From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 767
Date: Friday, November 02, 2001 10:12 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. November 2nd Report on the Sunstar model...
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. Cleaning Stainless.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

3. Re: unusual speedo failure
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

5. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

6. Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: My FIRST proper questions!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: My FIRST proper questions!
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

10. Re: My FIRST proper questions!
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Re: DMC Engine Weight?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

12. Re: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

13. T-panel questions
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: My FIRST proper questions!
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

15. [ETDOC] Gatlinburg Gathering...Map
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: [ETDOC] Event approaching for Gatlinburg (new directions)
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

17. Interesting Car For Sale
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

18. Re: Brake Lights (again)
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

19. passenger side door - misalignment?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 09:05:14 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: November 2nd Report on the Sunstar model...

Just returned from the SEMA show in Las Vegas where Stephen and I met
personally with the Managing Director of Sunstar and got the latest on the
model. They arrived in the states Thursday, November 1, and he would ship to
us for arrival early next week. Which means that all the 700+ orders we
currently have will ship sometime next week, as we have the shipping labels
and boxes ready to go.

Sherman also told us that the initial run of the 'stock' DeLorean model was
only going to be 15,000 units. He expected that they would make more in the
future, but would not speculate on when that might be.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com 




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 15:07:14 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Cleaning Stainless.

Ever since I've brought my car home, the stainless has steadily 
turned gray. The water here is very hard, and naturaly has a high 
amount of minerals in it. I've tried to remove the minerals from the 
stainless with white vinegar, but with no luck.

Any ideas? I want to get the finish as shiny as possible, but that 
gray tint seems to always come thru.

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 15:23:23 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: unusual speedo failure

From: <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
> Had the same exact problem on my car. Dust cap had lost grip, and
> wasn't turning the speedo cable.
>
> Easy no hasle fix: Buy a new cap. It's cheap, and simply snaps right
> on. No worrying about gluing, or fabricating anything.

I tried a different dust cap from a parts car I picked up recently, and it
fit the same way -- too loose.  This cap had been sitting out in the weather
for a few years.  The sun bleached it some, but it isn't otherwise damaged.
Maybe these two caps have shrunk with age (not likely) or they are dependent
on having the angle drive cable being long enough to spring them against the
wheel's rim for friction.  Not withstanding, my original cap is now a bit
worn from driving about 12 miles with it slipping.

From: "Jim Strickland" <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
> speaking of speedometers, I'm been left wondering about the lower speedo
> cable... It just seems too long.. I got the 'short' one that was
> reccommedned by DMC houston, but I'm still confused about where to put
> it..  It's twisted into almost a complete circle to take up the slack in
> length.. Is this how its supposed to be?

It sounds to me like maybe you have the older version long cable.  How long
is your new one?  My original cable (sheath) was 90cm long.  I got the
shorter version from another car and a reproduction from PJ Grady.  Both are
65.5cm long.  The original (longer one) was tie-wrapped to a hose (the
vacuum line to the power assist or vapor recovery line, I think) running
along the frame.  The shorter cable is more of a direct run but should be
way too short to have enough slack to even begin to make a loop.  Also, for
the shorter cable there is supposed to be a wire loop bracket that bolts to
the brake caliper.  This is supposed to take strain off of the cable where
it meets the angle drive and stop the cable from flopping around.  I hear
that the original ones almost always break off, so see if you still have one
on your car.  The longer cable used a plastic clip instead of a wire loop.
I hear this wasn't very reliable because it would allow the cable to bend
too sharply near the angle drive which strains the gears.  If you value your
angle drive, the shorter cable is much better because it is easier to turn.
The longer cable is more apt to bind/whip around which causes the
speedometer to give a bouncing reading.

From: <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
> Walt and group. What if I had a metal cap made with extra beef / metal
where
> the cable installs. I have a machine shop that loves specials.

John, you think just like I do!  -- make a new part from scratch no matter
how much it costs or how long it takes.  I always love an engineering
challenge.  Personally, I am waiting for DMC Houston to come out with their
new electronic angle drive/speedo replacement.  I'm really excited about it.
It will be interesting to see how they work the bugs out.  Either they need
to make their electronic angle drive with the cable too long or put tape on
the dust shield.

I am suspicious that if anyone has a dust shield fit tightly without the
wheel on the car then they have enough rust in the hub to make friction.  I
scraped all the rust out of mine, so bingo -- loose dust shield.  What
baffles me is how the thing suddenly decided to loosen up after putting over
1000 miles on the car.  Speaking of rust, I highly recommend to everyone to
smear some thick wheel bearing grease on the inside of their rims before
putting the wheels back on the car.  Having unpainted dissimilar metals
(aluminum rim w/ steel hub) touching like that with room for water to get
between is recipe for corrosion problems.  I have had trouble getting my
front wheels off the car before for this reason.  I would feel pretty stupid
having to change a flat tire on the side of the road and not be able to get
the
old wheel off.  You can only kick a wheel so hard without knocking the car
off the jack -- especially if you are on soft ground.

