From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 773
Date: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 7:09 AM

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

3. ETDOC Gatlinburg Meet- THANKS!
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Warm up regulator electrical supply
From: "John" <john_geuley_at_dml_hp.com>

6. RE: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. Re: Insurance
From: RFLRKV_at_dml_cs.com

8. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

9. My insurance
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

10. Re: Delorean Book
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com

11. RE: Prototype's dash - pictures and descriptions
From: "Michael Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

12. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

13. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

14. #1458 update (long)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: mark_at_dml_wizwarecomputers.com

16. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

17. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

18. whiny engine
From: aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com

19. temp gauge not responding
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

20. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

22. Re: temp gauge not responding
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 04:17:30 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

This is a very interesting story. It reminds me of the guy who every 
weekend tightened up every bolt on his motorcycle. Eventualty bolts 
started breaking off. You must not constantly retorque bolts. I don't 
think that is what is happening here though. The Delorean venders have 
known for a long time about the "crappy" OEM trailing arm bolts and 
all now offer a higher tensile strength bolt with either double nuts 
or elastic stop-nuts. The problem as I see it is getting the owners of 
the Deloreans aware of the potential for serious trouble and to check 
or if in doubt just replacing the "crappy" bolts. They are relatively 
cheap as compared to the alternative! Also when getting an alignement 
many shops don't have the proper washers (shims) so the ones they put 
in are too small or too soft so they bend and crush. Fortunatly this 
is one area of weak design that is easy to upgrade. In fact I am 
suprised that none of the US government agencies like DOT or NHSTA 
never did a recall on this as they did on the front suspension! 
Failure of this bolt has caused some cars to lose control as told in 
this list, fortunatly it seems to happen at low speeds but I don't see 
why it couldn't happen at highway speeds.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Hello List - 
> I've got some information relating to trailing arm bolts that I 
think 
> would be of interest



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 23:36:39 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

In a message dated 11/05/2001 10:48:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com writes:

<< After I explained where the bolt was 
 installed, and what it did, the lab technician asked me a very simple 
 question ... "Why did they use such a crappy bolt for this critical 
 function?"  Good question.   >>


    The chassis is really disappointing. Especially when compounded with rust 
issues, frame distortion, epoxy problems, and the inauspicious trailing arm 
bolts.
    The December 1981 Motor Trend Magazine article has a separate analysis of 
the chassis technical limitations and impressions of the DeLorean steel 
backbone.
    The poor engine placement in the backbone, flexing of a brittle chassis, 
old age, stress from cornering, bumps in the roadways, heat from exhaust, the 
engine weight is far too much load & stress for the rear suspension, 
especially the radius arm bolts.
    

    "...because the engine is too wide to fit into the aft V, it is mounted 
behind the axle, with the transmission positioned ahead of the axle. The 
engine location gives the car its most undesirable characteristics: a high 
rear-bias weight distribution (35/65), and a very high polar moment of 
inertia."

    The DMC engineer's idea was to incorporate larger tires in the rear than 
the front to help stabilize the car.

    "One other engineering problem with the DeLorean is the rear axle 
locating system. The Trailing links angle toward the centerline of the 
chassis and allow the wheels to change toe-in (or toe-out) as a function of 
body roll. This causes the rear wheels to steer their end of the car during 
the transition from straight line to cornering, a handling trait that is 
something less than endearing."

    So, those tiny little radius arm bolts actually serve a multitude of 
functions. One tiny hairline crack in one of those bolts, along with the 
right bump in the road and it's time to call your insurance agent.




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 21:01:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: ETDOC Gatlinburg Meet- THANKS!

Hey yo!

  I appreciate all the comments about the weekend meet.  I
just wanted to get a few owners together for a good time. 
It is amazing when you get a few owners together for a
short while. It always ends up being a big party when we
get together...what a blast!   Thanks everyone for coming!

 A special thanks goes out to the Park Vista...I was
surprised by their generosity. They provided the group with
almost $400 worth of passes to the aquarium, car museum,
and breakfast--  I had no idea they were going to to that!!
 Not only that, they gave us a group rate- I noticed a
couple in front of me checking in paying $169 for the same
room we got for $89.

