From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 747
Date: Saturday, October 20, 2001 3:48 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: age bracket curiosoty
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

2. Re: Heater Problem Clarified
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

3. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

4. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

5. Re: towing a delorean
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

6. Re: towing a delorean
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

7. Heater Problem Clarified part 2
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

8. DeLorean For Sale & Just Reduced
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Drawings of Bell Housing
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

10. Re: towing a delorean
From: tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com

11. RE: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

12. My Views on The Deloreans Magazine
From: P12C16_at_dml_aol.com

13. applause
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

14. Re: age bracket curiosoty
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Battery acid damage
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: Drawings of Bell Housing
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>

17. Re: towing a delorean
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: My Views on The Deloreans Magazine
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: deloreans magazine...
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

20. Exhaust tips
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:20:44 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: age bracket curiosoty

The poll is now open until Nov. 1st (so as not to interfere with any
Municipal elections ;-)
Go visit the polling area at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/polls



----- Original Message -----
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] age bracket curiosoty


> *****  Moderator's Note  *****
> There is a Create Poll link just above the Open Polls banner
> *****
>
> I tried to make a poll in our area, but there is no "Create a Poll"
button.
> Weird. Administrative duty, perhaps?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 1:59 PM
> Subject: [DML] age bracket curiosoty
>
>
> > With the interest from the college students talking about DeLorean
> ownership:
> > A)  Has there been a survey as to the age category of actual owners?
> > B)  What about Delorean owner want-to-be's? Same age breakdown.
> > under 20 years of age
> > 20 - 25 years of age
> > 26 - 30 years of age
> > 30 - 40 years of age
> > 40 - 60 years of age
> > 60 - 70 years of age
> > over 70 years of age
> >
> > I don't want to monitor it. If it has already been done, would someone
let
> me know either through this format or privately.No guesses. No pretenders
to
> know. No double calls. No lying about your age.
> >
> > It would be interesting, 20 years later,  to see the real ages of owners
> and dreamers of those "LIVING THE DREAM"
> > Marv.
> > #4239
> >
> >
> > Marvin Stein
> > Printed Drinkware Company
> > 924 Dundas Street
> > London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
> > tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
> > fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
> > email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
> > web: printeddrinkware.com
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 03:40:06 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Heater Problem Clarified

Try this: If you can see the heater valve, have someone turn the 
heat on and off (the engine has to be running to do this so BE 
CAREFULL!). You should see the arm on the valve move as they turn 
the heat on and off. If it doesn't then you have one of two problems 
that may cause this: 1. You have a vaccum leak or no vaccum going to 
the valves vaccum diaprhams 2. the valve is frozen closed.

If there is nothing wrong with your valve then you may have a kinked 
or blocked hose. The heater core could also be clogged.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., deloreanss_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Let me try to clear some stuff up about my problem, I would like 
to get this 
> solved ASAP, it is getting cold. I have no heat at the vents per 
se. I don't 
> think I have any heat at the core either. My coolant level is fine 
(always). 
> My thermostat is fine. My system is constantly bled (Thanks again 
DMC Joe). 
> My fans work perfect. My car runs at the correct temperature. I 
haven't tried 
> feeling the hoses that go to the valve, but that is the best idea 
I have 
> heard so far. I will have to do that. If anyone has a suggestion, 
I would 
> appreciate it very much.
> 
> Thanks,
> John Weaver
> ETDOC 
> RED DMC #10527
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 03:42:16 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.

If you have any doubts as to the safety of the trailing arm bolts just 
change them, they aren't expensive and not hard to do. As to the 
tendency for the car to behave differently turning left or right under 
heavy acceleration this is an indication that the thrust angle is not 
correct which requires a 4 wheel alignment to put the proper # of 
shims behind the trailing bolts to get the rear wheels to both point 
straight ahead. Order the trailing bolts and some shims and treat the 
car to a good alignment letting the shop put the new bolts in 
following the correct procedures and torque specs. Even with a proper 
alignment there can be a tendency for torque steer so you can never 
get it perfect.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
> Ok, for a while now, I've had clunking sounds comming from the back 
> of my car. I tighened down 11 out of 12 bolts that mount the body to 
> the chassis, and that has quited things down quite a bit. Anywho, my 
> question is this: Can a bent Trailing Arm Bolt affect the appearance 
> of the car overall? From a distance, the rear end of my car appears 
> to be lower on the driver side. A bit of background info. While I am 
> not abusive to my car, I do drive it hard. The car also has a 
> tendancy to lose traction much easier making right turns, than left 
> ones. It will fishtail, and slide when making hard rights. But hard 
> left turns, it seems to correct itself fairly quickly.
> 
> Any ideas/advice on inspection?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 03:48:05 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.

