From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 749
Date: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:29 AM

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Miniature Lamps vs Led's
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Exhaust tips
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

3. D not running well (but not mine)
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

4. Low Mileage Purchase Tips?
From: "Pete Bartusek" <pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com>

5. deloreans magazine
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

6. Re: Was Re: towing a delorean Now Hop-Ins
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Re: Sunstar toy
From: stephen_at_dml_bttf.com

8. Part Throttle "bucking"...
From: "Eric" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

9. Haloween DeLorean
From: joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com

10. T-Panel and Passenger door rubbing
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Re: Exhaust tips
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

12. deloreans magazine..one mo' time!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

13. Re: Was Re: towing a delorean Now Hop-Ins
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Part Throttle "bucking"...
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

15. Re: D not running well (but not mine)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: deloreans magazine
From: P12C16_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: D not running well (but not mine)
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

18. Re: DeLorean magazine
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>

19. Re: Part Throttle "bucking"...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Haloween DeLorean
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Rear Bumper Silver DeLorean Lettering
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com

22. failed inspection steering rack.
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. Re: Haloween DeLorean
From: Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 05:11:02 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Miniature Lamps vs Led's

Mike,Bill and Group, I to had though of Led's instead of incandescent 
lamps as tail lights. But I didn't give it much thought till I have 
heard the comments made by several people on the DML list. I took 
Mikes suggestion and called Jam Strait and got samples. I have spent 
the better part of saturday setting up a jig and testing them against 
bulbs. 1st, Let me say that Jam Strait is a very good and up front 
company to work with. I got the samples and prices list. Here's the 
good and bad.

1156SR, Super bright red . List $12.00 ea. Tested
1156sa, Super bright amber. List $15.00 ea. Tested
1156sw, super bright white, List $41.00 ea. Did't get to test.
They are just what they say. Cool, Low current so on.

So, I got my catalog down on miniture lamps again and did a little 
more studying on the tail light bulbs. 
1st off there are only two tail lights on under normal driving 
condition at night. That is the #87/89 bulb in the middle. These are 
13 volt .58 amps. These don't cast off a lot of heat and the current 
draw would't even be noticed by the alternator. They are also rated 
750 hours of life. At 60 MPH, That 45,000 miles of driving when you 
may have to replace them. If you want to brighten it up, I'll get to 
that later.   
The other 4 lights in the rear assembly are the demands, The 1156. 
These bulbs 12.8 volts 2.1 amps ea and a 1200 hr life. They run HOT. 
So I started looking to see what can be done to cut down on the 
current draw and not sacrafice to much light out the back. The #93 
bulb only draws 1.04 amps ea on the test and has a 750 hr life. I 
could only notice a 10% or so drop in output thru the rear lenses. 
The LED's was about 50% less with red, especially and maby a 20% drop 
in amber.
So my conclusion was: If your not happy with the brightness with the 
center tail light in the middle, then up it to the #93. 1156 is to 
hot to run all the time in the small cavity.  That will get you more 
brightness in the middle.. Then If you want to cut down on the 
current draw of 1156 ( 2.1 amps )for the other rear lights try the 
#93. The #93 will light up center tail light nicely. Then when you 
step on the brake two more 1156 or #93 come on, and if your turning 
the corner and have the directional signal on then you will add one 
#93 or 1156. You can't back up at the same time #93 also. Then X's 
two this. maby 12 to 14 amps in the worst case with 1156 which can do 
damage to the tail lenses due to the heat they put out. If you want 
to cool things down. Then try the #93 in all holes in the rear tail. 
You may not tell the difference.
If I would have asked for a super bright white 1156SW  LED light at 
$41.00 list then things might have turned out different. But $41.00 
ea for tail lights. WOW. Some people have a hard time updating the 
oil drain plug at $12.95. I will have photo's on the web site next 
week for viewing. I will also be sending back my samples. The 
products are built great. The Led's are mounted on a G10 epoxy glass 
board and are flow soldered to the boards. Really, they are good, but 
I will go the #93 route for about $1.00 ea.  I am also testing the 
Led 194 dash light also. 
I just don't think the LED's are for the Delorean unless you want to 
shell out $41.00 ea. We also don't have rear chrome reflectors. Will 
advise on others.10/20/01.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
       