  As it has been told to the list...we are already working
on the next meet. It is going to be a basic repeat of the
first one..except that I am thinking of starting us off in
Gatlinburg again and using the Park Vista hotel again- and
making it occur sometime in March (first or second
weekend).

  When more information becomes available, you can rest
assured it will be posted to the list.  I hope to have a
bunch of people come test their DeLoreans abilities on 'The
Dragon'- it is quite a road! It is THE curviest road in
America..318 curves in 11 miles. The speed limit on the
road is 40MPH...and I think it is almost impossible to
achieve it. I took a Porsche 911 convertible on it a week
ago and didn't even hit the speed limit!

I may plan something before that..but am not sure.

Check the (still under construction) webpage for updated
details.

Thanks again!

Aaron Posey
ETDOC
cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com

www.etdoc.com




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:37:52 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

Toby and group, I have been looking into the trailing arm bolts due to the 
request of several people and i'm glad to see someone with the knowledge and 
equiptment to test things out.  In my research I have found that even though 
18-8 stainless is good, I decided to use a 316 Stainless due to the added 
nickel and molybdenum to the metal for corrosion and strength. What do you 
think. The shifting arm pivot bolt I sell on the web is a 12.9, alloy steel 
vs the Delorean original at 8.8 .The trailing arm bolt if I'm correct is 
M12x19.
John hervey
  http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 12:41:16 -0000
From: "John" <john_geuley_at_dml_hp.com>
Subject: Warm up regulator electrical supply

Hi,

  I have checked out my warm up regulator and found that the 
  inside is burnt out !!

  Before I place a new one on the car I would like to check the 
  power input to this to make sure everything is correct as these
  are not cheap items...

  Does anyone have instructions on how to do this ??

John G

ENGLAND.




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 07:11:19 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?

I tapped the hole and then threaded a set screw and a jam nut with a little
silicon on it.  Works just fine.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

Subject: Re: [DML] DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this
system?

QUESTION:
My next related issue involves the plug that covers up the access hole for
the aforementioned 3mm Allen wrench is missing.
---
Does anyone know what this plug looks like?
Judging from the hole it seems to go down straight (no threads) for a bit
and is then threaded.



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:46:03 EST
From: RFLRKV_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Insurance

   I personally have had no problem getting minimal coverage through MERCURY. 
I live in California. Full coverage is also readily available.    -Richard



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:56:45 -0600
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

Toby,


Could you also give us some details such as mileage and conditions these
cars were in?   I've wondered for awhile now how mileage affects the
trailing arm bolts.  What I mean by this is, would you be more likely to
have this problem on a DeLorean that gets used everyday and has high mileage
or would it be more of a problem on a DeLorean that has been sitting up for
quite some time.  I have over 100,000 miles on my DeLorean and the trailing
arm bolts *look* fine.  Now, common sense would say the one that has more
miles is probably prone to failure but I know alot of high mileage D's that
still have the original TAB on them w/o any signs of fatigue or failure. (to
the naked eye that is)


Thanks,


Duke

> I will post a second entry tomorrow with details about what I did to
> solve this problem for myself.  I will be asking for an idea of the
> level of interest in making my solution available to the rest of the
> DeLorean fleet.  Please consider what I have shared here, and be ready
> to give me some feedback when I share my solution with you.  'Til
> then...





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:49:41 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: My insurance

I don't think I've heard anyone mention this company... I have Esurance
(http://www.esurance.com). They are underwritten by the Argonaut Insurance
Co. If you go to their website and get an online quote, DeLorean is one of
the cars that you can select (which is rare).



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:12:06 EST
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Delorean Book

The book is called DeLorean: The Man and the Machine.  I can't remember the 
authors.  It is pretty good but like most books is very critical of JZD and 
the car.

Brian
VIN 1597



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 22:57:50 -0500
From: "Michael Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: Prototype's dash - pictures and descriptions

I know that there are some pictures of the prototype, including the dash in
the "Stainless Steel Illusion" book.  The also have some pictures of gauge
possibilities that they were considering putting in the cars. If you can get
your hands on the book, check out pages 36 and 64.