Now get ready to laugh your ass off.  I found an unlikely aftermarket
replacement dust shield.  This is a 62mm lens cap off of my camera.  It is
spring loaded, so it always has a friction fit.  The only thing it needs is
a square hole cut in the center.  Some caps have springs in the very center,
so it would be okay to make the hole 2 or 3mm off center.  And lens caps can
cost less than NOS dust shields.  Drawbacks -- the springs might rust, and
the cap is a bit thin.  Vibration might allow it to pop off.  But a sleeve
with a set screw on the end of the cable poking out would hold it on just
fine.


Walt    Tampa, FL






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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 14:55:48 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains

I think your numbers are only applicable if you're trying to update the
PRV.  Where's Darryl Tinnerstet?  He has over 300 HP, and I'm sure he
spent a lot less than $13K.  And the guy with the 4.3L Vortec I'm sure is
under $80/Hp.   This brings us back to the price/performance index.  Time
to check the archives...

1537



On Thu, 1 Nov 2001 10:55:25 -0500 "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
writes:
> Too bad cost for performance is not linear!
> 
> In my investigations for performance improvements to the PRV, the 
> price
> starts to jump when you get around the 200-225HP area.  Much more 
> than
> $80 per Horse.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:wingd2_at_dml_aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 12:46 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
> <SNIP>
> 
> 
> 
>   Now lets see, that's a 20 HP increase over stock for $1600, or 
> about
> $80 
> per HP. The DMC Houston Hi-Po engine gives about a 70 HP increase 
> over 
> stock.....at $80 per HP that equals $5600, which is real close to 
> the
> actual 
> cost to have this work performed.
>    Maybe we've just established another Delorean "standard" or 
> "average"
> cost 
> factor of $80 per HP for performance gains ???  How fa$t do you want 
> to
> go ?
> 
>     Marty
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 02:16:46 -0000
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?

There were 2 different engines in the Eagle Premier. The Z7X-711 and 
the Z7X-715. The injectors I'm using are the same ones that are in in 
the Z7X-715. Using the Eagle intake would require a rework on the 
throttle cable and pully, and the use of the Eagle throttle body 
intake plumbing/air filter etc...at the minimum. Also the injector 
ports may be located in the intake manifold on the Eagle. In which 
case the CIS ports in the Delorean, which are located in the heads 
themselves would have to be plugged. It would be nice to find out if 
the intake itself would bolt up. Wouldn't that be nice...
Jim

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Does anyone know if it would be possible to use the fuel rails 
> w/injectors from an Eagle Priemier engine, or would they interfere 
> with the DeLorean's intake manifold?  And if thats the case, would 
it 
> be possible to use the intake manifold from the Priemer engine as 
it 
> appears to be a bit more refinded than the DeLorean's?
> 
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 22:25:40 EST
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?

In a message dated 11/1/01 6:19:30 PM Central Standard Time, ultra_at_dml_isd.net 
writes:
> Does anyone know if it would be possible to use the fuel rails 
> w/injectors from an Eagle Premier engine, or would they interfere 
> with the DeLorean's intake manifold?  And if that's the case, would it 
> be possible to use the intake manifold from the Primer engine as it 
> appears to be a bit more refined than the DeLorean's?
> 

    Jim, 

    Altho these two engines are both PRV's and they appear to look very 
similar, that's about were things stop being alike. The heads and intake 
system on the two engines are completely different. If you ever noticed, the 
fuel injectors and ports for the "D" engine are located in the head, while 
the injectors and ports on the "E" engine are located in the intake. The 
location and spacing of the intake ports and even the spark plug holes are 
different between the "D" and "E" heads. An "E" intake will not bolt onto a 
set of "D" heads and vis versa. Been there, tried that :-(

   Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 01:26:17 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?

This may sound too obvious, but instead of using fuel rails, couldn't you
use double banjo nuts to daisy-chain flexible hoses instead?  Sure, that
wouldn't look as elegant, but it would be very functional.  I would be
worried that a custom-made fuel rail would need very critical tolerances or
else it would hold the injectors in crooked.  Maybe parts from the Eagle
Premier is the answer.  But then jwit6 did it with brass water pipes!

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 19:27:45 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: My FIRST proper questions!