    




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 01:27:51 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust tips

In a message dated 10/20/01 12:06:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net writes:


> My '82 has these great 2 1/2" (OD) slanted exhaust tips that I'm used
> to, they look great, I think they're perfect for the car.  Along comes
> my '83 with those pathetic little 1 3/4" (OD) round pipes.  Ugh!  Went
> looking for tips on the net after first checking out JC Whitney.  Some
> 40 net pages later still couldn't find what I was looking for.  Thanks
> 

The rear fascia "notch" where the pipes come out the back is the same size 
for either style pipe, yet there have been some reports of heat warped 
fascias from improper upsized exhaust tips.  I'm not saying these particular 
ones are a problem... I'm sure Bruce would know.  Just a caution to anyone 
who thinks any tip can be slapped on with no possible downside.  (The 
vendors, of course, only have the larger tips as a part of the whole muffler 
assembly.)

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174 with nice '82 tips! :)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 06:02:55 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: D not running well (but not mine)

Hey folks, today I visited another MN DeLorean owner's place to try 
and see whats wrong with his car.

What its doing...
Starts up right away, but then idles very rough, but will eventually 
smooth out.
Any throttle movement will almost kill the car.  There were a few 
times I could get it to about 4500, but usually it wouldn't go past 
1800 no matter how well I played with the throttle.
There seems to be an apparent exhaust leak on the passenger side, most 
likely the manifold gasket, the owner said it wasn't this loud before.

What I checked...
Swapped RPM and LAMBDA relays from my car, no avail.
Removed fuel pump and inspected hoses, all good there.
Did some unplugging and plugging back in of electricals for CPR, Cold 
start valve, frequency valve, and idle motor, everything acted as it 
should.
Idle switch works fine.
Full throttle switch is sticky, but currently unplugged.
Tamper-Proof plug is missing.

My theory...
The owner says this happened very suddenly.  He drove it to work one 
afternoon, all was good.  When he started it up to go home, this was 
happening.  Almost every fuel system and ignition component has been 
replace on the car probably about 1000 miles ago.  I suspect that the 
fuel adjustment was never quite tuned proporly (hence no plug of any 
kind on the adjustment hole).  I also suspect that the engine could 
have heated up just enough after being shut off, to break some kind of 
seal on the exhaust manifold.  With this leak now there, the change in 
backpressure has thrown the fuel adjustment way out of whack.

However...
About a month ago, I was messing around with my exhaust system, and 
ended up with a fairly massive leak at the front seal for the CAT.  
The engine idle and reved fine (just a helluva lot louder) but under 
load, it would shake VERY violently.  I somehow cured this buy 
shooting between 30mph and 60mph entirely in 2nd gear 3 times at 
wide-open-throttle, keeping it in gear when coasting back down to 30. 
 Now I still had the leak, but the engine was perfectly smooth at all 
throttles at all speeds in every gear.  Somehow somthing must have 
compensated.  When I got the leak sealed up, there was no change in 
engine operation.  It would have been nice to try this in his car, but 
we really couldn't get the D faster than 20mph.

The Questions...
I am suspecting the reason for this is because his fuel adjustment may 
have been out of whack in the first place, but was just good enough so 
the engine would run fine under normal condions.  And now that they're 
not normal, it just can't do it.  How close am I?  Any other 
suggesions?  Would you recommend fixing the exhaust leak first, or 
fine-tuning the fuel adjustment?

It seems this post has turned out to be longer than anticipated, but 
at least its detailed!  Thanks for any advise.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 11:02:42 -0400
From: "Pete Bartusek" <pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Low Mileage Purchase Tips?