If your trailing arm bolts are not double nutted then chances are 
that one (or both) have "walked" themselves out. When I removed my 
Trailing arm bolts I found that one of the nuts on the Bolt had come 
loose and allowed the Trailing arm to move out. This caused the bolt 
to bend. If this is the case with yours you SHOULD change them ASAP 
before they break.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
> Ok, for a while now, I've had clunking sounds comming from the 
back 
> of my car. I tighened down 11 out of 12 bolts that mount the body 
to 
> the chassis, and that has quited things down quite a bit. Anywho, 
my 
> question is this: Can a bent Trailing Arm Bolt affect the 
appearance 
> of the car overall? From a distance, the rear end of my car 
appears 
> to be lower on the driver side. A bit of background info. While I 
am 
> not abusive to my car, I do drive it hard. The car also has a 
> tendancy to lose traction much easier making right turns, than 
left 
> ones. It will fishtail, and slide when making hard rights. But 
hard 
> left turns, it seems to correct itself fairly quickly.
> 
> Any ideas/advice on inspection?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 03:49:11 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: towing a delorean

Refer to Delorean Parts Manual 5-1-0 ref # 31 pn 105177 it is refered 
to as Lower Link but to most mechanics they would call it the front 
(left or right) lower control arm. In fact J:11:01 calls it a lower 
control arm. It is not designed to be used to pull the car or hold it 
down, chains or hooks should NEVER be attached to it as it bends 
easily that way. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I know this will sound ignorant so I will ask those of you with 
experience 
> under your belt to forgive me up front.
> 
> I have been looking through Knut Grimsrud's DMC Parts Reference 
Database 
> (Delorean Club of Oregon http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_soft.htm).  I 
can't 
> seem to find any reference to a "control arm".  Can someone tell me 
what I 
> am not suppose to "hook to" (in terms of this particular part by 
> name/number).  This would help me understand my car a little better.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ed
> 10541
> 
> >The safest way is to flatbed it. The operator MUST NOT try to pull 
it
> >on by the lower control arms!
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at 
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 03:55:53 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: towing a delorean

You are absolutly correct about tongue weight. When I first trailered 
my "D" in an enclosed trailer I had a lot of trouble with sway even 
with a hitch with sway control. I tried moving it into different 
positions foward and back but I couldn't move it foward enough. When I 
realized that most of the weight is in the back I backed it into the 
trailer and have been doing so ever since. The only drawback is that 
it isn't the easist car to back up especially into a trailer! Now I 
know why they backed it into Doc's trailer in the movie!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., tonilfhs98_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I have towed it backward on a car carrier at highway speed (65 mph) 
for 300 
> miles with no problem.  I did TAPE DOWN the rear louver with 
ducktape because 
> of concern of it catching the wind and fly off.  The reason of 
towing it 
> backward is due to the weight distribution on the trailer.  I was 
concern 
> with the tongue weight being too light if it was towed forward.  The 
weight 
> of the D is mainly in the rear of the car (60/40 if I remember it 
correctly) 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 00:28:25 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Heater Problem Clarified part 2

Alright, so I have one more thing to add, I just warmed the engine up enough 
to get the juices flowing. I felt the hoses leading into and out of the hot 
water valve. One side (going in) was hot, the other (going out) was cold. The 
plunger device inside of the valve seemed to move pretty easily when cold, 
but seemed frozen once the engine was hot. I hope that this might preclude an 
A/C mode switch problem, but I'd like to hear what anyone has to say.

Thanks once again, 
John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 13:09:03 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean For Sale & Just Reduced

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Please respond to Ben directly.
*****

Here are the details.  If anyone has  any questions, please do not 
hesitate to contact me--my information is below.

PRICE:  NOW $16,700 WAS $18,500

Year:  1982 DeLorean DMC-12

Mileage:  Approx. 37,500 (at the time of this writing)

Color:  Stainless Steel exterior, grey interior.  Black floor mats.  

Transmission:  5-Speed & drives very, very smoothly.

Condition:  Immaculate.  Only one ding on the rear engine support 
(smaller than a nickel).  Please see photos for more detail 
(http://www.jbenboatright.com/delorean.htm).

Upgrades (note:  every item below has a receipt to go with it):  

    --Custom Digital Dash from Dakota Digital.

    --New instrument binnacle (instrument pod) from DMC Houston.

    --Cruise Control from Dakota Digital.

    --New Radio Bracket (From DMC Houston) for DIN-style radios.  

    --SONY In-dash CD Player.  Part of the "Xplod" line from Sony.  
This CD player also plays MP3 files.  