Also, if you e-mail me privately, I may be able to help you out a bit more.

MICHAEL C. BABB
MICHAEL_at_dml_BABBTECHNOLOGY.COM
Michael at babbtechnology.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Sftrang [mailto:smj_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Prototype's dash - pictures and descriptions

Hello, I'm looking for some pictures and descriptions
of the prototype's gauges and idiot lamps.




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 06:03:19 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid

If you wnat to strip down the entire chassis bring it to a 
sandblaster. The only drawback is that in certain areas (channel 
areas) they won't be able to remove the old epoxy....but then again 
it's better to leave it anyway since you won't be ablke to get to it 
as good when you fo to paint/powder coat it. JC Whitney sells some 
special sprayers and Rust Stopping formula just for getting into 
tight spots like the channel areas. The sprayer has different nozels 
to choose from. If you just want to repair the dmaged area simply 
scrape off all the loose epoxy of the chassis. Scrape around it 
until you get to good epoxy (wasn't damaged and still bonding to the 
steel). If you need to remove any remaining epoxy that just won't 
come off then go to home depot and get yourself a can of Kleen 
Strip, this stuff will attack the epoxy and loosen it right up. Once 
your down to bare steel, use POR-15 to paint it. This stuff is 
equivelent to Powder coating. It is not impervious to brake 
fluid....nothing is unless you galvanize. Before painting on the POR-
15 they maje a special metal "prep" formula. It's called "Metal 
Ready". This will neutrilize any rust that's present and also etch 
any smooth surface metal (POR-15 needs a toothy surface to bond too).

Steve




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 18:38:40 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid

Have you every really tried this? I tried to sandblast mine and it 
would barely dent the sound epoxy. It would of course remove the 
loose stuff, but so will a paint scraper. The sand just bounced off 
the epoxy that was solid. It would eventually (measured in minutes 
per square centimeter) work its way thru, but I could not imagine 
stripping a whole frame this way. The only way (and I tried a LOT) to 
get otherwise sound epoxy off the frame fast was a propane torch. And 
of course this has other issues and is not necessarily recommended. 

This is only necessary if you are doing a complete restoration, there 
is no reason to remove good epoxy otherwise. Just scrape back to the 
good parts and repaint with POR15. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
> If you wnat to strip down the entire chassis bring it to a 
> sandblaster. 




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 21:31:02 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: #1458 update (long)

Hi All

Well, here's what's been happenning since #1458 and #2727 arrived. I've
been working hard trying to get #1458 driving in time for the NEC show
this weekend. Unfortunately it was not to be and if you read my previous
message, and Dave Swingle's reply, you'll know why.

First off, We finally got to the point of turning the key to start her
up for the first time in an estimated 4 years last thursday evening.
With a new fuel tank, new fuel pump, pump boot, feeder hoses, pickup
filter, fuel filter, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs plus
approximately 9 litres of petrol and two bottles of injector cleaner, I
jumped in and turned the key....

After cranking for a while (obviously all the lines were full of air)
she spluttered to life. She stalled every time I took my foot off the
accelerator, so after three attempts, Jason (the mechanic) just told me
to hold my foot there and keep her at between 2000-3000 rpm. She was
really rough and this is what came out the back...

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02268.jpg

We weren't too worried given the high concentration of injector cleaner
and oil Jason had run down the cylinders previously, but unfortunately
once warm, she stalled and refused to start again (lets jump forward a
day and point out this WASN'T the accumulator)

We left her until the following day when we discovered she wouldn't
start AT ALL. Having read up on the "hot start" quick fix, we tried
that, and she fired up and would idle, but would stall with any
throttle.

We tried EVERYTHING... Having #2727 sitting behind let me play with
swapping bits - I tried the CPR, the Cold Start valve, the frequency
valve... they all worked fine.

Eventually, I rang PJ Grady and was told to check the plunger in the
distributor. I also rang the Renault dealer down the road and pretended
I had a Renault 25, same suggestion (after a lot of ideas that weren't
relevant to the DeLorean). Sure enough it was stuck fast at full
throttle. We freed it up and reassembled everything.