Hi everyone... I'm currently looking at a couple low mileage (8k-11k)
Deloreans, both are in very clean condition, although underneath it
looks very good - but not all shiny like I'd be sticking a mirror under
it at some concours :).  

My question - What are some things to look for on low mileage Deloreans?
I've gone through the obvious - the car rides fine and the body looks
good...but how worried should I be about the seals, levels of
maintenance, etc...I mean, with most cars, 9000 miles is about three oil
changes...I go through that in 6 months on my daily driver.  20 years is
a different picture... I'm not expecting 40 oil change receipts for a
car that's been sitting idle most of the time, or should I be...?  What
would the price range dictate for working cars with 8k-11k miles in good
condition on the open market? (I've seen everything from $11k-$23k
lately...

Thanks in advance for your help!
Pete




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 10:29:50 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: deloreans magazine

Creating good content, issue after issue, is not an easy task.  You need to:
- Come up with something interesting to the readers
- Write the article (as well as doing your regular job)
- Create the artwork
- Edit and format
- Publish

Once it is published you can sit back and enjoy all the wonderful comments
you get (1 - 10% will say something nice).  It is always easier to be the
critic than the creator.

Be it the new DMC magazine or the DOA magazine, creating consistently good
content is a lot of work.

I PROPOSE THAT:
- We should all consider creating content for the magazine
- That the DML is THE BEST resource available and that we should use it to
promote the various publications
- That there is a lot to be contributed from the DML
- When we feel like being critical, put your energy towards creating
something for publication.

Nick Kemp




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 11:42:36 -0400
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Was Re: towing a delorean Now Hop-Ins

  
This probably doesn't apply as much to the whole towing situation, but it does bring up a good point.  At the meeting of ETDOC in July in Asheville, we had a gentleman show up who had his car towed in a rollback.  Instead of loading it forward, they loaded it backward; traveling at a decent speed with the car facing backward caused the louveres to rip off.  As of July, he was still trying to get the company to pay for the louvers, them stating they don't pay for "automotive defects"


Scott
16738


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:45:34 -0000
From: stephen_at_dml_bttf.com
Subject: Re: Sunstar toy

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "ACK, k." <particleman01_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Does anybody know when the new 1-18th Sunstar DeLorean
> model is supposedly coming out in stores? Does it
> matter what region you are in, I'm in Oregon. I
> haven't seen them out yet, and none of the stores I've
> talked to have had any info.
> 
> Alec
> particleman01_at_dml_y...
> www.adelorean.cjb.net


Sunstar tells us that the stock DeLorean 1:18 scale die-casts will be 
available in early November, while the "Back to the Future" version 
is due in mid December.

-- Stephen _at_dml_ BTTF.com

Come visit our props & costumes exhibit at the Florida Extravaganza  
FX-2002, Feburary 16-17, 2002 in Orlando, Florida with celebrity 
guests Tom Wilson and Jeffrey Weissman!  http://www.bttf.com/fx-2002/





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 13:40:19 -0000
From: "Eric" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Part Throttle "bucking"...

Hi Folks,
A few weeks back I posted a question based on my problem with my D 
having a "Deceleration Problem". Wow, thanks for all of your reply's 
especially that of DMCjoe.

Well, I've learned a lot since then - but not enough to solve my 
problem. But, I figured I'd repost what I've learned and maybe ask 
for some more responses to see if I can't get more enlightenment from 
others here that have more experience than I.

First, I have learned to better describe my problem as a "Part 
Throttle" bucking or severe hesitation problem. Because upon HEAVY 
acceleration - the problem does not exist. Nor does it exist during 
an idle or during level cruising (as long as you keep the lightest 
touch on the accelerator.

The problem does NOT exist when the engine is cold, or even cold-warm.
But gets worse as the engine comes up to temperature.