In a message dated 11/1/01 6:21:36 PM Central Standard Time, 
webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:


> We then started it again but with a large amount of difficulty (loads of 
> cranking and had to
> jump the battery which was rapidly getting flat). And I sat for a good 5 
> minutes keeping the
> revs at 1500. It still wouldn't idle and stalled.
> 
> ...and that was it. We've not been able to get it going since. We've let it 
> go cold and tried
> 

I had a similar problem on my car when i rebuilt some of the fuel injection 
this spring, where it seemed like the car WANTED to run upon cranking, but 
then it would immediately die, or it would run as long as you kept hitting 
the gas, but then it would quit as soon as you let off it.

the problem was the brass pipe that goes from the idle speed motor to the 
driver's side of the lower air meter housing.  it wasn't in properly and gave 
me a massive vacuum leak.  i had to put it in again and i sealed it with some 
epoxy to make double sure it was tight.  after some tweaking of the fuel/air 
mixture, it ran again!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 19:46:04 -0500
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: My FIRST proper questions!

  
Martin;

I had a very similar problem when I got mine up and running (it had sat for 10 years or so).  It turned out to be the control pressure regulator (sits on the drivers side of the engine, bolted to the side.  Has fuel lines running to it, and a rubber vent hose hanging off the side)  If I remember what Rob Grady told me about it, this is a part of the fuel system that is usually overlooked when cleaning out the systems, and can have just as much corrosion in it as any other part.  On another note, when I had to repeatedly do restarts on my car, and killed my battery as you had, I encountered another problem; I burnt out the fuse for the fuel pump, it melted right through the holder.  Make sure you watch for any fuse over heats.  Hope this helps!!

Scott
16738


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 23:42:22 EST
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: My FIRST proper questions!

Just wondering, what is the condition of your fuel accumulator and 
distributor. When I first got my car it was in the same shape as what you 
have described, and bad gas in the lines had caused the distributor to seize 
up. You might want to run through that whole area if you haven't done so 
already.

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 19:13:51 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Engine Weight?

The engine weights about 560 lbs. in full dress (all accessories.)

knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com wrote:

> I don't have the precise weight, but I can give some indication. I
> have a spare DMC engine on a stand in my shop and the basic block (no
> heads, no intake manifold, no exhaust, no alternator, no A/C compressor) is light enough that I lift it myself. Those that have met me know that I'm a 90-
> pound weakling.
>
>            Knut
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., pbmain_at_dml_m... wrote:
> > Does anyone know the approximate weight of the DMC Engine (with all
> > the main stuff attached?) I need to pick up an engine stand and
> > wasn't sure how beefy of a stand, or if i need to look for
> something
> > particular...
> >
> > Thanks
> > Pete
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 20:43:19 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains

In a message dated 11/1/01 10:50:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, wingd2_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:

<< Now lets see, that's a 20 HP increase over stock for $1600, or about $80 
 per HP. The DMC Houston Hi-Po engine gives about a 70 HP increase over 
 stock.....at $80 per HP that equals $5600, which is real close to the actual 
 cost to have this work performed. >>

I'm concerned here that you may be trying to hold me to a guaranteed HP gain 
when you go to EFI. I know it's commonly accepted knowledge from those who 
know K, L and J Jetronic systems that CIS (K) robs >10% of available HP. I've 
yet to get my daily driver on a dyno and I've never driven a CIS DMC-12 so 
like I said before, I can't give you my impressions on performance gains 
under these circumstances. But if you only got 10% you'd be at 143, and 15% 
which is probably closer to the truth would put you at 149.5 HP. This is new 
territory and we'll all be learning together. Sound fair?
Jim



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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 19:37:31 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: T-panel questions

Hey guys,

i have had a condition where my T-panel has been interfering with the 
passenger side door.  when you open the door, it rubs the T-panel and if you 
watch closely, you can see it flexing and getting pushed to the driver's 
side.  now that my car is in storage i have begun to try to fix it.  i tried 
to just loosen the tabs and 6 screws that hold it down, because i wanted to 
try to move the whole thing to the driver's side a little bit.  well it seems 
like my panel is already as far over the driver's side as it will go!  then i 
noticed that my T panel seems to be higher in the back then kind of slopes 
down towards the front.  it is not perfectly in line with the doors.  is that 
how it should be?

anyway, then i removed the whole T-panel.  i'm not sure if it is how it 
should be.  there is a big rubber pad glued to the underside of the T-panel 
and there is a bunch of black rubbery gook on the roof where the rubber pad 
touches the roof.  

is the roof made out of fiberglass?  it seems like under a thin layer of 
paint i can see some rust.  

also there is a rectangular patch of yellowish clear glue about 2/3 of the 
way from the windshield to the rear.  i can't tell what it is for, it looks 
almost like a printed circuit board is under it, like the glue is a 
protective layer over it.  it looks like there is something green and copper 
under there, but i didn't try to pry at it.