Playing with all these fuel hoses loosened them up a bit and I had no
fewer than three seperate leaks, but the engine started and ran
beautifully!

Now back to the problem I mentioned a few days ago. It looks like my 5th
gear nut HAS come loose and drilled its way through the case. I have no
5th gear and 4th is only just meshing (it grinds when you throttle
back).

Interestingly, I've rung around a few Renault parts places and ALL were
familiar with this problem, though it IS rare, it's a known problem.

Jason's not a gearbox man, but he's pulling off that back cover to see
if it's a simple fix, if not, the box is off to a specialist...

On a side note, the 2-mile test run we did was an experience! Driving my
D for the first time - scaring Jason by driving too near the centre of
the road (first LHD car I've ever driven), having people flash me coming
the other way (never see a D on the roads here!)... I'm looking forward
to having her running properly!

Brakes are really spongy too - a couple more hoses getting changed.

Also if anyone is interested, I picked up an EXACT replacement rear-view
mirror from a scrapyard for 5. I'm also going to perform Hank's Saab
mirror-switch conversion having effectively destroyed mine getting the
damn thing out. My window switches weren't working, but a squirt of
Servisol10 in each one fixed them perfectly. My drivers window
continually falls off its track at the front - looking at that at some
point in the future. Replaced the broken door handle on the drivers door
with one of DMC Houston's remanufactured units, and discovered my
drivers side door lock is completely knackered - won't turn at all.
Still, at least the central locking module is easy to fix - I've found
some nice mini 10A relays from Maplin for 1.49 each - should replace
the stock ones nicely.

All the best

Martin
#1458
www.delorean.co.uk




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 21:52:18 -0000
From: mark_at_dml_wizwarecomputers.com
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

I have just over 21,000 miles on #10901. I've had it a couple months. 
I noticed a clunk in the rear and knew I should check the TA bolts. 
Sure enough, just by looking at the rear right bolt, I could see that 
the shims weren't lined up anymore, and I could move them with a 
screw driver. It was also apparent from looking at the nut that there 
was a lot less threads showing on the right than on the left. The 
left looked still tight. I turned the bolt head and watched as my 
trailing arm moved up and down due to the bend in the bolt. I 
tightened up the bolt to spec, and ordered replacements right away. I 
also ordered the bushings. (all from PJ Grady...thanks guys!)

As soon as I got my parts, I pulled out the old bolt and noticed that 
it DEFINITELY bent. I did have to use a hammer to get it out. The new 
bolt went it great and had a lock-nut with it too. I put on the 
lowering springs from PJ Grady (thanks again guys!) and took the car 
to get it aligned.

The alignment went great. The front toe-in was a tiny bit off, but 
everything else was perfectly in spec. I will replace the other TA 
bolt even though it was still tight just to be on the safe side.

My suspension feels MUCH better and almost all rear clunking is gone. 
ALMOST...hmmm....axles? I need to do some further investigation...

Moral of the story....ALWAYS CHECK YOU TA BOLTS! And you may as well 
just replace them with the new stuff regardless and make sure you get 
lock-nuts. It's VERY CHEAP INSURANCE considering how important those 
little bolts are! Your life is worth a few bucks and 30 minutes of 
your time.

Mark
#10901 (getting better and better by the day)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Toby,
> 
> 
> Could you also give us some details such as mileage and conditions 
these
> cars were in?   I've wondered for awhile now how mileage affects the
> trailing arm bolts.  What I mean by this is, would you be more 
likely to
> have this 



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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 03:34:35 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid

YUP! i had my entire chassis sandblasted. The place that did it is 
right near Rob Grady's shop (that's where Rob sends his parts that 
he needs blasted). They did an EXCELLENT job. They had removed ALL 
the epoxy. If you like i can post pictures of my chassis blasted 
down. When i picked it up the guy said it was a bitch to remove but 
were able to do it with I believe steel shot to remove the epoxy. Of 
course my chassis was off the car and stripped of all parts. i am 
sure you can spot blast with the same material they used. I had my 
entire chassis done besause the entire front end had virtually no 
epoxy (minimal rust surprisingly!) the rear of the chasiss the epoxy 
was starting to flake and along the sides started to rust.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Have you every really tried this? I tried to sandblast mine and it 
> would barely dent the sound epoxy. It would of course remove the 
> loose stuff, but so will a paint scraper. The sand just bounced 
off 
> the epoxy that was solid. 