Also, based performing some diagnostics (thanks DMC Joe!- and the 
Bosch K-jetronic book) I have learned it is NOT: a vacuum leak, all 
of the vacumm hoses are now new, so is the vacuum thermal valve that 
sits under the intake. It is not the frequency valve, the O2 sensor, 
or the RPM relay.  (By the way, if you have an oscilloscope handy - 
this makes this a breeze to test!  Anyone nearby me in Clearwater is 
welcome to borrow mine if needed).

I believe I have it down to a specific area or circuit. I'm now left 
looking at a few components: The Control pressure Regulator, the cold 
start injector, or the (ugh) fuel distributor. 

The car is running VERY rich. (black, rich smeeling exhaust is 
obvious). It gives every symptom of a carburated engine that is being 
choked - having too much fuel or not enough air. Although, I'm 
reasonably confident the airflow sensor plate and those circuits are 
working well.

Knowing everything I've bored you with here - I'd be grateful for any 
more advise. 

Thanks
Eric Peterson
Vin# 5557
ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:38:57 -0000
From: joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Haloween DeLorean

  Hi,
   A few weeks or months ago there was somebody who was asking about 
a Haloween thing with his DeLorean and dry-ice. They were also asking 
for ideas or suggestens. I have an idea but I don't know if it hurt 
your interior of you car; but anyway what if you got a fog machine or 
two or what ever number you want and put them in the car close to the 
doors like behind the seats and maybe roll down the windows about 
half way or something.You can also maybe get some strope lights and 
hang them from the seilling or put them under you car or even flash 
them off the walls maybe in the corners. You can even get some music 
and play it; but I don't know what kind to get.
   If you my ideas then good luck and if you don't than that's fine 
too.
      Josh.




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:41:18 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: T-Panel and Passenger door rubbing

Hey all,

i've noticed a problem with my passenger side door.  when you open it, it 
seems like the middle of the top edge of the door rubs against the T-panel 
about halfway up, and the farther up it goes, it rubs further down the 
T-panel towards the front of the car.  there is a smooth discoloration on my 
passenger side door in the front corner of it.  also, i can watch the t-panel 
from the front of the car and i can see it slightly flexing or getting pushed 
to the driver's side.  

my passenger door closes pretty well, but it's not perfect.  the front latch 
catches slightly before the rear latch does, and the main latch then latches 
at the same time for both sides.  so, it seems to be set a little bit wrong.  
the front closes slightly before the rear.

is this a door problem or a T-Panel problem?  i am just wondering because i 
probably won't get this fixed until next spring unless it does not involve 
any torsion bar adjustments (in that case i may do it while the car is in 
storage).  what must be done?

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 15:18:26 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust tips

These tips are the exact OD as the stock units on the '82.  The aperture on the '83 is
the same size as that on the '82.  Positioning of the tips within that aperture is also
the same.  The top of the angle cut tip now extends a little further from the bumper than
the small round original.  It is expected that exhaust will now be released a little
farther away from the bumper and be deflected in a more downward direction.

deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 10/20/01 12:06:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net writes:
>
> > My '82 has these great 2 1/2" (OD) slanted exhaust tips that I'm used
> > to, they look great, I think they're perfect for the car.  Along comes
> > my '83 with those pathetic little 1 3/4" (OD) round pipes.  Ugh!  Went
> > looking for tips on the net after first checking out JC Whitney.  Some
> > 40 net pages later still couldn't find what I was looking for.  Thanks
> >
>
> The rear fascia "notch" where the pipes come out the back is the same size
> for either style pipe, yet there have been some reports of heat warped
> fascias from improper upsized exhaust tips.  I'm not saying these particular
> ones are a problem... I'm sure Bruce would know.  Just a caution to anyone
> who thinks any tip can be slapped on with no possible downside.  (The
> vendors, of course, only have the larger tips as a part of the whole muffler
> assembly.)
>
> Wayne A. Ernst
> DMCTech Group
> vin 11174 with nice '82 tips! :)
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 15:28:54 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: deloreans magazine..one mo' time!

