From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 763
Date: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 6:43 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: wet floor
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

2. DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: jugeauj_at_dml_gdls.com

3. Re: Torsion bar rust
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. front rotors for sale
From: RFLRKV_at_dml_cs.com

7. Re: unusual speedo failure
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

8. Re: wet floor
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Strange Stalling problem
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 23:33:04 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: wet floor

Source of the leak depends on 1 of 2 things: Does the leak occur when 
driving, or when stopped?

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I recently noticed that my drivers side floor get soaked when it 
rains. It is not leaking through the door anywhere and my floor is 
perfectly intact. This has probally been a problem for years as the 
carpet is slightly stained from when I bought it. Do any of you have 
an idea if perhaps it is leaking through the vent in front of the 
windsheild or if perhaps through the foot well?
> 
> Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_o...
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 18:47:40 -0500
From: jugeauj_at_dml_gdls.com
Subject: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?


Hi All,

   Not having played with this type of injection system before I'm not sure
of what I'm looking at concerning how the fuel injectors are supposed to
work.

   I've finally gotten around to hooking the fuel lines back up on #4337.
Long story short, from what I can deduce and from what I've been told from
previous owners (#2 and #3, I'm #4), the car sat around with water
throughout its fuel lines for the better part of ten years.
Suffice it to say a lot of parts have been replaced.

   Using kerosene (less explosive fumes to contend with), I unhooked the
fuel pump and wired a 12V battery across it (happen to be more convenient
at the time than bypassing via the fuse box, etc.) and watched for what
kind of crud came through.

   Then came the check for leaks around the distributor, etc.
Mostly out of curiosity, I pulled two injectors out and ran the pump again.
Both injectors emitted a thin stream (not a spray) of fluid.
Just to test the injectors themselves I went ahead and pressed down on the
airflow sensor and got a nice spray pattern (yeah, I know the catalytic is
probably going to love me for that).
I was lead to believe that with the airflow sensor completely closed (as in
the case with the engine not running) no fuel should make it's way to the
injectors. Is this true?
Is the distributor supposed to allow raw fuel into the intake or is there a
problem stemming from either of the following:
1) Central fuel plunger valve (sorry, don't know the correct name for it)
in the fuel distributor is bad?
2) The 12V battery I used couldn't work the pump up to around 65psi thereby
not charging the system with enough fuel pressure for the plunger and other
associated components to function properly?
3)  Fuel filter was significantly plugged up to restrict fuel flow thereby
yielding the same problem(s) as in #2)?

I apologize if this turns out to be a relatively basic question.
I only get to work on the car on weekends and didn't give myself enough
time to experiment on my own (getting fuel pressure readings, etc).
I figured I'd ask the group during the week to fuel myself with more
information to work with this coming weekend.

Thanks a lot,

Louis





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 00:16:45 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Torsion bar rust

The torsion bar is made from cryogenically tempered spring steel, and 
is highly stressed due to the 90 degree twist that it has to go 
through every time the door is opened or closed.  Any scratches or 
corrosion pits (even microscopic pits) can lead to fatigue cracks in 
the bar, which will eventually result in failure of the bar in 
fatigue.  The bar should be thoroughly cleaned with a fine scotchbrite 
pad or stainless steel wool, but not regular steel wool.  The iron 
particles in steel wool will create a corrosion cell very quickly, if 
they are imbedde din the material of the bar.  The cleaned bar should 
then be painted with a good rust-inhibiting paint, or treated with a 
rust inhibitor such as cosmoline, or something like it.  BTW - 
replacement of the bar is no big deal ... BUYING the replacement can 
be, as I understand it.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> How worried should I be about slight signs of torsion bar rust on my 
driver's side that I have been recently noticing?  Is this something I 
can cure on my own or am I talking about a difficult torsion bar 
replacement?
> 
> Thank you for any help,
> 
> Richard




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:23:30 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: front brake rotor replacement

Some of my brake pulsation started after making those hard stops.  That was
shortly after I got the car, and I wanted to see how it handled.  Since then
I have gotten wiser and the pulsation has gotten progressively worse.
Sometimes it is mild, and other times it is pretty bad.  I suppose that both
front rotors are warped, and when both bad spots hit 180 degrees apart then
it is real bad.  If I let go of the wheel and stop at a traffic light, the
steering wheel will wobble with an amplitude (peak to peak) of 10 to 12mm.
That's measuring at the outer perimeter of the wheel.  (You can tell I have
an engineering background :)

After I had my front wheels re-aligned, the pulsation was barely noticeable.
But that was done right after I installed lowered front springs.  As they
broke in over the next few hundred miles, my alignment is no longer as
toe-in as they should be.  The wheels are more pointing straight ahead.  Now
the pulsation is as bad as ever again.

I am aware that over-tightening the lug nuts on many cars can warp the
rotors, but I don't see how this is possible on the front wheels of the
DeLorean due to how the lugs are isolated from the rotor.  But I keep an
open mind and a torque wrench handy when putting my wheels on.

If my brake problems are not the result of over-heating from hard stops,
then I would say that mine were from a bad batch -- particularly the rear
rotors.  One of them has a chip on the perimeter and a gouge that covers
2-3mm around 1/3rd of the outer perimeter.  This gouge came from never
having any metal there to begin with.  Whoever originally cut this one
wasn't paying attention.  And then whoever put it on the car wasn't paying
attention either.  That rotor should have never been used.