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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 03:51:42 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid

That would explain it. I was using silica sand, sounds like they used 
something much more aggressive. Thanks!

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
> YUP! i had my entire chassis sandblasted. The place that did it is 
> right near Rob Grady's shop (that's where Rob sends his parts that 
> he needs blasted). They did an EXCELLENT job. They had removed ALL 
> the epoxy. If you like i can post pictures of my chassis blasted 
> down. When i picked it up the guy said it was a bitch to remove but 
> were able to do it with I believe steel shot to remove the epoxy. 




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 03:57:49 -0000
From: aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: whiny engine

I've noticed over the past couple months that my engine has had a
slight grinding whine to it.  I didn't know if it had always been that
way and I had just never noticed it before.  I believe it's getting
louder.

The pitch of the whine depends on the RPM's of the engine, and it gets
higher as the RPM's go up.  It's hardly noticeable while I'm driving
on the road, but when I put the clutch pedal to the floor to slow
down, it's suddenly very noticeable as the engine revs down.
Also, the transmission will squeak occasionally while I'm accelerating
in 2nd or 3rd gear.  Does this mean some clutch replacement parts are
in order?

I've been at work about 12 hours a day lately, so I haven't had time
to look at it.  I thought I might throw the problem out there for
suggestions before diving into it myself.Aaron
#1506





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:05:21 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: temp gauge not responding

My temp gauge suddenly died this afternoon. It points straight down and
doesn't quiver.
All my other gauges and electrical instruments seem OK.

The green wire is securely nutted to the sensor post in the right front
cylinder head. That is the right wire and sensor, right?

So, I went to measure with my meter at the gauge. It has three posts with
electrical connection-- according to Zilladude's nice diagram (y'all better
get it)-- the bottom post is ground, speedo side post is sensor, and door
side post is positive voltage. I clip three little alligator test leads to
those so that I can switch my meter around easily. :)
So I should see 12v between the door-side and the bottom post, which I do.
What should I see between the sensor and the ground? I see a quickly
fluctuating number about 150 millivolts, even with key off. Not totally sure
that is something I could measure with voltmeter, though.

Suggestions?

Kevin
#4687
Houston
---------
I read this somewhere:
"most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident, most
likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make accidents."




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 23:16:14 -0500
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

  
When I first got my DMC, and the fuel system was being cleaned out, they took it out for a test and the passenger TA bolt snapped in half.  They  limped the car back and found a suitable replacement.  A year later, I was driving along and with no warning, the same bolt broke.  Anyone who has never had this happen, trust me, check them to see how they look.  It is not a pleasant experience.  Along with the sudden misalignment, the rear wheel shifting and trying to keep it in the road, the quick scare is nothing fun.  I replaced it with a new PJ Grady bolt.  ASAP I'm going to have the other one switched as well.


Scott


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 04:56:46 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Concerns

Funny you should mention this. Take a look at:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/rollover.html

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:

> Failure of this bolt has caused some cars to lose control as told 
in 
> this list, fortunatly it seems to happen at low speeds but I don't 
see 
> why it couldn't happen at highway speeds.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 04:59:02 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: temp gauge not responding

This is going to sound strange, but believe me it works. I hate to do it in public.

1 - Start the car

2 - Slap the side of the binnacle next to the guage. Hard. Maybe a 
couple of times. This will unstick the needle.

Not an unusual problem. I've been chasing this one for years, the only
reasonable solution I picked up was to put a roll pin thru the face 
at the bottom of the guage range to stop the needle. I got this 
suggestion from one of the major suppliers. I haven't done it yet though.

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> My temp gauge suddenly died this afternoon. It points straight down 
and
> doesn't quiver.




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