The consensus is that it's a basically sound idea and should be given a
chance.

To the naysayers I keep thinking of a new restaurant opening and when
you try it the peas are cold.  You then say you don't like restaurants
with cold peas and tell your friends to stay away because they have cold
peas.  Yeeesh II.




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:36:35 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Was Re: towing a delorean Now Hop-Ins

<This probably doesn't apply as much to the whole towing situation, but it 
does bring up a good point. At the meeting of ETDOC in July in Asheville, we 
had a gentleman show up who had his car towed in a rollback. Instead of 
loading it forward, they loaded it backward; traveling at a decent speed with 
the car facing backward caused the louveres to rip off. As of July, he was 
still trying to get the company to pay for the louvers, them stating they 
don't pay for "automotive defects">


Scott,

       This is the exact fellow I was describing, Ed Garbade. So there is 
some witness to my testimony. It wasn't pretty. I put a quote of his in a 
recent post. I wonder if Ed still reads DML stuff, I'd like to get his take 
on the issue as he has been there.

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 17:45:17 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Part Throttle "bucking"...

Eric,

> upon HEAVY
> acceleration - the problem does not exist.

This evidence should eliminate anything in the fuel tank -- pick-up screen,
suction hose, fuel pump, fuel filter.

> Nor does it exist during
> an idle or during level cruising (as long as you keep the lightest
> touch on the accelerator.

What happens when you don't keep pressure on the accelerator?  The engine
runs rough?  This makes me think that perhaps the problem is a dragging idle
speed motor.  I have a spare in addition to the one on my car if you want to
swap them out and see.

> The problem does NOT exist when the engine is cold, or even cold-warm.

This evidence should eliminate anything to do with the Lambda system.

> But gets worse as the engine comes up to temperature.

This is really unusual, and I have never read of this before in the DML
archives.

> I believe I have it down to a specific area or circuit. I'm now left
> looking at a few components: The Control pressure Regulator, the cold
> start injector, or the (ugh) fuel distributor.

Since the problem is temperature related, it would seem natural to suspect
some part of the engine that is temperature sensitive.  The most obvious one
left is the CPR.  But usually the problems that I hear about on these are
only while the unit is cold.  I suspect that your CPR may be stuck on a low
pressure output which has an inverse effect in the fuel distributor (making
the engine run too rich).  It may be rich as it is warming up, but it is
designed to do this per se.  But then after your engine is warm, the CPR may
be keeping the pressure too low when it should gradually increase.  That is
just a theory.

It may also be that your cold start valve is leaking.  This would make the
fuel mixture too rich also, but if it were leaking bad enough then it might
also cause a hot start problem which apparently you don't have.

The way to check both of these theories is with a fuel pressure gauge.  What
may make this difficult is that you may need to drive the car in order to
demonstrate the problem.  Doing this while having a fuel pressure gauge
temporarily mounted in the engine compartment isn't a very safe thing to do.

I have a fuel pressure gauge you can borrow.  If you want to make an
afternoon of it, we can swap parts between our cars to find the problem.  I
have a few extra copper crush washers, but not enough to swap out the fuel
distributor.  (But that shouldn't be necessary).  If you come up with a hand
full of crush washers, I have a spare fuel distributor which I'm curious to
test.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:35:57 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: D not running well (but not mine)

> What its doing...
> Starts up right away, but then idles very rough, but will eventually
> smooth out.
> Any throttle movement will almost kill the car.  There were a few
> times I could get it to about 4500, but usually it wouldn't go past
> 1800 no matter how well I played with the throttle.

Jim,

I had these symptoms on my car before.

Twice it was caused by the lambda system not working (once due to the lambda
relay and once due to a corroded electrical connection at the frequency
valve itself.)  Check if the valve is buzzing like it does on your car.

Once it was caused by a bad electrical connection to the CPR.  When
electricity doesn't get to the CPR (or the CPR doesn't respond to it) then
any attempt at cold acceleration is counter-productive.