   --LockZilla with new & upgraded door lock solenoids

   --LockZilla Keyless Entry

    --Die Hard Gold Battery

    --SpecialTauto.com "DeLorean 150" High Amp Alternator

    --SpecialTauto.com Upgraded RPM Relay (Bosch), upgraded relays, 
and circuit breakers.  Also includes the "Fan Fix 2x2" (fixes the 
Fan Fail light & operation of the fans).

    --"LampZilla" upgraded tail light circuit boards with upgraded 
55 watt bulbs (much brighter than original).

    --COMPLETELY REPLACED A/C system, using R-134a.  All system 
components have been replaced, including a high-performance 
replacement for the orifice tube.  

    --New A/C fascia decal (panel where the A/C controls are 
located).

    --New A/C mode switch diaphragm (controls where vacuum pressure 
goes to open A/C doors).  

    --NEW 3-core radiator from PJ Grady.  This radiator has 3 
(instead of 2) cores & brass end tanks (vs. the original plastic end 
tanks).  

    --Radiator hoses replaced with new silicone hoses from PJ Grady.

    --New thermostat with gasket.

    --New "Reproduction" Owner's Manual from PJ Grady.

    --New door pulls/straps.  

    --Rear Tires are only 4 months old Michelin Pilot XGT H-rated.  
Front Tires are in very good condition Yokohama AVS.  

    --Overheat protector from DMC Joe. (Prevents air from getting 
into the coolant system.)

    --Spark plug wires (Bosch), plugs (Champion), distributor cap & 
rotor are only 1500 miles old.  

    --New Super Stock coil.  

    --New headlight switch.  

    --New shiftboot (with metal frame) from DMC Houston.

    --"DeLorean" stainless steel letters for rear bumper (see 
photos).  

    --New/upgraded hard urethane steering column bushing.

    --New rear sunshade lift pistons.

    --New Angle Drive & new/improved lower speedometer cable.

    --Upgraded window motor regulators (from PJ Grady).  

    --Upgraded "Adjustable Clutch Link" from PJ Grady.  

    --New "DeLorean" hood emblem.

    --New/Upgraded cooling fans (from Flex-lite) rated at 2000 CFM.  
Also a new Otterstat (temp sensor that turns on the fans).  

    --Workshop & Maintenance manuals

    --Optional FULL collection of "DeLorean World" (from DeLorean 
Owners Association) for a cost of $300.  NOTE:  this would cost you 
at least $400 from DOA.  

    --Optional collection of various spare parts that have been 
removed after upgrading many components--$200.  NOTE:  you could 
sale these items, as almost all of them still work.  

CONTACT INFO:
Ben Boatright
Cell Phone/VM:  404.597.8849
Home:  770.887.1281
tahoe98_at_dml_yahoo.com

Used DeLorean Radiator.  This is the radiator that I removed from my 
DeLorean a couple of weeks ago.  I have replaced it with an upgraded 
brass 3-row radiator from PJ Grady.  The radiator has no leak spots, 
no visible rust anywhere in the radiator (the coolant looked good 
when I flushed the system).  Cost: $50 plus s/h.

I may have some other parts that I put up for sale.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 09:12:26 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Drawings of Bell Housing

I am working on a engine conversion, and I will need to design a new
bell housing for the 5-Speed transmission.

Does anyone have drawings or dimensions for the stock part? Or tell me
where I can find such a thing.

Thanks



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 13:38:16 -0000
From: tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Re: towing a delorean

The trailer itself can also make a huge difference. 

When we took our car from St. Louis to the Cleveland show we borrowed 
a trailer from a friend and what a nightmare!  All over the hiway. I 
had to pry my hands off the steering wheel in Cleveland. On the trip 
back we loaded up the trunk of the D with some ballast and strapped 
the ramps to the front of the trailer.  Handled better.

On our trip to Houston this year we used a race car trailer that we 
bought and it worked like a dream.  Could park the D anywhere on it 
and it pulled and handled flawlessly even during a hiway speed 
evasive manuever to miss some debris in the road.

The main difference in these two trailers is where the axles where 
located.  The race car trailer had them set back further. 

Ron & Cheryl

#6322
BK2-FTR
2001 Houston Concours Winner 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:
> You are absolutly correct about tongue weight. When I first 
trailered 
> my "D" in an enclosed trailer I had a lot of trouble with sway even 
> with a hitch with sway control. I tried moving it into different 
> positions foward and back but I couldn't move it foward enough. 
When I 
> realized that most of the weight is in the back I backed it into 
the 
> trailer and have been doing so ever since. The only drawback is 
that 
> it isn't the easist car to back up especially into a trailer! Now I 
> know why they backed it into Doc's trailer in the movie!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 08:03:56 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question.

A Hint ...

Put grease or heavy wax on the trailing arm bolt before installation.  I had
a case where the bolt rusted and "welded" to the hole so badly that I had to
replace the arm.  The other problem that could arise is that if the part
rusts and welds to the hole, you could get a false torque reading.  It could
be torqued properly at the nut end and be loose at the other end.