can anyone help me out here?  i'm not sure what the problem is except maybe 
the T panel isn't flush with the roof and it's kind of flexing upward, 
hitting the door.

if the panel needs to be glued back to the roof, how do i do that? must i 
prep the roof or anything?  what kind of glue do i use?

any info is very much appreciated!!!!!!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 02:36:35 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: My FIRST proper questions!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi Guys
> 
> Well, tonight I started my DeLorean for the first time (it has sat 
for 4 years). ...
> 
> On another note, the car's in wonderful condition mechanically - 
but there's one funny thing.
> On the very front end tip of the gearbox (manual) there's a cap the 
size of a bottle top
> which is loose but won't come out. It looks as if someone's tried 
to bond it back in using JB
> Weld or similar - can anyone tell me what this thing is and what 
(if anything) we need to do
> about it?
Martin

Uh Oh. There is not supposed to be anything there. If it's where I 
think it is, it means that one of the nuts holding 5th gear in place 
has backed off and drilled itself through the housing. My guess is 
that someone fixed it and patched the hole, and that's what you see.

If fixed properly, no harm done. If fixed wrong you'll get a fluid 
leak. If they just filled the hole and didn't fix the problem, you'll 
probably lose 5th gear.

Take that end cover off the transmission and take a look. I believe 
that you can do this with the trans in the car but it's a lot easier 
with it out.

Dave





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 19:02:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: [ETDOC] Gatlinburg Gathering...Map

Well..just a short while before the gathering in
Gatlinburg, TN.  I have seen several responses but if
anyone does need assistance, please call me.


If anyone would like to view  a map of the driving tour and
a lay out of the general area click on the link below:

http://www.etdoc.com/meetings/110401/map.gif

Thanks for your time-

Aaron Posey

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com



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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 01:09:25 EST
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: [ETDOC] Event approaching for Gatlinburg (new directions)

For those of you planning to attend the ETDOC meet in Gatlinburg, I wanted to 
elaborate on Aaron's driving directions:

Take the 407 exit off of I-40 and this is Highway 66 towards Gatlinburg.

Follow the road through Seveirville and Pigeon Forge to Gatlinburg, at this 
point the road is referred to as the parkway. It is about 20 miles from the 
interstate to Gatlinburg.

Once you enter the Gatlinburg city limits, marked by a welcome sign, remain 
on this main road, the road will split in three directions, and as Aaron 
said, take the middle route. 

Still remaining on the parkway, the next step is to take a left onto Airport 
Rd. 

Follow this road for approximately 2 miles and the entrance to the Park Vista 
Hotel is on the left, it is a very steep entryway.

If anyone gets lost, just ask at anyplace in Gatlinburg how to find the Park 
Vista, it is a landmark and the locals are quite friendly.

Hope to see some DMLers there,

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 03:05:16 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Interesting Car For Sale

I mention these here from time to time as they come in to the ad page 
at www.dmcnews.com. I just put up an ad for a car with 76 original 
miles asking for $30,000. 

Another oh-by-the-way - looking at all the cars on the list for sale, 
the average asking price is $17,500 with the median price about the 
same. 

Dave Swingle <---ad guy

http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html






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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 20:50:52 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Brake Lights (again)

The green wire at the stop light switch under the dash should have 12V on it 
all the time, independent of the ign switch position. There should also be 
12V available at the fuse box for fuse #4 all the time. Fuse 4 gets 
unswitched 12V from the white wire, then crosses the fuse and should go right 
to the switch. If you've got 12V at the fuse, but nothing at the switch, it's 
a connector problem bettween the fuse box and the switch. You can check by 
putting 12V on the switch and pressing the pedal. You should have brake 
lights.
Jim 



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 00:37:49 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: passenger side door - misalignment?

Hey all,

this evening while trying to determine the cause of my problems in my 
previous email ("T-panel"), i checked a couple of things:

1.  the metal box that the door hinges go into doesn't seem to be unglued 
from the fiberglass.  it doesn't move at all when i open the doors, so that 
is not the problem.

2.  the passenger side door seems to be raised up a couple of millimeters 
higher than the rest of the car, from all sides.  it is higher than the rear 
quarter panel on top and the windshield trim piece by a couple of 
millimeters, and it seems to not be flush with the front and rear quarters by 
about one millimeter perhaps, maybe two. in contrast, the driver's side door 
is an example in perfection.  it is totally flush from all sides, it opens 
fully every time in every temperature, and the latches close at exactly the 
same time every time.  

is there a way to correct this condition, could it be the reason why the 
passenger door tends to rub against my T-panel?  i have the T-panel removed 
right now and i would like to correct whatever needs correcting while i have 
it out and the car is in winter storage.

Thanks as always,
Andy



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