> There seems to be an apparent exhaust leak on the passenger side, most
> likely the manifold gasket, the owner said it wasn't this loud before.

This may make the engine noisy, but it shouldn't contribute to any
acceleration problems.  If anything, it should help the engine breathe
better.

> What I checked...
> Swapped RPM and LAMBDA relays from my car, no avail.

If the engine runs at all, then it couldn't be the RPM relay.  This only
switches on the fuel pump.  A dead Lambda relay will stop the frequency
valve from working, so a better test is to listen to see if you can tell if
the frequency valve is buzzing.

> Did some unplugging and plugging back in of electricals for CPR, Cold
> start valve, frequency valve, and idle motor, everything acted as it
> should.

Did you check the plugs/sockets for corrosion?  I think it is prudent to
pack these with dielectric grease to keep water out of them.  It has been a
problem on my car before.

> Tamper-Proof plug is missing.

Plug this hole before you try anything else.  It doesn't need to look
pretty -- just find something that blocks air movement through this hole.
Even a bolt covered with duct tape will suffice for temporary use.  This
vacuum leak may contribute to the problem, but it sounds like the engine has
something more wrong with it than a vacuum leak here.

> My theory...
> The owner says this happened very suddenly.  He drove it to work one
> afternoon, all was good.  When he started it up to go home, this was
> happening.

It is possible that whoever removed the tamper-proof plug either forgot to
put it back or stuck a homemade replacement in there that fell out.  Check
around the adjustment hole to see if you find the plug or a homemade one
laying on top of the engine.

>I also suspect that the engine could
> have heated up just enough after being shut off, to break some kind of
> seal on the exhaust manifold.  With this leak now there, the change in
> backpressure has thrown the fuel adjustment way out of whack.

I strongly disagree with this.  I agree that a change in backpressure will
have a small effect on fuel adjustment, but not enough to produce the
symptoms that you describe.

> However...
> About a month ago, I was messing around with my exhaust system, and
> ended up with a fairly massive leak at the front seal for the CAT.
> The engine idle and reved fine (just a helluva lot louder) but under
> load, it would shake VERY violently.  I somehow cured this buy
> shooting between 30mph and 60mph entirely in 2nd gear 3 times at
> wide-open-throttle, keeping it in gear when coasting back down to 30.

It sounds like the hard acceleration may have worked a clog out of the fuel
system -- maybe something blocking one of the injectors?  Maybe your CAT is
internally damaged and the hard acceleration shook or blew a restriction out
of the way.  Maybe a restriction in the CAT contributed to the leaky front
seal.

>  Now I still had the leak, but the engine was perfectly smooth at all
> throttles at all speeds in every gear.  Somehow somthing must have
> compensated.  When I got the leak sealed up, there was no change in
> engine operation.  It would have been nice to try this in his car, but
> we really couldn't get the D faster than 20mph.

That sounds pathetic.  Plug the vacuum leak!  And then see what you get.

> The Questions...
> I am suspecting the reason for this is because his fuel adjustment may
> have been out of whack in the first place, but was just good enough so
> the engine would run fine under normal condions.  And now that they're
> not normal, it just can't do it.  How close am I?

There is no telling what a previous mechanic may have done.  If the owner
indicated that the car suddenly got worse 1000 miles later, than I assume
the mechanic didn't screw up the adjustments too bad.  One thing to check
for sure is if any of the idle adjustment screws have been backed out.
(They all should be lightly seated.)  If so, then be on the lookout for
similar blunders.

> Any other
> suggesions?  Would you recommend fixing the exhaust leak first, or
> fine-tuning the fuel adjustment?

Ignore the exhaust leak for now.  It shouldn't have a significant effect on
engine performance.  I wouldn't expect the fuel adjustment to be too far out
considering that the car was running okay before.  To check the fuel
adjustment properly you need an exhaust gas analyzer.  Eventually this
should be done.