Just a suggestion

Nick Kemp




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 10:57:57 EDT
From: P12C16_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: My Views on The Deloreans Magazine

Hello List, 
I like most people received the new DMC magazine in the mail yesterday.  I 
was overwhelmed at the beauty of the cover and of the pictures in the 
magazine itself.  I also however found the magazine to be a little thin, and 
I feel that a $36 subscription fee for 4 thin magazines is a little high.  
Does anyone else feel the same way?

Patrick  (id rather save my $36 and put it toward a refurbished Delorean!)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 11:12:29 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: applause

The email sent by Aaron Crocco regarding the "daily driver"  probability for a young owner caught my attention. He's the young fellow who worked for Grady for the summer. 

There is hope for the future with the next generation of citizens when we have young people like Aaron thinking intelligently, responsibly and being able to express himself verbally. Our life since September 11, has changed in  both attitude and priority. Many worry about where we will go from here, and how we will handle things. Although his comments were directed at an automotive theme, it is comforting to know that all of our youth are not anarchists, and radicals. 

I applaud our younger list followers!

Marv
#4239 

Marvin Stein
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
web: printeddrinkware.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 09:47:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: age bracket curiosoty


If this age bracket poll is impletmented, how about a
"column" showing the number of years of DeLorean
ownership?

Dick Ryan

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 14:33:32 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Battery acid damage

A large piece of plywood that is part of the fiberglass underbody has rotted
due to leaking battery acid.  There is a bracket made of sheet metal that
screws to this plywood at the front bottom of the battery compartment.  Now
that the wood is thorougly rotted away, there is nothing left for this
bracket to attach.  Since this bracket is important for holding the battery
compartment cover in place, I would like to find a way to fix it.  Does
anyone have any experience on replacing this plywood?  It appears to be
thoroughly glued in, but I could be wrong.

Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 09:50:49 -0500
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper_at_dml_intersurf.com>
Subject: Re: Drawings of Bell Housing

look in the tech books from PJ Grady. i have them stored on my computer if
you want me to mail them to you. i want to help you. i have an engine
conversion and have done a little research on the trans myself, lets compare
notes! ive been in contact with a man in Fla that races, street and strip,
this family of trans', he has a lot of info, i just dont have my trans out
to send him picks to analyze. im gunning for POS TRAC rear to handle up to
500hp. not that ill get 500, but better to build it too strong than weak. i
want 300-350 with room to grow.

skipper_at_dml_sk1pper.com
www.sk1pper.com





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 17:01:30 EDT
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: towing a delorean

Setting back the axel means more weight on the tongue.  You can also achieve 
the same thing by extending the tongue.  There are tongue extension kits 
available but the easiest way is still loading the D backwards.
Bill Kwan



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 17:58:39 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: My Views on The Deloreans Magazine

I was actually thinking the same, although I might see how $36 might be what 
they need to publish, but then again, it is pretty high.

John
4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 18:37:57 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: deloreans magazine...

The SSL (secure) subscriptions form is now up and running! There are 12 days
left to receive the reduced "charter" subscription rates.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com


(SNIP)
 
> The secure server to accept subscriptions online is being configured now,
> but you can always call us to subscribe - 800/872-3621. The forums are in
> the final phases of testing, and should be online by the time the next issue
> is mailed in November.
> 
> http://www.deloreans.com
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 18:09:37 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Exhaust tips

My '82 has these great 2 1/2" (OD) slanted exhaust tips that I'm used
to, they look great, I think they're perfect for the car.  Along comes
my '83 with those pathetic little 1 3/4" (OD) round pipes.  Ugh!  Went
looking for tips on the net after first checking out JC Whitney.  Some
40 net pages later still couldn't find what I was looking for.  Thanks
to Bruce Benson I took another look at JC Whitney.  They have these
great looking highly polished 2 1/2" OD SS slanted tips for $13.95
each.  Only Problem, ID is about 2".  OK, I can Mickey mouse something.
(Part # 47TS2884P).  Installed them today, look pretty good for a first
effort but I'm not quite happy with them.  What I did was make 4 slots
in the back with a hack saw, then pounded in two opposite sides slightly
so that the other two sides would sort of overlap and clamp on the small
pipe.  Also from JC Whitney I ordered 2-SS 2" clamps (83TS0713Y).
Pounded the ends down to where the clamps would fit and clamped them in
place.  Almost happy with them but think I'll take them off again and
use some exhaust pipe reducers and larger clamps so that there isn't
such a difference between ID and OD.

I heartily recommend these tips but not necessarily my installation
methods.  The job looks pretty good though, if I do make it better I'll
let you in on it.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/