I got all the new parts -- rotors, calipers, master cylinder, pads, etc.
It's just a matter of finding the time to do it.  But I'm not complaining.
I actually LIKE working on this car.  :)

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 00:40:19 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: front brake rotor replacement

The solid disk rotors can warp if overheated (obviously).  I did a 
couple of things to prevent warpage in my car.  I removed the dust 
shields to allow free flow of air through the area to enhance cooling. 
I installed new pads (Metalux brand) that run about 200 - 250 degrees 
cooler than normal semi-metallic pads.  I am in the planning stages of 
installing active air ducting to the front brakes ... next couple of 
months.  Result - no problems in several years of agressive driving on 
the street and on the road race track (turns 3A and 3B will do in just 
about any set of brakes - Seattle International Raceway).  The tip 
about hand-torqueing the lug nuts is key also.  That is good advice on 
any car you care about.  You might want to see if the warpage in your 
rotors can be cleaned up with machining, rather than going straight to 
replacement.  Mine were badly warped when I bought the car 13 years 
ago, but cleaned up nicely, and are still above service limit for 
thickness.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Can anyone give me some pointers on replacing the front brake 
rotors?  The
> workshop manual doesn't give any procedure for this.  Should I 
re-pack the
> wheel bearings while I'm in there?
> 
> When my mom asked me why I keep shaking the steering wheel every 
time I put
> the brakes on, I figure I have been driving with this dangerous 
condition
> long enough.  How did the rotors get warped that bad?  Two hard 
stops in a
> row from 60mph.  That screwed them up real good.  And to think that 
the
> window sticker on these cars bragged about the 4 wheel disk brakes.  
But
> then it also bragged about the wonderful epoxy coated frame, and we 
all know
> how that turned out.
> 
> I will say that the brakes are certainly adequate to stop the car 
ONCE.  But
> you better give them time to cool before you stomp on it again.
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 19:40:33 EST
From: RFLRKV_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: front rotors for sale

    Dear Anyone,
   I bought front rotors unnessesarily. You may buy them CHEAP.
   They are newly turned and still within specs.
   Any offer considered. rflrkv_at_dml_yahoo.com



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 00:27:22 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: unusual speedo failure

Several cars in our club have had the caps repaired by applying 
electrical tape to the outside edge of the cap to make it snug in the 
hub or spindle.  This is a fairly common problem, from what we've 
seen. Another challenge is that the cap becomes "rounded off" inside 
where the square end of the cable engages the cap.  When that happens, 
the cap will no longer spin the cable.  The quick fix is to cut out a 
narrow strip of aluminum or steel sheet (approx. 1/8th inch X 3/4 inch 
X .032 inch thick) give or take.  Bend it into a squared off "U", and 
insert it into the rounded out hole in the cap.  This fix recreates 
the square shape to properly engage the cable end.  Also, the hole in 
the spindle is too large for the diameter of the cable, which allows 
the cable to flop around quite a bit.  This wears the cap, cable, and 
can affect the angle drive.  The quick fix is to get a length of 
copper, mild steel, or aluminum tube that fits snuggly into the 
spindle hole, and still allows the cable to fit through.  Cut to the 
length of the spindle, and gently insert it in.  The cable should run 
straighter and quieter through the reduced diameter hole. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I haven't had time to do anything with my noisy fuel pump, but I did 
fix my
> speedometer.  I have never heard of anyone having one malfunction 
like this.
> To make a long story short, the problem turned out to be that the 
dust
> shield (I call it the angle drive hub) was slipping.  There was 
about 1mm
> side-to-side play between the dust shield and the hub.  Some of that 
slop is
> due to wear.  I think that what contributed to this problem was my 
cutting
> the angle drive cable shorter to stop it from jamming in the dust 
shield.
> (I don't recommend this because it frays on the end.)  Anyway, now 
the dust
> shield can seat completely into the hub, but there is no longer any
> compression in the angle drive cable to push the dust shield against 
the rim
> to allow it to grab.  I fixed this by wrapping some duct tape around 
the
> dust shield to make it hold tighter into the hub.  I don't like 
this, but
> it's the best thing I could come up with at this point.
> 
> And, yes, my angle drive and upper & lower cable are well 
lubricated.  But
> still the friction in these parts was enough to let the dust shield 
slip.
> 
> There was another list member who fixed a similar problem on his D 
(the one
> where the angle drive cable is too long).  He fixed it by making a 
hole in
> the dust shield rather than cutting the cable.  If you are reading 
this, let
> us know if your dust shield starts slipping.
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:04:09 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: wet floor

Hi Casey,
    I had the same problem but on both sides of the car.  I could see it 
dripping down on the floor after I washed the car.  It turned out that the 
hood stops that the hood rests on when closed was missing on both sides.  I 
bought new ones and put silicone on the threads to make the seal tight.  
Also,  if some of the screws that hold the grill on under the windshield are 
missing, water can get in through the holes.

just something to check

David
6286



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 21:43:52 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Strange Stalling problem

Kevin, Several things could be going on. Gas feed, loss of fuel pump 
connections for a second. Look and see if the connector coming off the 
inertia switch shows and signs of melting.If you may have hit the connector 
with your foot and pulled it loose just enough to barely make contact. Press 
it in good after you take it out and reinstall it. Also, check the wires on 
the ignition coil and the white resistor against the fire wall. When was the 
last time the accumulator was replaced. You can see the connector on the web 
site at http://www.specialtauto.com/elec_main-2.shtml
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/



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