From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 775
Date: Thursday, November 08, 2001 4:20 AM

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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: trailing arm bolt removal
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. Re: Re: New Magazine
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

3. RE: Re: whiny engine
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>

4. Re: Re: temp gauge not responding
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

5. What other cars used the PRV-V6
From: jugeauj_at_dml_gdls.com

6. Re: Re: DeLorean mentioned in Magazine
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 22:00:04 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: trailing arm bolt removal

Joe - During the tech sessions that I mentioned in my previous post, 
we were at a members' home with a mechanics pit in the garage.  The 
cars were sitting over the pit for the removal.  A jack was placed at 
the side being worked on, using the underbody jacking point, and the 
car is lifted until the tire just left the floor.  This allowed the 
wheel and trailing arm to be manipulated slightly to find the position 
where the bolt becomes unloaded.  It can then be tapped or pulled out. 
At most, you will see a slight shifting of the arm, but there should 
be no sudden movements to be concerned about.  Keep track of washers, 
shims, etc.  The bolts can be inspected or replaced with new bolts, 
placing the washers back into their original positions as the joint is 
reassembled.  As noted in other posts, there is some amount of wear on 
the washers, due to movement of components in the joint (a function of 
the "crappy bolt" bending under load).  I recommend turning the 
washers to provide a fresh surface against the sleeves in the arm and 
bushing.  We found that the bolt will slip back in easier if the car 
is lowered slowly until a small amount of weight is on the wheel.  
This seems to get the holes in both the arm and the rubber bushing to 
line up better.  You snug the nut onto the bolt, lower the car to put 
full weight on the wheel, and then perform the final torque.

As I indicated earlier, I will be posting again with details of what I 
have done for myself and a handful of PNDC cars.  I was delayed last 
night by urgent maintenance requirements on my wife's Explorer.  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Hello Fellow List Members,
> 
> Great discussion on trailing arm bolts. Is there any precaution 
which should be followed in the removal of these bolts for inspection 
or replacement? Do you simply get under the car and screw these bolts 
out, or do you have to secure the trailing arms or other parts so that 
they don't suddenly spring out position and do damage to person or 
car?
> 
> Many thanks.
> 
> Joe Thome
> 
> VIN 6467 as of 2/12/01 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 17:40:29 EST
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: Re: New Magazine

Folks, from someone who has some publishing experience, you need to lighten up on the new DMC Houston magazine here.  Now I haven't seen it myself, so maybe I shouldn't even be posting this, but what magazine DOESN'T have tons of ads in them?  I think this is especially excusable if, as the original posted noted, the magazine makes it clear that it is a publication of DMC Houston.

Also, isn't the list a far better place to ask and receive answers on tech related questions???  Every magazine needs variety (including ads, as noted above), so I'm sure they will continue to include some technical stuff, but wouldn't JUST technical stuff be as boring as a magazine with JUST ads?  Wouldn't you also like to see articles on DeLorean history, media updates (i.e. "Where is the car now?"), readers personal stories, etc.

So maybe you guys need to lighten up a bit.  If all you want is technical information on ANY topic, then don't buy a *magazine*, which by usual definition are popular publications being introduced for wider audiences. 

Richard
Modesto, CA      



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 17:04:47 -0500
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
Subject: RE: Re: whiny engine


	>when depressing the clutch is a throwout bearing, noise when not 
	>depressing the clutch is transmission. (Generally).
	>David Teitelbaum
	>vin 10757

	I do not have a slight grinding whine, but for the past almost 2
years I hear a slight creak or perhaps best described as flexing metal
sound, it is a sound simmilar to a squeaky hinge.. Anywany i hear this noise
everytime I depress the clutch, it is bearly adiable witht eh engine on, but
when the engine is off it is very obvious.  I had not clutch problems until
a year ago when my slave and master cylinders went out, I changed those, and
no problem until recently my car has not wanted to DOWN shift into second
gear.  I can go first second third, but third second, or actually trying to
get into second going at any apreciable speed is difficult, it will not
grind, but I really have to force it in there.  All other gears shift a
smmoth as silk, and I do still hear that squeky noise when I engage the
clutch, it has not gotten worse, should I be concerned about the noise?  I
have a feeling the second gear problem is relatively benign and I will not
worry bout that till I need a new cluch, but the noise that I have been
hearing, Is that my throwout bearing wearing its life away?
	just curious thanks
	Joe palatinus
	VIN 17167 6808



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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 18:09:33 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Re: temp gauge not responding

I'll keep that in mind.
I gave the binnacle the Fonz trick last night and it work!
Also, my antenna suddenly went up and the radio turned on and started
playing Happy Days.....

I don't know where I've been that I haven't heard of (or had) a stuck needle
before... but now I know.
Thanks for the help, all.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lucas" <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: temp gauge not responding


> Be careful here.
>
> I once used this technique to unstick the needle on my fuel gauge. It
> worked, but it also
> got me the first little crack in my previously pristine binnacle.
>
> --pete lucas
>    vin #06703
>



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:32:25 -0500
From: jugeauj_at_dml_gdls.com
Subject: What other cars used the PRV-V6


Would anyone know if there's a listing somewhere of what other cars used
the PRV-V6?
Where all PRV-V6 created equal?
I know a little about they being used in the Volvo 760 and some 780s albeit
in a lower performance version than in the DMC-12.
Where there any others?

Just curious.
I get a lot of questions and concerns voiced over the misconception that
DeLorean developed his own engine making parts and service knowledge
scarce.

Louis





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:26:39 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean mentioned in Magazine

Whatever.

What's with the giugiaro bashing?  The Delorean HAS ENGINEERING PROBLEMS.
 The door included.  The guides, the lineup with the other panels, the
inherently sagging shocks, and the weak lower strut mount are a few
examples.  

Isn't giugiaro a DESIGNER?  How could he be 'responsible' for the
engineering of the excel, or daewoo or whatever else?

1537


On Tue, 06 Nov 2001 02:13:00 -0000 DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com writes:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "ian" <ian_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > I quote the last sentences ...
> > 
> > " He insisted on the gullwing doors which caused major engineering 
> 
> problems
> > and the car was pretty horrible. It was terrible to drive. Making 
> cars
> > requires huge reserves of capital which he simply didn't have. I 
> really
> > wanted it to be a success."
> <SNIP>




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