> It seems this post has turned out to be longer than anticipated, but
> at least its detailed!  Thanks for any advise.

Cool.  I tend to neglect my duties in favor of playing with DeLoreans, so
this contributes to my delinquency.  :)

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:44:50 EDT
From: P12C16_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: deloreans magazine

I totally back up what Nick is saying.  I wasn't totally trying to bash the 
magazine with my initial view.  I respect what the DMC is doing and posted my 
criticism to see what others thought.  Lets hope that all of these 
suggestions help this to become a great magazine.  I have decided to purchase 
a subscription, even though I find the price a little high, to support the 
company and I have high hopes that the magazine will take off and become a 
must have for all delorean enthusiasts.  Maybe a section in the back with ads 
for people who are trying to sell their DMCs would be great too?  

Patrick    VIN:  I wish!



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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:00:05 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: D not running well (but not mine)

The fuel enrichment hole MUST be sealed.  This will solve your problem.

Bill Lane
3635




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:05:10 -0700
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean magazine

Patrick,
Yeah, there already is a DeLorean magazine with a classified section with
DeLorean Owners selling their cars, It's called DeLorean World, and has
been around for about 18 years now. It still has new and interesting
articles, including all released tech notes, and many other various
mechanical tidbits. You can even order any of the past issues.
Information is available via the DeLorean store and The DeLorean Owners
Association web site

www.deloreanstore.com
www.delorean-owners.org


Trevor Johnson
DOA Director of Publicity
www.deloreancars.homestead.com
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:39:05 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Part Throttle "bucking"...

Eric, The only way the gas gets to the cylinders is thru the slits in the 
control plunger in the fuel distributor. If it's to high up, then to much 
gas.There is a couple of things that can let it ride to high to create the 
rich running. Call me or email me privatly to discuss.
John Hervey
  http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:42:50 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Haloween DeLorean

Josh, I'm setting my Delorean up for halloween with a fogger I bought at 
party city. $49.95. Worked great with the remote control and didn't leave a 
after smell.
John Hervey




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:46:52 EDT
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Silver DeLorean Lettering

Hello Everyone,
I have noticed on some cars they have silver lettering on their rear bumpers. 
 Where do you get them.  I have looked at the suppliers on the list, but 
don't see anyone that carries them.
Frank
Vin:  16509



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 02:02:13 -0000
From: johndmc57_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: failed inspection steering rack.

Not being able to order parts for my steering rack I took a couple of 
brass pin bushings and had them turned at the machine shop.The fit is 
perfect and the D is back on the road after several weeks. The car 
goes straight and smooth at high speeds and I will be putting it 
through some curves to test it out.
john




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Haloween DeLorean

there are two types of fog machines there is a  water
based which heats the water makeing steam, this could
be quite damaging to your car. if youve ever been in a
steam room you'll know what Im talking about. the
other is a cemical compount which produces smoke, I am
unsure of this method but I wouldn't try either
version in a DeLorean or any other car. By the way Dry
Ice can also damage your car if it leaks. I personally
would use any type of fog or smoke to gain any kind of
affect, it's gonna cost you in the long run and cause
extensive damage. this is just a side note.

Wayne
--- joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com wrote:
>   Hi,
>    A few weeks or months ago there was somebody who
> was asking about 
> a Haloween thing with his DeLorean and dry-ice. They
> were also asking 
> for ideas or suggestens. I have an idea but I don't
> know if it hurt 
> your interior of you car; but anyway what if you got
> a fog machine or 
> two or what ever number you want and put them in the
> car close to the 
> doors like behind the seats and maybe roll down the
> windows about 
> half way or something.You can also maybe get some
> strope lights and 
> hang them from the seilling or put them under you
> car or even flash 
> them off the walls maybe in the corners. You can
> even get some music 
> and play it; but I don't know what kind to get.
>    If you my ideas then good luck and if you don't
> than that's fine 
> too.
>       Josh.
> 
> 
> 
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> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
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> 
> 


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