen out. and two of the bolts in the engine compartment were loose 
enough that I could simply hand tighten them. The remaining bolts 
still had a bit of room here and there that I could hit them a little 
futher in.

Previously, I thought that I was the only person with loose bolts. 
But now I see that I'm not. It wouldn't hurt for every one here to 
give the bolts on their cars a good once over. I can't remember the 
size of the bolts, but I did use a 12' extention where I could to get 
the bolts in as tight as possible.

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:36:26 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Heater Problem Clarified

Let me try to clear some stuff up about my problem, I would like to get this 
solved ASAP, it is getting cold. I have no heat at the vents per se. I don't 
think I have any heat at the core either. My coolant level is fine (always). 
My thermostat is fine. My system is constantly bled (Thanks again DMC Joe). 
My fans work perfect. My car runs at the correct temperature. I haven't tried 
feeling the hoses that go to the valve, but that is the best idea I have 
heard so far. I will have to do that. If anyone has a suggestion, I would 
appreciate it very much.

Thanks,
John Weaver
ETDOC 
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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